MrZardoz

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About MrZardoz

  • Rank
    Club Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Daz
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Toyota Model
    Auris Mk1 1.6 vvti
  • Toyota Year
    2008
  • Location
    Lancashire
  • Interests
    Classic Cars
    General Automotive
    Motorsport & Racing
    Car Restoration
    Car Modification
    Travel
    Road Trips
    Food & Drink
    Entertainment
    Computers & Electronics
    Arts & Crafts

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. MrZardoz

    front wipers

    I just go for cheap replacement aero type blades for both my own and my wife’s car. Can’t fault them. Fitted these ones today, easy straight swap.
  2. Not sure, only been a week or so since I did it. Hopefully it should stay looking good for a long while. If it needs redoing there’s enough product for another 3 treatments.
  3. Ha, sorry too. Only just realised now you’ve told me. 😄 Did OP get his wheel sorted I wonder...
  4. Information about the wheel Is usually found moulded on the spokes behind the wheel. Normally just manufacturer, fitment size & country of origin. Never seen a paint code though, sorry, but it might help with narrowing it down.
  5. MrZardoz

    Auris 1.6 Dual VVTi

    Good kit (only £10) for headlight restoration 🙂
  6. I can appreciate that (I’d considered butyl strips too - used on previous cars door seals) but I’d imagine they’d still be removable with little fuss. I think it would be almost impossible to use the foam strips around such a complex shape and keep it gap free. Can’t really see why you’d need to remove them anyway once this is done.
  7. With extra time on my hands and having this problem myself I thought I'd make a How To guide for what appears to be a fairly common issue with the Mk1 Auris. Thankfully it's very cheap and simple to do. I hope this guide makes it easier for other Auris owners. There's a previous guide here that includes how to unclip the boot lining: One more note: On the passenger side make sure you unclip the boot light cable before pulling away the boot liner too far. Ok, once you have access to the rear of the light cluster there are a few things to undo before the cluster can be removed. I found it easiest to remove in this order. A - 2 x 10mm nuts B - Electrical connector for lights C - 2 x blue plastic clips I've read that some people struggled with the blue plastic clips, but I found that if you push in the tabs with your fingers (or small pliers as I had to do on one of mine) and push them inwards it takes little effort. The electrical connector takes a little persuasion. I found wiggling it free from underneath (being very careful around the wiring) with a large flat headed screwdriver worked well. With all these parts released the light cluster can be pulled straight back. as you can see there's a fair amount of rubbish back there. In many parts the foam rubber gasket was slimy where it was failing to do its job properly. The failed gasket just pulls away from the cluster. To give the cluster a good clean I took the bulb housing out. The main part just needs the tabs pushing in as in the pic below to disengage the tabs. The outer bulb just takes a 1/4 turn. Once these are out it's much easier to give everything a good clean up. Ensure it's all dry before the next bit. Get the light housing of the bodywork really clean and dry, paying special attention to the OUTER edge of the large hole. Once clean and dry I went around with clear silicon as neatly as I could. While this was still wet I carefully replaced the light housing. The long 10mm screws really help lining it all back up, there's also a white plastic lug on the side of the bodywork that helps NOTE: Leave the bulb holder out at this stage! With the light cluster back on and tightened up, you'll probably see excess silicon appear on the inside edge. Just wipe this away if so. Then it's just a case of popping the light holders back in and replacing the boot lining. So far my boot has kept bone dry after being tested with the recent storms 🙂
  8. MrZardoz

    Corolla ke70

    Such a tidy Corolla. Do you have pics of the front too?
  9. No problem. Pop the bonnet and visually inspect around the reservoir for trickles / crust from the coolant after you’ve had a good drive about. DONT take the cap off though while the temp is still hot. Fingers crossed for you.
  10. Hmmm another culprit (had it happen on my old Seat TDi) was a loss of coolant once engine was up to temp due to the expansion tank cap not doing its job properly. This left streaks of dried coolant running down from the cap itself. Hopefully it’s something simple and easily replaced.
  11. Might just need the coolant topping up (once it’s all cooled down!). Or is this happening frequently? No crusty residue around expansion tank joints/hoses? Engine temp been ok?
  12. Try and park up over a sheet of plastic. You’ll get a better idea of the liquids colour and be able to smell it too. Could help narrow things down with little effort.
  13. There’s some info in this thread: It’s all a lot of outlay for little gain and in some cases the air filter can actually reduce performance, not to mention the brands like K&N have an oiled filament that can mess up MAF sensors etc. For the money (and what I plan for my 1.6 petrol) is to leave the engine as is and spend only on the handling. Eibach (or H&R) springs, spacers and some decent rubber. Get the most out of what’s there. If you wanted some boy racer noise from the intake, buy a 2nd hand intake cover and drill some holes in it 😄
  14. Another thing that sprang to mind is a loose engine mount. Had a thunking sound on my Leon on start and stop due to the dogbone mount that had worked loose.
  15. Many years ago my wife took my car to a garage as there was a terrible knock each time she took a sharp turn. Mechanic saw nothing untoward. When I met her at home I took the skateboard out of the boot 😄