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About Yarso

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  • Toyota Model
    Yaris Verso T3 1.3 Petrol Auto
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  1. You can guess - or you can hook up a diagnostic scanner to the OBD port and it will give you the info to narrow the problem down. It's not always 100% accurate, but it's usually cheaper that way than guessing and working by trail and error.
  2. If you think that the cause is the fuel pump, and it is currently blowing a fuse instantly, a good test would be to disconnect the wiring to the fuel pump, turn on the ignition and see if the fuse blows. If not, you can be pretty sure it's the pump, and not something else on the same circuit. It's fairly unlikely to be a blocked filter, but I would change the filter anyway (and maybe cut open the old one so that you know whether it was a contributory factor). Don't forget to change the fuse back to the correct value. Better to have a fuse blow in future rather than have your wiring loom melt and/or catch fire!
  3. Ok, the picture shows a 17" wheel! The point is that a 17" wheel was never fitted to a Yaris Verso, and I have serious doubts that a 17" wheel will fit. If I read the specs right that tyre will mean a 16.6mm bigger radius, and is almost 40mm wider, so either you'll be rubbing on the wheel arch liners at the front (on lock) or they will stick out beyond the wheel arches (maybe legal in your country, but not legal in the UK). As far as I can see, that ET will mean that the inner edge of the rim is a full 25mm further in towards the centre line of the car. It might fit, but I doubt it!
  4. Are you sure you really mean 17"? The standard wheel on the Yaris Verso was 14", and I have a vague recollection that the optional alloys were 15" - though the Owner's Manual only shows 14" as fitted from the factory. To get a 17" wheel to fit would seem to need "rubber band" profile tyres, if it's possible at all.
  5. Thanks for the update - so much for my theory that nothing would work if one of the big fuses had gone. My only experience of it is when my dear old Dad was sold the "correct" battery by Halfords, which was actually the correct one for a French-built car (ours is Japanese-built) - it had the terminals round the wrong way, which blew at least one of the fuses in the fusible link block.
  6. In that case there are three - the "fusible link block" is attached to the +ve battery clamp and hangs down behind the battery. But it won't be that, as everything will be dead if that has blown (don't ask how I know that!). If he hasn't yet noticed, the functions of the fuses and relays are marked on the inside of the engine bay fuse box cover - though you may need to Google the meaning of some of the two-letter abbreviations...
  7. Hmmm... Is this something that varies depending on whether French- or Japanese-made? Mine definitely has one fusebox at the RH end of the dash, not behind the glovebox - and there are 2 under the bonnet - though one is the "fusible link" box, which probably won't be the cause.
  8. Can you confirm which fuse panels he has checked? As far as I can tell there are at least 3 separate fuse blocks - has he checked all three? One is (assuming RHD vehicle) at the R.H. end of the dash. The other two are in the engine compartment.
  9. These days it's very unlikely. You can get brownouts where the voltage sags a bit without going off, but a 2 year old charger should handle that without a problem - it should never be able to generate power surges under those conditions. I would re-check all of the fuses again, just to be sure, as it's quite common for fuses to fail at the edge of the fusible part, where it's difficult to see. But if not that, I would think it will be a control module failure. I suppose it's possible that a relay could have failed, but they are pretty dumb devices and they are relatively hard to break.
  10. If you haven't already done so, it would be worth disconnecting the battery, leaving it for a few minutes and then reconnecting - if the voltage has been brought up slowly from dead flat you may find that some control modules activate before others and things then may not work properly. Unfortunately it's not unknown for control modules to fail completely during battery discharge and recharging - but hopefully that's not the case here.
  11. Actually, this seems a bit of an understatement. If those panels are missing, the rear seats would be almost unusable for anyone except those with very long legs, because there would be nothing to rest your feet on other than the floor of the void that the seats fold into. Are you sure that this is not just a misunderstanding about how the panels are used?
  12. A vehicle breakers. Many advertise on Ebay. There are seven being advertised there right now. Of course, whether the parts are affordable depends on the breaker.
  13. One option may be to use an EOBD socket solar charger - they are quite widely available (in the UK, anyway). The EOBD socket should have a permanent 12V live, unlike the cigar/accessory socket. I should add that many car manufacturers do not recommend any form of battery maintenance via the OBD socket so it may invalidate the warranty - but on an 08 car that's not an issue!
  14. Unfortunately there are a few things it could be, but blocked fuel filter (or possibly blocked fuel outlet in the tank) could cause those symptoms. Typically if the fuel supply is very restricted, the engine will run Ok at idle (because that takes very little fuel) but the fuel pressure sags away when you try to apply power. I doubt the fuel filter would be expensive and should be easy enough to change, and you may get an indication from how much crud is in the old one as to whether you may have a lot of debris in the tank.
  15. True, but it's not the only risk you face. If for example you were involved in a serious accident in which your headlights might have been a contributory factor, the post-accident investigation would reveal the fact that non-standard, illegal lights were fitted. Your insurance company would then be within its rights to void your insurance on the basis of an undeclared modification. I admit, though, that it's unlikely. If an accident were to be caused by an oncoming driver being momentarily blinded by your lights, it's far more likely that the accident would happen behind you, and you would not even be identified.