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dvdmeister

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    Corolla 1.4 Calida

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  1. If you car is the facelift model (which I think the X's all were), then according to the handbook I've got, your high beam bulb is an HB3 and your low beam is an HB4 (since on the facelift they are separate lamps within the headlamp enclosure). On my handbook this info is on p253. The handbook also has some simple instructions on how to do this lamp change, although having looked at it I'm not convinced that moving just the air intake pipe out of the way (in front of the battery - passenger side lamp) and moving the header for the screenwash out of the way (drivers side) will give enough room to do this easily!
  2. Anyone ever figure out how to do this? I've got the destructions to add new key fobs to the wireless door lock system, but there's no mention anywhere (that I've found) of how to actually add a new transponder to the imobiliser system. I've read various lists of instructions, some requiring opening and closing of doors and insertion and removal of the key from the ignition a bunch of times, and other requiring a similar proceedure with the accelerator and brake pedals, but I've no idea which is the correct one for the E11 Corollas. All I know is that I've got an original (working) Valeo key (says Valeo on the blade and also on the casing of the transponder/remote unit inside), with a part no of 89071-02010 on the white sticky label of the transponder key unit. I've also got a second hand transponder with 89071-0D010 on the label, which from the EPC program looks like it might work on my car too. Anyone got any suggestions on this one? :) Cheers and Happy New Year to all!
  3. Hi all - thought I'd resuscitate this thread to ask one very important question! I've bought a pair of the Alpine SPE-10C2 speakers for the rear of my car, but having started pulling off trim, I'm not at the point of some serious head scratching. Basically I'm stumped as to how on gods earth you can get any screwdriver into the 3rd screw on the mounting bracket - I'm talking about the ridiculously placed one that is right up against the plastic trim section that goes around the quarter window and then back towards the rear windscreen. How have you all managed it? Do you have to remove the huage piece of trim that forms the mounting point for the speakers and goes right back to the rear hatch opening? Is there some really wacky super low profile screwdriver that will do the job? I don't really want to take off more trim than I have to but its not looking good at the mo! Cheers! :)
  4. I don't have any idea on specifically the G6 models - I think traditionally the 6th gear is pushed a little bit lower ratio wise than the 5th gear in the same model of car, with 5th gear a bit higher ratio on a 6spd than on the 5spd, 4th similarly higher on the 6sp, etc etc. although 1st and sometimes 2nd on a 6spd would be the same on the 6spd and 5spd boxes. But it all depends on the engine characteristics as these determine the most sensible gearing choices. The easiest way to check it is to find out what the manufacturers 0-60 times are for the G6 and the closest equivalent (weight and equipment wise) 5spd model - if they are the same, then the ratios for the first 3 gears are likely to be the same, and if not they will be different :)
  5. I had that in my E11 a little bit - but I've only ever noticed it about 5 times in the last 4 years. It just looks like a light white fog being blown out of the air vents, and would occur usually during an entire journey (with the air con on of course!). I guess the important thing to note is that it only ever happened when it was hot (ie. above 25 degrees outside temp) and very humid outside. Didn't seem to affect the cooling of the air con and it didn't seem to affect me adversely (no smell either), so I never worried about it, and assumed it was air moisture related. I've also occasionally seen my own breath inside the car when its very sunny outside and the air con is on (think it was on recirc mode, hence was probably colder than normal). Since your air conditioner's cold radiator (the one inside the dashboard) is having air blown across it from either outside or recirculated from inside the car, it does make sense that if you blow moist, warm air across the air con rad, some of it might not condense fully onto the cold rad at that point as water, but might just be cooled to the all-most condensed transitional form known as mist or fog, which would then come out of the air vents looking like white smoke, before quickly being warmed up by the rest of the air in the car, causing it to disappear as the water suspends fully in the air again. It should be quite easy to test if this is the case for you, by taking the car out at night when it's cooler outside, and seeing whether you still get the effect. Also, having a think about it, if you run the A/C in recirc mode for a while, then it should dry out the inside air quite a lot - turning the air con off at this point for a couple of minutes and then firing it up again would therefore not be likely to give you the smoke effect (if its water vapour related). Good luck figuring it out - let us know how you get on! :)
  6. Hi Londoner - do you have a model no for the Alpines you recommend? Are we talking same kind of volume as OEMs but better quality sound? If you used them in an E11, what was the deal with the rear speaker mounting brackets? I noticed the annoyance you mention - I feel the logic went something like "oh - look - we have a hole here with nothing in it - lets squeeze whatever strange sized speakers we can get into it". I might do the front speakers at some point, but having read people's past experiences of doing these, it seems like a bit of a pain in the ubik to a) get to them and b ) derivet and remount the new ones, and I don't have enough time at the mo to get into that (much as I might like to :) ) Carl sr - think I might have to do some serious remodelling of my car to get 16cm speakers into the existing E11 rear speaker holes :) Does your car have rear door speakers, or did you mount the 16cm jobs into the parcel shelf?
