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preperationlaunch

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Everything posted by preperationlaunch

  1. It's essentially there for sneaking the car off the end of the drive or out of an underground car park. Useful for sticking the radio on when you're waiting in the car and don't want it to start up yet. But, the car makes all sorts of choices about when you can use it. Battery level, battery temperature, engine load, engine temperature all factor into the 'yes you can' decision. People sometimes try and use it to better their fuel economy, but, the car has to replace all the energy you use in forced-EV mode anyway, so it can be counter-intuitive. The thing to remember with the hybrids is, it doesn't need to be in EV (forced or normal) for the benefits of the hybrid system. The car is constantly siphoning power into and out of the battery to help the petrol engine run more efficiently.
  2. The brakes also feel somewhat different because some of the braking feel is electronically controlled. The master cylinder has a plunger in it to simulate the feel of a normal brake pedal, whilst working to blend regenerative braking and friction brakes.
  3. Thanks again Bob. Could I trouble you to take a look at this, as the wiring colours from Russia/China don't seem to line up with the wiring diagram. From the diagram, I think yellow (1) should be chassis ground, pink (2) is the VSS, red (3) is switched live and black (4) is permanent live. I essentially want to splice the switched live to power a relay to shut off permanent live to the nav unit when the car is off.
  4. There's no weight sensor in the passenger seats in the rear, only in the front. In the mk3 Yaris, the logic is fairly simple. When you turn the car on, all 3 lights light up, to show you no belts are buckled. If you buckle up a seatbelt, the car assumes someone is sat there and the light for that seat goes out. Shortly after, the others also go out. If a buckled seatbelt is unbuckled whilst driving, then the light comes back on, and possibly it bongs at you. I can't recall.
  5. Do you have a copy of this still please, it's showing as unavailable to me, and the Chinese/Russian nav unit isn't powering down properly. Aside from that I'm relatively happy with the unit so my plan is to add a switched relay to turn it off when the car is off.
  6. Lead acid battery is 12v x 35Ah = 420Wh Lithium HV battery is quoted as 700Wh nominal. They're in the same ballpark in raw capacity. What is the problem with the 12v system not being supplied 14v at all times. If the 12v battery is fully charged anyway, then the car can save energy by not holding it at a float charge. Said energy would just be being dissipated as heat. Any 12v loads will be being powered by the DC-DC converter, rather than the 12v battery.
  7. I'm not sure smart charging is the problem when you put it into context. The car has a very small Lithium HV battery, the 12v battery is about equivalent in size. It makes little sense to charge one battery from another if you can avoid it, charging losses are high in lead acid batteries. @Dala are your voltages measured when the engine isn't running and the car is in READY? As logically, it'd make sense to avoid charging the 12v battery when the HV battery isn't being charged. That won't stop the lights/HVAC etc from being supplied by the DC-DC converter, the 12.7 volts could still be coming from it, with the 12v battery essentially idling.
  8. You can knacker a new wheel bearing by overtightening it. 'Tight enough' is a very subjective thing and can end up leaving you with something that's far too loose, or far too tight. For the seconds it takes, there's not much excuse to not do things properly. Even caliper bolts can be stretch bolts. Honda like to use them on their bikes as a good example. For the home mechanic, if you've been methodical and used a good wrench, you can be reasonably certain that everything is done up as it should be. I've used garages that video themselves torquing wheel nuts to manufacturer spec too after a tyre change. I imagine it's a way to alleviate liability, but clearly, if tight enough was good enough, they wouldn't be doing that.
  9. The manual will show you that the charging voltage is slightly higher for AGM mode.
  10. Most normal cars will use the engine to generate vacuum, vacuum is used with the brakes to boost the pressure from your foot on the pedal. With the hybrids, there's a little 12v pump that runs instead to generate that vacuum, so the brakes will always work just as well, even when the engine isn't running. You could well be hearing the car generating that vacuum. You'll also notice it sometimes runs when you first unlock the car and open the door.
