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Everything posted by Warlizzard

  1. It was sunny today. I spent a lot of time with the car. I took it for a spin and made the wheel lockup. I removed the caliper on both sides and put the wheels back on. Where it stands it's only a few degrees so it can roll for a few meters. After 10-20 minutes it starts to let go and one can hear it happen as well, little by little. I also tried, which the calipers off on both sides to turn the engine on and hit the brakes. About midway through the same error lamp turns on, and the wheel can't be turned by hand at all. Left wheel is a bit hard to turn as well, but not impossible like the right one. I also removed the ABS fuses, which almost solved the problem. After braking one can feel something is stuck, but it's not nearly as stuck as it used to be with the fuses installed. I also put polished the front calipers and the pins, flushed them and put new grease inside and they are really smooth, so the calipers can't the reason for the stickyness either. Is there something that can lockup the front drivechaft like this? I noticed you mentioned differential and i'm guessing this is the "thing" in the middle which makes the chafts turn(?). But wouldn't both chafts lockup if this was the case, or are they independent from each other? Anywho, in a couple of days i'l remove the ABS fuses and drive it to a mechanic since i have absolutley no idea what is going on.
  2. I can remove the entire caliper and it's impossible to turn the wheel and the caliper doesn't get stuck either. I changed the rear Discs, pads and break calipers 4-5 months ago and i aired the break lines. Tire on the affected area isn't more worn than the others either. I have not checked the ABS fuse. This started to happen out of the blue today and not over time. It almost feels like the right drive chaft get's stuck after breaking somehow, but i'm to unexperienced to make a call like this.
  3. After about 20 minutes it loosens up and is "like new". I can drive like normal if i don't press the breaks to hard, however medium to hard breaking causes the lockup and the error in the dashboard. Wouldn't a broken CV joint have a more "permanent" effect to it? I'm going to have a look at the ABS rings in the morning, perhaps this is the reason, tho i think it's wierd it's not causing any breaking vibration while the lockup happens. I've checked the ABS censors, and they look like new, but yeah, i don't really know since i don't have any experience with this spesific issue.
  4. Hello from Norway. What i thought was a worn break caliper turned out to be something i have never experienced before. I replaced the caliper and nothing changed. I took the caliper off and tried with hand power and turn the "Gear Hubs (?)", the thing the disc rests on. After about 20 minutes, what is causing the lockup is letting go a little bit, but after a test run, and if i break, the tire lockup once more and i get the dashboard light warning (see image). What could be the cause of this? Thanks
  5. It's most likley the fifth injector mate, but please make 100% sure on a dealership. Or if you know someone that can read error codes on your car, or even better, buy your own error code reader perhaps. I don't know much about Toyotas, but people say it's easy to figure out if it's the injector if you have error code reader. My dealership, when i first got there told me that this kind of smoking can be caused by the turbo as well when it kicks in. In my case it was the injector, and this is an known sickness for 2011 (ish) Toyotas diesel. There are also ways to overhaul or to puchase overhauled injectors at a cheaper price as well. So there are many options that doesn't cost to much money as well. Good luck with the problem you have mate.
  6. Pricetag at Toyota is about 5-600+ dollars for the part alone converted from my currency. Injectors are located under the head gasket and is a "complex" work if you never done it before. I've heard that there are ways to clean them, but don't trust my words on this since i have never tried this before myselfe. Looks something like this I hope this gives you a guideline atleast. Happy hunting EDIT: These aren't pictures from my car. Just to give you an idea what they look like. 🙂
  7. I'm new to Dab+, since i've always used FM radio. Now i'm getting bored of the same 3 radio stations and i would like some more channels without having to use my phone all the time through the bluetooth. Instead of buying one of these Dab+ reciever thingys that you glue to the dashboard, is it possible to replace the antenna only? Or do i have to rewire cables from the antenna to the stereo with some special dab+ wires? Like i said, i have no idea, and i can't really find much on it when it comes to toyota. All i see are these recievers you buy that you glue to the dashboard and you glue an antenna to the window as well... It looks ugly.. Are there any other way to get dab+ without all these wires, recievers and a second antenna in the window? Greetings from Norway
  8. I have the same problem. My 2011 Avensis t27 2.0 diesel is more like a white/blue smoke (more white than blue) and it only smokes when i accelerate hard at around 1.5-2.0 RPM. Sometimes it doesn't come smoke at all, but most of the times it does when the engine have to work hard. I recieved this issue 4 days ago. Went to Toyota dealership and they told me that it's the 5 injector. They are going to replace it for free since i bought it used 1.5 weeks ago. I don't know how much this costs to fix, since Toyota is going to fix this for me and the bill as well. Ure safe to drive the car if this popped up recently, but in the long run it will clog up. So, have it checked out at a Toyota dealership if you don't know what casues the problem. This will save you time and money in the long run instead of ignoring the issue, and the diagnostics takes like 20 minutes and you got your answer.
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