Jump to content
Do Not Sell My Personal Information


Registered Member
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • First Name
  • Toyota Model
    Corolla Verso T180
  • Toyota Year
  • Location

RayOfLeamington's Achievements


Rookie (2/14)

  • Collaborator
  • Reacting Well Rare
  • First Post
  • Conversation Starter
  • One Year In

Recent Badges



  1. All the pairing should be sorted by replacing the multiple ECUs and key with a matched set.. however I'm not sure if my issue is unrelated as the car was pulled apart before I got it back (recovery company tried to hotwire to remove the steering lock)
  2. On some older cars you can add a fuse and new output line into a blank space on a fusebox, but on the Toyota, it's far more effort than benefit. The 12v port is on it's own fuse (Fuse #9 in the body module behind glove box). That's probably a 15A fuse* and this is an ideal choice to run another low power accessory. (*e.g. if the spec says it should be 15A.. and someone previous bodger has put a bigger fuse in, swap it back!) Sorry if I'm not sure on your electrical skill level. Generally fuses protect the wiring and not much more. This is very important as anything can happen that causes more current than the wire can carry safely (equipment fault, wire gets rubbed or cut and contacts something else etc etc.). If you run double the allowed current that the wire will handle (less on a very hot day..) it will gradually get hot and burn through the insulation. It'll keep burning and may burn into other wires or trim plastic and eventually your'e likely to need the fire brigade. Therefore if you've got 20A rated cable and fit a 15A fuse, the fuse should blow before the cable melts. If you want to patch in to a circuit with 15A fuse by adding a 3A rated cable (e.g. if you're adding a <20W device) then add an inline 2A fuse. If you don' know the current (amps) rating of the cable then you can google it from the cable core size and use a conservative value unless you know it's automotive cable (typical automotive cable allows 30+ ambient temp and low heat dissipation to air in case it's bundled or under trim. So - the answer is a choice. For low power stuff like a USB port, you can piggyback on other circuits (the 12v point is a good one for this) but you should either use cable that's rated higher than the fuse value unless the manufacturer of the device states a fuse rating (then see second choice anyway) or add an additional inline fuse to protect the new cable (or the smaller fuse size recommended by the equipment spec) Issues with piggy back.. If you want to run the 15A from the 12v port AND you run more than 20W power to other consumers you're likely to stress the 15A fuse. (not much takes 15A on a cig lighter socket but maybe a tyre pump can be 15A. For >15A there are some very dodgy mains inverters about! (e.g. don't run a 300W+ inverter from a standard vehicle cigarette lighter socket.. some people try and then they swap the 15a fuse for a 30A one. They're asking for smoke and probably worse)
  3. I'm struggling to get my car to wake up - I've lost keys and replaced with a set of ECU & Key from breakers. Question - for anyone helpful or curious! First unlock the car and open the door, Then put the key a few metres away so the car can't read it.. If you put your finger in the key slot (until it clicks like the key is in) and foot on the brake+clutch does anything happen with start button? (e.g. red light - it would be green if the key was good and brake pressed) Does anything happen if you press the start button? I'd love to know if you get any colours back on the start button. I'm wondering if my symptoms are "normal" when it doesn't read the any/correct key ID? Mine seems dead.. despite my key being there, e.g. no accessory mode, nothing on dash (except door open warning if it's open) no colours at all on the start button. The most I get are the ferrule lights for the key holder and start button.. so it appears they have power. The key holder creates a door open warning with the key (buzzer from the clocks), but that happens if I push the key holder with my finger too. I lost my keys, therefore replaced: Steering lock unit, door lock module, clocks, engine ECU, Body ECU, Start button, Smart key holder.. (not yet done the immobiliser ECU as I can't yet locate it 😬) Door (manual) lock with matching manual key and fob matching the ECUs,
  4. depending on how much room you need, it's sometimes possible to get an extra 20 to 30mm by unbolting some of the powertrain mounts and having the engine resting on a trolley jack (obviously with care!). This can also help to clear chassis leg by raising or lowering the lump relative to body. I've not had to do that on my Verso so I can't say if it helps a lot. (but It was definitely needed on my yucky Astra J and I'd learnt that trick many decades ago.)
