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Vandals01

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Everything posted by Vandals01

  1. Vandals01

    Oil Change

    9600 isn't low. Toyota recommends 10'000 miles or 1 year whichever comes first. However! 1. Long idle (stuck in traffic while the engine is on). 2. Lots of short trips (many engine start and stop). 3. Dusty environment All of the 3 points above shortens the useful life of the engine oil. And when the oil no longer provide adequate protection, you may encounter: 1. Stretched (worn) Timing Chain - lead to valves problem. If the timing is really off, it may damage the engine to the point that you'll need to replace it. 2. Seize up oil control ring around the Piston (primary cause for excessive oil consumption) - which many lead to oil starvation, seize engine or clogged Catalytic converter. So as a general rule: Engine oil is cheap (it cost me £15 for each oil and oil filter change). Replace Engine is expensive - second hand engine is £240~ without labour (then you'll need to pay a garage to certify the engine has been installed properly). So always replace the oil at regular interval. Question then is how often? If you do mostly motorway driving, you can stick to the recommended 10K or Annually. However, if you do a lot of short trips like me (Food delivery driver), I would say 5K - 6.5K miles per oil change. There are lots of video on YouTube teach you how to change the oil and oil filter. And the good thing about Aygo is: You do not need to jack the car up to change the oil. (I just reach it from underneath then use a low profile oil drain pan - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-15086-Fluid-Drain-Capacity/dp/B01LYRI5BN/ )
  2. Have a look on Amazon, I bought 2 during the Pandemic (one did not arrived on time and it was already too late to cancelled), both of them works. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0012U5BO2/ <- Sold it to a friend, slow on charging (1.5 Amp) . Can also be used as a maintainer (Just let it stay hooked to the main and battery if you don't use the car for a while.) https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0012EDZ7I <- The one I kept. (8 Amp)
  3. I did a bit of research on this: 1. You do not need any ISO wiring harness for this. The stuff comes with your NEW head unit will be enough. If you bought some cheap Head Unit, you might have to cut the existing cables to back of the stock unit and attach the cable one by one. In this case, it is a good idea to buy additional wiring with plugs (unless you are willing to cut and solder to the original cables in the car). 2. The wires on the back of the stock head unit comes in 3 sets of plugs: One for Radio signal (which you'll probably have to buy an adapter), One for Speakers and one for Power/Memory/Ground. Don't worry, they only fit in one way. So you can't mix them up. 3. In order to fit a double din, you might have to CUT away some plastics. (see the video below) 4. The most important thing is the size of the double din. Most double din fascia can only accommodate head unit with a maximum size of 178mm by 102mm. So if you bought something bigger? Good luck.
  4. If it stays on after the hand-brake is fully released, it could be: 1. The switch on the handbrake is faulty or 2. Your car is running low on brake fluid
  5. To my surprise, my first E10 tank gives 60.47 MPG (406.2 Miles, 30.537 Litres using BP). It is about the same as I would get with E5. To be fair, there are error factors into this: 1. How fill was the tank before? (was it filled to the top of the neck) 2. How fill was the tank on the second fill-up? (same position as last time? or slightly lower?) To get a more precise number, it would be a good idea to work out an average say 5 or 10 fill ups using E10. However, my car having done 5000 miles is due for an oil change. This time, I'm using 0w20 (previously 5w30) will likely to distort the MPG figure. Possibility push it higher than before...
  6. Personally, I'm never been a fan of German Cars: 1. Over-engineered and filled the car with unnecessary modules. 2. Over use of plastic in Engine bay 3. Required a number of special tools to work on them. 4. Expensive maintenance cost. As they age, they are usually a money pit. E.g: more modules to replace, crack plastic on engine components etc. VW in particular usually have broken door handles and broken electrical wires going into doors. And if you don't know about the broken wires, it can cost you a lot of money if you take it to a greedy garage. Hyundai i10 is driven by a friend of mine. Fuel consumption is the biggest problem on his 2014 1.2 automatic, with MPG between 30 to 35 in Urban driving (Compared to mine 58-60). The works I've carried out on his car: 1. Replace the car battery at 2019 (yes, just 4-5 year since it has been on the road). 2. Windows doesn't roll up properly - Lubricate the window seal with silicone grease. 3. Melted cigarette socket - could be his fault as he was using some Chinese heated seat. 4. Replace Auxiliary Drive Belt - at 60K not only the belt is all cracked up, It turn itself from a 5PK1236 to a 4PK1236 (inner rib just disintegrated). The belt is a stretch fit in the MK2. Unlike MK1 where the alternator acts as a Tensioner. 5. New brake pads every year. Disc every 2 year. Over-all is not that bad. Sure there is a bit of quality issue here and there, but not too expensive to fix. But the low MPG figure is definitely a concern for some people. Even the manual 1.0 version, we are looking at 40-50 in Urban, 50 to 60 in Highway. Almost forgot: The biggest issue was stripped thread on a brake caliper pin. Some idiot works in the Hyundai dealership use an impact to tighten the caliper pin bolt and completely strips the thread. Took us a bit of work to find a pin for that caliper since the only option at the dealer was to replace the entire thing. (Both pins on the driver side. Passenger side was close to stripping, but lucky it didn't).
  7. I've installed one of them (HAAS) on a 03 Renault Clio, The owner of that car sold it after a year. Put it this way: Been fine for a year at least. Search result from google gives one or two bad cases. Consider EuroCarParts sold numerous of them, 1 or 2 cases might not be that bad.
  8. Personally, I would go for Denso or NGK. Next would be Bosch. FAE & HAAS would be 4 & 5 th. NEVER on eBay when it comes to O2 Sensor.
  9. Indicator bulb is probably the only one that I would NOT touch. Why? The blinking speed is determined by the resistance of the bulbs. By changing them to LED will make the relays go haywire, acting as if the bulbs were blown. There are two way to counter this: 1. Adding a resistor parallel to the circuit. But not any resistor, as the resistor will get real hot. It would be one with a decent heat sink attached. 2. Change the Relay (or Flasher Unit) to a type that is designed for LED. On Gen 1, that is almost impossible, as the flasher is solder onto the Dash's circuit board. Gen 2, I do not know.
  10. Vandals01

