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Everything posted by Shavestick

  1. Look here, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Toyota-Avensis-Roof-Rack-For-5-Door-Estate-Travel-Touring-PZ403-T6611-GA-/221654859868?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0ttps You will need the plastic keys that open the plastic covers plus the hole covers. Don't leave the holes open to the elements as these will corrode due to poor plating in the 2009 to 2011 models.
  2. Thanks to this thread I saved myself £300 I was quoted to replace the strut top mount of our 2010 TR 1.8 Tourer. Took it to two garages with a hollow knock coming from the front passenger side. The first garage said they can’t find the source of the knock and that we should just live with it. They did not charge for the check. The second garage was close and said the top strut mount needs changing to the tune of £300. After booking the work I came across this thread, so I removed the rubber bung at the top mount, and indeed the screw in the middle was loose, I applied some locktight and gave it a full turn tightening. The knock has vanished now. Checked the other side and all is tight, the rubber mounts both look as new and have a thick layer of lithium grease, so not sure why replacing was ordered. Called the second place and cancelled.
  3. I removed the air hose, placed a short broom stick to hold the accelerator pedal down so the flap is open, then sprayed a little carb cleaner on a clean rag and carefully wiped the crap down from the throttle lips, flap on both sides was not carbonated so left it untreated. Once finished, rebooted the car by disconnecting the battery for few minutes (otherwise engine light would appear).
  4. Hi had the over revving problem, it was down to carbon build up in the throttle body causing the butterfly flap to not close properly. I cleaned it and since then (six month ago) had no issues.
  5. we do few long trips in our 2010 Tourer 1.8 TR every month. I tried E10 vs E5 and the Esso stuff (no ethanol added). There is a brim to brim difference of about 9% between the 97ron E5 and bog standard Tesco E10 and pushing to 10% better consumption with Esso super.
  6. Thanks for the tip Konard, after looking at some similar old threads here it looks like the min vci cable is needed. The only thing I am not sure of is the software Techstream. Although it is available online for windows 32 bit flavours it seems like there is few hoops to jump if you want Win x64 drivers for the cables. I still have a laptop with Win7 32 bit which allowed me installing it, it does ask for a license key (though not stopping it from working without it). I don't mind purchasing the license but I can't see what benefits it gives over using the software in free mode? Cable on Amazon seems to be selling for £25 or so but there are also some other PRC sourced cables sporting USB on one side and ODB2 on the other going for buttons and claiming compatibility with TechStream, is this another case of 'buyer beware'?
  7. Hi Konard, Good shout about TechStream, do you know if any OBD to USB cable will do? I see many ODB/USB cables on the bay but I am not sure which one will work? Do you know if TechStream support those wireless Bluetooth readers?
  8. I also leave the AC running all year round in our 1.33 TR, can't say I saw any significant difference in mpg to not have it on. Below is what goes into my two years AC service, this is not the same as repassing. Initial system test Check system components such as hoses, belts, condenser, compressor, fans, electrics etc Check internal system controls, flaps, heating etc Recover any existing refrigerant from the system Vacuum A/C system Regas (recharge) A/C system with refrigerant to vehicle specific levels Add A/C oil and leak detection dye Leak test components Full post re-gas system test Update service records. BTW our aerial rubber also perished after ten years, the innards are made of copper so no risk of rusting. At the time I wrapped some black canvas type Gorilla tape around it and it's still there after a year, better than throwing a perfectly good aerial otherwise.
  9. I have a MY 59 Mk2 with the 1.33 engine and six gear box. I am a second owner and got her at 40k now on 130k. One thing you need to do with any car AC is to service it every two years. This is a point our mobile AC specialist always make. Preferably don't use outfits like Kwikfit to do it, I don't need to tell you why. Service is about £70 and includes a full inspection. Apparently AC is a service item but most brands including Toyota don't insist you follow it, but you should. So far with this service regime I never had an issue with the AC. Oil consumption is slightly higher since 100k. About a litre between the services. I always used 5w30 fully synthetic despite the manual guidance for 0w20. In the early years 5w30 is what our Toyota dealer filled so I stuck to this grade. In reality the only issue I had was a stuck passenger door molested by one of the kids by spilling something sugary. You are right, the plastic on the headlights is like new and I don't keep her indoor.
