Shavestick

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Everything posted by Shavestick

  1. Look for the later 1.33 Petrols. These are better built than the MY2006-2008 So far in 10 years of ownership and 120k miles the only thing needed fixing was the passenger lock that ceased due to heavy handed kid. The car burns some oil between services but no more than a litre per year which is ok for high milage daily use. No under body rust on my example and the only wash she gets underneath is rain and puddles. The headlights on the MY2009+ seems not to develop the plastic fogging affecting previous models. The 1NF-E motor with the six speed manual is fairly strong with 100bhp which is good for such small and short vehicle. Can easily get you out of trouble and not too dull when cornering. I personally never had a more trouble free motor before so buy with confidence.
  2. My 2010 1.8 which I acquired in July 2019 have a full main dealer history. I asked the nice lady at the service counter to print me the service record and not even once in 10 years did they put anything but 5W30. I am due the next annual service in the summer this year, should I insist on 0w20?
  3. Yep. After practicing it does take around 5 to ten minutes. Tips for changing the bulb: 1. Use the longest life bulb you can get so you don't need to do it again any time soon 2. Don't bother with the stupid pin clips as they get brittle and shears off, galvanized garden wire is cheaper and last for ever 3.Re-Adjust the light position if needed so it can pass the Mot every time you remove the entire lens assembly to get to the stupid bulb What was wrong with round glass lenses?!
  4. Hi, No nothing like that, it's very brief and not every time, it sounds like this one:
  5. Key operated, serviced in June and noise started last month.
  6. My T27 1.8 petrol tourer developed some odd starting noise. Since last month when first starting up in the morning there is like a spike noise immediately as the car started. This noise doesn't happen if starting at any other time, only early or first thing in the day. The sound is like if you tried to start the engine while it was already started, like holding the ignition too long with the key. The car starts fine it just that noise. Can it be some sort of serpentine belt noise?
  7. Changed battery in the summer on a 1.33 StartStop 2010 and there is no code or anything, just needed to set the clock. Isn't the Yaris a victory of simplicity, logic and robustness over all the gadgets they stuff into cars now days? (Apart from the bloddy passenger side high beam bulb).
  8. Mind you not every independent can work on Hybrids due to the safety measures needed for working with high voltage.
  9. And this was the winning answer. Sprayed the white grease into the shock absorbers bearings and vualla! No more creaks. The sway bar bushings actually looks ok as I do give all the rubbers a bit of Waine stop leak spraying from time to time. Many thanks
  10. The Yaris is a simple vehicle, you can safely get it serviced by the usual big chains like National or F1, something like £160 for a full service at my local village garage. I do 12k annually and now on 120k without any issues, never serviced it by Mr T.
  11. Exactly like on my car, coming and going creaks especially on cold weather when turning the steering full pelt at slow moving speed from standing. Thanks, will have a look at the sway bars bushings. Probably will leave this like you to the tester and live with the creaks. These bushings are the original and started to creak at around 110k, car now has 120k and is ultra reliable otherwise.
  12. When I turn the steering wheel while the car moves very slowly, say coming out of parking there is a creaking noise. The noise sounds like a door hinge that needs a bit of oiling. Checked the rubber bushings on the CV joints and there is no tears or grease leaks. Checked the CV joints but can't hear any clunks when fully turning the steering wheel while driving in circles. What else should I look at? The car is a 2010 Mk2 1.33
  13. It is trying to tell you to clean up your MAF.
  14. Is there any way of further protecting the EPB box from contamination/water ingress? I only heard of very few VM failures on the petrol model, is this more common than we are made to believe?
  15. https://itstillruns.com/correct-way-jump-start-car-5985031.html
  16. Question (maybe a stupid one but can't see the answer in the manual). Which wheels are secured by the EPB? Is it just the rear like in a manual hand brake or all wheels?
  17. What is it that you try to change in the gearing mechanism?
  18. If the SS switch is on, first thing I would check is your Battery output, SS runs as it had a mind of it's own when I realized I am getting about 10v of the original Exide branded battery, this was at around 100k. Once fitted a new battery the SS is smooth.
  19. We had a 2003 Polo with a rusty filler neck, about £350 to sort out.
  20. At 185 60 15 and proper tracking we had Michlens but can't see what's all the fuss is about, lasted nicely at 25k on the front but very noisy. Swapped to Falkens ZE310, which where far quieter and lasted 24k. Currently on another set of Falkens, they behave a bit better than the Michlens in the wet and again far quieter.
  21. Absolutely right, French built Yaris has the electrically controlled steering.
  22. Most batteries are sealed for life so I wouldn't bother if yours is one of these. Checking that you have the right output is the key. I would however clean the terminals, battery tray and apply some dielectric grease all over the terminals. I would also add to your list lubricating the windows rollers with silicone spray. Wash with a watering hose your ac condenser and radiator can keep things clean from salt and consequently corrosion. Not a DIY job but if you have Aircon then a proper servicing by an AC technician every three years or so is well worth it in the UK where we don't bother switch it on during the cold months.
  23. Test your battery if it's still on the original, many garages will give you a check for free.
  24. I would change the hydraulic steering fluid at 60k, easy DIY Joby. Suck the fluid, top up with clean fluid, drive few days, suck everything out from the bottle and top up with new fluid. Change manual transmission oil is another easy one if you intend on keeping it for a while. If you know how to I would change the brake fluid too, not expensive if you ask the garage to do it. Spray rubber conditioner on all the rubber bushes. Get the front wheel alignment checked, only £30 to adjust on the Yaris in most places. Check the rear shoes and clean the inside of the drums is fairly easy on this car as well. Adjust the hand brake cable if needed, another very easy job on the Yaris Mk2 and Mk2.
  25. What are the grades specified for the 2.0 D4D in the manual? At least with the Toyota petrols the engines seems to be built for a wider than normal tolerance of different grades with one recommended grade. Both of my petrols the T27 1.8 and the Yaris 1.33 can drink according to the manual synthetic, semi synthetic and even a 10W40 semi if the recommended grade (0W20 or 5W30) is not available. There are variations in the 5W30 for sure but after years of using 5W30 full synthetic in different Toyota petrols I believe that Toyota don't build very narrow tolerance inside the grade like VAG and GM.