  11. The DC/DC inverter is fused at about 100 amps, which is about the same as the output as Yaris' alternator on the petrol models. It actually supplies around 80A max according to a few sources I've seen online. People quite happily run 1kW inverters off of them
  12. With the older hybrids (Ni-Mh) at least, there are a couple of cut-off points measured on an OBD2 gauge. I can't imagine the newer ones are a million miles off, just with more usable capacity between the points. The car will stop charging even when the ICE is running at about 65 to 70%. The upper limit for regen charging is somewhere between 75-80% depending on the day/battery temperature etc. As for discharge, the absolute cut-off point for charging is when the car gets down to 40%, it'll run the engine but only long enough to bring it back up to 45%, before cutting out again and cycling in that very narrow window of charge. It doesn't make sense to the car to idle the engine for longer than necessary if it can help it. I have seen it go as low as 30% when pressing on and really trying to work the car hard. The other thing is, the bars display, as seen on the car has a bit of fuzziness to it, and overlap, depending on how the car has been being driven etc. They don't always match up to the exact same percentages. See below to give you an idea of what I mean.
  13. People in the US use them all the time in their hybrids to no ill effect. Shutting off the AC/heater should make a significant impact in terms of how long the car will let you stay in neutral before it decides there is risk to the traction battery. AC is the biggest draw when you're not moving. I don't recommend this, but you can force charge the battery by pressing the brake and accelerator at the same time whilst in D. However, there's the obvious risk that if you remove pressure to the brake pedal, you go flying into the nearest solid object. Alternatively, if you switch to the battery display, turning the heater up on your approach to the car wash will run the engine. You'll notice that the bars will climb to near the top. (The car always leaves a buffer). The car will charge itself at the same time to avoid wasting the fuel solely as heat up to a pre-determined cap.
  14. The car will still cut out battery assist once the battery falls below a certain threshold. There's still enough juice left to start the engine at that stage usually, but you'll need to reset the computers by disconnecting the battery and add enough fuel to let it start. If you keep resetting it and trying it in that state, there's where you're really liable to have battery issues. On the mk3, the fuel gauge reads empty when there's another 6 litres left in the tank, the remaining range is quite conservative and doesn't seem to count those 6 litres to try and discourage you from getting stuck like the above.
  15. There's a brake booster vacuum pump that runs too, that's powered electrically as there's no guarantee of engine vacuum at any point. It'd be a bit useless if you had to start the engine to be able to brake.
  16. Some quick back of an envelope maths, peak demand in winter is around ~50GW, current demand as I type this is ~30GW. Minimum night time summer demand is 20GW Assuming every car was pulling 7.2kW (lower-tier fast charging) at once, that'd give us around 3-5 million cars worth of spare capacity. But, it gets more interesting with smart chargers, and smarter grids. In all likelihood, you'll tell the car what time you want it charged by, that'll then communicate with the charger and the grid to make sure that happens. There are plenty of people that would leave the car plugged in whilst at home if it meant their electricity bill was notably cheaper. Assuming a shallow depth of discharge, the impact on the car's battery would be negligible at most. You may also benefit if you have a car that supports vehicle-to-grid charging and leave your car plugged in. Again, the car will be charged by the time you need it, but it may well have been contributing to grid stability overnight. Especially as we continue to move to renewables. It can be more efficient to get a few batteries to charge at the right time than it is to ramp up and down fossil or nuclear power stations. Toyota hybrids work along a very similar principle of using the battery to keep the engine in an optimum range. Realistically, peak times will shift as demand does.
