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MickJo

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About MickJo

  • Rank
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Profile Information

  • First Name
    Mick
  • Toyota Model
    Rav4
  • Toyota Year
    2010
  • Location
    Yorkshire

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  1. I agree with Devon Aygo, too high a gear for the speed required. I have been out in my 2010 2.2 d this afternoon with the following results. Tick-over revs are 8oo rpm. At tick-over the speeds are ; 1st gear = 8mph; 2nd gear = 12mph and 3rd gear =17mph. To reach 23mph in 3rd gear I required about 1200 rpm. As a trial I set off from stationary, without using the accelerator, in 1st gear the car pulls straight up to 800rpm and 8mph. Without using the accelerator I then change into 2nd gear and the car pulls straight up to 800rpm and 12mph. Again without using the accelerator I chang
  2. Hi Alex (Avalon) There is no adjustment to the rear wheel camber (lean in or lean out of the wheel from vertical). I had assumed that the rear tyre wear was due to bad camber, and I was all set to replace the bushes. When I rang Formula 1 Autocentre to book a slot and explained the problem, the immediate response that the problem was toe in/out and not bushes. The 4 wheel laser alignment check did in fact show the problem to be toe-in / toe-out, and this is adjustable. The adjuster bar runs across the front of the lower control arm. If you google 'adjustable rear control arm' for y
  3. Further update. I took it to Formula 1 Autocentre, Geldard Road, Leeds yesterday and it was given a 4 wheel alignment check. Rear camber was as near spot on as makes no difference. The rear toe in/out was a total of -4 degs. out, (-3.8 degs. on the nearside and -0.2 degs on the offside.) They are now both at the Toyota spec of +0.8 degs . The front wheels were also out by a total of -5degs, (-3.5 on the nearside and and -1.4 degs on the offside.) They are now both at +0.3 degs. As far as the reported 'epoxy' adjusters are concerned, they had never come across it in 20 years,
  4. Hi Anshul, I think I know what you mean when you say you are 'warming the car up'. You are not 'warming the up car ', you are 'warming up the injectors ' The injector warning light , as you already note, looks like a coiled spring. On my 2010 model it appears at the bottom right of the warning light cluster. When you switch the ignition to the 'ignition on' position the light should come on. On a cold start, the light stays on for 5 seconds, as the engine warms up the light will go out almost at once. When you switch the ignition to 'start', that is before you crank the starter moto
  5. Can I first thank all those who have given their advice and comments. which much appreciated. I will continue with the following thoughts. The shock absorbers were replaced about 2 years ago. I have discounted them as a problem as they only affect the ride, not the ride height. The springs are original and are something to look at later in the year. A point here. What is the ride height and at what point on the bodywork is it measured? Neither the upper or lower control arms are adjustable. As the inner ( near the centre-line of the chassis) upper and lower control arm fixing b
  6. My 2010 2.2diesel Rav 4 passed its MOT today. The only matter on Safety Sheet of note is that both rear tyres have worn more on the inside than the outside. ROS is Outer 5.3mm, Middle 4.7mm and Inner 3.5mm. The RNS is Outer 5.6mm, Middle 5.1mm and Inner 4.6mm. As can be seen the ROS has worn at a taper of 1.8mm across the width and the RNS has worn by a 1mm. taper. Both wheels are leaning inwards at the top. albeit only by a fraction. As far as I am aware the suspension is not damaged. Equally I don't think that there is any means of adjustment on the suspension. Has anyone any ideas, or
  7. Good evening all, I have a 2010 Rav 4 2.2 diesel and would like to fit an auto folding mirror module to over-ride the in-out button on the centre console. There is 2013 u-tube video (American I think) where a Rav 4E is fitted with a Do Cooler module and a close-up shows the vehicle wiring plug has the same colour sequence as mine. However the Do Cooler module appears to be no longer available. There are lots of different modules for sale, many using the same photo but with different names. I presume that the module wiring of these is different to the Do Cooler. Has anyone fitted any o
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