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Everything posted by avensisnz

  1. When I purchased my T27 Avensis, the driver's side wiper blade was smearing a bit on the return stroke. I just assumed the blades were worn, so I replaced them, but that didn't solve the problem. I've now tried three different brands of wiper blade and they all exhibit the same issue: they clear the windscreen perfectly on the upwards stroke, but on the return stroke there's one spot that smears, right near the centre of the driver's side blade in about the bottom third of the wiper's path. It's almost like there's not quite enough pressure being applied at that point. Does anyone else have this issue (I'm wondering if it's a design flaw)? My windscreen is in good condition and perfectly clean (I even used special glass polish on it to see if that would help). The wiper arm is in good condition and seems to be perfectly aligned. The brands of wiper blade I've tried are: Tridon (an Australian OEM parts supplier) - these were on the car when I bought it Some Chinese blades from aliexpress.com Genuine Toyota blades (on the car now) One I haven't tried is Bosch Aerotwin, but I'm doubting another brand will make any difference.
  2. LED DRL bulbs don't work in the Avensis. Many people have tried, including myself.
  3. Do you have trouble engaging any gears besides 5th gear? It sounds like you might need a new clutch slave cylinder.
  4. For the price of one clip from a Toyota dealer you can buy a bag of 20 clips from aliexpress.com.
  5. My 2013 Avensis windscreen has the same issue.
  6. As I said in a previous post, the Toyota dealer diagnosed a faulty Valvematic controller. It's a ridiculously expensive part and because they can't 100% guarantee that's what's causing the idle issue, the dealer I purchased the car from isn't prepared to authorise the repair unless the problem gets worse. I had wondered if it might be a fault with the electronic throttle body. Someone posted about the exact same issue on an Audi forum and how they fixed it: https://www.audiforums.com/forum/audi-a8-10/cold-start-idle-bounce-2-4-times-141756/ Basically, they removed the cover from the throttle body and cleaned the electrical contacts. As simple as that. The only problem for us is the cover on the Toyota throttle body is secured by rivets, so you can't remove it. If you want to take a chance on it, you can order a new throttle body from RockAuto in the USA for a really low price (their international shipping is quite cheap and really fast). The part is common with many Toyotas. Here's a link: https://www.rockauto.com/en/partsearch/?partnum=2203037050 It's super-easy to unbolt the throttle body and install a new one, except for the fact you have to drain the coolant, as there's a coolant line going through the throttle body.
  7. With lots of cars having automatic headlights these days, it's something you'd expect a franchise dealer to always check. I was pleasantly surprised to receive a phone call from the workshop foreman to say he agrees with my theory of what happened and has two brand new headlights on order. Part of me was expecting a legal battle on my hands.
  8. I did some research on the headlight damage, because the glue/solvent theory didn't make sense. What I suspect may have happened is the mechanic who was working on my car put a protective cover over the front of the car and while the engine was running the automatic headlights switched on. Toyota warns against covering the headlights for more than three minutes, because the head build-up will start melting the lens. The fact that the damaged areas are directly in front of both low beam bulbs aligns with this theory. I've emailed the dealer and expect I'll hear back from them on Monday.
  9. Toyota NZ recommends replacing automatic transmission or CVT fluid every 6 years or 90,000km.
  10. This is normal. You won't be able to drain all the fluid, which is why the factory fill is good for 10 years or 150,000km, but after the first replacement it's only good for 5 years or 75,000km (because the new coolant will be partially diluted by the old coolant that was remaining in the engine).
  11. What he said. I test drove my T27 Avensis 1.8 manual in a rural area (because that's where the selling dealer is located), but I live in a city. To this day I regret not buying one with the CVT transmission. Negative points about the manual: The lack of low-down engine torque, plus a big gap in gear ratios between first and second gear, mean the engine can struggle at low speed if you've got a load on board. I struck this with three people on board when taking off up a hill. Like the previous poster said, the clutch has a really high engagement point, which annoys the hell out of me when driving in the city. Unlike a lot of other brands, Toyota CVT transmissions are pretty bulletproof. In New Zealand we have a huge number of Toyota Corolla rental cars with the CVT transmission and they do a huge mileage without any problems.
  12. I forgot to mention, there's another symptom I experience when the engine is warmed up, which I think also points at the Valvematic controller. If the engine is under load, then I depress the clutch pedal, the engine revs briefly shoot up, then drop way down, then return to the correct idle speed.
