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Cessna

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Everything posted by Cessna

  1. Thanks Konrad. The gearbox is absolutely great apart from this (minor) issue - lovely smooth shifts. The difference between yours and mine is that shift down to first at the end of the road is just not possible for me when cold - too much resistance to get it in at all (although I'm not trying *really* hard - don't want to break anything). After the clutch change I found the biting point was lower and a little sharper too, and also that the force needed to depress the clutch was lower as well. I suppose I could live with it if I have to; it only happens when the car is fully cold and it's not that often I want to shift down to first when crawling. But the problem wasn't there before, and I don't like having to slip the clutch in second to pull away from a crawl when I know I should be able to use first. We'll see later in the year when it's cooler and I take it back.
  2. Thanks for the reply. I had feared it would be something like this. The dealer is still receptive to checking it, this time with me driving to show them the issue. I will probably wait until the autumn when the nights are cooler (on hot mornings now in June the problem doesn't always materialise). It will mean leaving the car with them the afternoon before, and then getting back to the dealer early the following morning to show them the issue after the car has fully cooled overnight. Which is a bit of a faff, but worth it if they can then fix it.
  3. Thanks Konrad. I will try pumping the pedal before the next start from cold. The trouble is (and I might not have made this clear), it shifts into first just fine when the car is stationary - it is only when crawling forward that it won't shift down to first, and then only within a minute or so of starting off. So I can get it into first just fine after starting, but when I get to the give-way at the end of my road, unless I come to a complete stop I cannot shift down from third or fourth into first.
  4. I have a 2015 T27 1.8 petrol with a manual gearbox, that has covered around 50000 miles. When the car is properly cold (e.g. when left overnight on a cool night) it is impossible to shift into first gear when crawling for a couple of minutes after starting off. This can happen when approaching a give way where I can then see it is clear to pull away without needing to come to a complete stop, and therefore want to shift to first from third or fourth so that I can pull out. It shifts into first just fine from a standstill, and will shift into first while crawling a minute or two after starting off, when things have warmed up. The clutch was changed by a Toyota dealer a few months ago, and I don't recall it happening before then (but can't say for sure). I have taken it back to the Totota dealer and explained the situation, but the technician said he could not replicate the problem (I dropped it off the day before and explained it only happens when fully cold). He also said I should not be shifting in to first while moving! They have offered to check it again, with me showing them the issue, which I will probably do. They also said a gearbox oil change might fix it, but they could not guarantee it, which is understandable. Has anybody else experienced anything similar?
  5. Thanks both. I think I'll invest in a bottle of Autoglym Leather Care Balm too.
  6. Does anybody have any recommendations for caring for the leather seats in T27s please? I have a 2015 Icon Business edition, which has leather and alcantara seats, and I want to try and ensure that the leather does not crack over time. The manual just says to use a vacuum cleaner or dilute detergent for cleaning, but I am wondering if it is also worth using something that will help protect the leather over time.
  7. Apologies for the thread resurrection, but I did say I would report back after using super unleaded for a while. Basically I couldn't really tell any difference in performance or fuel economy, so I have switched back to E10, given the 10-15p difference in price per litre.
  8. My estate is a 2015 Icon Business Edition so came with tinted rear windows and I think it looks cool, and is the first car I have owned with them. I do appreciate Catlover's point about it reducing visibility when looking over your shoulder - during the day I find it doesn't make any difference, but at night the reduction in visibility is noticeable, although I am used to it now. For that reason I would not want to add a tint to the front windows.
  9. Looks like plenty of material left on the pads. The discs are certainly worn to some degree, but the way to check if fully worn is with a micrometer and compare to minimum width specified in the service manual (somebody on here may well know what the values are). If you are doing the work yourself (or using an independent garage) I would go with a reputable aftermarket manufacturer such as the ones you mention. The Toyota branded ones will almost certainly be sourced from one of them anyway, so why pay more?! However, given the young age of your car, are you not taking advantage of the Toyota Relax warranty scheme (where you get one year's warranty after each dealer service)? If so, I would pay the extra and get a Toyota dealer to do the work (if you start doing the work yourself, or have an independent do it, you may have difficulty with a future warranty claim).
  10. I can recommend the Nextbase 380GWX front and rear dashcam that Toyota dealers supply and fit for £350. Probably not the cheapest, but the video quality is excellent, the units (front and rear) are very small indeed, and there is peace of mind having it fitted by a Toyota dealer. I think they also supply and fit the front dashcam only for £250, but I wanted the extra peace of mind of a rear unit as well.
  11. You could try to get back to where you were before you started changing things. Check the old bulbs have not blown (using a multimeter for example), and check the fuse has not blown. It could be there was an issue with the new LED bulbs that caused the fuse to blow.
  12. There was a minor facelift in 2012, the most obvious features of which are the headlights and radiator grill. It was not very extensive, so it is possible that the rear bumper design did not change, but I do not know for sure.
