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Gray86

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Everything posted by Gray86

  1. You can help slow the battery getting to full by using engine braking by pulling the steering wheel paddles to simulate gears. I find using D2/3 downhill provides some engine braking and reduces amount of regen. If you wait for battery to get full on hilly regions you risk overheating your brakes (which are quite small on the Corolla).
  2. Great outcome - and I agree regarding the boot area, it’s very well thought out & plenty of clever features
  3. If the cover was necessary, I’d expect it to have one. . . Funnily enough the Lexus UX with the 2.0 engine has one. I think clearance to the Corolla’s bonnet is part of the reason (low nose means little clearance).
  4. You really have to remove bird poo as quickly as possible before it ruins the clear coat. I keep autoglym bird dropping wipes in the boot (they are great) and use a quick detailer spray and soft micro fibre at home.
  5. Lower cars generally drive better with lower centre of gravity. Ride comfort better too, as extra stiffness needed with SUVs to maintain body control. fuel economy - also much better in lower down cars. the interior space in the Corolla isn’t as good as the RAV4, with the higher roof line & boxy shape. The Corolla TS is a great drive, and rides well with better stability at motorway speeds than the hatch.
  6. I’m surprised you think the materials are better - I’ve had a 2010 Auris hybrid, and the dashboard plastics are hugely better in the Corolla. Soft touch galore in the Corolla. Auris had some quite flimsy plastics in comparison. It was an area Toyota needed to improve on
  7. I’m really pleased with my 2.0 TS estate, for all the reasons you admire it. The big boot has come in handy over the last few months the with house renovations. Fuel economy is better this year than last - despite the E10 petrol. Roof bars carry the bike easily (the low roofline helps to list them up there too). I quite admire the RAV4, for the extra interior space, but the cost to change is just too much
  8. I don’t see why a Corolla couldn’t do the same - same platform & underpinnings, as well as engine (not PHEV battery of course).
  9. My current tank average is 60.3mpg over 300 miles - mainly country lane driving. Very impressed with the 2.0! when I’m back in work next week it will be back into the mid-high 50s no doubt
  10. Toyota themselves call it a transaxle see here: https://newsroom.toyota.eu//services/downloadfile.php?f=2019-toyota-corolla-dpl-en-983710.pdf&uid=647310&hash=21d4b62fa54b6b727c9401ce190281597e9e63ca
  11. I’m not far off 13,000 miles in mine (same spec as yours). I’m seeing over 59mpg on latest tank, despite the E10 fuel, this is better than I was getting last summer (58mpg) on E5
  12. I’d say in summer the 2.0 will do 54-56mpg across the tank with that sort of driving. I’m doing a lot of country lane / A-road driving recently, and seeing around 60mpg out of mine.
  13. GPF (gasoline particulate filter) probably due a regen. Happens on my corolla hybrid, engine running when you wouldn’t expect it to
  14. It all depends on how much control you have over your right foot. If you can ask for consistent rate of acceleration across each driving mode, the MPG should be the same. The driving modes ONLY change the throttle pedal mapping (as well as steering weight, which doesn’t affect consumption)
  15. Something that is missing from this thread is a bit of balance. How about his? There is a place for both the 1.8, AND the 2.0. I own the latter, but have experienced both. The 1.8 is ‘adequate’ and especially suitable for the more sedate driver, who isn’t bothered about performance, and would rather save a few £, and take a more relaxed pace. That’s fine, and probably a majority of Toyota hybrid owners. The 2.0 is has much more torque, and surprising performance - contrary to some beliefs, that is relevant, especially if you drive on the motorway with a few passengers or cargo. The 2.0 is more effortless - you don’t have to dig as deep into the pedal travel, and can accelerate with traffic without even breaching the eco zone, and without the slightest movement on the Rev counter. It circumvents much of the CVT traits that frustrate people. It has a bigger battery, and motor than the 1.8. The bigger battery (alongside dynamic force tech) I’m sure, is why it’s so good on fuel. That’s a big list of benefits over the 1.8. the key here is BOTH engines are relevant, and not one size fits all.
  16. I serviced my Golf R in between dealership servicing, but that was a 2.0 with 300bhp, and I drove it HARD. The oil barely gets dirty in the Corolla, it still looked great at 8,500 miles when I last took it in for a service. I’m pretty sure oil in America isn’t the same quality as we have in Europe, nor is fuel, that’s why AMD proposes more regular oil changes. If TonyHSD can do 200,000 miles with just 10k oil changes, I think the Corolla will be just fine with the Toyota-advised intervals. A good DA polisher, and polish set are a wise investment if you want to have some 1:1 time with your car, rather than troubling your warranty if something goes wrong.
  17. I bought it all from ‘roof box.co.uk’ - easy to build the package of everything required
  18. ^^ THIS. I bought some Cruz aero bars, and Cruz bike carriers. The whole combo bolts together and can be removed from the car & refitted in about 10mins. With the Corolla being quite a low down car, it’s easy to lift bikes on
  19. Some great products there! I too use Bilt Hamber snow foam, but use Collinite 746S or 915 - either of these last a good 6 months, if the paint is prepared properly. Amazing products for the money
  20. The 2.0 sometimes does a slow idle (750ish rpm), usually after a sustained high load run. I suspect it’s to let oil circulate for cooling a bit before shutting down
  21. Yeah it’s carp. . . . Since October last year it thinks I spend at least 23hrs a day (sometimes 40+hrs) of driving within a 24hrs period. . . Go figure. Thankfully it’s only time logging mine doesn’t work properly with. Mileage & fuel economy are alright.
  22. I’ve not seen anything ‘official’, but as Tony said above it’s probably best to charge directly to the battery. That said, I’ve always charged mine via the fuse box ‘live’ port under the bonnet with no issues. It’s a jump start connection, so designed to feed power to the battery. It was this logic that led me to use it. My CTEC smart charger seems happy enough using it
  23. It’s bigger, as is the CVT transaxle
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