Red_Corolla

I've only had a strimmer, but the only really important thing to remember is to make sure you always dose the petrol with the correct amount of 2-stroke oil. I found the vibration quite numbing, so you might want to avoid using it for extended periods.

Yes, my mistake. I just thought of the first thing that came to mind that might end up in that area of the car and guessed wrongly. I suppose the question is, has it fallen off or is it a surplus item that was dropped inside the car during the build? Time for a thorough functional test.

The short answer is, I don't know. But it looks like maybe one half of a plastic shell that clamps around something, probably for cosmetic purposes. One thing I do recognise is the brand name: Valeo is a clutch company, so maybe it fits somewhere around the top of the clutch pedal?

Good to hear you made progress. You didn't really need to shrink the partition, it just has to be formatted with FAT32. If you're stuck with Windows, there are ways around the limitations of the built in formatting tool. For example, there's a very good tool called Rufus that you can download for free and it will do the job for you. 👍

I think Brose are a known brand in window regulators; I recall the name from fiddling with a window on a Cavalier I had back in the day. Could be OE.

It's evident from the dust on the wheel spokes that a lot of surface rust has been scrubbing off from while the car was sat. As long as the inboard sides are no worse than what your photos show, I think they'll clean up ok with a few heavy applications from high speed (under safe conditions, of course).

A 128Gb Sandisk stick works fine for me when formatted in FAT32. I'm not saying exFAT won't work because I haven't tried it, but it's not mentioned in my PDF owners manual (page 434). It's a common misconception that FAT32 file systems are limited to 32Gb. That's actually a limitation of the Windows formatting tool, which they've never bothered to lift since the days when anything larger than that was too much for the human mind to conceive. A linux or Mac based machine will be able to format all of your 128Gb stick in FAT32 just fine.

Ring end of a combi spanner is what I normally use. Fit it before attaching the pipe, obviously. Gives you a nice 'tap handle,' to quickly flick between open and closed. 😊

You could try a visual inspection and look for evidence that the pump has been leaking. There's normally a very small 'weep hole' beneath the drive pulley and that's where the coolant will be escaping from if the seal has failed. Try to find the hole and look for a tell tale stain. Other than that, I would be inclined to carry on and just keep it under observation, as long as it's not overheating and the coolant loss isn't significant.

It doesn't do any harm and can help by removing any loose metal particles, although I would expect a Toyota gearbox to be equipped with a magnetised drain plug. I think some manufacturers started doing away with the magnet as a penny pinching measure.

They tend to be either 11mm or 8mm. I don't have specific info on your car, that's just general experience from working on a variety of vehicles over the years. Nothing exotic required.

Happened with my last car when it was built. Sometimes the rack is centred in such a way that the dead horizontal position is halfway between two splines, so the wheel has to sit slightly off in one direction or the other. The cure when it's out by that very small angle is to adjust both track rods by an equal amount, just to tweak the centre position without altering the actual tracking.

Assuming, for now, that the timing is correct, the only way I know how to understand more about the loss of compression (without dismantling) is a leak-down test with compressed air.

I too find that the E5 tends to go a bit further, just enough to offset the difference in pump price. With E10 it seems like we have to buy a bit more fuel to go the same distance now. Hard to see any net benefit to anything except fuel duty revenue.

Very much the same with mine, anywhere from late forties to mid fifties as a tank average.