  17. The Leaf of that era is a particularly bad example, with the size of the battery meaning accelerated wear and the range not being particularly good anyway. You're only starting with 22kWh. They also used forced air cooling, limiting their lifespans in hot areas, and the post-2014 or so Leafs are much better in terms of battery wear due to using a better cell chemistry, especially in warmer climates. A counter example would be the Ampera/Chevy Volt from the same era. They have an 10.8kwh usable battery, derated from a total of 15kWh with liquid cooling and good quality cells. Very few owners have seen any range reduction from them, even after hundreds of thousands of miles. The Volt/Ampera was designed around most people only doing about 30 miles a day, which would be sufficient from an EV, with a reasonable motor for doing any long distances. They can do up to about 50 miles a charge on a good run, which isn't bad at all for 2012. But, marketing and price killed the Volt. More modern BEVs are using heat pumps too, so the energy drain from heating is minimal compared to the older way of running a big resistive heating element. I know people that drive from the North of England to the South of France regularly in their BEV, with range between 180-350 miles (absolute worst to absolute best case) depending on the time of year. Their experience has been that charging infrastructure is much better on the continent. People talk about the environmental aspects, but, consider how many cells are now being reused out of EVs, a cell that isn't useful in a BEV anymore is still useful as grid storage and other lower current applications.
  18. My Gen3 Yaris is loving the warmer weather, and now it has clocked up a whopping total of 12,000 miles, the fuel economy has improved notably over when I got it with nearly half that. I've been eking up from an average of around 50-55mpg across winter (closer to 50 tank to tank, ~10% higher on the dash) to commuting and pottering around town netting me a dash average of 72mpg over the last 50 miles or so since my last fill. That's a mix of big hills, NSL and rural roads with a bit of town driving. Admittedly, I've not been using the climate control, but equally, I've not needed it either.
  19. You can get all sorts of weird fault codes when there's been a low battery. Sensors don't read what they're supposed to, valves don't move the way they're supposed to and motors don't move the way they're supposed to. This mightily confuses the ECU, and with some faults, it has to keep the light on just in case.
  20. It was covered. You book it based on the reg or VIN of the car, which then shows you the various options including hybrid health checks. So the system knows it’s a hybrid. You can book for any participating dealer through MyToyota. I got mine done a few weeks ago.
  21. Nope. That was for an AGM battery, booked through the MyT app. I booked on the Monday and had an appointment on the Wednesday. The service manager was surprised too, it would’ve been about £190 without the fixed price servicing. Note, I’ve no servicing plans or anything on the car. It is just the price Toyota charge.
  22. Toyota do a replacement 12v battery under fixed price servicing for 105 quid. I couldn't buy the battery on it's own anywhere for less than that. That's fitted with a wash and vacuum to boot. You can book it online or through their app.
  23. What's different in this case though? Both rely on 12v contactors to engage the battery, both charge the 12v battery through a DC-DC converter. The difference is that some EVs will engage the contactors to charge the 12v battery when the vehicle appears 'off' and whilst it isn't plugged in. The problem for the Hybrids is that the 12v battery isn't that much smaller than the HV one, so charging it would require a not inconsequential amount of power from it. You'd not get many chances before flattening your HV battery. Hyundai in their some of their HEVs and PHEVs use a Lithium 12v battery with a generous low voltage cut out. There's a button in the cabin to override that cut-out and still start the car.
  24. The problem is, all the computers run on 12v, as do the door locks, lights etc. The Nissan Leaf for example, will start charging the 12v battery from the bigger battery. But, there's one big difference. The big battery in a Leaf is a minimum of 24kWh. The 12v battery in a Yaris is 0.4kWh, the big battery is 0.7-0.8kWh. You simply don't have enough in the big battery to keep topping up the smaller one, and a discharged HV battery can be a nightmare.
  25. It gets wonderfully chicken and egg. You wouldn’t uprate the inverter until you can make use of it. For reference, max acceleration amps I’ve seen are around 110-120 on the mk3, with max regen being 90A with about 50 sustained regen being the most the cruise control can impose. Allegedly, a Prius C (the Yaris mk3 in a frock, or vice versa really) gets a boost of 5-10 US MPG with a lithium pack replacing the Ni-Mh one.
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