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AisinW

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AisinW last won the day on July 6 2021

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  • First Name
    John
  • Toyota Model
    Auris TS Hybrid
  • Toyota Year
    2016
  • Location
    Other/Non-UK

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  1. The main fuse will blow up no matter where you stick it if it is on opposite polarity. EVen in classic 1990s car, you can burn down the car. That's why we must make sure using Smart Charger or Smart jump starter that will not deliver current when you charge on opposite polarity.
  2. Because it does not makes sense. 5A is nothing. When you jump start the car, You apply at least 60 Amps in Auris/Prius. DCtoDC converter can deliver up to 120+A
  3. It is 100% Ok. If you can jump start from there with 60Amps to start the car, why 5 A harm it. Fuse box is just bunch of wires, no electronic. Only Relays which are purely mechanical device too. There is nothing to worry on the fuse box. That Fuse box is entirely 12V +, nothing is high voltage. The DC to DC converter connected to 12V battery through fusebox and that's just like the alternator connection to 12V battery. It is rated as high as 100Amps but stil 12V. Nothing is special. That + Post in fuse box is the only Approved place to connect the charger or jump starter to make sure good solid connection. Better than directly to the battery with non flat surface.
  4. Yes, I agree. It is body ECU system related. It is supposed to be free. Call Toyota national costumer service and ask for help to argue with the dealership.
  5. Yes, be careful with Relax Warranty that I decided not to have it. It does not cover common components failures (rubber, bush, shocks, pads, 12V, infotainment, exhaust system, 02 sensor, catalytic converter, etc. It is just money maker for Toyota dealership for its marked up annual maintenance. I only keep the 10-15 years hybrid battery warranty by only pay €30 for annual hybrid system check. I have to pay extra €200 marked up oil change price and additional €200 (brake fluid change) every other year if I compared it with DIY.
  6. There is always charging point under the hood in all Japanese cars. Usually directly from 12V battery or inside a fuse box. The entire fusebox is + terminal, anywhere you can clip is +. In Auris, it is right on the red removable cap. The body is always the - terminal. I often use any bolts or flat bare metal on engines area. If you want long lasting excellent charger, get NOCO5. It is efficient, not hot, excellent compponents (metal switch, 3 optocouplers, large capacitors, cooled and sealed well). Otherwise Lidl or Aldi charger is as good as CTEK5 in term of charging quality and components.
  7. If the battery cannot hold a charge for more than few days, just replace it and save your sanity. Dying degrading battery is not good for your ECU and your health. You can charge directly from the fuse box (+) and negative to any bare metal on the body. The charging speed is practically the same as if you do it from the trunk.
  8. I believe ECU and body ECU is covered under Relax Warranty. The infotainment is not under Relax warranty. You need to disconnect the battery from the car with pulse charge or "plasebo" reconditioning pulse charging. Usually it goes at very high voltage, often above 16 V pulse. It will give you false hope by getting high open voltage but once it is under load or after surface charge removal (1 minute headlights on), the voltage will go back to typical battery 12-12.6V Off, 11.5-12V IGN ON. Just for your information, we have no single measurable capacity gain with pulse charging method when the battery is already degrading. Trickle high voltage desulphation will make a dead battery usable for couple more weeks but will harm normal battery because it cause hydrolisis and you lost some water at the same time as the desulphation is being done. Unfortunately, desulphation does not really work on AGM battery. You can still keep the old battery as long as the battery can hold the charge for 1 week or more, and it can start the car without problem.
  9. My bad. He is in his own then. Sometimes if it is widely known problem, Toyota have campaign for free fix. At least when i was in USA
  10. If your car is not 5 years old/100k miles, you still have hybrid system warranty. Otherwise, you also can activate the relax 10y warranty if you maintained the car in dealership. It could be inverter or hybrid system issue which is expensive to fix. Do it as soon as possible before your warranty is over. You can still beg Toyota head quarter to fix it for free. We know that early 2010-2013 have inverter issues in Prius 3rd. They have identical system
  11. Don't be fooled by tires company who push you changing tires too early. Just use it till 2mm or close to legal limit 1.6mm. Michelin is the only company who suggest to use tires till the end. The performance drop is very gradual and driver knows the characteristics of the car. Not out of sudden 1 or 3 m longer stop like in the propaganda. Just use it, be relax. It still stop just fine even in snowy weather that is very rare in UK. The most important thing is we know how our cars handle the stoping in any weather. Honestly, tires are at their best performance at their 50-80% of their usable life or about 6-4 mm tread. Less noise. There is a clear reason why all government still use 1.6mm as the limit. It just works and safe enough.
  12. From Germany most trusted review ADAC. The road noise of Corolla at 130 Km/h is less than Golf https://www.adac.de/_ext/itr/tests/Autotest/AT5988_VW_Golf_1_5_eTSI_Style_DSG/VW_Golf_1_5_eTSI_Style_DSG.pdf vs https://www.adac.de/_ext/itr/tests/Autotest/AT5923_Toyota_Corolla_Touring_Sports_2_0_Hybrid_Club/Toyota_Corolla_Touring_Sports_2_0_Hybrid_Club.pdf If you are honest and has no prejudice, they both are very close in term of road noise at highway speed. I rent StadtMobil in Germany. Corolla 1.8L is a tad quiter than similar class Leon, Golf, or Focus, and defiinitely better than Skoda counterpart. Go take a look under the body, it is really well coated with accousting paint (rubberized) and a lot of body adhesive. Under the carpet, more than 1/2 of the floors is also coated with bitumen. You can improve the quietness by putting econd Coat Luxury Liner or foam there. The noise mostly from the glass/window that no Toyota has accousting glass. We need to go to certain Lexus for that. Corolla is actually quieter than RAV4 but not as quiet as Camry.
  13. the Second Coat Luxury Liner is the only thing that may improve the quietness. The body (floor and under body) are well coated with tons body adhesive and rubberised paint in Corolla. There are some area that can be filled with foam to further reduce the wind noise but most of the wind noise came from the glass window. Don't waste your money and time in Dynamat, it only add weight in this current Corolla case. It may help in 1990s Corolla, but not post 2010 Corolla
  14. Corolla and Auris 2015-newer has similar degrees of sound proofing. The wheel arch are all coated with rubberized paint. The floor is more than a half are coated with body adhesive. Overall, nothing need to be improved on that parts. The roof and trunk are also pretty well insulated. The engine noise is relatively quiet even at 130km/h or 80mph. The main noise came from the windows/wind. Corolla and most Toyota does not have accousting side windows. The only improvement we can do is putting 2nd stage foam heavy vinyl carpeting to further reduce tires noise. Butyl rubber like dynamat is not needed anymore. Corolla today is much quieter than 20 years ago. The dynamat materials only add weight.
  15. It's cheaper to go fully aftermarket with android auto. Pay professional for installation or get complete pioneer system.
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