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Aygo aygo

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  1. Sit rep:- So Wednesday, my parts came in, and spent pretty much all afternoon and some of the evening piecing the engine back together, taking my time with it as I didn't want to make any mistakes, especially when it came to torque settings for the head bolts, and using a quality TFR gasket sealant for the cam chain and sump, and leaving it overnight to fully set and harden. Yesterday, it was plugged back in the car, and added new oil filter, oil, air filter, spark plugs and coolant. My previous experience with start ups after engine removals is to not connect the coils, and cycle the engine a few times to let the oil coat the inside of the engine and build pressure, then connected the coils, and went for the main start. The relief was when the engine fired up after a short burst on the starter with no throttle, and after much examining, not one leak of oil or water, allowing the engine to just sit there for about 45 mins bleeding the cooling system and waiting for the cooling fan to cut in, then switched it off, and left it overnight to settle. This morning, I've checked all round, and still no leaks, which is brilliant news, so I topped up the oil and water and run it for a further hour, and went for a 30 mile test drive, just to break it in a bit, parked up, let it cool down, checked the levels and all is well and good. Mahoosive thanks again to the legend Flash22 for them links, really couldn't have done this without these. πŸ‘
  2. Forgot to add, yes, this was the one for mine, πŸ˜ŠπŸ‘
  3. Good news!! Toyota came through with the right gaskets, so have spent this afternoon cleaning surfaces and rebuilding, so I'll let the Gasket sealant do their hardening thing overnight, ready to go back in the car tomorrow afternoon. Massive thanks to Flash22 for the links, couldn't have done it without them pointers. πŸ˜ŠπŸ‘
  4. Well, I'll see what I get delivered from Toyota on Wednesday, at least with the old one out, i can compare if it's the right one rather than guessing, and save spending more money and waiting for refunds. πŸ‘
  5. Ah, that's good news, I'll look out for that, nice one, but are they the exact same engine? As especially when it comes to replacement parts, I'm now finding that gasket sets appear to vary alot, even though they are supposed to be oem spec, and specific to my cars number plate, vin, engine code and number. Well I guess I can scrap the idea of any warranties now, as when I bought the car, I took a chance on it with no history, as the last owner claimed they never had either. According to my local Toyota main dealer, even if I had not taken it apart, the warranty was no more, and total cost for them to do the job would be around the eye-watering Β£1200-Β£1500, so I kinda thank my own graces by taking this on myself. So my costly lesson so far here is this:- Forget your local parts stores, as every single gasket set I have looked and compared at varies alot, (even though these fit peugeot CitroΓ«n subaru toyota and John Deere) and the head gaskets are very, very different, and a mandatory 2 day wait for toyota genuine parts at ridonk prices. Gulp!
  6. Now that is very helpful, I'll give it a go, thank you. πŸ‘
  7. Status update... Yes I removed the engine, which seems a little extreme, as last night's frustration of removing the last 2 bolts got the best of me. But, with the engine out on a work bench, I won't be stuck for hours bent over under a bonnet, or cursing that I'm cold, and if it rains, complain that I'm getting wet. I can now see why I had to remove the sump, in order to remove the cam chain cover, as the cam cover have collet locators in it, and that stupid non removable stud at the back, so there was no way it was coming off flush without taking the sump off. As for the 2 pesky sump bolts, the only easy way I could get to them in the end is to remove the clutch assembly and flywheel, as no universal joint on any sockets would either fit in the little hole or down the back of the flywheel so this to me was the only easy but extreme option, but on the plus side, it gave me an opportunity to inspect and clean the clutch plate. Anyways, back to topic, after removing sump, cam cover, timing chain, cams, got to the head bolts, cracking them loose in sequence, to find the cause of the failed head gasket, 1 head bolt that was not tight. So tomorrow's plan? its off to the machine shop to get an inspection done, and see if there is any warping done to the head, and see if the block itself is good. And to think, I only asked if there was a manual.... πŸ˜‚
  8. Actually, I struggled to remove the last 2 sump bolts in situ for hours, so to remove the engine and do it this way saved me time, effort and stress.
  9. I wish it was the same, it has an aluminium sump, which has 2 bolts gearbox side which are impossible to get to through the little plastic inspection hole.
  10. It's done about 40,000, it's ex-fleet, and I'm the 3rd owner, so as I have not had the car from new, the warranty surely does not apply. As for the coolant, I certainly won't be paying the commanding Toyota main dealer prices, so I went to a reputable parts outlet, who supplied me like for like coolant at a discount and reasonably priced named brand, which has all the long life stuff I need.
  11. Anyone else had this problem? It all started about 4 days ago, when I noticed all the coolant had gone from the radiator but the expansion tank was on full. After refilling and starting it up to get rid of air bubbles, I noticed the water was fizzing, and the oil cap and filler was milky, but the oil on the dipstick was clean, so I stupidly put down to the car doing short trips. I purchased a pressure tester, and after pressuring the system, removed the spark plugs in the vain hope of hearing air, it was silent, then manually rotated the engine to find red coolant filling up the plug hole in no2 cylinder as the piston rose to the top. My heart sank! Today, I purchased a complete gasket set, as I thought this is an easyish job, and after removing the rocker cover, realised easyish was an understatement. Next task was to buy a Haynes manual, which turns out to be a complete bust, as the only Aygo manuals available cover from 2005 to 2014, and cannot find for love or money any workshop manual that covers the 1KR engine. So far, I have managed to remove all the sump bolts bar 2 which are within the clutch bellhousing through an inspection hole gearbox side, which are extremely difficult to get to, and the only way I can see of removing the timing chain cover is to remove the sump, so I'm thinking I may have to pull the whole engine block out just to get to these wretched bolts. Am I thinking on the right track here? Or am I flogging myself a dead horse? If be very happy for any info you could give me on this very difficult issue.
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