spicyhotone

Ordered myself a noco charger. Is it safe to charge the battery with it still connected to the vehicle - given this is more than a trickle charger, so will be doing fancy stuff to the current/voltage to try and fix the battery, is there any danger of it frying any of the car's own circuits? Wondering what happens if the car is powered on whilst the charger is connected? I've ordered a permanent wired connector/socket so I can easily plug/unplug the charger from the battery, but now wondering if that isn't such a good idea, as it means having the battery connected to the vehicle whilst charging. I've never received any letter concerning the DCM update, or so far about the DC-DC converter recall - purchased my car in August 2021, so am guessing I will be affected by that one. The only recall so far has been the one concerning the braking system, which was applied at my last service in April. Although, it's not explicitly listed in my online service history - is that normal?

Had my alarm go off a few times - always around 9pm. Nothing happening around car. Given it a good spray of fly spray, thinking it was a moth waking up and trying to reach a nearby streetlight, but still get the same. Then measured 12v battery, and it's 11.8v, not good, assuming that's most likely the cause. I've got a battery charger somewhere, but a little worried charging this as it's in the car's interior rather than the better ventilated engine bay like most cars - is it safe to just leave on charge for a few days with all the doors closed, don't really want a recreation of the Hindenberg on my driveway! Not sure if it's rescuable or if such a low voltage indicates permanent damage to the battery. Had a longer run over the weekend, a couple of 1+hr drives, and still seeing low voltage after a day or so, so I'm a little concerned. Off on a driving holiday across Europe in a couple of weeks, so probably not time to book it into the dealer before we go. Is there a way of seeing if the DCM update has been done on my car (would this be done routinely at service?). Am assuming as the car is less than 3 years old, any DCM updates would be done under warranty - but what about a 12v battery replacement if it is knackered?

My (android) MyT app informed this morning there was a new MyT app I should download (eg. not just a regular update but a distinct new app). I followed the link to the google play store and installed the new app. However, I'm unable to add my RAV4 PHEV as a vehicle when I enter the VIN, and the list of compatible vehicles it displays doesn't even include the RAV4. So, I'm suspecting the (old) app was in error telling me to use the new app. Unless anyone else has had success?

Does the cold water on the very hot catalytic convertor damage or contaminate it? I always assumed this was the biggest risk?

Pretty sure it wasn't tyres - short low speed drive on wet roads - and never smelt it when running in EV mode.

Last night, I (unusually) used the self-charge option on the car to put some extra charge into the battery from the engine. I drove like this for about 5 miles, and when I returned home there was strong burning rubber smell around the car. I'd smelt this before over the Summer after driving over the Applecross peninsula pass, which involves a long steep climb. Then I wasn't sure it was my car, as there were lots of hot cars at the top, but last night was definitely mine. I'm wondering if it's possibly some rubber mounting straps for the exhaust system? I've done 17K miles in the car now (PHEV variant), and the engine is fairly well run in now, and I've used the car for a number of long (hundreds of mile runs) in HV mode, so wouldn't really expect any "New engine" smells any more, so a little concerned. Unfortunately didn't have time to go round the car to get a proper sense of where the smell was coming from, but it did seem strong around the back, and it did feel quite warm around the back. It reminded me a bit of my last diesel car which would get very hot exhaust system and slight burning smell whilst doing a regen of the particulate filter system, but I don't think the RAV4 (petrol) has this or does it? Anyone else had anything similar?

Has anyone tried installing one of those Li-ion replacement 12v batteries in their car? I suspect this technology is more suited to the current draws/recharge profile of EV/PHEV vehicles. I don't think the 12v in the RAV4 ever has to do a cold crank - that would always come from the traction battery, there is no 12v powered starter motor. Last time I looked they were rather expensive, but I was considering replacing mine with one when the time comes. Not sure if there's any drawbacks or modifications required though.

I've had the ABS recall applied, and it's made no difference in this behaviour (not that I expected to from what I understood it was addressing!)

I have this too (PHEV) and find it pretty unnerving.

Had the automatic headlights come on? Does that dim the MID? Certainly does dim the infotainment. If that was it, turning the headlights off (ie. off the auto setting) should fix it, and possibly back to the auto setting (ie. off & on again!) might fix it.

Any change to mpg on e5?

Our previous Kodiaq did exactly this, and it was a very nice feature I miss. Also flashed up a summary of the speed limits for different road types/conditions as you crossed a border. However, it wasn't perfect. ACC had a feature on that car which tried to prevent you undertaking. For some reason this functionality seemed to take 30 minutes or so to catch up after crossing into / out of UK - so you'd be trying to overtake, and it would decide you were going to undertake and start slowing the car down (a quick tap to the accelerator told it to get over itself). It would magically stop doing if after a little while, never did figure out what was going on with that.

It would be useful though if the number the car tells you is actually realistic, rather than a little over optimistic (you've sold me the car now, I don't need to be over promised any more!). Having said that, don't think Toyota is unusual in this respect, our Nissan Leaf also always over promises on range. The car knows how we tend to drive, so should be able to provide a more accurate estimate of available range (eg. if I average 3.5 miles/kwH (according to the car), then 14kwH should give me about 49 miles, not 56 miles which is 4 miles/kwH. Like Ernie, I've also noticed that last 10 miles of range can disappear pretty quickly. I also notice the first mile can go looooong way. This time of year a full charge pretty much always shows up as 56 miles of range, but I can sometimes drive 3-4 miles before it drops down to 55 miles. Can't believe it's beyond the wit of man (or computer) to make this range more accurate!

If you have a google account, you can do "File->Make a copy" which then you should be able to edit. Otherwise, you can do File->Download and open it in any other spreadsheet app

I've created a spreadsheet that helps calculate the relative costs of EV/ICE mode: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1_cCbzHOi0Fuu4m32hjAUGXi5tfO9eXt54jYLn1nEk-4/edit?usp=sharing (Not quite sure how this works, but I think you can make or download a copy so you can change the parameters to fit your own costs/consumption estimates)