Vince88

Believe me I looked, pretty sure us folk in rip-off Britain weren't given one so we could happily shove our cash into the main dealers hands.

Thought I'd provide an update on this So, my car is a 2008 Rav4 t180 and had Bridgestone runflats and TPMS fitted The tyres were removed along with the insert, (great YouTube video on how to do that) and I had standard tyres fitted. The tpms batteries died so I replaced the sensors with Autel MX sensors which are dual band sensors. These were installed by tyre garage. The IDs of the sensors were not compatible so I took the following steps. Note - UK models do not have TPMS reset button. Firstly, I reconnected the pink wire which I had previously used to disable TPMS. Using Autil MaxiTPMS PAD I programmed the sensors in turn with a unique hexadecimal ID. The software predetermined the number of characters needed. It was possible to program the sensors whilst they were on the tyres wheels. Using a mini-vci j2534 and techstream I was able to update the IDs in the ECU to match those from autel above. Potentially I could have simply noted the old hexadecimal IDs and use those to programme the sensors. I then followed the calibration sequence in techstream (tyres were cold but correctly inflated). I was then able to verify the pressure readings using techstream and could verify that the threshold for alarm was a little lower. The light has since gone out and although I have not tried to deflate the car to verify the alarm, and confident it is working correctly. So, in summary, vci cable, autel sensors and autel pad programmer (will be putting this back on eBay) were all that were needed and a bit of patience. Total cost about £140 I think (excluding garage and tyre cost).

Hi Diagnet, Sorry only just seen your message. Yes, I resolved the problem. It was a failed injector. I think it was stuck open. The garage established the problem by looking at the amount of fuel returning to the tank for each injector. I think the faulty one was much lower indicating that it was such open. It cost nearly a grand to fix! I think the injector was £600 but the egr and scv valve replacements were a red herring. Still don't know why the Toyota garage couldn't diagnose the fault for the £75 (discounted) I paid them. The garage I used diagnosed it in about an hour

Hi, Last year I had endless issues with my t180 and eventually resolved with new injector as one was cracked. One year and approx. 5000 miles later there has been bad smell in the car. Inspecting the engine there was some sludge around one injector and it was blowing. I checked the clamp bolt and noticed it was loose. I tightened in to about 25Nm and it improved it but still blowing slightly. So, I intend to return the car to place I had work done as I suspect they did not torque them properly. I would like to know - 1) what is the correct torque dcat 2.2 diesel engine 2) should the seals and bolt be renewed?

Thanks Debrun, I did end up getting the repair done, not sure if it was the right decision but it's done now. Cost me £85 and I expect it will outlast the remainder of the exhaust so content with that for now.

Yes, I have disabled before now when batteries failed. I replaced all four with the recent tyre change hoping to resolve it as I don't carry a spare.

I took the panels off to look. Pretty sure not one here.

Apologies, have not been on this site for a while. Exhaust woes warranted a visit. I still have not resolved this. I used techstream to program the numbers given by the garage but I think the sensors are left 'blank' to be programmed before they can be linked to car. Stupidly I just went to the tyre place too and forgot to ask. I suspect a AutelTPMS programmer is needed.

Reputable exhaust place said there may be a chance to weld it so fingers crossed. He couldn't get the part anyway, which is a bit ominous. Anybody able to confirm a part number?

Hi Avalon, I would like to know if anyone has managed to repair without replacing front-most section. I would like to avoid dealer prices if possible. And whether anyone has even managed to repair the pipe at this point.

Exhaust has sheared at back of central box (see drawing) and from looking online this will mean replacing the whole of the front exhaust including cat which is dealer part and £**** Anyone had a similar failure and know what options are available to me?

Btw, still never found the button. Probably going to need a visit to garage 😞

Still can't see it.

Nope, still can't see it. Anyone got a photo?

Thank you philip4wh, I'll limber up and have a better look tomorrow.