  13. I hate it when people post an issue on a forum like this and then never post an update with the solution, so here I am again! I decided to take a chance on replacing the MAF sensor, since I found you could order a genuine Denso MAF sensor from rockauto.com for a low price. This is a US website, but Toyotas (like a lot of brands) share a lot of parts across their model ranges. I entered the Toyota part number for the MAF sensor in their search box and it returned the correct part, but with the Denso OEM part number. Anyway, the new MAF sensor made no difference. I assume the problem was masked when unplugging the MAF sensor by the ECU going into some kind of failsafe mode. The next thing I tried was to remove the throttle body and give it a thorough clean. It wasn't in a bad state, but now it's spotless. I then reconnected the battery and left the engine running for about 10 minutes with no electrical load to allow the ECU to go through the idle relearn process. The result of this is the cold idle hunting seemed to stop for a few days, but then it gradually returned. Interesting. At this point I made contact with the selling dealer (I purchased the car from a dealer in another town, about a 90 minute drive away). They authorised me to take the car to my local Toyota dealer for up to one hour of diagnostic time. I left the car with them overnight so they could start it from cold. The service manager called me today to say they think they've identified the fault. They hooked up their diagnostic equipment to the car when they started it and captured the live data. Fortunately they were able to witness the cold idle hunting and the data they captured indicates that at the time of the idle hunting, the Valvematic controller wasn't functioning properly. At this point they called the selling dealer to discuss it further. Unfortunately the selling dealer has declined to replace the Valvematic controller at this stage, because the Toyota dealer can't guarantee this will solve the problem and the cost to replace the part is about NZ$1,800 (900 pounds). I can sympathise with them, because that price is daylight robbery. You could buy an entire second hand engine for that much. I expect I'll be discussing it with them next week, but I'd be quite happy with a second hand Valvematic controller being fitted, if they can find one. To cap it all off, after I got home from the Toyota dealer today, I noticed both my headlights are damaged. It looks like some kind of glue or solvent came into contact with the headlights and has eaten into the plastic. The left one is particularly bad (photo attached). I just hope they accept liability.
  14. 225/45R17 would be 4.9% smaller in diameter than 215/55R17, which may not be legal. 225/50R17 is much closer in diameter, but still 1.5% smaller than the factory size.
  15. I've seen those options on another car I drove, but there's nothing in the dashboard settings menu on the Avensis.
  16. The previous post in this thread was extremely helpful, thank you. I've got three annoying rattles in my dashboard and have finally tracked them all down. The first two were coming from the driver and passenger side air vents. I removed both air vents and found the rattling was caused by the loose fit between the front plastic part that you see on the outside of the dash and the air duct. Just holding it in your hand made a ton of awful plastic creaking sounds. I figured I'd never need to disassemble this part so applied superglue to the plastic clips. No more rattles from the air vents! The third rattle I could have sworn was coming from the plastic trim that surrounds the gauge cluster and I wasted a lot of time applying adhesive foam to different areas around there, but it turns out it's actually coming from the steering wheel cover. I'm assuming the Avensis was involved in the global airbag recall and removing/refitting the airbag created this rattle. It's on my to-do list to remove the steering wheel cover and eliminate the source of this noise. It's just a light buzzing sound, but it drives me insane.
  17. Just an observation really, but I'm amazed that with the generally high spec of the Avensis 'Icon' grade, e.g. auto headlights, auto wipers, auto-dimming rear-view mirror, satellite navigation, it's missing three incredibly basic features, which I find a bit annoying: No mute button on the stereo itself or the steering wheel controls No sunglasses holder No ability to tap the indicator stalk to make it flash three times These are basic features that are standard on almost every car.
  18. I plugged in a USB stick containing music for the first time and was super-annoyed to find the Toyota Touch & Go system seemingly playing all the tracks in random order. The first thing I did was check that the random playback option wasn't selected. Upon further investigation I found it's actually playing all the files on the USB stick in alphabetical order and completely ignoring the folder structure. Let's say you've got a dozen different albums on the USB stick, one album per folder. What I'm seeing is it plays all the tracks from all the folders in alphabetical order, so you end up with what sounds like completely random playback, with it jumping between different artists/albums. Does anyone know of a solution, because this is just stupid?
  19. Depressing the clutch means pushing the clutch pedal down, so the gearbox is disconnected from the engine. It idles perfectly when both cold and hot, except for the RPM bouncing up and down 3-5 times the first time you come to a stop after a cold start. I also find it interesting that it only does it after the ABS self-check. MAF sensors are quite expensive.
  20. I'd already cleaned the MAF sensor and it didn't help. Do you think the fact it idles perfectly without the MAF sensor plugged in points to a faulty MAF sensor? After plugging the MAF sensor back in and disconnecting the battery for a while, the cold idle was back to its old tricks at the next cold start. To clarify what happens: Start the engine from cold and it idles perfectly Drive off and once the vehicle speed reaches about 15km/h you hear a clunk sound as the ABS performs its self-test Only after that, when you depress the clutch pedal does the idle bounce up and down 3-5 times It continues to idle perfectly after that It hardly sounds like it's worth worrying about, but it's clearly not normal.