    Bp fuel

    Few days ago, I went to a BP garage, all the normal unleaded 95 were out of order. (Perhaps preparing for E10?) The only one left were Super. When I looked at the price: E10 = £1.359, Super = £1.559. I immediately jumped back into the car and drove away. Back to the scenario. I think a number of people have over-reacted to the additional 5% ethanol. If water did not build up when there were 5% ethanol in the tank, then suddenly 5 more percent will make a world difference? Furthermore, what a number of people do not know is: The petrol tank is actually SEALED. By sealed I mean, no air / water can enter the tank once you screw that cap on. If the tank were not sealed, you'll "Probably" get a "Checked Engine Light" with EVAP related engine code. So in effect, the only water that can be in the tank were the water introduced while filling. But again, while filling, it creates a back pressure forces air / vapour out of the tank. So the amount of water introduced by air is almost none.
  11. I filled my Aygo with E10 last night. After driving 417 miles, the dash beeps and with the final bar of fuel blinking. By the time I found a place to fill-up, that was 434 miles. Top-off the tank with 33.63 Litres. (Tank size 35L with maybe 1-2L on the neck?) Anyway, when I drove away. I did notice a drop in pedal response. The same feeling when I used Supermarket's stuff rather than BP or Shell. So I would expect MPG to drop. Question is by how much? I shall find out in the next 2 weeks.
  12. £60 battery from the dealership sounds about right. I think my dealership is around the same price, if not, a bit lower (say £50) The thing about battery is: It needs to be fresh, I.e manufactured not long ago. There is usually a manufactured date stamped on the battery where the last 2 number "Usually" corresponds to the year of manufactured. Why it has to be fresh? Lead-Acid battery loses its capacity the second it was filled with acid. So you'll want to buy it from a place where people usually gets their batteries. Then, when a battery is fully drained. Unless it is a fairly new battery, otherwise that battery is well on its way to the junk yard / recycle centre. I've seen too many cases where battery were drained, few weeks / few months later, they needed a new one.
  13. Nope. In fact, you are MUCH better off with a battery that exceeds it's recommended capacity. That's because a battery with a bigger capacity "Typically" have a longer useful life than a smaller one. The very reason why people prefer to fit a 063 battery over the standard 202 on a Gen 1 Aygo. (Higher Capacity, Stronger Cold Cranking Amp (CCA). It takes much longer time for CCA degrades to a point that can no longer start the car.) As for Question: Will larger battery wears down Alternator faster? Some people say yes, some people say no. Some even came up with a theory that it might extend the life of the alternator. However, the consensus is that: it has very little to no effect to the life of the Alternator.
  14. I changed mine every 5000-6500 miles. Some people might call this excessive, but to my defence: 1. The place I lived is quite dusty (Car's exhaust / soil / plants). 2. I do a lot of short trips (food delivery). 3. A lot of start / stop (drop off food, then back to the shop etc). All of which shortens the life span's of the engine oil. Besides, oil is cheap (£47.49 for 20 Litres of Mannol 5w30 C3, Filter £4 each from GSF / EuroCarParts with PROMOTION CODE). Each oil change is less than £15.
  15. And this too: https://www.700r4transmissionhq.com/p0011-toyota-aygo/
  16. Either will be fine. 5w30 will gives better protection once it warms up. It will also makes the engine more quiet and less shakey at idle. 0w20 will gives more protection at start-up. It will also gives the best fuel economy. I'm currently using 5w30 C3 on my 2012 Aygo. Will be using 0w20 in my next oil change (see how much it can improve on fuel consumption).
  17. Transponder chip has been around for 20-30 years now. I remember I first stumble it on my first car (2005). I was playing around with the key, opening the plastic cover and stuff. Hours later, I went to my car. It starts, but the engine would stall immediately after ignition. I called my broke down cover, grab the spare key and the car will no longer stall. What happened was: while I was playing with the plastic cover (open it up), the transponder chip fell out. And without the transponder chip, the computer will cut power to the fuel pump hence the car will simply stall. Lucky in my case, I managed to recover the transponder chip, so nothing was lost except time. Nowadays, the transponder chip and computer become more advance. Transponder Chip can be integrated into the circuit board as part of the remote key. Computer not only shut off fuel pump, but can stop power to starter (so the car will not turn) and block the ignition sparks as well. As for the OP's case, there are several options: 1. If your car comes with spare key, you can clone the transponder chip. (Next if you don't have a spare key.) 2. Get a USED set of ECU, Dash Computer, Immobiliser from eBay and change it out. E.g: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203555554089 (£72) The problems with this method are: 1. You want to make sure the parts number matches the one in your car. 2. The odometer will be in-correct. Not so much of a problem if you have no intention to sell the car. 3. Locksmith - you'll need to shop around. TouchClone / CarProg / Tango <- these kits can produce a transponder chip by reading the immobiliser. Tell them all transponder chip were lost, need to generate a new one by reading the immobiliser. 4. Toyota, likely to be the most expensive option. But it doesn't hurt to get a quote.
