m4rkw

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About m4rkw

  • Rank
    New Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Mark
  • Toyota Model
    Harrier
  • Toyota Year
    2006
  • Location
    Surrey

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  1. m4rkw

    Servicing

    Pretty sure they have the junior techs doing stuff like servicing. It's the simplest jobs they have so makes sense for them to start learning on oil changes, filter changes etc. Be grateful they even changed it at all 😄
  2. m4rkw

    Cruise control

    @bmartins do you know what pin 40 is supposed to be? If it's the speed pulse you might be able to determine which pin that's on using an oscilloscope.
  3. @Macscam I'm afraid you've made a very common mistake in your interpretation of errors codes stored in modules. These error codes are almost never a direct indication of a specific fault, they are simply error *conditions*, usually with many possible causes. This is why it's almost always far less expensive to have problems diagnosed by an experienced technician than to simply throw parts at the car. A quick google search reveals at least 4 possible causes: https://www.engine-codes.com/p1155_toyota.html However I wouldn't be surprised if there are other things that could also cause this code to be set. If you bought the sensors from Toyota then the odds are at least the replacement parts you bought are of reasonable quality and probably work, however if they were aftermarket then you can add the possibility of a bad replacement sensor to the list of possible causes. I would strongly suggest taking the car to someone who knows what they're doing and have them diagnose the problem for you even if you intend to fix it yourself. It could be as simple as a short in the wiring to the sensor.
  4. Just got a rav4 for my wife. Do tyre tread depths have to be similar between the front and the rear to avoid damaging the AWD system?
  5. m4rkw

    What a gearbox!

    I've been driving an automatic (lexus) for two and a half years and had forgotten what a nice manual feels like. Yesterday we picked up a lovely 2008 example of a Rav4 for my wife and I really really like the gearbox. I'd love to have a powerful V8 saloon with a gearbox that feels like this.
  6. It's a petrol so thankfully don't need to worry about that! Thanks though. It's also a manual so don't need to worry about transmission fluid changes.
  7. I'm going to view a 2008 rav-4 tomorrow from a private seller. It looks to have been well maintained but other than the obvious HPI check, V5 present, oil level and does everything work etc is there anything rav-specific I should look out for? Luckily with SUVs there's space to get under them and check for any major rust which makes buying a lot easier for the average person! Any tips most appreciated.
  8. m4rkw

    Radio code

    Have you been through all the documentation that came with it? Sensible people would write the code in the back of the manual or the service book.
  9. If it's a rotational whirring kind of sound that slows and disappears a second or two after starting then yeah I'd say the first response is correct - starter not disengaging correctly.
  10. Technically “sealed for life” isn’t a lie, because when the fluid’s all burned up it’s done. It’s just a question of how long you want that life to be.
  11. If you care about the car and plan on keeping it I’d change it. Manufacturers have a vested interest in lower on-paper servicing costs because that helps them sell vehicles. They also have a vested interest in cars making it out of the warranty period but not much further, because then they can sell you a new one. This is why we see them saying transmissions are “sealed for life” and quoting silly engine oil change intervals of 12-15000 miles. Its probably not as necessary on a manual as it would be on an auto but it’s definitely not going to hurt it and is way way way cheaper than having to replace the gearbox at some point.
  12. It's not generally a good idea to let any car get this low on fuel. The fuel acts as a coolant for the fuel pump and also creates head pressure which eases a lot of strain on the pump. It's not uncommon for fuel pumps to go out on cars that have routinely been run low on fuel. That said Toyotas are apparently a bit more resilient to this than some other manufacturers, but I still wouldn't take the risk unnecessarily.
  13. Hi there, if it's an automatic then you definitely want to change it, ideally at 50k and then at 50k intervals thereafter (or sooner if you tow or put the car under a lot of stress for some other reason). Ignore manufacturers telling you it's "sealed for life" - all that means is "it'll probably make it out of the warranty period" which is all they really care about. Those units are technically "sealed for life", because when the fluid's all burned up and the transmission goes out that's the end of it's life. For a manual I don't know if you *need* to change it but it certainly couldn't hurt. Always use the manufacturer specified transmission fluid, never anything else, no additives, and if the place you take it to uses the word "flush", walk away. Make sure it's serviced correctly and that the filter assembly is replaced if it has a replaceable filter. If it doesn't have a replaceable filter then the next best option is a double drain and fill. HTH Mark