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Hal Mercier

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Hal Mercier last won the day on November 21 2019

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  • First Name
    Hal
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Toyota Model
    Aygo Yoshimura TT manual
  • Toyota Year
    2010
  • Location
    Other/NonUK
  • Interests
    Motorsport & Racing

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  1. That's where my water collected. The floor carpet was ice-welded to the left side boot carpet so I think it's left light seal though possibly the boot seal. When things dry out and warm up I'll have a look, meanwhile I dried the floor carpet and the boot interior. The poor Aygo has to sit out in the wet as my 90m² garage is rammed full with car and bike projects.....maybe I'll get it a weatherproof cover till I can clear it a space.
  2. It seems happy with it's new NGK plugs but I'm highly impressed that it was running well enough to give over 60 mpg on what has been politely referred to as 'totally shagged' plugs, a pretty accurate description. In my many decades experience with IC engines I have never seen the like....it speaks volumes for Denso's quality.
  3. Quite so! I bought a one owner car, with full history, but have just changed the plugs and am pretty certain the ones I removed were the originals. Denso K16HR-U11. 10 years and 135,000km! I spent a summer working in a VW concession and they systematically charged for fitting new plugs at every service but NEVER fitted them! I know, as I was working in the parts dept....best DIY.
  4. I had the engine anomaly light come on on Saturday. It had come on before, run on two cylinders, I ordered NGK plugs, then it decided to run properly again. So second time I changed the plugs.....and it still misfired. I did a quick check and it was the #3 coil. Ordered a QH part (25€) which will arrive end of the week but as it's my only running car I got a used Denso coil (another 25€) as it's not a smart idea to run on 2 cylinders. It immediately ran perfectly with the new/used coil but the anomaly light is still lit! Does this need removing on a diagnostic suite or is there a sneaky workaround? Oh yeah....check the plugs! I think they are the originals, 10 years and 135,000 km later. I wonder how many times the owner,(who had it from new) paid to have them changed? What's the plug gap meant to be? These have to be 4mm +
  5. Can you do the bumper vents from inside the boot? I only noticed mine after removing the rear valence plastic panel....
  6. You did well,I'd say. Putting the Yoshimura red stripes on mine was a bit of a pain, the left side needs doing again as it's too high at the back....it's best done when it's not too cold as it was when I put mine on. I did it with a mist sprayer. I've recently discovered a clear, anti UV film from m, which is the best way to stop polycarbonate plastic headlights from going cheesy. When the film itself gets tatty from stone impacts, you simply peel it and put a new bit on.
  7. On a less than smooth surface I use every day the passenger seat rattles irritatingly. Is there a known fix for this, before i take it to bits? If there's someone sitting in it, it's fine.
  8. I didn't dechrome it! All chrome is as was, original. All I did was black around the side glass & pillar, and added the red bits after painting the wheels.
  9. Hmmm. Glad mine's the first iteration then.
  10. I don't even understand a lot of the posts on this. On my 2010 Aygo the 'shelf' seems to be black plastic with a felt-covered upper surface. When I open the hatch the thing is swung up with the string, on the left, and often lifts so high that the recess for the 'hinge pin' lifts clean off the pin. Maybe pushing a bit of black rubber pipe in the pin might help? I have noticed that you need to be careful when fitting the little noose onto the 'T' shaped string end holder on the hatch. If you simply hook the noose over the higher part of the T, it will come off all the time, so hook it around BOTH, which stops this happening. I noticed that my shelf is cracked at the rear, left of centre, but as it's below the felt it isn't very noticeable. I will fix it with a strip of fibreglass bonded on the lower side, which will give it some proper structural support....but only when it stops raining. Fibreglassing is a PITA if it's cold and wet.
  11. Often, if the reading is very low, adding just a few litres isn't enough to 'unstick' the arm with the float on it. Take it out and swerve around a bit to cause the level to slop up and down to unstick it. This is normal, happens on all cars I've had anything to do with.
  12. I've finally finished the Special Lockdown Suspension Change, and I can't say I'm not glad. Pity I destroyed a 12 month old shocker in the process, due to brain fade at the end of a long day. Putting the driver's side back together was so easy....specially compared to the first front I did.... All I need now for 100% peace of mind is a new driveshaft nut on the passenger side. I am impressed with Eibach springs since years back, they are OE on most Lotus cars. It now feels perfectly ok to me, and I'm sure the handling is much improved, though I'm intending to widen the track as well....anyone have a set of 20mm spacers? Here it is 500m from its barn, probably38mm lower at the front, and 30mm rear.
  13. A word of caution to do with rebuilding the front units. This stupid story drags on.... On Sunday I had the right side strut back, in the correct position (so 40mm lower, 30mm on the spring, 10mm because the tongue was properly in the slot) All good! So, with my new skills, I started on the left side. Determined to avoid injury, I used the Autodoc vids as guidance....all went well, infinitely easier, so by late afternoon I was ready to put the strut, with Eibach spring, back in position. Then disaster struck...I was at the stage of tightening the rod nut down onto the step in the piston rod. This involves tightening a 17mm nut, then locking it down to 60Nm, using a hex tip which goes in the hole in the threaded tip of the rod. Something odd happened, I don't know exactly what, but I did not hear the click from the torque wrench, operating in anti-clockwise mode, and stupidly, put too much pressure on it, resulting in a broken rod tip! The treads had a crescent shaped crack and were a bit out of alignment....no chance of getting the nut back on. I tidied the threads with a triangular section mini file, so the thread would go on, but took a lot of effort to turn, even with copper grease. As access to the top nut is awkward, and realising if the thing deteriorated in use, or broke, I'd need to undo the nut, difficult if the hole for the Allen key has lost 50% of it's circumference, , I did the only sensible thing, ordered another strut! My favourite site refused to complete the transaction, so I assumed this was a lazy way of saying they were not operating, and ordered it more expensively from another site (after checking actual transport times) So...car still out of action! No idea when the thing will arrive,optimistic ETA is end of next week.... On checking the car's docs, I think the suspension change last Feb was in fact done by the previous owner, who stripped the DS nut and in error set the ride height to normal + 10mm. I could almost certainly have refitted the original strut, probably it'd have been fine, but would have caused big problems if ever it had to be replaced, but I prefer to be 100% confident that all is as it should be mechanically, as i tend to push the car to the limit on windy roads....hence the lowering/widening in the first place. Ho-hum. Patience is a virtue. ...
  14. One final word on this lowering, I realise that whoever changed the shocks on this car a year ago, apart from somehow stripping the threads on the DS nuts, actually raised the front of the car by about 10mm. How? When they replaced the foot of the shock in the hub carrier, they failed to notice that there is a locating tongue on the brake pipe bracket, welded to the strut. This black tongue is supposed to locate in the crack in the socket of the hub carrier. If it's not in the right position, as mine wasn't, the strut will be 10mm too high in the hub carrier. I didn't realise this till just now on checking that first AutoDoc video....it's shown clearly at 9.43. The tongue locates the strut rotationally so brake pipe and ABS wire are in the right position, also serving to limit the pinch on the foot of the strut. I'll go and correct this now, and drop the front end 10mm in the process.
  15. If all Toyota centres are closed for the duration, looks like eBay is your friend. I need some new driveshaft nuts, and it'd be sensible to replace the drop links to the antiroll bar while I'm at it....I imagine ebay prices are way cheaper too.
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