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JiiN

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Everything posted by JiiN

  1. Did You check both of drive shafts? Car doesn't move if one of them is broken. Gearbox oil change doesn't help at this situation. If gears engage and car doesn't move at all, then I highly doubt problem is with clutch. First You should check clutch/brake reservoir is there any fluid left.
  2. I've noticed that every car brand have same problem to get first gear smoothly when car is rolling. Even brand new ones too. I think that it is normal but if it needs much effort to get, then I would start to check why. Worst have been brand new Ford Transit. Two different brand new Transit had same problem wich I drove daily at job at 2008. It was almost impossible to get first gear if car was rolling even a little bit.
  3. I used ignition coil also when I was installing new ones. Just place spark plug slightly to ignition coil, place spark plug to it's place and give a little twist clockwise and lift ignition coil away. In my case they stayed there and then I tightened those with normal 14mm long socket.
  4. Morjens driftaaja! My car hesitated too at lower rpm and it felt like there was no power at all at low rpm. It stalled at junctions etc very easily (manual). With cold engine that stalling problem didn't happen (higher rpm at idle). I cleaned throttle body and MAP too but it didn't change car behaviour at all and both of those was pretty clean already. I always use 98 octane (5% ethanol) fuel and I've noticed that fuel consumption/price ratio is more reasonable with lower ethanol amount in fuel. I highly recommend to You to change those spark plugs. Mine car had similar issues than Your and car behaviour changed a lot! And I recommend to get new spark plugs at Toyota to get OEM Denso. Motonet etc cheap spare part stores sell also Denso spark plugs but with little haggling You can get almost same price at Toyota and then You can be sure that they really are OEM Denso. Btw, You need 14mm socket with extension (spark plugs) and 10mm socket (ignition coils). Normal longer 14mm socket without that rubber inside is just fine. You can pick those spark plugs out with using ignition coil after loosing those.
  5. Car is alway serviced at Toyota. Spark plugs was bought from Toyota both times. Both was SC16HR11. I threw them to garbage can and didn't realize to take comparison picture but I compared those old and new ones in my hands and that made me so sceptical. Didn't see any diff of them but luckily I believed Toyota service and give a try.
  6. Update to this problem. Spark plugs was driven couple thousand kilometers and Toyota mechanic still recommended to try new spark plugs. I was very sceptical but decide to give a try. Engine behaviour changed a lot! Now my T27 is like it should be! Old spark plugs was very clean, they weren't worn at all and gap was 1,1mm like new ones. Both (new and old ones) are Denso OEM spark plugs. After all: New spark plugs fixed this problem! Thanks everyone!
  7. I found this topic: It looks similar problem and nick highbeam have written about that ECU update. It looks like He live in Finland too but last visit was at forum november 2021.
  8. Hi! Yes that is true. Fuel consumption haven't got any higher and anything else haven't changed so thats why it is really difficult to realize what could do this.
  9. All of refuelings was different stations. In Finland we have 95E10 (10% ethanol) and 98E5 (5%ethanol) and Shell sells V-Power wich is 99 octane. I've always been driven with 98E5. This is so mystery because anything haven't changed (except ofcourse those new parts what I have changed after this problem) but still this issue appears and only with warm engine. Could it be ECU update needed? Local dealership said that they maybe can or maybe can't update this model ECU but it costs about 100€ anyway.
  10. I drive fuel level always pretty low (20-30% at tank) before refueling so I think fuel isn't contaminated. This issue has appeared about 3 refueling interval now. I've been owner this car about 1,5 years now and only some airbag recall have been at this time. Previous owner was older woman and car is serviced at dealership everytime and probably recalls are made (no documents at service manual about recalls).
  11. Throttle body is now cleaned. It was pretty clean already and ignition on it responses to gas pedal very smoothly. So I think that doesn't explain those accelerate-jerks.
  12. I think it hasn't been cleaned. I have to clean that next. Thanks!
  13. I didn't remember to mention that MAF sensor is also cleaned and it didn't help. Car is driven mostly higher speeds than only driving in a city and annual "MOT" test here in Finland includes also exhaust emission test so I think catalytic converter isn't clogged. Mileage is 130 000km (80 000 miles). This problem appeared now when spring came and weather got warmer. This morning was little colder and when engine was colder too I didn't notice problem and car felt normal. Afternoon got warmer and when I drove the engine warm problem appeared again.
  14. What can possible do power loss at low rpm at T27 1.8i? Problem appears with warm engine and usually noticed easiest when driving to intersection and need brisk acceleration after turn. Car also jerks a little bit when I push gas pedal to the floor at low rpm. I know these cars doesn't have torque at all at low rpm but it feels like even that little amount of torque has lost. Spark plugs and air filter is new. I checked vacuum leaks and there is none. I also checked with bluetooth-OBD app that gas pedal is working right. Throttle body position stays still when car jerks. Techstream doesn't give any trouble codes. What could possible do this?
  15. Steal it from reversing light wire? I did that with my previous E12 Corolla.
  16. I'm still thinking worst case scenario when that heavy plate attachment fails and that steel plate drops off at motorway and hits front (or even windscreen) of car wich drives behind You. I live in northern Finland and at winter time we have here so many and so big ice boulders at roads and still I don't see the problem. I renewed those plastic clips at last oil change and they've lasted 12 years before, so if they last even a half of that I'm happy with it.
  17. I think so. Not 100% sure but I'm pretty sure. T27 Avensis radio is so easy to remove and install that I would try. Like I said, those leads only connects navi module to radio so bluetooth is not related to that.
  18. I think those leads gives only possibility to use navi. You can install that headunit also without navi module at all if You want.
  19. https://www.ebay.com/itm/224841979593?hash=item3459a056c9:g:l3EAAOSwSsBiDVWZ
  20. Did You buy head unit and navigation module from same seller? I think flash22 means that cable wich connects head unit and navigation module to each other.
  21. I still recommend to take out current head unit and compare those connectors. But it isn't impossible to get work if for some reason that 28 pin connector doesn't fit. In my case that connector was the only one I needed to solder to car wiring and my car is 2010 and if I remember right, donor car where the "new" head unit came was 2013.
  22. I'm not 100% sure but it looks like there is 28 pin connector at that head unit so it should be plug and play to upgrade navi head unit.
  23. In my case upgrade was much much easier to do when 28 pin connector with short wires was cutted from donor car and included with head unit. It would be much easier to start upgrade if You remove head unit before anything and check which kind wiring You have behind head unit. Mine 2010 T27 didn't have that 28 pin connector originally so it needed to solder to car wiring.
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