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clix

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  • First Name
    clix
  • Toyota Model
    Corolla TS Hybrid
  • Toyota Year
    2021
  • Location
    Other/Non-UK

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  1. I did some more investigating, where most of the wind noise comes from in my corolla, while driving it. I used some phone app, that acts as a stethoscope and amplify sound from microphone and you can listen it trough headphones. While I was moving the phone next to the door seals, the wind noise was not that bad, it looks like door seals are doing it's job. Also windows itself were not the worst offender. Noise was higher, but was not the worst. I measured my windows thickness, and the front is 4mm and the rear is 3.2mm. I have the non acoustic front windows. According to some thread on hybridlife (cant find it right now, but users measured glass thicknesses of different cars) it is actually not that bad. For example, e-golf, that is much quieter car in comparison, has 4.1mm front and 3.3mm rear, which is only 0.1 mm difference to my corolla. Corolla with the acoustic windows was also measured, and the front, laminated, were 4.5mm, and the rear the same, at 3.2mm. The worst was actual windows and doors seal / interface. It was bay far the loudest part that I found in the vicinity of my head. My first idea is, if the seals were designed for 4.5mm windows, they would probably not seal as good, if windows are 4mm. Don't know if the seal is the same and if performance would degrade with thinner windows, but this is possibility. I than checked windows-doors interface on other cars, and majority of all other cars in the similar price range has additional seal in this place. here is a bad drawing of how it looks. Orange is the seal that corolla (and all other) cars have, and red is additional seal that is probably in place to reduce wind noise. Maybe this is the reason for additional wind noise? I was thinking about two solutions, but was not able to find seals that look like that: 1. weird L shaped seal: 2. tear drop shaped seal: If anybody has any idea what seal could be DIYed, post your idea here. 😄
  2. Are you sure you only have one USB? I have another one in the hole under the arm rest, next to the 12V socket. But this one is charging only.
  3. I also noticed ECO/NORMAL/SPORT modes having an effect on ACC. It accelerates harder in SPORT mode and more leasurly in ECO. I use SPORT on motorway, so if person in front moves away or accelerates, it accelerates faster. But I have 1.8, maybe with 2.0 even normal or ECO in motorway is enough. 🙂
  4. I also have this feeling. At higher speeds, I sometimes check if windows are closed.. I sound insulated lower portions of the doors last month, but apart from actually better sounding stereo (objectively, one door insulated, and the other not, and moving sound from left to right. lower frequencies definitely sound better, a bit quieter and less boomy, but there is still resonance present at one/some frequencies. I can now enjoy music at higher volumes and overpower the road/wind noise rather comfortably) I didn't notice any outside noise reduction. Even in the tunnels. It might feel like there is less noise coming trough the lower portion of the doors, but because the majority still comes from the window area, I was not able to perceive any difference. I don't know if the window in itself is to blame, or the interface between the windows and the doors, window seals. These seals around all windows on the corolla do look and fit like they were designed with only the price in mind. One speculation that I have is that they designed the seals for the thicker, laminated side windows in higher trims, and they use the same seals for lower trims with thinner non laminated glass. This would imply, that the seal wound not be that great for thinner windows. Don't have any proof of it, tho. Maybe someone with access to both cars, could do side to side comparison of seals and also noise test? 🙂 Also, the lower outer seal on the side windows is just atrocious. It has this velvet type feel, but is useless at wiping water from the windows. If you roll down wet windows, they come back equally wet. Also, after wet days it take days until windows don't roll up wet any more... For last few months, I was checking door seals on different cars, just to compare to the corolla. Honestly, most of the cars, in this class have very similar / same seal design around the doors. Same positions, same number of seals. no major differences. But I did notice, that the fit and finish on European cars looks better, seals fit better around and to the edges and panel gaps are smaller are usually smaller. My corolla has consistent, but quite big panel gaps. Maybe this has some influence? I don't know, but I still don't like driving it more than 115-120kmh indicated, due noise. And in the tunnels.. Funny thing is, that It it is also person dependent. To me this is the first car, in witch the noise actually bothers me, never had problems in cars before. My wife doesn't care at all. So I don't really discuss it with her, to not "break her bubble" 😀
  5. This is due to the safety reason. Traction battery (high voltage, < 200V ) is disconnected via relay, when car is OFF. When you turn it on, if everything is OK (diagnostics doesnt't return critical errors), it connects the traction battery to the system. So if 12V battery is flat, traction battery is disconnected, and can't be connected until 12V battery is charged.
