Hal Mercier

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Hal Mercier last won the day on November 21

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About Hal Mercier

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    Club Member

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  • First Name
    Hal
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Toyota Model
    Aygo Yoshimura TT manual
  • Toyota Year
    2010
  • Location
    Other/NonUK
  • Interests
    Motorsport & Racing

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  1. After reading about 60 something mpg I thought I'd check the real figures on my 2010 base model....it has no onboard computer so no average consumption reading. I filled the tank to brim full, zeroed the trip, and refilled when the gauge display started flashing. It had 673km on the trip, and took 34 litres. This gives 5.05 litres per 100 km, which is 55.93mpg. I wasn't driving it hard, and was expecting better. What figures are reckoned normal?
  2. It's a very badly made bulb which has leaked it's inert gas so air has crept in, and the oxygen in the ordinary air has allowed combustion of the metal filament. Were all the other burned out bulbs from the same batch? This shouldn't be happening...get a decent bulb!
  3. I wonder why the actual amount of oil you are supposed to put in after a change with filter replaced is not mentioned in the owner's manual? I ask, as it's not a great idea to accidentally put too much in......I put about 3.7 quarts in, then ran the engine to fill the filter, and it seemed to be on the full mark....but of course it's almost impossible to actually see new w20 on the stick. How difficult would it be to put the figures in the book? One for 'without filter change', one with.
  4. Meanwhile.... I wanted to do an oilchange. It didn't need it in terms of distance but had the wrong oil in it, and as I have a stock of Amsoil 0W20, which is THE recommended oil for an Aygo engine I thought I'd stick some in. First problem was removing the oil filler cap...which had apparently been fitted by a gorilla on steroids. I had to use a large hammer and a wooden drift and even then it wasn't easy. I reckoned the drain plug would be even worse and I wasn't wrong.....I had to use a 1m tube on the ratchet handle. Then of course I couldn't find my collection of oil filter removal straps, chains, and sockets....somewhere in the unsorted contents of the old 'garage' which was 160m², twice the size of this one. Bought a new strap type. Even this as tight as I could get it, slipped.... Borrowed a cunning tool from a garage guy, a retracting three armed thing. This turned out to be too big but as I'd accidentally left the new Aygo 65mm filter in a car he's repairing it didn't matter. Collected it today, got the old one off with a struggle, using Mole grips on the knob of the strap tool, and so should have it all buttoned up soon. Only two wheels left to paint!
  5. This is a bit of an uphill struggle. I am having to remove each wheel, bring it in the kitchen, give it a scrubbing in the shower room next to the kitchen, let it dry in front of the woodburner as i don't have compressed air in the kitchen and it's way to cold in the barn:garage. It was below zero this morning, and the stove was slow to heat up. Rub each wheel down, using wet'n'dry used wet, and soap. Rinse off. Allow to dry again. Spend a long time getting the tyre masked as well as possible, never as good or as easy as painting naked wheels...in fact if I'm being frank, a PITA. Put wheel face down on a revolving stool in the shower room, so the noxious fumes aren't in the kitchen where I more or less live during cold weather. Primer inside of wheel. Wave a hot air paint stripper around so it stays warm enough to avoid 'blooming', that foggy, matt surface caused by humidity and cold in the air.... When dry, leave till ready for colour coat. Hit it with colour coat, as much as necessary for total coverage and no dry areas. With the heat gun, it's possible to get a gloss surface all over. I can actually paint properly but under the circumstances a rattlecan job is the only way to do this. Best practice is strip the tyres off and take the wheels to be stove enameled, though some people seem to prefer powder-coat. I'm not one of them, I've seen too much bad PC peeling off things. Once it's chipped, water will creep along under the plastic skin....disaster. Stove enamel is very hard, and if it is chipped the water will not get under the rest of it. Damage stays confined. Pity I left the camera at my wife's place. Will take some 'after' shots later.
  6. I live a bit off the beaten track in rural France, and was a bit surprised by the level of noise generated by the Aygosaurus doors. On anything but a near perfect surface (rare off the main roads) they would squeak and click, not exactly rattle, there didn't seem to be any overt play in hinges or catches. It's disproportionally irritating, so I thought I'd try and remedy it today. First, I was pretty sure what was happening was that the rubber door seal was 'picking up' on the paint of the door itself, so that when the door jiggles even minutely up and down, at the trailing edge, the sound of the rubber breaking and making it's hysterisis bond with the door causes this squeaking. Solution is cheap and simple....simply apply some talc! I didn't even bother pulling the trim off the shell, just spread some talc on a tissue and lightly wiped it onto the contacting surface. Second, I used copper grease on the contact points of the body mounted 'staple' which the lock clicks onto. It's easy to see the contact area as it's rubbed shiny. I did the same on the tail hatch. No need to slather it on, just enough to grease the contact zones. The result is I'd say astounding....a 95% improvement! Like driving a Lexus! I also noticed an irritating 'tizz' at some rev point from the plastic sheath that the seatbelt pulls back into. The best way to deal with this involves a special tacky bodyshop product, which you roll into a ball and because it stays tacky and won't harden like glue, when you push the plastic back, and compress the ball slightly, it's prevented from tizzing. Just need to find some. Chewing-gum won't do as it dries out and goes hard and non-sticky.
