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    Corolla Touring Sports 1.8 Excel
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  1. The engine revs are sometimes the car trying to shed excess generated power if the traction battery of full, especially when going down hill. The engine is going round but its being turned by the electric motor.
  2. Found it eventually on the toyota website, nice car. when you go to the manuals section of the website it brings up a 2020 manual so perhaps its not changed much since then. I found the manual here:- https://d24bc9lyrt5en5.cloudfront.net/Customer-Portal-Admin/emanuals/TOYOTA/OM12P64E.pdf Page 118 has the sound settings Still not sure its correct but if it's wrong perhaps have a look on the Toyota website for the manual for your VIN no. https://www.toyota.co.uk/customer/manuals Regards Jeff
  3. Probably just me but I couldn't find a Corolla 2.0 GR sport Touring 2022, however in my 2019 Corolla TS Excel its on the infotainment press the Audio button then on the screen press "sound". This gives the options for Treble Mid Bass, Fader / Balance and Auto Sound leveller. It may be the same for you though may be different with any updates.
  4. Could be a moth as they only come out when it's dark. It happened to me, I disabled the internal ultrasonic detectors as suggested. Once it's left the moth out it didn't happen again.
  5. Tomv There's definitely weight saving on the front passenger footwell (RHD). I've noticed the carpet there is spanning a hollow, almost structural carpet 😅
  6. Mine 2019 Corolla 1.8 TS looks the same. No problems yet, now 3 years old. Doesn't feel smooth like the rest of the paint though. A bit difficult to photo as the suns out so sorry for the quality.
  7. Also check the number plates on the front & back are the same. My father in law picked up his new car years ago and the front and back were 1 digit different. They'd registered multiple cars at the same time and had put the wrong one on the back. Needless to say someone else had the wrong one on the front.
  8. Just looked it up the traction battery is Nickel-Metal hydride battery so is probably 166 cells @ 1.2v each connected in series (199.2v). So 10 cells would give you 12v. I realise you can't take a feed from the traction battery the way things are set up at the moment, the question is why can't it be done. It seems crazy to me that you can have some battery power left in the traction battery, but can't use that to fire up a computer for a couple of minutes to get the engine started and the car back on the road. Obviously if the traction battery is flat as well it won't start the engine, but all the stories I've read is that it's the 12v battery which stops the car from starting, when its recharged, changed or jumped the traction battery still starts the engine. It's like the scenario of starving in the desert surrounded by tinned food but not having a tin opener.
  9. Tony I'd have thought the small amount of power required to run the computer for a minute would hardly deplete the traction battery at all, so it could still then start the engine which would charge the 12v battery and run the computer. However as an alternative why not have a manual overide so that you can use the traction battery to start the engine without the main computer. As soon as the engine is running the computer would boot an all would be back to normal. Another alternative is to bring back the starting handle 😄 (I know that wouldn't work as computers run the engine). A real bonus on my Morris Traveller all those years ago.
  10. Not an answer to the question, but why can't Toyota take a 12v feed from the 400v (or whatever it is) power battery? It's my understanding that all large voltage batteries are just lots of small around 1.2v - 1.5v in series. They could fit an emergency relay button so if the normal battery was flat you could press it and get enough power from the big battery to start the computer which would start the engine then the relay could shut off and you'd be back to normal. If the big battery was flat that obviously wouldn't work either but I thought it'd take a long time to fully discharge that one.. I'm happy to be corrected on this if the idea is total rubbish. Perhaps the big battery goes flat quicker than the small one or something?
  11. I had a moth inside the car, and the alarm went off whenever the street lights came on. Took an age before I spotted it and left it out, no problems after that. Just a thought. I've also locked and unlocked the car when bending down, I try and keep the key in a seperate pocket now
  12. I use a tarp sheet as the previous post, and store it under the floor. I've sewn elastic loops on the end to go over the front headrests and loops on the side to attach to the coat hooks, the dog screen and the gas struts on the boot lid. I've also got velcro sewn on to attach to the tie downs on the floor by the boot entrance to stop the bottom sliding when pushing things in. It works a treat, no damage from lots of DIY stuff. Lockdown had its benefits 😉
  13. Thanks for the suggestion Rosgoe I understand that anything from the phone requires a cable connection which I'm not going to do. I might consider it if it worked via WiFi / Bluetooth and didn't require any button pressing on the phone, but otherwise I'd rather the built in did what it was supposed to do. Regards Jeff
  14. Hi I installed the 2021 v2 nav in Feb as it wasn't done at the service which I thought it would be (it's still the free period). Now the Nav tries to take me on long routes to my destination. My settings are as follows:- DCU 17TDT2EV-DA31 MEU 17TMR2EV-FA10 Audio 1075 Nav 1120 Navdb 2021 v2 I've got the preference set to Fast as I think it always has been. Going to the dealer for my MOT last week it took me in a big loop so I approached the dealer from the opposite direction. I was a bit late in leaving so thought perhaps there was an accident or road works so followed the directions, and arrived just in time rather than 10 minutes early. (its a 20 minute journey). I tried my normal route coming back and there were no roadworks or problems but the Nav still tried to take me the long way around back home. Today I was heading to almost the same place so used the dealer as the input and it again tried to take me a strange route which I ignored. I noticed the road down to the dealer was showing purpleish so perhaps it thinks I can't use it? Though I wasn't going there today. On the way back I said "Go Home" and the nav again tried to take me a strange route which I ignored. At every one of the junctions on the first part of the journey, (its only 7 miles total) it kept telling me to "turn right". As soon as I was 5 miles from home it started saying "turn left" at every junction which I ignored, then 4 miles from home I ignored the last turn left command going straight on and noticed that the time to destination dropped by 13 minutes. On google the whole journey is only 16 minutes. I don't feel I can trust the nav to get me anywhere fast anymore. Anyone having similar problems, or have solutions? It seems as though once its got its initial route, it tries to get you back on that route until there are no other possible options. I'm not sure if shortest or ECO would be options? I tried shortest once and it seemed to try every single track road it could find. I've tried downloading the Nav again to reinstall but as I've already got it, it won't let me download again. It doesn't appear to have any map errors just it's the logic of it's decision making which seems wrong. Regards Jeff
  15. In mine is under setup / voice. I remember the simple days of my volvo which worked as you described. It also muted the radio / music if the nav had something to say 👍
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