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Infiniti

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  • First Name
    Kyle
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Toyota Model
    Auris SR180
  • Toyota Year
    2008
  • Location
    Nottinghamshire
  • Interests
    General Automotive

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  1. Hey! My car was doing this exact thing, actually felt like a lot of oil too! In case you don't know (sorry if you do), it's a rocker cover breather rather than a PCV, the difference is due to the way the fumes are removed I believe, they basically do the same thing in all honesty. The "oil" is made up of the engine blow-by, so it's a mixture of condensation, oil and diesel. But, running a pipe to the floor with a filter is an option, however it is illegal and will fail an MOT, as the rocker cover/ PCV valve is part of the emissions system. Personally, I chose to go down the catch can route, I'd recommend getting your cylinder pressure checked, if it's really really bad, all you're doing is masking a bigger problem, but that's your choice! I went with the cheap basic eBay catch-can, believe it's called Billet Aluminium catch-can, it has some minor baffling in it which is definitely necessary! I have to empty mine about every 4-6 weeks, and the contents are awful! However, I prefer this option than loads of blowby and oil going back through my turbo and intercooler. Some people will definitely claim that the catch can isn't big enough to actually do anything, but based on my experience over the past 9 months, it definitely is helping! For the catch-can, tubing and jubilee clips and a small adaptor I think it cost me around £40, and it will pass an MOT. The more expensive option, sure, but legal and works! - If you need a list of items, the catch can, diameter of the tubing and such things, let me know and I'll compile one for you! I hope this helps!
  2. Hey! The SR180 is a 2.2 diesel, does have a DPF with a 5th injector. However the DPF, as far as I’m aware only actively regenerates when the car is above 2000rpm, and is normally a puff or two of smoke, this was billowing out the whole time I was sat at the lights. It does have an EGR cooler, like a tiny radiator which cools the exhaust gasses before passing through the EGR (I’ve attached a photo of this system).
  3. Hey Tony, Unburnt diesel is possible, definitely, only reason I think it’s not this (Or only this) is because the EGR is sticky, and I’m losing coolant. But who knows! 😂 I just worry that if I take it to a garage, they’re going to assume head gasket without much investigation 😞
  4. Not a huge amount, it’s dropped around half way between full and low within the past unknown number of weeks. Its happening only when the engine is warm, and the quantity makes me think it is very unlikely to just be condensation. Definitely no exhaust gasses in the coolant, gave it a smell after I had driven it and it smelt correct, same with oil! My egr also has sticky soot, which I believe is an indicator of coolant or oil in the egr, but my oil level isn’t changing
  5. Doesn’t happen when cold, other than initial thin condensation. typically when on the 3rd bar of warming up it begins
  6. Hey everyone, I had my exhaust changed on Thursday, and since then I’ve been getting huge amounts of white smoke coming from my exhaust. I don’t believe it’s anything to do with the new exhaust, I believe it’s a coincidence/ the old exhaust was masking the smoke. Doesn’t seem to happen under hard acceleration, happened in neutral at traffic lights, when I lift my foot off the accelerator occasionally and then essentially randomly when I’m driving. The car isn’t overheating, and there is no coolant in my oil (it’s black, needs changing, but isn’t creamy/ milky). But I have and am losing coolant, slowly but it’s happening. I think I realistically need to get a compression test, and a coolant pressure test. Any suggestions/ ideas of other things I need to test/ look into? I’m really hoping it’s not the head gasket, valve stem seals, piston rings or anything like that! I’m beginning to think it’s the EGR cooler? Any help would be hugely appreciated!
  7. Hey again Mario! I second this, one of the other solutions may work for you. They didn't for me, but I'm probably £200 out of pocket. I haven't had my DPF gutted, just living with the smoke. But the only actual option is DPF gutting 😕 Tried endless tank-additives, cleanings and a new injector. It honestly isn't worth pursuing. As long as you get it mapped by someone who knows what they're doing, NOT A MAN WITH A LAPTOP, you should be alright. It is your risk to take, and as of the current MOT it's only a smoke opacity test, no promises for the future though. Without the remap to change fuelling levels, it MAY fail an opacity test, so get it mapped too! Although, under our bonnet we have an opacity plaque, it's on the bonnet its self, with a 0.5 written on it. This is the level for the opacity test, if yours doesn't have this it's actually tested at 2.5 or 1.5, making the test less strict. All of this is subject to change if the MOT regulations are changed again, it's just a case of how long until they do! I hope this helps!
  8. Hey everyone! I've just found out that the resonator on the 2.2/2.0 also contains an oxidation catalytic converter as well as the resonator. Has anyone failed their MOT for having this removed? I was planning on having an exhaust made from DPF back, however this would obviously remove the oxidation cat. My DPF is still intact, and therefore still contains the NSR and DPNR. I'm only wondering, as the MOT states that a removal of any emissions controlling device is a fail, however there would still be two "cats" on the car, is this still a fail? Would an MOT tester even likely notice/ know that the resonator contained an oxidation cat since the DPF will still be in place and intact? I have considered gutting the res, and making it a "dummy box", however I'm having that removed partially for greater ground clearance (damn speed bumps). Any input is appreciated!
