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Glanza_MK

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Everything posted by Glanza_MK

  1. Thanks for your input lads. Ive now fixed the handbrake. Turns out it was actually my fault! I had overtightened the cable so it was already half actuated on the caliper so when you pull the lever, it was hardly getting any movement. However, the footbrake still isnt sorted. Its still reading a 40% discrepancy and sometimes doesnt even read at all. I have changed the following: Caliper Discs Pads Rubber hose (replaced by braided) Can anyone suggest where I go next? Andrew, how would I go about changing the hoses over? Or do you mean the rubber ones? Cheers John
  2. Evening all, Hope im posting this in the right section. Ive tried other forums for a solution to this but I think I need to try somewhere a bit more 'technical'. Basically, a couple of weeks ago, my 1996 Starlet Glanza V failed its MOT on a rear brake mismatch. The passenger side was putting in 125KG of force while the drivers side was only giving a measly 50-75KG. The handbrake was also not putting in any effort on the drivers side but was fine on the passenger side. Since then, I have rebuilt all 4 calipers. The problem caliper was still having issues so I figured the piston could have become slightly mis-shaped or something. I then moved to buying a whole new caliper unit and replacing the old one. This also had minimum effect on the problem. When changing this, I also changed all of the handbrake cables (the 2 rear and 1 front). Just incase it helps, this is my current brake setup: 3G 10 groove front discs Mintex 1144 front pads Braided lines at the front (still need to change the rear but have got siezed bolts where the metal line meets the rubber) Cusco master cylinder stopper Rebuilt calipers (+ 1 new caliper) New handbrake cables Motul RBF600 fluid When the guys at the garage ive been taking the car to for the MOT put it on the rollers again to see if the problem had been cured, the car jumped off when testing the front brakes but still had the same problem with the rear. Passenger side is fine, foot and handbrake; drivers side is fubared, foot and handbrake. While I was there, the guys took the pads off and showed me that they were just a tad bit glazed. They sanded them down a bit and tried again and there was a very slight improvement. Tonight I have fitted new pads and with the handbrake fully engaged I can still turn the wheel when the car is jacked up. Theres resistance there, but I dont have to put huge amounts of effort to get it to move. The passenger side wheel wont budge. I have got new rear discs from Toyota but unfortunately they ordered me non-abs jobbies so there is no ABS ring on them. Could the discs be the problem? I cannot think of anything else now and I have replaced almost every element of the rear brakes! Im almost certain it wont be a master cylinder problem because the other 3 brakes are spot on! Any help would be greatly appreciated. The cars been off the road for 3 weeks now! Many thanks John
  3. Cheers all! Well they are now on (temporairily!): What do ya think? Shelly, I'll chat to you on MSN about the rims at some point. Not getting rid of them in a hurry as they are back on the car until I get spigot rings and some different tyres for the SSR's. Simon has first refusal though! :P
  4. Cheers guys. For those who dont know, this is how mine currently looks: More pics of it here if your interested: http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=53329 Cheers again! Oh yeah, and Chu's car is a legend!! Shame he had to break it. I got the cusco panhard rod from it! He also got me the front splitter, 3 point front brace and radiator cooling panel. Just a shame I cant afford anything else from him at the moment! :(
  5. Decided quite a while ago that I didnt look the like of my current wheels. So when Simons SSR Type C's came up for sale, I pounced on them! Havent picked them up yet (well, havent actually fully paid for them yet!) but this is what they look like: I think the white on silver with carbon bonnet looks quite good, as below: Comments on a postcard please! :D John
  6. P.S. Couple more that I missed Lol, whys that mate?!
  7. Afternoon all, Cleaned and polished the car over the weekend so went out to take some photos last night and went a little bit nuts with the camera! Tried lots of different angles and things and I think finally I might be getting the hang of this night time photo malarky! Anyway, excuse the number of photos but these are my favorite ones. Comments welcome! On the car and the photography as im looking to improve! And finally, my dash is starting to look like the cockpit of a 747! Still gotta add my ipod kit aswell Apologies for the number of photos again! Let me know what you think Cheers
  8. 14's or 15's. 16's if you really want to go bigger. A nice set of JDM 15's would work well imo. Something like a set of Weds Sports or TOM's. They come up for sale now and again! That sort size will be best for handling.
  9. Standing start the evo will kill you. Rolling start you stand a good chance with 200bhp territory
  10. because being the daft git i am i got some toyota alloys of ebay fondmental ones but there for a celica which they failed to tell me or didnt want to tell me if theres no way i will have to stick them back on ebay Thats what I would do mate. Even if you sell at a loss, itll be better than splashing out megabucks to fit them
  11. Why exactly do you want the 5studs mate? Most wheels are available in nearly all fitments
  12. Do you really think its appropriate to call him a 'total f##king idiot'?? Youre not going to get much help on here going on like that...
  13. The big pipe on the bottom is the main pipe to the BOV so will go to your new one. The small pipe on the top left handside of the standard BOV is the vacuum line. This will connect to your aftermarked one. You can see it connected to the back of mine. The thicker pipe on the top right of the standard BOV is the engine breather. If you buy a specific starlet aftermarket BOV (e.g. HKS or Blitz) then they will come with a small adaptor that allows you to plumb the breather back into the intake. If you dont get a starlet specific one, then most people leave the standard BOV in place as a breather. Hope this helps mate
  14. Your on the limits of the standard intercooler already mate. They are only good to 12psi and youre running about 11.6. So a front mount intercooler is a must. You will also need something to control those injectors. A piggyback would probably be best e.g. a greddy emanage. TBH mate, ive never heard of the CT26 being a direct bolt on. Only one I know of is the CT12 from the twin turbo soarer
  15. They usually go here mate: Its the bullet shaped thing to the bottom left of the rocker cover
  16. Just picked her up from the bodyshop! Im so pleased with how it looks! What d'yall think? Just gotta get my carbon bonnet fitted now :)
  17. Blitz and greddy do very large cooler kits specific for the starlet. You can also get a WickedEP racing one as mentioned above (from sri lanka) which is a fair bit cheaper.
  18. Beautiful example mate, you should be well chuffed! It needs to be lowered though! Is that an RX7 in the background? Looks v.nice aswell!
  19. Yeah, 4EFTE is the only way to go. If moneys no object then you could do something like a 5EFTE hybrid engine or a 4wd 3SGTE conversion from a celica GT4. A 4EFTE is practically a drop in though
  20. The money that you save on engine and insurance will probably be less than it costs for custom mounts etc
  21. Lookin good mate! Needs somethin more at the back though I think, maybe a TTE or Glanza spoiler? Wheels are very nice. Oh, and wind deflectors rule! ;) except when you open the window and they drip all over your arm and the arm rest!
  22. And you cant turn boost off. Mine is an EP91
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