  6. Dual and auto are just the buttons on top of the dials. Auto, turns on AC in auto mode and Dual enables/disables Dual zone AC, so left and right passengers can set different temperatures. The rotation of the dials itself changes temperature on the left/right side.
  7. Then thing about this hybrid system is, that el. motor (MG2, motor generator 2, traction motor) actually has the rated power, but the buttery is the limiting factor. In general, the bigger the battery, the more power it can provide, and the one in toyota hybrid is rather small. It can't provide full power to the MG2. So, for the electric motor MG2, to give all available power, petrol engine has to use some of its power to generate electricity. This is done by spinning MG1 and produced electricity is used to power MG2. As you can see, it is a tradeoff, you can give MG2 full power, but by doing that, some of the power from the petrol engine is used to produce electricity. So you can never have full combined power on both on the road at the same time. I also noticed that. I believe that it is because toyota is chasing maximum efficiency. If you are accelerating reasonably hard, but no full throttle, there is always some of the energy going from the engine to the battery, (via MG1) so it can be used later. In this case, engine is at the peak efficiency, but because you don't require so much power, it is used to charge the batteries for later. But if you floor it, petrol engine is basically doing the same thing(same power output), but instead of charting the battery, battery is being discharged and energy used to propel you forward.
  8. Thank you. In general, are you happy with them? 🙂
  9. Can somebody please take picture of their original toyota (thule) roof bars? I would like to see, what type they are, how they look like. Thank you!
  10. @parkerbol, tnx for your information. I also checked below two threads on hybridlife forum: https://hybridlife.org/threads/tutoriel-de-lajout-des-joints-detancheite-sur-une-voiture-toyota.3488/ https://hybridlife.org/resources/tutoriel-de-lajout-des-joints-detancheite-sur-une-voiture-toyota.8/ It looks like toyota has OEM seals that fit different cars. Is there a reason that you went with the "standard" and not original toyota seals? Do you know if these seals also fit corolla? I could find on the hybridlife, that they were successfully fitted on CHR and prius, but no info about the corolla.
  11. When I was ordering my TS, I decided to have a tow bar. They explained to me, that from factory all cars come without towbar, and the towbar is always fited by the dealer. We were only discussing for corolla, of course. So after I recieved the car, I had to bring it back a week later, and they fited the tow bar.
