nlee

This depends on the set up. The lock relies on sensing current from the plug. If the schedule is controlled by the car (or is set as charge immediately), the plug will lock immediately providing the charger is live. If the schedule is set on the charger, for some chargers (like mine), the car will not sense the current until the schedule starts, so it won't lock the plug in until it starts the charge. Never been an issue for me though.

Have you reset the reading? If not, it will still be showing the long term average, including the summer.

General rule of thumb for all EVs is a reduction of about 20% of range from summer to winter. So about 10 miles in our PHEVs.

Maybe all WU plates because they have been registered at port of entry, as the vast majority of RAV4s come into Portbury?

That's correct. I believe the heat pump system works off the 12v system, so the DC-DC converter is activated when remote climate control is used.

I suppose that differs depending on where you are driving. Until 2024, in France the tyre must have the M+S marking, or M+S marking plus the 3 peaks symbol. After Nov 2024, you will need both the M+S and 3 peaks symbol.

This prompted me to check the newer app again, and now my car (2021 PHEV) will add to it. Opens a lot quicker than the original app. No additional functionality from what I can see, but I do now get these additional fields (for what they are worth). Downside is I can't see trip history for more than the last month, and now the original app is blank, saying I've successfully migrated to the new one, so nowhere to be seen. It may catch up in time.

I presume this is a 2023 PHEV with the connect system and the newer app, because I don't get those data fields on mine. You would expected the total range with A/C to be lower than the fuel range figure as A/C increases fuel usage, as it does with battery usage. The figures are bizarre though, it suggests on EV you are losing about 7% by using the A/C, whereas you are losing about 37% on petrol by using A/C. Either ignore it because it's nonsense, or if you believe it, definitely avoid using A/C!

Looking at the photo of the "plate", it's hard to put it scale, but compared to the connector size, it looks quite small. Hard to believe it's £70 worth of labour, and if some of the other suggestions are true, where the dealer has tried to charge for the part, about £150 for the part. Obviously something is better than nothing but I'm not convinced I'd rely on this for protection over other methods being employed. As well as there still being the issue of damage before discovering the plate is fitted, and the likelihood it would initially slow the attempt to steal, it doesn't look impossible to break it, or pull the wires. It may not have the convenience of a simple plug into the connector, but it wouldn't be too difficult to tap into the Canbus wires. Seems like a quick "fix" for now but far from a robust and sustainable solution, in my mind.

As Philip says, domestic charge points supply AC. It's the onboard charger that converts to DC. The socket on the RAV4 is Type 2. Type 2 can only use AC supply. public rapid chargers can supply DC, but via a different type of plug that won't fit in a Type 2 socket. For example, a fairly common plug is the CCS, like found on the BZ4X. The CCS is a type 2 with an extra bit below with 2 more pins. That extra bit supplies DC and bypasses the charger to directly charge the battery. You can plug a Type 2 plug in a CCS socket, but you cannot plug a CCS plug into a Type 2 socket. A Type 2 socket has no way to bypass the onboard charger with a DC supply. You might find this link useful to explain the complications of all the different configurations. https://electroverse.octopus.energy/community/ev-blogs-and-guides/ev-connectors-and-speeds For the RAV4, you only really have 3 options for home charging... Charge using a 13a socket using the supplied "granny" charger. Install a EV charge point, with either a Type 2 tethered cable, or a Type 2 socket and use the supplied Type 2 to Type 2 lead. Install a 32amp commando socket and purchase a commando to Type 2 lead (with associated controls). Ohme used to do one, and there is still some limited stock around from third party suppliers at about £450. There are cheaper "dumb" ones (closer to £250).

Ah, didn't register you were talking about Greece. You mention you have 3 phase so note my point above. Hard to recommend a wallbox because it's not something you use many of. I have a Hypervolt and it does the job. It does require WiFi so it's important to have a really good WiFi signal outdoors. Of the limited complaints I see about it, it's usually down to WiFi signal, particular in modern houses with foil backed insulation.

I'm not an expert so take that into account and seek further competent advice. The PHEV does have an onboard 6.6kw AC to DC converter/charger. 6.6kw is the maximum charge. There is no direct DC charge so you cannot use a public fast charge. A dedicated domestic EV wallbox type charge point is usually about 7-7.5kw because the maximum you can get from a UK single phase supply is 240v x 32amps = 7.7kw. There are no pins in the charging socket on the car for a 3 phase supply so in reality, there's no benefit to a domestic 3 phase supply. A 22 kWh public charger will still give you maximum 6.6kw charge rate (from one phase) but an 11kw public charger will only give you about half charge rate because it can only use one of the phases On to your question. You can have a 32amp "commando" socket installed, and you could charge at full 6.6kw rate from it. However, that "lead" is not supplied with the car, so you would have to purchase it with the integrated control unit. A few places do these, anything from about £250 to £500+. I imagine the regulations around fitting a 32a commando socket are similar to an EV wallbox (eg DNO checks, supply fuse size, etc. What you won't get, unless installed separately as part of the socket install, is built in protection, like load balancing, etc. And "smart" functionality will be dependent on the "lead" you purchase. For the difference in cost to install the socket and buy the "lead" versus a dedicated EV charger, I'm not sure I'd personally go for that unless there's another use for the socket or there are planning restrictions, etc. on fitting an EV charger to the property.

