Henrik (Denmark)

It a workshop laptop so it is limited what her can do with it. He is going to help with some drivers that are teasing me too. The engine code is 2ad-fhv so they are expensive. What can you get them for? Not reconditioned.

Thanks for your help. The seller will fix it with teamviewer. In the meanwhile i have had the injectors tested and they are all faulty. 3 of them is leaking a lot, the last one has a shortcut inside in the electrics. So probably where the fault is. I have been scouting online for a new set and the cheapest i can find are at commonraildiesels.com at 200 GBP each. Does anyone have any experiences with them? I am wondering how they can sell them at almost half price of everybody else. I freakin' love this forum! Lots of replys and competent people! Thanks again 🙂

I had to send the product number to the dealer and then get a key. It was described in the disc, so could not see it before arrival. So now i need some pirated software, but i can not find any.

More help is needed. I have now received the cable and a disc with software. Everything is fine except for the key i got from the dealer is not working. What do i do? I have v. 14. Thanks again. Regards Henrik

Thanks for reply. I have ordered one now. I have a workshop laptop with Windows xp so that is perfect. I really regret spending 300 GPP om another tester. But that is life. I am so excited to get it and see ud that can shed some light over this annoying error😁

I have different values because they "follow" each other but updates in two different seconds. So the other one follows one second after. I have high temps 5-10 seconds after start. It is so weird. But hey. I want a tester like that. Can you maybe link to one that works as IT should?😁

I tried to disconnect the sensors today. Then they both say 0°C in the tester. No difference in the cars behavior. I also took the ecu out and took it apart to check if there should be a bad connection or soldering. Notting to see. Cleaned it and put it back in. No difference. Any good ideas?

So i just figured out why it is doing it. The two temperature sensors on the picture rises to 749,9 °C. But why are they all up there? They go from 160 to 749,9 in less than ten seconds. Are they both faulty? And does anyone know the part number on them? Thanks again.

There is a maf sensor yes. But that has been changed and is not faulty.

I poked it with my finger and it felt like a little motor was keeping it steady.

But how do i check Them in a different way? I have been looking up into it with the car started and my wife om the throttle. It is never fully open. I doubt that is my problem. It is after the exact same amount of time no matter what.

They are tested. And it starts after 5 seconds. Not minutes. And it is both when the car is moving or steady.

I can't see the throttle body om my tester. Crap. What do I do then?

We have had the original map in it and the error was the same so i think i can rule that one out. I am hearing what you are saying so dont think i am ignoring you☺️ Do you think anything will happen if i remove the flap in the throttle body to test if it could be causing it? The pedal potentiometer is reacting like it should at all times. Was my first suspect in the beginning😏