  12. I am slowly getting into this project. During the weekend, I had some time (and two butyl sound deadening samples), so I took the plunge and remove left side of the boot trim in my TS. This is how it looks like: Wheel arch is covered by cca 5mm foam/felt type sound absorbing material. There is also a sound absorbing "sponge" located behind a rear wheel arch. And sound absorbing felt is covering the ventilation holes. I put some sound deadening material on the rear quarter panel and also on the rear wheel arches. Quarter panel does definitely now sound more dead, but for the wheel arch the difference was not that big. If you taped it before, it did have some resonance, but it is fairly high frequency. After I added sound deadening material, the difference was not that big. It looks like the factory spray on material does a fairly good job at managing lower frequency resonances. I also put butyl mats in the spare wheel opening: before: after: With a knock test, this part now feels noticeably more damped, but if it will actually translate to quieter ride, we will see. I hope that it will at least reduce a bit the loud "ping" noise, when you ride over a dilatation on the motorway. It is quite intrusive. Few days before, was the first time, that I actually spent some time in the back seat, on the motorway and in the tunnels. In my opinion, back seats are even louder than front seats. What was actually surprising, was how much noise was coming from the rear cabin vent. Especially in the tunnels. When I removed this part of the trim, it had a sticker on it: It would imply, that the same part with the felt exists and probably for a reason. But due to reducing cost and weight, some cars don't have it (maybe all?). Next step is to get some sound deadening foam, felt or maybe eve sound absorbing thinsulate and better insulate this part of the car. I will probably stuff something behind the quarter panel, stick some felt on the trim and also try to put some material in the vicinity of the vent, to absorb as much sound as possible. The good thing is, that sound absorption material is usually not as heavy as a sound deadening or sound blocking material. 🙂 I would like to point out again, that I am not going for the "put all the materials everywhere" method, mainly because I would like to avoid adding to much mass to a car, that originally has a low payload capability and a weak engine (1.8). Sound deadening only on "strategic" places, and sound absorbers in the quarter panels and doors. I already received more sound deadening material, that will be used in the future. Overall, considering the amount of sound insulating material car comes with as standard, and what some other cars have, my guess is, that the car will become a bit quieter, but sadly the low frequency rumble will probably remain.. Low frequencies are verry hard to block/absorb/eliminate. You can check, some Tesla Model 3 and Y forum posts. It already has much more sound insulation material by default, but a lot of users are complaining on low frequency noise, on anything but the smoothest roads. And sound deadening never helped them a lot with this.
  13. I find it handels quite good. Better than tha cars that I am used to, to be honest. It doesn't lean much and grip is prefrectly adequite (and also tyre dependent). High speed stability is also fine, I maxed it up to 180kmh and had zero issues. Mine is on 225/45/17. It is also TS, estate version, which has longer wheelbase than the HB. This should be better for high speed stability. One thing I did notice is, that sterring response is quite fast, faster than on the previus car. The first time I went on the high way, I was slightly "overcorrecting" every movement, so I was swaying a bit, but quickly got used to it. No problems since than.
  14. I am thinking about some kind of sound deadening. I looked at quite a few builds from the ahifi.cz. The most apparent differences between corolla and pretty much all other cars from the same class or class above: -minimal door deadening, corolla has very small deadening patch on the front doors and nothing on back doors. All other cars have more. -plastic foil vapour barier on the back doors. I would guess, that this lets much more noise in, than mold injected abs plastic barrier. -deadening of boot area and rear wheel arches. Corolla has some kind of deadening material, but other cars have more. Even CHR whitch is built on the same platform, has quite a bit more in the boot area. -lack of sound absorbtion material in the boot area. This is mostly visible on the higher end cars, but space between the bootliner, rear quarter panel and wheel arcehs is filed with some kind of sound absorbing foam or felt. I believe corolla has some, but there could be more, imo. The whole floor is already covered with deadening material and felt carpet, so adding CLD there would not be effective. Deadening the doors will also houpfuly improve sound from the OEM stereo on the highway. Now, the noisefloor is so high, and this stereo is barley able to owerpower it. Also, this is the first car in recent years, where I have to masively increase volume when I go to the highway (the setting to increase it automaticly is se to max) driving the speed limit 130kmh. These points are where I am planing to start, when the weather warms up a bit. This will probably do nothing for the wind noise, but will houpfuly reduce road/tyre noise a bit. I am a bit worried, that there are more importand differences between other cars and corolla, like some kind of insulation of suspension from the chassis or something, that could be potential important noise sources. As a refference, I am comparing it to other european hatchbacks from the same class, that I used, like skodas, citroens, fiats and vw. In no other car have I ever experience the feeling of "stuffed ears" where you feel like you have to balance presure in the ear, while driving on the level land at 130kmh.
  15. Just press home button on the top left corner. Or radio button.
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