  21. I've attached the installation guide for the genuine Toyota Avensis towbar kit. On page 21 it shows a factory wiring harness that you simply plug into. Is that not the case? My Avensis came with an after market towbar that was installed by the previous owner. Unfortunately the installer simply threw out the plastic undertray for the rear of the car instead of cutting out the required notches for the towbar. My towbar also has a really long tongue which sticks out about twice as far as a regular towbar. I have no idea why you'd need such a long tongue and it's actually less safe, because it reduces the amount of vertical load the towbar can support (due to increased leverage) and also makes towing less stable, because the tow ball is further away from the rear axle of the car. I've thought about getting the towbar removed, as I never use it, but it looks a bit labour intensive, as you have to remove the bumper and the rear muffler. 769081513_PZ408-T9563-00Avensis_Sedan_Towinghitchfixed_PZ408-T9563-00_AIM_001_266_5.pdf
  22. So I unplugged the MAF sensor before starting the car this morning and the idle speed was rock solid - no bouncing up and down. I don't know whether that indicates the MAF sensor is faulty or whether the ECU was simply running in "open loop" mode with the sensor unplugged. A side effect of unplugging the MAF sensor was the instrument cluster lit up like a Christmas tree with five different warning lights! Plus there was an error message that said "Check parking brake system." When I got home tonight I plugged the MAF sensor back in, but that didn't clear the warnings on the dash (even after turning the ignition off). I had to disconnect the battery to reset everything. I then went through an "idle relearn" procedure I found online, which I'm not actually sure is required on modern Toyotas, but there's no harm in trying. I'll have to wait for the next cold engine start tomorrow morning to see whether it's back to its old tricks or not.
  23. Would a vacuum leak not cause idle speed issues all the time, rather than just for a few seconds after a cold start? Actually, it idles perfectly after a cold start as well. It only does this for a few seconds after you start moving and then depress the clutch and brake to come to a stop, then it idles perfectly until the next cold start.
  24. Hey guys, I've got a 2013 Toyota Avensis with the 1.8 litre petrol engine and manual transmission. After a cold start, the engine idles normally, but after driving off, then shifting to neutral or depressing the clutch, the revs start bouncing up and down. It does this for 10-15 seconds, then idles normally from then on. Note: The air conditioning and lights were turned off, so there was no additional engine load to explain RPM changing. I've done a lot of searching on Google for what the root cause might be. People have suggested it could be a clogged up IAC valve, but I don't think Toyota Valvematic engines have an IAC valve. It could also be a faulty throttle position sensor, but then I'd expect the problem to occur all the time, not just for a few seconds after a cold start. I removed the air intake and checked the throttle body - it's very clean. I cleaned the MAF sensor as a precaution. Some BMW engines exhibited the same problem (from new) and in that case I gather it was resolved with an ECU software update. On the occasions when it was really bad, I didn't have my phone ready to capture it on video, but yesterday I recorded two examples with somewhat minor symptoms and have uploaded them to YouTube:
  25. An update: I contacted a garage close to my workplace with a 4.8 Google star rating. Their workshop manager said that's usually a sign of a very worn clutch. Knowing that the bite point of a hydraulically operated clutch doesn't change as the clutch wears, I crossed them off my list. I decided to have a go myself. Found a good YouTube video that demonstrated what to do - easy as. Just to be sure there wasn't anything unique to the Avensis, I paid 4 euros to access the repair manual at toyota-tech.eu for one hour. So, I got the adjustment done and what a **** of a job it was! I mean, technically it's extremely simple, but you've got to be a !Removed! contortionist to get two spanners in there (one to hold the connecting rod clevis in place while you use the other one to loosen the bolt) and see what you're doing. I ended up with carpet burns on my elbows and a couple of scratches on my hands. I'm sure it would be a lot easier if you could put the car on a hoist to raise it to about chest height and had professional tools. Anyway, I was quite pleased with the result (you only have to adjust it a small amount to improve the clutch feel), but then when I tried to move off to go on a test drive, the electric parking brake wouldn't release automatically (I only use this feature because my driveway is on a slope). That's when I learned that adjusting the clutch pedal requires you to recalibrate the parking brake! Back to toyota-tech.eu to pay for another hour of access, because I didn't read that note the first time. The "clutch engagement learning point" process for the electric parking brake is very strange, but it seems to have worked. You have to be driving at a speed of 50km/h (37mph) or more, downshift from 4th to 3rd gear while not touching the accelerator pedal, then repeat this process four more times. You then come to a stop, apply the parking brake, then move off. You then repeat this a second time, but accelerate off more quickly. "If there is any abnormal feeling, repeat step one 20 times." Glad I didn't have to do that! Interestingly, the factory specs for the clutch pedal height are nearly 2cm lower on LHD cars than RHD cars.
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