  5. Hi Unaz, I had injector issues with my 2AD-FHV. These are more expensive (Piezo) however they're similar to other Denso injectors as regards very few places able to get parts to refurb. My only attemp of assistance is to suggest doing what I did. I pulled all the injectors and had them tested. Maybe they could refurb.. it depends on parts, but first you need to find out if they are faulty. I'd recommend https://www.darwendiesels.com/ as this is what they do for a living. They're able to do denso injectors and were the only place that I found in UK capable to test my piezo injectors (therefore they're no lightweights). For testing they clean, then evaluate spray pattern and then run 8 hours cycling to look at flow rate consistency (and leak rate). With mine, one was nOK due to high backflow (scrap) and another was still working but backflow out of spec. I got two from a breakers with 3 month warranty and got them tested also at Darwen. One was also high backflow so I got it refunded based on the test report, and used the good one to replace my scrap one. My issue didn't go away as it turned out not to be injectors (huge carbon build up in manifolds and in combustion chamber + a burnt out DPF brick)
  6. That wasn't the right connector (although it fitted).💔 Having done some google, I can see some immobiliser for sale from online breakers with a cut off harness - they have more wires and different wire colours.
  7. I *STILL* cant find the immobiliser ECU 😞 This has driven me a bit crazy I'm removing random pieces of the car to look behind them. The remote central locking works but I can't get the ignition on (or even accessory mode. I get no lights on the start button (I was expecting a red light to say it's not ok.. or maybe an orange light and accessor mode
  8. Aah.. I found a connector 😞 but no ECU attached. I can't see where the bracket should fit but the mystery is solved. I can only assume that the recovery guy had removed the immobiliser ECU when trying to bypass the steering lock! Thank goodness I've got a replacement ECU set. He didn't leave the immobiliser ECU in the car - which isn't exactly great. ---------------- I've seen various ECU layout pics and they show it at the top of centre in dash. It's NOT there and I'm stumped!
  9. The manual key blade would have worked on the door... It took the recovery guy an hour to get past the deadlocks, which required getting underbonnet. The key itself is fairly well sealed internally (when you 'open it', you then have to remove 4 screws to remove a sealed lid just to get to the battery). I've now received a key + ECU set as the £420+VAT quote was on 3 week lead time and the best quote I had for any other key replacement service with shorter lead time was £500+VAT. I queried the £500+ and they said 'it's because the key is so expensive' - and when I offered to supply a second hand one (ebay £60) they weren't interested. I'm currently 6 ECUs done and 2 moe to g. I'm not looking forward to steering lock non removable bolts... and one ECU is AWOL. I can't find the location of immobiliser ECU 8970-0F010 - the Toyota layout diagrams all show it high up in centre of the dash, and there is nothing there (apart from the skin missing from my hands and whist whilst I groped around)
  10. Is there anyone who can sort this for less than £420? Ideally Warwickshire / Coventry or parts by post? That £420 quote was via AA and includes a 3 week wait for parts from Toyota (I've also seen main dealer quotes between £900 and £1200) Or.. Which ECU's need to be changed if I buy a key/lock & ECUs from a breaker? I've seen ECU sets for ~£120 but do I need to change so many parts?? (some sets for sale have 4,5,6, 7+ modules). <I've done the ECU/Key swap on another car when the engine controller ECU was damaged but that was only 2 ECU + key chip.. Toyota appear to distribute the logic a bit more but I've not found out the bare minimum of parts needed, let alone where to find the parts on the car> I managed to get access into the car despite being deadlocked and have had the car recovered to my drive. Steering lock is on and I am keeping the battery off to avoid the car locking itself. I'll have a look at unbolting the steering lock but often they can't be removed unless they're unlocked. It's high mileage and dented/scratched and full of carbon via EGR/ inlet manifold, so I'm toying with the idea of scrapping but that seems a bit extreme. Top tip - Don't go swimming with your only car key in your pocket.. The key is now somewhere in a lake 🤡
  • Create New...