  10. Thanks Konard (as always). Followed this and now sorted, did not noticed this behaviour since. Battery is fairly new but will give it an output check tomorrow. All the best
  11. Something odd started this week. When I brake to stop the engine is revving up to 2300 rpm and when stopped go down to the usual tickover of 1000rpm. Any ideas what can cause this?
  12. I own my 2010 1NR-FE 1.33 Yaris from new. In the manual it said that 0w20 is what recommend. As it was always serviced by Mr T main dealer and they always use the cheaper Toyota 5w30. The car have now over 120k and it burns about a litre every 5k which I believe is about normal for a car doing a 50 miles commute. I asked around other dealers and yes 5w30 is what they prescribed. Asking why, just to confuse things I am told that in northern Europe Mr T use both grades in the 1NR-FE. I will continue using what the dealer see fit as I never had anything going wrong with the Engine.
  13. Look for the later 1.33 Petrols. These are better built than the MY2006-2008 So far in 10 years of ownership and 120k miles the only thing needed fixing was the passenger lock that ceased due to heavy handed kid. The car burns some oil between services but no more than a litre per year which is ok for high milage daily use. No under body rust on my example and the only wash she gets underneath is rain and puddles. The headlights on the MY2009+ seems not to develop the plastic fogging affecting previous models. The 1NF-E motor with the six speed manual is fairly strong with 100bhp which is good for such small and short vehicle. Can easily get you out of trouble and not too dull when cornering. I personally never had a more trouble free motor before so buy with confidence.
  14. My 2010 1.8 which I acquired in July 2019 have a full main dealer history. I asked the nice lady at the service counter to print me the service record and not even once in 10 years did they put anything but 5W30. I am due the next annual service in the summer this year, should I insist on 0w20?
  15. Yep. After practicing it does take around 5 to ten minutes. Tips for changing the bulb: 1. Use the longest life bulb you can get so you don't need to do it again any time soon 2. Don't bother with the stupid pin clips as they get brittle and shears off, galvanized garden wire is cheaper and last for ever 3.Re-Adjust the light position if needed so it can pass the Mot every time you remove the entire lens assembly to get to the stupid bulb What was wrong with round glass lenses?!
  16. Hi, No nothing like that, it's very brief and not every time, it sounds like this one:
  17. Key operated, serviced in June and noise started last month.
  18. My T27 1.8 petrol tourer developed some odd starting noise. Since last month when first starting up in the morning there is like a spike noise immediately as the car started. This noise doesn't happen if starting at any other time, only early or first thing in the day. The sound is like if you tried to start the engine while it was already started, like holding the ignition too long with the key. The car starts fine it just that noise. Can it be some sort of serpentine belt noise?
  19. Changed battery in the summer on a 1.33 StartStop 2010 and there is no code or anything, just needed to set the clock. Isn't the Yaris a victory of simplicity, logic and robustness over all the gadgets they stuff into cars now days? (Apart from the bloddy passenger side high beam bulb).
  20. Mind you not every independent can work on Hybrids due to the safety measures needed for working with high voltage.
  21. And this was the winning answer. Sprayed the white grease into the shock absorbers bearings and vualla! No more creaks. The sway bar bushings actually looks ok as I do give all the rubbers a bit of Waine stop leak spraying from time to time. Many thanks
  22. The Yaris is a simple vehicle, you can safely get it serviced by the usual big chains like National or F1, something like £160 for a full service at my local village garage. I do 12k annually and now on 120k without any issues, never serviced it by Mr T.
  23. Exactly like on my car, coming and going creaks especially on cold weather when turning the steering full pelt at slow moving speed from standing. Thanks, will have a look at the sway bars bushings. Probably will leave this like you to the tester and live with the creaks. These bushings are the original and started to creak at around 110k, car now has 120k and is ultra reliable otherwise.
  24. When I turn the steering wheel while the car moves very slowly, say coming out of parking there is a creaking noise. The noise sounds like a door hinge that needs a bit of oiling. Checked the rubber bushings on the CV joints and there is no tears or grease leaks. Checked the CV joints but can't hear any clunks when fully turning the steering wheel while driving in circles. What else should I look at? The car is a 2010 Mk2 1.33
  25. It is trying to tell you to clean up your MAF.
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