  7. Hey all I know that ICE has been covered in many a thread on this forum, but since I'm trying to do something a bit different I thought I should probably make a new thread. Basically, the rear speakers have been giving me a bit of jip just recently - I've had the covers off (I've got piccies if anyones interested in the how to on that - I was a bit stumped until I spent my 3 euros and downloaded the manuals from Toyota :) ) and have discovered that it seems to be the actual cones of the speakers that are making the rattling/distorting sound at higher volumes, and if I rest my finger strategically on the cones round the edges I can stop it. However, rather than get into a serious bodging session to try and sort that annoyance out, I figured I might be better off swapping them for something else. So - the question is - if I'm only (at this stage) going to upgrade the rears, and leave the stock front door speakers and head unit as is, what would be a good choice of rear speaker to give me a bit of extra punch but to also blend well with the standard Toyota head unit and front speakers? I usually run with a bit of extra volume on the rears when I'm driving on my own, but I don't have a huge desire to get anything too mental audio wise, but I don't mind spending £60-£100 if its worth it. So long as it sounds decent and balanced and can drown out the road noise on the motorway (and doesn't make the crazy cone reverberation noises that I'm getting now) I'll be a happy man :) Does anyone know the specs of the Toyota rear speakers incidentally? Are they 4ohm jobbies or is there any wierd impedance cack to deal with. I've measured the existing speakers and they seem to be 11cm diameter from the edges of the cone, so I'm assuming 4"/10cm speakers will be the order of the day for any replacements - I'm also not sure what speakers can easily mount to the strange triangluar mounting arrangement (3 mounting points round the cone at what looks like 1/3rd circumference offset), or if you just need to rip out the bracket from the existing speakers and bodge that on. I've also not measured the depth available for speakers, but it seems like there is quite a bit (although probably not at full cone width all the way down). Hopefully you guys and gals will have already been there and done that and will be able to tell me exactly what I'm looking for! Cheers Alex
  8. Sorry to hijack this thread a bit - but couldn't help noticing you have an E11 facelift, and wondered how the heck you got that triangle shaped piece of interior trim (that covers the mirror's bolt head) off to change the mirrors!? I've tugged and pulled at it but it won't budge on my car! :) PS: I reckon the mirrors are OK - go quite well with the other mods on your cars front end. Although I'm not a fan of mirrors with holes in them personally, the overall shape is quite nice.
  9. I don't know whether its just me, but I find that if I change my foot position on the accelerator, it has quite an impact on the fuel consumption - if I have my foot further forwards (so that the pressure on the pedal is from the middle of my foot), then the fuel consumption increases, but if I drive with the tips of my toes, or with my foot pointing outwards at an angle and my big toe putting most of the pressure on the pedal, I can get 5-10mpg fuel consumptin better as indicated on the real time mpg calculator! Maybe my pedal is just a bit over sensitive to small pressure changes or something, or maybe moving my foot just makes me less lead footed subconsciously, but I haven't figured it out :)
  10. Ahh well - SatNav on phones is generally pants I'll admit :) - however, a standalone tomtom box that you can stick to the windscreen is only £200-£300 and for that you get colour screen and 3D mapping etc. - on my car I think the only version of sat nav available when new was the monochrome low res 2D version, and I imagine it was at least a grand to buy. I think the newer Corollas have a much better satnav option, but its list price in this file http://www.toyota.co.uk/bv/UK_car_prices/i...rices_Mar06.pdf is £1150 or £2000 (!) for the full colour system, and thats factory fitted - probably at least another hundred more expensive to have a dealer fit it for you. Still not sure if its any better in terms of functionality from a £300 tomtom box though ;)
  11. Well since no-one has replied with any firm info - here's my take: Heated wing mirrors - depending on the wiring system used, you may find that there is a wiring loom already in place in the door for the heating elements in the mirrors, but you would still have to buy at least the mirror glass for each side - on my car just the heated glass mirrors are about £50 a side, so its not going to be cheap - you may well have to buy the whole mirror units to get the wiring link to get from the wiring loom (if its there) inside the door out to the mirror glass, and these are about £130+ a side I seem to remember (without any painting that may be required, or fitting). Cruise control - no idea if this can actually be done after the car is built, especially since I'm not sure any of the Corolla range has cruise control - that would be a question to the dealer I would say, but again its going to be expensive I would imagine. Sat Nav should be easy to do but don't expect that to be cheap - you will need at least the CD/DVD drive box and a disc to go in it, as well as a linking cable, and they aint cheap unless you can get one off ebay. Good luck with it all - personally, I woudn't bother with any of the options, given the amount of agro involved, but its different if you are doing it 'for fun' if you get my meaning :) Don't forget you can get portable sat nav systems for washers these days, which are quite often better than the inbuilt systems in terms of functionality!
  12. Yeh - what it sounds like they do is check your oil level vs the number of miles you do inbetween fillups, and if the oil consumption is more than something like 1 litre per 600 miles they will replace the short block of the engine, which Toyota will pay the dealer for doing so long as they have tested the oil consumption and recorded it on the bit of paper you have (hence the return the sheet in a box with the old short block note you read). Sounds like you should be sorted, so long as the oil consumption is as stupidly high as it sounds :)
  13. If you want to get an official answer on the oil grade question, there is a contact number for Toyota UK head office - might be worth it just to clear that up. I don't have the number, but I've read posts on this site with the details on - maybe someone will repost here fyi.
  14. Well the new 5 door Civic has only been out a few months here, so I don't know what the release date is in Latvia - delivery was only 2 weeks here in the UK though, but then they do build the things in Swindon anyway :)
  15. Well first of all - the d4d will be very different to drive from your honda 1.6 petrol, just because diesels are very different animals - if you've driven a turboed diesel engine car, you'll know what I mean. You get lots of torque at the low end of the rev scale, but the diesel engine will tend to run out of puff as you rev it higher, unlike a petrol which just pulls harder the more you rev. I think I know the Honda engine you have (assuming its the VTEC one) - its a pretty fun engine to have, and is very 'petrolly' in its power delivery (i.e. the power just keeps rising as you rev, even more so because of the VTEC system), so you might find something like a d4d a bit of a shock :) Whether you can live with it is a personal thing. This might be tantamount to blasphemy on this forum, but if you ARE looking for a brand new car, and are interested in a diesel AND like Hondas, then check out the new Civic 2.2 diesel - my dads just bought one of these and they are amazingly fun :D !Removed! expensive though!
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