Registered Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About Yarso

  • Rank
    Club Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
  • Toyota Model
    Yaris Verso T3 1.3 Petrol Auto
  • Toyota Year
  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Ah thanks - it's hydraulic so I think I may have overdone it then! It's running Ok now but I'd better ease it back a bit. I mangled the lower alt bolt head, so I'fl reset it when I replace the bolt. Thanks again for your help!
  2. That seemed to go Ok, though I'm sure I've not put as much coolant back in as came out! One further query - as it stands the alternator drive belt has been re-tightened to give about 9mm finger deflection on the longest run - is that enough or should it be tighter? The alternator is further in than the old (original 15 year old!) one, but I think they do stretch a little with time. I forgot to compare old and new side by side, unfortunately.
  3. Thanks - off to do some burping.
  4. Fortunately never owned a BMW Mini! Do you happen to know if there's any special procedure to filling/bleeding the coolant on the 1.3 VVT-i? I've owned a few cars where there's a bleed screw hidden away somewhere, or some other strange procedure (e.g. an old Renault Trafic where you had to unship the coolant reservoir and hang it up from the raised bonnet!) but hopefully that's rare these days...
  5. Removing the 3 bolts on the o/s engine mount and dropping it about 30mm on that side seems to do the trick - the pump came out successfully, and no unexpected noises of things breaking as the engine came down. Just got to get some fresh Hylomar tomorrow (yeah I know, it's probably designed to go in "dry", but Hylomar will do no harm) and then whack the new one in.
  6. Well, seems like the book is correct. Even with the alternator out, it won't clear the o/s chassis member. It's almost as though the Japanese designers calculated the length of the inner shaft so that it would always look as though it might come out, but never actually would... Do you reckon it will be Ok to remove just the o/s mount (with engine supported, of course) and lower just that end? I'm a bit anxious about that because it's going to have to come down at least an inch, and that seems like an awful lot of sideways twisting. Though the car isn't worth much, I don't want to break it in the process of replacing a water pump that probably would have gone on OK for thousands more miles...
  7. Do they say whether to remove the mount and drop the engine, or raise the engine? I would imagine the former, but the pump sits right beside the "chassis rail" (for want of a better term) so either would probably work. Though I suspect something else would foul (e.g. the exhaust) before you could raise it high enough. I'll try it "not to the book" first.
  8. Madasafish - that's exactly what I did (except I drained the coolant first!) but it won't come out that way. Flash - thanks. It's the 1.3 petrol VVTI. Good to hear it will go that way - it's very hard to tell visually whether it will or not. I was fearing that I might have to loosen the engine mounts and raise or lower the engine!
  9. Please can someone help me out with some guidance on removing the water pump from a 2004 1.3 petrol VVT-I Yaris Verso? I suspect that the Yaris Verso and the Yaris are the same in this respect, as I ~think~ the chassis structure is identical? I can get the pulley off and the bolts out, but it won't come out between the engine and the edge of the engine bay! Perhaps I haven't tried every possible orientation, but it seems as though it simply won't come out downwards - is it necessary to remove the alternator and wangle it out upwards? Do the two studs (it's fixed with 3 bolts and two nuts on studs) have to be removed, and if so, do you need a Torx socket set to get the studs out (I've only got Torx bits, not sockets)? The ends of each stud look like a Torx bit, but I'm not certain of the pattern (having owned VW's where they use fixings that look like Torx but are not!). TIA!
  10. The dealer price for the rear section was £90 which is Ok. The front section is over £1k, but in fairness that does include the cat, as it's all in one. I had a lot of trouble finding a seller of pattern parts that could say for certain that they had one that would fit a Yaris Verso. Secondhand parts are probably the way to go for internal bits - but easier to do with a standard Yaris than with a Verso.
  11. Yes, marked as faulty on the MOT but not yet a fail. I have stumped up the £180+, which is I guess a bit daft on a 15 year old vehicle, but at least I only have one to replace, not two! It's one of the classic dilemmas with vehicles of that age - I've already replaced the rear exhaust section (Toyota dealer price was cheaper than any of the pattern part suppliers I could find!), so I've got to keep on spending. But up to a point I don't mind too much, as they are very versatile little cars...
  12. Flash22: My apologies - I was misinformed by a Toyota dealer's parts dept. You're quite right, and they have now explained that "traffic spec" is as you say. I know there are often used ones on Ebay, but I don't want a used one!
  13. I know, but I have one nearly-new and one old one. I'm not going to change that for one nearly new and one slightly better old one. It's still going to look lopsided.
  14. Yes - not only are they cloudy, but the O/S headlight is crazed - I think the previous owner (my Dad) polished them a bit too hard with a rotary polisher and caused that. The N/S is near-perfect because it was replaced after a minor bump a few years back - so I'm replacing it more to make it look the same both sides than to make it less cloudy! I don't think you can get Yaris Verso pattern parts for £35! And "Traffic spec" has nothing to do with RHD or LHD. Other than that you're completely right!
  15. Ah yes -I think you're right. Ours have the teardrops, and I've just found another listing which shows some without. So the changeover probably happened some time during 2004 - maybe not even at a single point in time, as French- and Japanese-made bodies may have switched at different times. If I can bring myself to stump up £200 (on a car that's probably worth less than £800), I'll go for the traffic-spec ones.