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    Celica GTS
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  1. It idles fine to 2000 RPM on cold starts. Strange it only hesitates on the first acceleration in cold starts. After that first time, it zooms smoothly and strongly. It's not normal because I have other GTSes that zoom strong every time I step on the pedal. New plugs did not solve the problem so I will look into and clean the MAF and the throttle body. If that does not improve I will look into cleaning the fuel injectors. The car has high mileage, so the fuel pump is probably close to giving out.
  2. It's logical. I had a 1989 Camry I4 with distributor cap and rotor, supposed to use resistive plugs, but I put in 4 Platinum plugs so I did not have to replace them often. Apparently Platinum plugs draw higher current so ignition module was stressed and eventually burned out. I ran a set of Iridium plugs in the Celica 2002 GTS for about 200K miles, engine ran smooth and strong, so I never took them out to look at. Recently I investigated a slight hesitation in first start acceleration, found the plugs' wells inundated with oil due to the mechanic forgetting to tighten the 10 bolts o
  3. New BMW and MBZ have LED bars for low/high beams and fog lights. The Celica's OEM low, high beams and fog lights Halogen bulbs are dim, so I bought from eBay and added 1 spot LED beam in the center and 2 flood LED arrays on both sides for fog lights. An off shelf wire harness in eBay connects all 3 bars with a wireless remote control. They draw combined about 9 A, may be hard on the alternator, so I only turn them on occasionally. It works great for driving on dark, rough roads with no or little traffic. Have not seen problems with the electrical system. Potentially you only
  4. Car is in Southern California, warm and dry year round. The alternator inside looks nice, clean, making no noise, so the bearing should be OK. DENSO components last very long time. 2 out of 4 original ignition coils are still working strong after 320K miles. The BOSCH and DELPHI coils are still working after 40K miles. The cheap Chinese knock offs sold in eBay and Amazon usually last less than 20K miles. I buy all electrical parts direct from DENSOAUTOPARTS.COM, authentic parts, reliable, low prices. Would never buy them from eBay or AMAZON. Car is running strong and smooth b
  5. Sorry for any misinformation. That information came from CARSDIRECT.COM. I tried to edit it out but could not. Apparently they are not technically inclined, suggesting charging voltage should be 12 to 12.5 V. Should be 13.5 - 14.5 V to charge the 12.5V battery. In another article they also suggest disconnecting the battery's positive cable while engine idles to check the alternator. That does not make sense.
  6. Took the failed alt home and opened it up. After 320K miles, the 2 brushes had worn down to minimum, not even touching the commutator. It should not even charge at all. I am betting the regulator is still good. Ordered a $6 brush rebuild kit from Starting n Charging in TX via eBay. Will rebuild and test the alt for a spare, just in case it fails again in another 320K miles.
  7. Quick health test alternator in car: Two of the easiest methods to determine if your alternator is dying are the headlight test and the battery test. The headlight test is quick and easy, and should be performed outdoors to ensure that you don't have a carbon monoxide buildup inside your garage. To perform the headlight test, start your car and turn on your headlights. With the vehicle in park, press on the accelerator while a second person observes the headlights. If the headlights flicker, dim or get brighter when the accelerator is pressed down, your alternator may be bad. No change in
  8. In addition to above checks, check oil and coolant for any trace of oil/coolant mix, which may be caused by cracks in head and block caused by overheating. Also do a compression test on all cylinders. Compression should be high and even within 10-20% from each other.
  9. Heater blowing cold air means there was no coolant circulating in the cooling system to heat the heater's core. Coolant must have leaked out, engine was running dry a while and overheated. The car was not accelerating properly because there must have been damages to pistons, cylinders or valves head, such that there was too much friction on moving parts, or not enough compression on 1 or more cylinders to produce power. The engine was already damaged before this lack of acceleration event. Whoever serviced or repaired the cars before this event should be responsible. Unless the en
  10. The car had 320K miles, with high speeds, aggressive driving, 3 times overheating on the road, lots of abuses over the year, with all original electrical accessories, except a few ignition coils and batteries, had never failed and stranded me. This time I was on the freeway for a day time 100-mile weekend trip. About half way into it, the battery light lit up and started flickering intermittently. We had a discussion and decided it was an alternator, not a battery fault. We decided we had enough battery juice to reach the destination and buy another battery, or have AAA quick charge the
  11. Sorry to hear about your problem. I have a 2002 GTS auto with 320K miles, original engine and xmission, still runs smooth and strong. I routinely cruise 90-100 MPH on long trips. the car runs smooth like new, no problem, never broke down once. When was the first time you noticed the car hard starting, runs rough, hesitates, cannot accelerate? That was the point the head gasket was blown, causing low compression in the cylinder(s), leaking coolant, leaving cabin heater's core with no hot coolant to generate heat. Blown head gasket is most likely caused by over heating the engine d
  12. Based on the factory wheel, that looks like a GTS with a 2ZZ engine in it. I have a 2002 GTS auto, same silver color, have 320K miles on it, original engine and auto transmission, still running strong and smooth, trouble free. I used it as a daily driver and long cruises. Still cruise near 100 MPH on long trips. Car is mostly original, with a new DENSO radiator, a few DENSO ignition coils, spark plugs, 1 O2 sensor, 1 Mass Airflow Sensor,. All electronic parts were bought direct from DENSO, cheaper and assured genuine. 1 set engine mounts, a new battery every 4, 5 years, many br
  13. Dont know how strict SMOG regulations are where you live You can replace CAT with a straight pipe with a 14 mm threaded hole for O2 S2. Just add an extension tube to the O2 S2 ECU will think the CAT works wonderfully. If your SMOG techs dont inspect the exhaust for tampering, the car should pass all pollutants test. I just did it.
  14. To help reduce oil consumption, you can dissolve carbon deposit on piston rings and valves' seats by flushing engine oil with MOTOR MEDIC's GUNK ($5 12 Ozs bottle) or similar products. The chemicals would dissolve carbon deposits and sludge so rings and valves would seal better, improving compression and reduce oil escape into cylinders head forming sludge. Excess oil burning would contaminate the CAT, produce pollutants and fail SMOG tests. One fix is to add an extension tube (14 mm) to the O2 sensor 2 behind the CAT to make it less sensitive, fooling the ECU to think the CAT is wo
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