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  1. Final update to this thread (I hope) and thanks for the patience! Changing to genuine Toyota shock absorbers did indeed resolve the remaining issue. So after a rather mistable first year with this car, I now hope the rest of the years I will own it will be less problematic 🙂
  2. The saga continues, and I think I may have found an explanation... but I want to run it through some with more experience first. If this is what I now suspect it is, it's not an actual fault, but a characteristic. I've been able to test yet another Avensis which indeed was much calmer to drive than mine, but the technician at that dealer noticed that the shock absorbers must have been recently replaced. They're replaced with TRW ones, which I'm told is very good but that they may come off as a bit more stiff than the original Avensis absorbers, and it's more than likely that at least two of the other cars I drove haven't had them replaced yet thus running on the original ones. So, my question is: can any of you share your own experiences using different brands of shock absorbers and comment on how that affected the general driving experience? Because really, everything is checked multiple times now and noone can really find anything wrong. As an experiment I also tried using my phone's gyro (which prooved MUCH more sensitive than I thought it was) to record vibrations while I was driving. We also have another car here, a Ford Focus, which DO have a much softer suspension. I drove both cars the same route twice and recorded the vibrations, and what I saw was actually quite eye opening. Both cars would show pretty much exactly the same vibrations, BUT the Avensis had a "feedback" that was almost twice the amount of the Focus. Nothing else stood out in the measurements.. Another thing that is pointing me in this direction is the fact that this "wobble" becomes less noticeable in higher speeds. I've seen forum posts where some people have complained about TRW being uncomfortable in urban driving environments, which kinda lines up with my own experiences. My hope is that it IS that easy, and that changing to stock absorbers will wipe out the problem but this is rather expensive so I'd like some more thoughts around it before I jump the gun and take the gamble.
  3. There actually is one shop near me that have a Bapro bpa-4r. I could contact them.. any suggestions on what to ask them to be especially on the lookout for? Or were you just thinking in general to pick up where vibrations may come from?
  4. Rolling free is according to the users manual damaging to the cvt box, or else I'd have tried. Have replaced rear discs and pads now. The caliper was actually fine, it was everything else that stuck. A bit odd, because this was definitely done recently, so whoever changed the parts did not do a proper job. Going to do a bit of testing now to see if it's better or the same. The other two suggestions I've tried, without really noticing any difference but it's a bit hard to say.
  5. Yes, and what you describe there is exactly what had me doubt, because some of what I feel is definitely road noise.. but then I started noticing some patterns that was always there, then I was starting to doubt myself as I know the road standards in this country isn't the very best. So there was a few rounds of this.. "I'm overreacting. No, this is wrong. No, overreaction. Hm. no way.. this is definitely wrong." etc. 🙂
  6. I am 100% sure it's not road surface at least, because I test drove another T27 and we first drove the other car, then my car driving the exact same route. Both me and the owner of the other T27 noticed a big difference. This is why I am ramping up this troubleshooting now to get this problem eliminated. 🙂
  7. With exception of the last two years before I bought the car, it was following the annual service program and brake parts have definitely been serviced along the way. There is no way you can drive a 2013 car that's never had brake service in a country where there's more salt than snow in the winter and still pass the bi-annual controls. When I replace brake parts I am actually already going through most of the points you describe above. I am very thorough doing this kind of job, as I hate when it's flawed in any way 🙂 I know from other people's experience that if the piston is starting to stick, it may simply be too much work to be worth it considering a new caliper isn't that expensive. I will check the slider pins, though. If they turn out to be the culprit, I will just clean and re-grease (which I would have anyway) and save the new caliper for a rainy day. I also expect some excessive wear and tear of the pads and/or discs, which is why I will be doing those too. I am still unsure if this is at all related to my issues because of the characteristics (frequency not changing with vehicle speed, but the wobble feels less intense), but if this resolves it nothing would be better. It's also one point the garage wants to cross off the list before doing any further trouble shooting... a partially stuck rear caliper does not really rhyme with the intermittent sense of driving over cobblestones in the steering wheel either. These two may of course be completely unrelated 🙂
  8. I could try. Any particular areas you would want the sound from in particular?
  9. Believe me, I was on that path. 🙂 And just like you, I concluded that two sets of wheels, BOTH with brand new tires shouldn't be behaving exactly the same. I was made aware of the fact that the right read caliper was slightly jammed (not fully, but the wheel does not rotate freely when turned). This was overlooked by the first workshop that looked at this (yet they claim it was checked). I have no idea if a slightly stuck caliper can create these kind of vibrations and wobble, but this needs to be fixed regardless so I have bought a new caliper and an entirely new set of brake parts as I am not going to want to battle with a worn caliper. Question is whether or not I'll be able to swap it myself or if I should let the professionals handle this 🙂 (The caliper swap is the part I'm unsure of, replacing discs and pads I've done multiple times before)
  10. I forgot to mention that tires are brand new and balanced. This happens with both my winter wheels (which also have a new set of tires) and summer wheels. No loose wheel nuts either as I am always performing an additional tightening a few kilometers after having swapped wheels.