  9. Hey, There isn't a way to read fault codes without a reader as far as I'm aware, however readers can be purchased pretty cheap for a standard one. Have you double checked that you plugged the EGR back in? Would it be possible for you to post a video of what the car is/ isn't doing? What did you use to clean the EGR? Did you also clean out the manifold which the EGR sits on? If so, how did you do that?
  10. I sincerely apologise for pulling up an old topic! However I have to ask, has Forte remained functioning for your issue? I believe I'm also suffering with sticky vanes, and I'm just wondering if this is still holding up for you?
  11. Hey everyone! Firstly, thank you for your responses! So I've seen a lot about the Mr Muscle method, however. As Toyota decided to cram a 2.2 engine in a tiny bay, then I decided to purchase one of those cars, getting access to the exhaust side of the turbo is essentially impossible from what I can tell 😞 Unless anyone has a method for getting access to the turbo? I'm more than happy to try the Mr Muscle solution, it seems like it works well for a lot of other people! Just without dropping the engine out of the car, something which I'm definitely not capable of doing, I don't know how I'd ever get access to the turbo 😞 As for going in through the EGR, I saw this on a VAG forum, and definitely liked the idea. But I can't seem to find a comprehensive map of how the EGR, or which side of the EGR even goes to the turbo. I believe the side with the removable metal pipe leads to the EGR cooler, and not the turbo. And the downwards side of the EGR I believe heads towards the turbo and the cylinders, however I don't want to fill this up with Mr Muscle, as I believe it is incredibly corrosive for aluminium? which the Auris' engine block is made of 😞 My only other thought process was to remove the DPF. I considered this, while laying under my car and contemplating my life in 3 degree weather. However, in attempting to search for a map of the engine, which includes turbo and DPF and how they connect, I came up with nothing at all! I assume the turbo exhaust side connects straight into the DPF, and therefore removing the DPF will give me access to the side of the turbo which I need, but I cant actually see this, as from the top, Toyota decided to fit a metal heat shield, blocking all visible access, and from the bottom, the enormous DPF is in the way. If anyone has seen/ has access to this map, or has removed their DPF previously, I would appreciate some indication of how they connect, or if this is even a route worth exploring. I believe to remove the DPF I would only have to take out the driver's side drive shaft, then some wiggling to remove it from the car? During my contemplation of life, underneath my car, I decided to message a few cleaning/ recon companies, however all of them want the turbo removed from the car beforehand. However, as a uni student, who's currently buying a house, and getting married in 60 days. I don't have the money to pay someone to drop the engine, remove the turbo and send it off. As for the boost pressures, I'll have to check tomorrow when I get the car back on the road, it's currently waiting on new brake lines as it failed it's MOT on Friday, and hopefully that will give me some better indication. I've owned the car around 2 years, and it has been like this since I purchased it. It has no fault codes, so I always assumed this was normal behaviour from it. And the previous owner decided that a 2.2 diesel with a DPF and EGR was the perfect car to potter around in Coventry with, which I believe is the reason that the car is full of carbon. @flash22@Phil01 @preperationlaunch
  12. Hey everyone! After a long time with my auris, and many many hours of research, I think I’ve found the cause of my weird boost behaviour. I essentially get no turbo power, until 2k RPM, and it ALL comes in at once, absolutely no turbo “build up” at all. Nothing, then all. Literally like a light switch. I believe, and so do Midlands Turbo, that the variable vanes in the SR180s turbo are probably carbon’d up to hell, hence it not being able to nicely build up its boost. Has anyone cleaned the VNTs before? I don’t believe spraying turbo cleaner into the intake side is going to help, I think it needs to be straight into the turbo. Has anyone done this? How can I even get access to the hot side of the turbo? any help would be amazing!
  13. I have this exact issue! And would it be possible for you to link the videos you have watched? I've been wanting to attempt this job for a while, but I have absolutely no idea where to begin!
  14. Did you by any chance get a photo of the injectors? Did you have to replace them, or did you manage to get them restored?
  15. Hey everyone! Has anyone experienced this noise before? Often when pulling out of a T junction, or going around a roundabout with my steering wheel turned 180 degrees or less I get a repeated tapping or knocking noise. Doesn't happen if I am going very slowly, and gets louder with either a sharper turn, or going faster around the bend. I have recently replaced my control arms, other than the ball joint as the cotter pins were rusted, but the ball joints were in good condition anyway with smooth movement (hence why I decided to leave the cotter pins for a while). I have also replaced my drop links within the last few months too. There is no play in the inner and outer track rod ends, or any other suspension component from what I can tell. The rubber boot on my CV joint is also in good condition, and I have no other symptoms of CV joint failure. Any ideas of what this may be? Thank you!
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