  13. Only marginally, sadly. Like a lot of these things, they want to make them overly pretty and animated, which is too much for the electronics to handle. I still find it useful though when I do need GPS assistance. I prefer it to having a phone or satnav stuck to the windscreen or elsewhere, which can block a view, have cables trailed around and must be removed from view to prevent thieves. I guess my next car will have Android Auto, so then I'll have the best of both worlds (my last car did not have built in GPS, so like others above I used Waze on my phone in a cradle).
  14. I have a slightly older Avensis, a 2015 pre-second facelift model with the Touch 2 Go multimedia system. I decided I didn't really need the data connection for the fuel prices etc. because I would not really use it. However I did want to update the software and maps when I bought the car last summer (they had not been updated since new). Are you sure it is going to cost you a few hundred Pounds to do that? It cost me £119 for a three year software and map update subscription which I have used twice so far (once to upgrade to the spring 2021 release, and then again to the autumn 2021 release). I hope the price has not been increased to several hundred Pounds for you 😞
  15. The OP mentioned that the water got into the EPB via the boot. That suggests that the rubber seal over the manual parking brake release hole in the boot is missing or damaged. The seal needs to be removed or broken through to use the manual release tool if the EPB will not release electronically. After describing that process, the manual then goes on to say: So the OP may want to check the seal and replace if required, to prevent it happening again.
  16. There is a manual process for releasing the handbrake that involves removing a bung in the boot floor and using a tool supplied with the car to turn the mechanism by hand. Be warned though, the handbook advises approx 600 revolutions required, which takes approx 20 minutes.
  17. Again from the manual for the Touch 2 Go in my 2015 Avensis, the supported file systems are FAT16 and FAT32 only.
  18. I have a Touch 2 Go in my 2015 Avensis. The manual states the following file system limitations for USB devices: File per folder: 255 max Files on the device: 9999 max Folders on the device: 3000 max
  19. I don't think that is true. I had a 2 litre Primera with a CVT and my experience with it, and opinion on the owners' club website was very positive. They key thing was to change the fluid at the correct intervals (for the reasons you gave in your post). If that is done on Nissan CVTs they are bullet proof, and I am guessing the situation is the same with Toyotas (thankfully I have a manual box in my Avensis - I prefer to be in control!)
  20. I've decided to try super unleaded for a while, to see if I can notice any improvement in performance or fuel economy. Does anyone know if the car will make use of the extra performance available? I remember when 95 octane fuel became common that some old cars required the ignition to be retarded a little so they ran properly on it, and that some more modern cars can automatically adjust the timing and other engine operations to make best use of whatever octane fuel is used. So I was wondering if the T27 with a 1.8 Valvematic can do so, or if I am completely wasting my time and money (with super unleaded seemingly ~10p more expensive per litre). I've just filled up with super unleaded and a couple of long journeys to make soon, so I will report back what (if anything) I notice that is different.
  21. Are you sure you are operating the level correctly? Sorry if that is asking the obvious, it is just that I am a couple of cm taller than you and I actually prefer not having the seat at its lowest setting (2015 T27). So that perhaps suggests that you have not set the seat as low as it can go.
  22. Probably no help to you now, but I disagree that you "didn't have a leg to stand on" when the "well known national fast fit tyre/brake company" said "there must be a problem with the car when I originally brought it in". If there was a problem before they started work then they should have informed you before doing so. They did not, so it is pretty obvious there was no fault at that point. IANAL, but if this had gone to a small claims court hearing I'm sure you would have won. Although it almost certainly wouldn't have got that far, because they would have settled before it got there. Given the timescale I guess you would find it difficult to pursue now, but I thought I would mention it for anybody else who finds themselves in a similar appalling situation. Good luck with getting it sorted, it would be a shame to have to sell the car because of this.
  23. Do this to get the activation code Gabriela: Login to My Toyota and go to the Toyota eStore at https://www.toyota.co.uk/tme#/my-toyota/eStore Click on "Purchases" in the menu near the top of the screen. Under "Active", click on "Map update 6.18.0L..." or similar, which will expand to show more information. The activation code is on the fourth line down and will probably consist of four blocks of four characters (for example ABC1-2233-XYZ4-M7M7). There's a little "i" in a circle, and if you click on that it should confirm that it is the activation code and you need to use it when updating the system.
  24. My car is an early 2015 tourer. When I bought it in July no map or software updates had ever been installed. It definitely had a bug in that it would sort of freeze when entering some postcodes, but not others. It was not happy with London postcodes starting with E or W, but ok with Birmingham and Manchester ones. There may have been others, but those are the ones I tested. You could type the E or W followed by the first digit, but then it would sit there with all the letters and numbers greyed out. That was fixed when I installed 6.17.0L, and the user interface received a significant overhaul too.
  25. It is both software and maps, but the software appears identical (same file sizes and no change to interface once installed) to the spring release (6.17.0L). I bought my car in July this year, and then bought the "3 year map care and services" from the My Toyota website (£119 back then) to update the software and maps, and give me 3 years of future map updates. I downloaded 6.18.0L earlier this week (thanks for the heads-up Heidfirst) and installed it. It's pretty easy to do yourself using a USB flash drive, but you can ask a dealer (and presumably pay them) if you wish.
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