  18. Because it looks cool. Big Rims, Low Profile tyres is a FASHION. To be fair, larger wheel and low profile DO gives better Handling and Road FeedBack BUT in-exchange for Comfort. Furthermore, low profile tyres are more likely to be damage by Potholes.
  19. Just extend the wires? Head Shrink Crimp connectors: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/253041956988 2 meter 1.5mm wires enough for you to extend it by 50 cm https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124215741714 Then just wrap the whole thing with electrical tape.
  20. There are people around (e.g: my cousin) who wants to Up-Shift and Down-Shift manually but too lazy to press the clutch. Anyway, for me, it is definitely Manual. More control, better fuel economy and easier to replace the clutch. And if I was to think about Automatic, it will definitely be hybrid. The latest No Transmission version takes the CVT out of the equation. To be fair, Toyota's CVT has been fairly reliable, but it will be even better without it.
  21. The thing is: E10 has been rolled out in other European countries well before UK, and yet there have been virtually nothing saying Aygo is damaged as a result. So it is safe to assume Aygo (both Gen 1 and Gen 2) is perfectly compatible with E10. The only thing that concerns me is MPG (Fuel Economy). Given the fact energy density of Ethanol density is LESS than Petrol, it is expected that E10 will increase fuel consumption. The question then, is by how much? Research conducted in 2011 shows the decrease is not signficant: https://www.autoblog.com/2011/06/09/study-finds-insignificant-fuel-consumption-change-between-e5-e1/ Let's hope that is true. Anyway, I found that even amongst E5 themselves, fuel economy varies from brand to brands (at least for my previous Renault Clio anyway). The worst MPG is usually the supermarket brands (C & S).
  22. I've encountered exactly the same problem when I installed my Pioneer Mvh-390BT. Basically, all HeadUnit requires two sources of power: 1. A constant supply of 12v (even if the car is turned off) - To keep memories such as Radio stations. 2. Supply of 12V when the car turns ON - The primary power draw, also alert the Head Unit to turn itself on. In my and yours case, 1 & 2 were basically the wrong way round. As for the Mvh-390BT, where is a quick disconnect on the wiring loom (on the Red and Yellow wire). All I did was disconnect them, then cross it over to solve the issue.
  23. Similar issue I would say. When car battery is weak, it could create all sort of electronic problems, e.g: Power Steering, Automatic transmission not engaging properly etc. So the battery could be already on is way out. Leaving it for 3 weeks made the battery deteriorate further. When a battery is really flat, it takes a bit of charging before you can jump start a car. (Unless you have a battery jumper pack that supplies 15~17 volts which overcomes the drain of BOTH charging the battery AND that power required to start the car.) So if you use one of those Jump Leads, it may take 30+ minutes charging from another running car before you can turn it on. (From my experience anyway) For the immobiliser, it is pretty common for OLD cars. (More so with French car which is partly why French electronic fault is so famous.) My 05 Renault Clio had the same problem, at the end, I brought an ECU / Body Module and Key set from ebay (£100). Plug it in, the car starts straight away. 2 months later, the Ignition coil dies. 4 months later, more ECU related problem. At that point, I had enough and just scrap the car. In regards to the Aygo, it is not unheard of. It may give you a B2799 fault code. Solving this issue involves: 1. Tracing broken wires between the Ignition switch - Immobiliser Unit - ECU 2. Removing corrosion at electric connections. 3. Re-solder the immobiliser module. In fact, a number of cars end up in scrap because solving electronic faults is such a pain in the butt. Good luck.
  24. I've installed a new top light just as preventative measure: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/373068165477 £28.49 While smear the gasket with Silicone Grease hoping it will stop any leak in the future.
  25. On the V5, look for the car's Registration date. Before 1 January 2011, that's Euro 4. After 1 January 2011, that's Euro 5. Furthermore: I'm a little bit scratchy with Aftermarket CAT. (Especially with Euro 5 and onwards). Newer car are very sensitive when it comes to emission. (The car's electronic MIGHT decide to have a fight with the Aftermarket CAT.) So if I were you, I would keep the original CAT whenever possible. Better for both your wallet and any "potential emission related trouble" down the road.
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