Corolla2004

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About Corolla2004

  • Rank
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Profile Information

  • First Name
    John
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Toyota Model
    Corolla (2004) Auris (2011)
  • Toyota Year
    2004
  • Location
    Buckinghamshire

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  1. In researching what wipers to buy for my Auris I came across this Denso diagram illustrating the performance differences of standard/flat/hybrid wipers. I've hence ordered some hybrid ones & it will be interesting to see if they live up to the hype.
  2. Glad you were able to resolve your problem. As my Auris also had seized rear pads due to rust; it might be wise for other Auris owners to check for this at the same time as checking for seized sliding pins. As you're not certain that your pistons are properly aligned with your pads; I would recommend doing the check I did which is to see that the rear tyre rotates freely when jacked up & with the handbrake off. Alternatively after a gentle drive put your hand against the caliper/wheel to check its not hot due to the pads rubbing.
  3. I'm probably asking the obvious but have you tried replacing the battery? I believe the transponder is in the electronics module. You will need a Techstream to reprogram it to your car & possibly you will need a locksmith to 'reset' the module before you can reprogram it. Here's such a service: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/123728913324?ul_noapp=true
  4. Yes for those plugs you need a 14mm. I bought this one on somebody's recommendation on this forum: :https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07YFXFB97/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  5. I've just done my rear pads & discs on my 2011 Auris hybrid at 80k miles They were last replaced by a Toyota dealer at 50k miles! The pads were half worn but the discs were not good. I was expecting to find stuck sliding pins but cause of the problem was stuck pads due to bad rust on the mounting brackets which was squeezing the little insert pads holders tight. After removing the rust with a file i found the pads were free to move easily. So i recommend checking for rust rather than assuming that the replacement pads are too big as others have done. Also, to my surprise, I found both pistons retracted clockwise. The left hand one (nearside UK) went back easily but the right hand required a lot of pressure. I used the same wind back kit that Konrad has and found the 'F' adaptor fitted perfectly. I was delighted to find genuine Toyota rear pads & discs on Ebay for a total of £88 from Toyota dealers. The discs were made in the UK & the pads in Japan. For reference the discs were 42431-02190 & the pads were 04466-12150 & my hybrid's model code is ZWE150. However the mail order took several days to arrive.
  6. I've got two suggestions to raise after trying to understand the self adjusting mechanism of Auris & later Prius rear brakes (with parking brakes operating on the discs). These rear calipers have the pistons located on screw threads rather being free to move like the front calipers. 1. As Zed suggests; my research says that the left hand (UK nearside) caliper retracts when turned clockwise & the right hand one retracts when turned anti clockwise 2. But am I right in thinking that self adjustment (i.e. taking up of brake pad wear) only occurs when the parking brake is applied? In other words only the parking brake has a ratcheting effect on the piston. This of course has implications for taking up the slack after replacing the rear pads. Now the pistons have indents to accept & lock to a pin on the inside brake pad. If my second point is correct, then surely it is vital after brake pad replacement to press on the brake pedal first (thus pushing the pin into the indent) & only then to apply the parking brake (thus taking up the slack). Doing these actions separately might cause the pin to locate on a raised portion of the caliper rather than correctly in an indent?
  7. My Corolla is a 2l manual diesel. A few years back when choosing another car I decided it had to be an automatic. My approach, by the way, is to buy a car & then keep until it falls apart. That made me choose a Toyota hybrid as any other automatic's gearbox is far too complex compared to a hybrid's fixed sun & planets gears. So you ask how do the 2 cars compare. 1. Both are hatchbacks but the Corolla has a much bigger boot. Now I would go for an Auris estate 2.The diesel Corolla is now on 143k miles has been very reliable apart from needing new glowplugs & clutches. Being old it hasn't got a DPR. The fuel consumption is similar for both cars apart from motorway journeys where the diesel excels. Of course the automatic hybrid is doodle to drive in traffic 3. Otherwise they are very comparable with both having Toyota's trademark light controls and steering. 4. DIY maintenance on the Corolla is easy & I'm happy to do the oil changes & disc/pads changes etc. For the Auris I like Toyota's extended warranty; which means a Toyota dealer does the maintenance for now.
  8. Oldcodger, You're absolutely right about there must be washers/gaskets . When I closely inspected the removed hose, I discovered two washers on either side of the banjo, joined by a strip to form a u shaped single item.. Now that makes more sense.
  9. I making this update for the benefit of novices who might be interested on working on their brake hoses & need to know the spanner & washer sizes. The flare nut spanner needed to undo the metal pipe nut is 10mm. Advice on the web was to buy a 6 point one so I bought a 'Sealey VS0348 Brake Pipe Spanner 10 x 11mm'.It felt very secure in operation. The banjo nuts each require 2 x M10mm copper crush washers. These were not included with the Pagid hoses I bought. Very oddly there were none in place on the one I dismantled! The bleed screw needs an 8 mm ring spanner. I used Plus gas several times in advance of the work & had no issues when dismantling. The other other comment to make is what pain it is having single piston brake calipers with sliding guide pins which stick. I now use an adjustable blade hand reamer (size 10mm - 10.75mm) which I find just the job to clean up the holes without enlarging them. I use this with brake cleaning fluid.
  10. Hi, Doesn't sound normal. What engine do you have ....... as knowing whether it's petrol or diesel could help other give you advice.
  11. Stephen & Oldcodger thanks very much for your replies. I'm still in two minds as to whether to diy it or go to a local garage. I'm not under any time pressure to fix the car so I might start with just the defective hose. If I do, I'll have to invest in a quality brake spanner, Sealey appears to do good ones. Do the hoses come with 2 x copper crush washers or do you have to buy them separately?
  12. I've owned my 2004 Corolla from new. I've just discovered I'm losing a little brake fluid due to a failing rubber brake hose on my near side rear wheel at the point where the hose is attached to the chassis. I've got 2 questions: 1. Would it be sensible to replace the brake hoses on all 4 wheels or is this a rare one off event and doing the other 3 would be overkill? 2. I've done brake bleeding in the past but I'm wondering if I should get my local garage to do the work on the basis that if the hose nuts are impossible to remove then I might be stranded without being able to drive the car to get professional help. Any advice please? John
  13. It could be the radiator or expansion tank cap is aged & weak and is allowing the coolant to escape at too low a pressure. It's cheap & easy to replace thus eliminating it as a source of your problem. They don't last forever & yours will be 13 years old if it hasn't been replaced. This occurred recently on my 2004 2l D4D Corolla..
  14. You asked: 1) happened to the brake fluid after I replaced the discs? I would guess that it barely went up if you only replaced the disks. It's only when you replace the pads do you have to get the piston pushed right back into the calliper. Then the levels really do go up. Overall I would get the brake fluid & oil level up to the maximum levels & then monitor them. If they stay up you haven't got a problem!
  15. This is from the 2004 Corolla owner's manual for my 2litre 1CD-FTV diesel car. Shows oil capacity is 5.9/5.3l (with or without filter change) & the preferred oil grade is 5W-30 for all temperatures. Oil grade is ACEA B1, API CF-4 or CF