Jump to content
Do Not Sell My Personal Information


FirstCarFirstYaris

Registered Member
  • Posts

    18
  • Joined

  • Last visited

2 Followers

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Mason
  • Toyota Model
    1.3 Yaris Sr
  • Toyota Year
    2000
  • Location
    Lancashire

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

FirstCarFirstYaris's Achievements

Apprentice

Apprentice (3/14)

  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later

Recent Badges

0

Reputation

  1. I did think it was a bit of a gamble getting the software and considering I won't be keeping the car for too much longer I didn't really want to invest in a scanner. Could you please describe the paper clip test or tell me where I can find more in for as I'm not really sure what I'm looking for.
  2. Thank you I will have a look at techstream. I'm guessing the car shop used one of their scanning tools to identify which abs was faulty? Thanks for the heads up about the front sensor bolts, I have heard this before so have been spraying them with penetrating fluid past few days in case I need to get at them
  3. The last sentence when you say I could check the resistance of each sensor sounds like my next step and your most recent post about the paper clip test sounds a bit beyond my current skill level. My aim is to determine which abs sensor/ ring is not working correctly so testing the resistance of each one should tell me this? Where are the plugs for the rear sensors located so I can check them if I have understood correctly?
  4. I don't have an obd reader or an oscilloscope so unsure if there are any stored codes. Wheel bearings feel fine no play in the wheels that I have noticed or any noise. However, I haven't specifically checked that so will do that today.
  5. Hi people, been a while since I've been on here but I need some help. On my 2000 1.3 sr jap built P1 yaris the abs has been coming on around 70% of the time I press the brakes under normal braking conditions. Pulling the abs fuse in the cabin fuse box has disabled the abs, illuminated the abs warning light and stopped the problem. Trying to find the problem is tested the front abs sensors with the front jacked up and in 4th gear and got 1.3V on the right front and sensor plug and 2.7V on the front right. Hanyes manual says 1.5-2.0V so one is too high and the other too low! Unsure how I can test the rear as the sensor is pressed into the rear hub and i cant trace the connector plug to see wjere it is to trace it. Any ideas? I do not know which wheel the abs is activiating on as i dont know how i would find that out. Thanks for any responses.
  6. Sorry to hear that hope it didn't injure you too badly. If only Toyota made the jacking point closer to the ground!
  7. Thanks for the suggestions guys. I didn't have any big concrete slabs laying around so that wasn't an option. I did however use the hockey puck idea buly cutting slots into bits of wood. I ended up jacking one side up and putting on the spare wheel then jacking the other side up and just leaving it on the jack
  8. Yeah I've been using a hydraulic jack but the jacking point is too high
  9. Hi guys, after buying my mk1 Yaris a month and a half ago I've done a few things to it and done a write up about changing the windscreen washer pump. I've also detailed the car so if anyone is interested I could also do a write up on that. My question is how do you guys jack up the rear of the car to get axle stands under it to take off the wheels? I did the front fine but the jacking point on the rear is too high off the ground to be able to lift the car with it being on the underside of the bumper.
  10. Link for the pump I used, originally shown to me by eygo 👍 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/401951485312
  11. First you need to diagnose the problem. I'm going to assume that the wipers are still working and the only faulty thing is that liquid is not coming out of the nozzles. Get a friend to stand outside the car while you turn on the front then rear washer pumps and get them to listen for a noise (whirring of a motor). Of a noise can be heard then it is most likely a blocked nozzle or pipe. If there is no noise then the pump most likely needs replacing. Toyota parts can run you upwards of £45 so I went with one off eBay for £10. If I remember I will update with how it's held up after a month or so of usage. As a precaution try sticking a needle down the nozzle and dislodging any debris before the next steps are taken as that does not require taking anything apart. Getting to the pump to troubleshoot: • jack up the front offside (drivers side) of the car and replace jack with an axle stand then take your wheel off • there are a combination of clips and bolts holding the wheel arch liner in place. You only need to take the front and middle clips out, not the back ones as you are only folding this back. To take out the clips you need to get a screwdriver between the inner of the two rings and pop that partly out then pop the router ring out and the clip should come out. To get a bolt out just treat it like you would any other bolt. • once the clips and bolts are out, fold back the liner behind the brake rotor and you should have access to the pump (only one pump which controls both front and rear nozzles) • unplug the electrical plug at the top by simply pushing in the little button. Take the pipes off each side • pry the pump out with a screw driver and be ready for the washer liquid to come out • take out the black rubber seal and give it a good clean • reverse this process being careful not to push the rubber seal into the reservoir and you have the option to put some electrical grease on the electrical connections Clearing a blocked nozzle • open the bonnet and put the stand up then use a screwdriver to pop out each of the black clips on the underside of the bonnet. They take a lot of force and unfortunately one of mine broke getting it out. I can not think of another way to do this • take out the foam pad and pull the hoses off the nozzles. I found getting my fingernail behind the hose and pulling it back worked well • use some pliers to compress the clips on the nozzle and then pop it out the top of the bonnet • soak the nozzles in vinegar and give then a good swirl then let them soak for a few hours • dry the nozzles and spray some pressurized air through them both ways with an air compressor or canned compressed air • you can either put the system back together or and test or skip straight to next step but it involves getting to pump which is a more work • get to pump like explained above then spray some pressurized air through the tubes when they are not connected to the nozzle and feel for the air coming out the other end Assemble it all back together remembering to put the hoses and foam behind the hooks at the bottom of the bonnet and you should be sorted. Below is a video on further diagnostic and pictures I took along the way http://imgur.com/gallery/oK1h6FU
  12. Just to clarify, where would I post my write up?
  13. I was planning on doing a write up after I'd finished but forgot to take pics along the way. Thanks I'll do that now while I'm waiting for the part to come!
  14. I just went out and checked it. The rear washer pump is making a noise when I turn it on but no liquid coming out (screen washer is topped up) but the front one does not make a noise when I turn it on. My prediction is there are two separate pumps and the rear one is clogged like you said above and the front one needs replacing. My dad is currently working on the drive but it will be clear by tommorow so I will take oit the wheel and wheel arch and see what the problem is then update you! Thanks
  15. Thank you very much eygo. I will remove the wheel arch to see if it is one pump or two separate ones then choose the appropriate link out of the two you gave me. Do you know of anyone who has had success with eBay washer pumps or is it a stab in the dark?
×
×
  • Create New...




Forums


News


Membership