There's a lot of noise on Facebook groups about these plates, and it gives the impression that the problem will go away once fitted. It can only be a good thing and may pause the current spree of thefts, but the thieves are only exploiting the most convenient point to access the Canbus. Many other brands of vehicles are stolen using this method but access is by another point. In some cases of high end vehicles, it's reported that panels are pryed apart, or even cut to access the wiring..At least that's less likely to be appealing in a public place. I can only imagine that the "brains" behind these criminal gangs will soon latch on to the next weakest point after a while.

As per what Philip says but if your's gives unlocked warnings (mine doesn't so not 100% sure how this works) there must also be a "dial in" on a specific state change (e.g. unlocked for X mins without moving, or similar). If you are getting alerts them the DCM is still connected and working. In some cases of recovered vehicles, they have tried to remove these causing a lot of internal damage. If the location is not updating, maybe the GPS antenna has been ripped out. I think one of the earlier reports of theft on here reported that had happened on a recovered vehicle. I don't know if Toyota have access to any more information than you can see in the app but I has to be worth asking them the question.

Some really interesting stuff, thanks. Just one amendment, the PHEV was only introduced (at least to the UK market) in 2021. I think Ernie had one of the first.

If it's true (and I'm not so convinced yet), I could only imagine the difference is there are additional "checks" that the PHEV has to do before it will go into ready state. The obvious one is to check it's not still plugged in (charge flap open)! Maybe this changes the package/sequence of Can signals. In any case, as mentioned above, would it avoid the damage being caused? Would the thieves check the badge first to see if it was a plug-in? I'm sure the masterminds behind these thefts and develop the tech, are switched on, but not so much those that risk being caught who actually take the vehicles.

Or put the key in a Faraday box/pouch, or any old tin. My key sleeps but I still use a Faraday box. Means I know where to find my keys too

That's the test I did. If the key isn't moved within 4 mins, it goes to sleep and the door will not unlock. Tap the key and it will unlock again. Unfortunately, it sounds like yours does have the motion sensor.

Hi Flatcoat. Is that right about the PHEVs? I hadn't picked up on that previously. I'd assumed it was the same for HEV and PHEV. Do you know what the difference is? I.e is it the access to the socket/wiring, or relies on different Canbus signals from the electronic box they use? Even if it means a failed attempt at theft, the damage is still a big issue as I can't imagine the low-lives read the little badge first (although even the most stupid might notice it's plugged in!) If it's the programme in the electronics box, I can only imagine it's a matter of time before another version is developed that exploits the same method of access. I still don't believe there are loads of these devices around. If we are to believe what we read, these are around £20k so require a lot of vehicles to be taken to make it really profitable (I doubt they are getting market value - and quite a lot of the reports we read here are oddly recovered). That's probably why we see the geographical concentration of vehicles being stolen. Maybe if it needs a different box of tricks for a PHEV, and because there are a lot less of them about, it's not worth the "investment". Either way, HEV or PHEV, whichever part of the country, we can't be complacent. I have to say, I've just been on holiday and my car was left at a hotel near Gatwick for 2 weeks. I have to say I was fairly relieved it was all present and correct when I returned, being in that there London area. By the way, I left it with the Stoplock on, they moved it to a different area of the carpark (twice) and when I picked it up, they had left the Stoplock off! Not sure if it was the start of the holiday or just before the return that they left it off.

Are you driving in EV or Auto EV/HEV? Not tried it myself but the manual blurb implies the Auto EV/HEV might use the engine more. I drove in EV and have never experienced the engine kicking in on ACC breaking.

I drove back to North Wales from Gatwick yesterday. I'd used all the EV range on the way down. I topped up with fuel on the outskirts of Crawley which resets the fuel efficiency (that's the setting I use - Tank Average). 99% of the journey was on motorways doing between 50/75mph depending on traffic and roadworks. Two people and luggage, lights, wipers and A/C on. After completing the journey the MID indicates 52.8mpg. So that's basically using the PHEV as a HEV.

Have you had the DCM software recall done. Not quite the same symptoms as yours but mine froze and I couldn't turn the climate control on from the app. Was resolved by the update and been fine since.

Had mine in for a service last week and also asked. The guy I spoke to hadn't even heard of the theft issue, never mind the "fix".

I also follow a Facebook group for RAV4 owners. There have been a couple of posts this week of interest that I thought I'd mention. First, an "attack" on a RAV4 in the London area. They didn't manage to steal the car but tried hard, despite it having a Stoplock on. Some shocking pictures of the damage. The photos show the importance of fitting the Stoplock in the right place though. If the locking prongs hadn't been either side of the spoke, it's likely it would have gone. Second, one poster claims to have their car booked into the dealer tomorrow to get the Toyota fix for the vulnerability. It seems to be along the lines of one of our DIY members in installing some sort of metal shield plate for the wiring loom or connectors. Apparently they are charging £240 for the "fix". Another person's dealer has said it's £170. There is a suggestion Toyota will write to owners in due course and offer this modification but they are supposedly focusing on London and the surrounding area first. Mine is in for service on Friday so I might ask my dealer what they know about this.

I think it's quite conceivable I could get over 5 miles/kWh. If I drive to work on EV (8 miles from 200m above sea level to virtually sea level) and drive HV on the way back. I'd be bonkers but I reckon I'd easy do it. 😂😂