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  1. Thanks Konrad. The gearbox is absolutely great apart from this (minor) issue - lovely smooth shifts. The difference between yours and mine is that shift down to first at the end of the road is just not possible for me when cold - too much resistance to get it in at all (although I'm not trying *really* hard - don't want to break anything). After the clutch change I found the biting point was lower and a little sharper too, and also that the force needed to depress the clutch was lower as well. I suppose I could live with it if I have to; it only happens when the car is fully cold and it's not that often I want to shift down to first when crawling. But the problem wasn't there before, and I don't like having to slip the clutch in second to pull away from a crawl when I know I should be able to use first. We'll see later in the year when it's cooler and I take it back.
  2. Thanks for the reply. I had feared it would be something like this. The dealer is still receptive to checking it, this time with me driving to show them the issue. I will probably wait until the autumn when the nights are cooler (on hot mornings now in June the problem doesn't always materialise). It will mean leaving the car with them the afternoon before, and then getting back to the dealer early the following morning to show them the issue after the car has fully cooled overnight. Which is a bit of a faff, but worth it if they can then fix it.
  3. Thanks Konrad. I will try pumping the pedal before the next start from cold. The trouble is (and I might not have made this clear), it shifts into first just fine when the car is stationary - it is only when crawling forward that it won't shift down to first, and then only within a minute or so of starting off. So I can get it into first just fine after starting, but when I get to the give-way at the end of my road, unless I come to a complete stop I cannot shift down from third or fourth into first.
  4. I have a 2015 T27 1.8 petrol with a manual gearbox, that has covered around 50000 miles. When the car is properly cold (e.g. when left overnight on a cool night) it is impossible to shift into first gear when crawling for a couple of minutes after starting off. This can happen when approaching a give way where I can then see it is clear to pull away without needing to come to a complete stop, and therefore want to shift to first from third or fourth so that I can pull out. It shifts into first just fine from a standstill, and will shift into first while crawling a minute or two after starting off, when things have warmed up. The clutch was changed by a Toyota dealer a few months ago, and I don't recall it happening before then (but can't say for sure). I have taken it back to the Totota dealer and explained the situation, but the technician said he could not replicate the problem (I dropped it off the day before and explained it only happens when fully cold). He also said I should not be shifting in to first while moving! They have offered to check it again, with me showing them the issue, which I will probably do. They also said a gearbox oil change might fix it, but they could not guarantee it, which is understandable. Has anybody else experienced anything similar?
  5. Thanks both. I think I'll invest in a bottle of Autoglym Leather Care Balm too.
  6. Does anybody have any recommendations for caring for the leather seats in T27s please? I have a 2015 Icon Business edition, which has leather and alcantara seats, and I want to try and ensure that the leather does not crack over time. The manual just says to use a vacuum cleaner or dilute detergent for cleaning, but I am wondering if it is also worth using something that will help protect the leather over time.
  7. Apologies for the thread resurrection, but I did say I would report back after using super unleaded for a while. Basically I couldn't really tell any difference in performance or fuel economy, so I have switched back to E10, given the 10-15p difference in price per litre.
  8. My estate is a 2015 Icon Business Edition so came with tinted rear windows and I think it looks cool, and is the first car I have owned with them. I do appreciate Catlover's point about it reducing visibility when looking over your shoulder - during the day I find it doesn't make any difference, but at night the reduction in visibility is noticeable, although I am used to it now. For that reason I would not want to add a tint to the front windows.
  9. Looks like plenty of material left on the pads. The discs are certainly worn to some degree, but the way to check if fully worn is with a micrometer and compare to minimum width specified in the service manual (somebody on here may well know what the values are). If you are doing the work yourself (or using an independent garage) I would go with a reputable aftermarket manufacturer such as the ones you mention. The Toyota branded ones will almost certainly be sourced from one of them anyway, so why pay more?! However, given the young age of your car, are you not taking advantage of the Toyota Relax warranty scheme (where you get one year's warranty after each dealer service)? If so, I would pay the extra and get a Toyota dealer to do the work (if you start doing the work yourself, or have an independent do it, you may have difficulty with a future warranty claim).
  10. I can recommend the Nextbase 380GWX front and rear dashcam that Toyota dealers supply and fit for £350. Probably not the cheapest, but the video quality is excellent, the units (front and rear) are very small indeed, and there is peace of mind having it fitted by a Toyota dealer. I think they also supply and fit the front dashcam only for £250, but I wanted the extra peace of mind of a rear unit as well.
  11. You could try to get back to where you were before you started changing things. Check the old bulbs have not blown (using a multimeter for example), and check the fuse has not blown. It could be there was an issue with the new LED bulbs that caused the fuse to blow.
  12. There was a minor facelift in 2012, the most obvious features of which are the headlights and radiator grill. It was not very extensive, so it is possible that the rear bumper design did not change, but I do not know for sure.
  13. Only marginally, sadly. Like a lot of these things, they want to make them overly pretty and animated, which is too much for the electronics to handle. I still find it useful though when I do need GPS assistance. I prefer it to having a phone or satnav stuck to the windscreen or elsewhere, which can block a view, have cables trailed around and must be removed from view to prevent thieves. I guess my next car will have Android Auto, so then I'll have the best of both worlds (my last car did not have built in GPS, so like others above I used Waze on my phone in a cradle).
  14. I have a slightly older Avensis, a 2015 pre-second facelift model with the Touch 2 Go multimedia system. I decided I didn't really need the data connection for the fuel prices etc. because I would not really use it. However I did want to update the software and maps when I bought the car last summer (they had not been updated since new). Are you sure it is going to cost you a few hundred Pounds to do that? It cost me £119 for a three year software and map update subscription which I have used twice so far (once to upgrade to the spring 2021 release, and then again to the autumn 2021 release). I hope the price has not been increased to several hundred Pounds for you 😞
  15. The OP mentioned that the water got into the EPB via the boot. That suggests that the rubber seal over the manual parking brake release hole in the boot is missing or damaged. The seal needs to be removed or broken through to use the manual release tool if the EPB will not release electronically. After describing that process, the manual then goes on to say: So the OP may want to check the seal and replace if required, to prevent it happening again.
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