  7. All fixed now. Code is 068, now ordered locally. Sorry about the slight note of panic.... Thanks John!
  8. Panic over. I'm glad to say I never suspected the seller had done anything naughty, and of course he hadn't. Just that the cold stamped VIN is under the carpet, just ahead of the passenger seat! Also, as has been suggested, on the same side B pillar is a simple sticker, and it's also on that, only no useful info such as 'VIN' or 'PNT CD' So...I think the paint is code #0236 Wrong again, it's 3 digits in this case 068. Now ordered. Whew.....
  9. Hi Kingo, Thanks for the code offer. How do I pm you? Can't see a button! I guarantee this car has no paint code OR VIN PLATE! God knows how it's been getting through the CT (MoT) as by law it should be cold stamped somewhere. There's probably an innocent explanation ie Mme rolled the car just after purchase so it was written off, the guy's more than competent to reshell a car, stupid not to transfer the plate & code though. I'll ring him to see what's going on. I guess you're right, pm keeps my vin private.
  10. Here's the starting point...the 1960s Fiat 500 Abarth.
  11. As above. In my search for the paint code (still unfound) I also didn't notice any VIN code! What's going on? It's almost as if it's been re-shelled and someone forgot this....eyen more curious when you think it went through the CT (MoT) test on Tuesday, where they are supposed to check this plate.
  12. Well. Why should it have no paint code plate, because it doesn't seem to have one in any of the obvious places including around the tailgate. I've never known this before. It's usually either punched into the shell itself or it's on a separate plate that's then welded on somehow. There really doesn't seem to be one, so that means another 100km round trip to get it laser matched! I can't see why it would have no plaque....
  13. Ahhhh "rear pillar" I didn't check that! You mean with the hatch open? I'll check it now....though it's dark, wet and cold out there and there are bats and hooty-owls, salamanders and toads and who knows what else! I can't get it into the barn because I cant get the mountain of junk which is on the floor up onto my newly erected shelving due to my left arm still being knackered from the crash in June. I hope the poor innocent little car isn't afraid of night-stalking beasties. I'm so thankful the sellers fixed those leaks!
  14. Frosty, I looked where you suggested before putting finger to keyboard. No visible plate! It did have a 4 digit 1839 stamped into the underside of the bonnet inner skin....could this be it? I doubt it.... I reckon as this car's spent it's life in a garage, and white in 2 pack is very colour stable unlike the old cellulose, which did indeed have 6 variants on one years Peugeot paint white due to UV degradation across time. Madness. It's not the white pigment that changes, it's the tiny quantities of the several colours that are added that fade. I can get a Duplicolour tin for £11, and as the damage is all on the raised corner pad I'd rather risk it, I just need the wretched code! My paintshop would love to relieve me of 35€ to mix a special brew matched to my paint.....but I delight in making the cheap solutions work!
  15. Change your insurer, or threaten to go somewhere more sensible. Ask them how fitting factory alloy wheels which were offered as an original option can justifiably be a problem. There's far too much brainless petty bureaucracy in some insurance offices, and I know from experience that a lot of the people in these offices don't even bother to familiarise themselves with the detail of the policies. This is OFTEN the case. Ask them to show you the text in the LEAD POLICY (often written by the legal dept of the Norwich Union) defining 'modifications' as I am sure it means wild-***** stuff like fitting a turbo on a normally aspirated car. NOT a factory option. A Norwich Union drafted lead policy will then be marketed by many other names such as Woolwich, Royal Insurance and others, and the frontline grunts know sweet FA about what they are selling you. Remember, it gives them a feeling of importance to say "No!" The idea of this clause is obviously to avoid people fitting dangerous modifications, as you'd expect, perfectly reasonable too....you might ask them for the text on this as applied to factory option alloy wheels, as I'm sure Toyota's lawyers will be fascinated. Are they really suggesting major manufacturers are offering their customers dangerous OE options? Seriously? I can't see why this would be even considered a modification as it's within factory spec. You are, you should point out, merely retroactively exercising your right to select a contemporary factory option . Good luck, it is like dealing with idiots...