  11. The story of the now believed to be possessed Avensis continues.. (for those who remember my earlier threads!) So, I'm now 10 months into my ownership of what is supposed to be a good car (and it really would have been if it weren't for what I'm about to describe). I experience a weird wobbling and some minor shaking that I now have confirmed isn't supposed to be there. I kept doubting myself and thought I was going insane, so I decided to try other T27s, and this is when I finally realized, my car DO have a problem. When driving in low speeds (up to 40-50 km/h) the sensation of driving on an uneven road is quite strong. Apparently, my girlfriend think it is quite visible that I was sortof jumping up and down in my seat while driving even. When driving on highway you can still feel it, but it's less dominant, though at highway speeds there is also the sense of driving on cobblestone occasionally. Not as violent, but still enough that you can feel it in the steering wheel. In addition to having tried other T27s, I've also had others drive my car and everyone who tried notices what I'm speaking of. One of them even commented on it already after just about 200 meters, so.. it's not just me! (And you have no idea how relieved I was to clear that up!). This may at first seem very subtle, because it could easily be mistaken for being the road itself on shorter trips. But when driving longer distances, you will realize that these movements never really change. And here's the odd thing, it does NOT seem to be tied to neither engine speed or vehicle speed itself other than the wobbling feeling less intense at higher speeds. Does anyone have any ideas what sources such vibrations could stem from? Or did anyone with a similar car experience them? I'm really grasping at straws here now, and Toyota is saying that if they're going to find this fault we could be talking about hours of troubleshooting at an equivalent of £140 an hour 😞
  12. Well, now you have! 😉 But I did have difficulties finding other examples when troubleshooting. It wasn't until I stumbled across a video from someone with a failed CVT in a Nissan I was 100% sure my transmission was faulty, because it had the EXACT same whine.
  13. Not sure they have much choice other than accepting when a customer leaves a car for troubleshooting for troubleshooting a loud obnoxious whine and mechanic hear the whine coming from the transmission. 🙂 Also, to Toyota, this was just a paid job. They did not cover anything. The used car warranty covered all of the labor and 40% of the cost of the transmission. I (and the dealer) cover the rest. And in such claims, there are no VAT either, which made the transmission a bit cheaper. And yes, I already knew Toyota CVTs being reliable, which is why I took a chance (and lost!) when I bought this 2013 Avensis. But luckily I had this extra insurance, and now with a new/factory rebuilt one, I can sleep very well at night. These boxes fail so rarely that some of the mechanics at local Toyota had never even seen a Toyota with a broken transmission. So I think the odds are still quite good... 🙂
  14. Hi, been a while, and I thought I'd give an update because I hate when others leave loose ends on their threads, so here's a conclusion on mine. The CVT transmission was suspected faulty on my end, and it was confirmed. Because of busy days at Toyota, it wasn't possible to get the job done until now. I got my car back today with a new transmission and I will mention a few things about how the car was before and after, as it may actually give some clues to others experiencing similar things in the future. The cost of the entire replacement was an equivalent of £1840 GBP to me because of a 12 month extended used cars warranty, of which the dealer said he'd split 50/50 with me. The alternative would have been to let the dealer fix this, but I'd then get a used transmission rather than a factory rebuilt from Toyota. I chose that option for peace of mind, as I now have five year full warranty on parts and labor, so I am living just fine with £900-ish for a new transmission, I'd not even fight over paying the full deductible as it is easily worth it. Now, I was noticing a lot of things with my car that didn't feel right. This included: - Intermittent shaking when driving on highways, as if driving over stippled lines. This typically went on and off every half a minute or so. - The car was juddering a lot, especially in sports mode - There was a very awkward and loud whine from the transmission When I got it back today, I at most expected some of the judder and the whine to be gone... but... I got a few surprises here. - The intermittent shaking was gone (yay!!) - Juddering during acceleration gone completely, even in sports mode. - The whine from transmission was also gone (as expected) And here's some things that did surprise me. Remember how I complained about excessive shaking when driving in cruise speed at low RPMs? There's still some shaking (caused by the low-ish RPMs), but .. - Car isn't shaking remotely as much as it did... in fact it felt so smooth now that it's like a completely different car. - It runs more quiet (how on earth does the transmission even affect that?) - The car responded almost immediately when pushing the accelerator and the car felt much much lighter. This was unexpected. - The transmission adapted MUCH quicker.. it was working way harder to maintain the optimal ratio while the old felt like it was a bit slow to react and lagging. - Too early to conclude, but I think I saw a decrease in fuel consumption too... it was a relatively short trip (30 minutes), though it ended on 6.4L/100KM. So, there were even symptoms I wasn't even aware of before I dropped off the car to have the transmission changed. I hope this can be of help to someone later. There are now no issues left on the car that bothers me... finally! 🙂
  15. Anyway, happy you solved it too 🙂 Hopefully this thread can serve as a reassurance to other owners with a knocking sound that comes from the steering wheel on various Toyotas, most of all T27, as all my "research" points to this as being a common point of failure, but very few conclusive threads about it and very little explanation as to why it happens.
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