Cyclopse11

I am finding it hard work to check the oil level on the dipstick of my D4D 2010. The side facing the engine is showing just below minimum dot. Side facing radiator is smeared 2 inches above maximum dot. The orange oil light has come on a for just a few seconds on the motorway before I topped it up. Which side do I believe? Thanks Cyclopse

Early 2010 should not have a DPF filter fitted. Should have a 6 rather than a 5 speed box. Therefore motorway cruising is just over 2000 rpm rather than close to 3000 rpm in the 5 speed. The engine will be the 1.4 d4d. Its a great engine and you sometimes see some on eBay for sale that have completed over 200K miles. I am on my second D4D which demonstrates that I like owning them.

My 2006 was starting to surface rust underneath. I put the chemical rust treatment on first to neutralise the rust. Then painted with Hammerite underbody underseal with Waxoil. It is an unpleasant job so I did a bit each day over the summer. Will keep it going for a few more years.

If it was a TPS issue shouldn’t we be seeing code P1121? Have you thought about checking Throttle Position Sensor? First start of the day I could go 5 or even 100 miles with no issue and no limp mode. Stop and on restart would be back in limp mode. More recently permanently stuck in limp with no EML or fault codes.

This explains why you are still having issues, unable to get a new ECU. I know about ECU accessibility, the fuel filter is in the way! I am still having issues too! I had the EGR deleted from the ECU and blanked off just before the cooler but still having issues. I get no error codes or EML but car is stuck in limp mode. Runs great up to 3000 rpm with good turbo boost. But will not rev any further. I am sure we are both suffering the same issue. Is it a faulty ECU or has something broken down causing limp mode? Regards Cyclopse

I did one of these on my driver door recently. Quite straight forward and good guidance onYouTube. Please note you can remove the internal handle once the door panel is removed which makes it easier because there is more space. Unfortunately the electrical motors go bad over time and the electrical operation is then affected.

Its good to be back. My Toyota history is a Yaris mk1 1.3 SR then a Corolla T Sport and now Yaris D4D mk2 pre DPF. I was getting error code P0487 so had the EGR blanked off and professionally mapped out of the ECU. My problem is the car is fine up to 3000rpm but struggles to go above this. No EML and no error codes recorded. The maf sensor has been cleaned and air filter box cleaned out and new air filter fitted. Today I disconnected battery for 15 minutes to totally reset ECU. Tried it tonight by driving to retail outlet and no change. When I returned to car 15 minutes later the power was back and I had full pulling power i.e. revving over 3000rpm easily. Turned round to return home and back to 3000rpm limit again. The car has 87K recorded miles. Any advice what to concentrate on would be most welcome because this is spoiling what is a great car. Many thanks Cyclopse