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Sketchy

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Everything posted by Sketchy

  1. Lol, yea the butterfly noise you've been hearing is Compressor Stall, basically a backup of air pressure when the throttle is close which has nowhere to go until it overcomes the force of the air being pushed in through the turbo and goes back the wrong way... You can get replacement filter disk things as their not supposed to come apart... The vaccum line for the dump valve should be just under where you dump vavle is. There one largeish pipe (the idle up connection which should be connected to the filter box or intake pipe if you've got an induction kit) and then one smaller one that is the stock connection for the dump vavle. If it's not connected here just make sure it's blocked off properly or you have a boost leak instead... ;)
  2. Cool, Cheapest place for parts seems to be WhifBitz but he orders direct from Japan so usually around 3 weeks delivery, next best bet is Trevor at TCB Parts.
  3. The disk thing you mentioned sounds like the inline filter that comes with the HKS SSQV. If you work backwards from the Dump Valve you should have a small pipe coming off the back of the valve like 3mm ID, this will run into the Black disk and then another slightly large ID pipe will run back to a metal connection towards the rear of the engine bay near the distributor. This is the Vaccum line that activates the dump valve when you come off boost. If the valve was still dumping when this wasn't connected then it probably needs the spring tightening (Should be a small 8mm bolt on the rear next to the pipe connection). The poor running could be due to the dump valve leaking... I've got one on my car so I'll take some close ups later today if I get a chance and post up for you.
  4. Unfortunately no one does a replacement balljoint kit for these parts, and in my experience replacement ball joints tend to be of inferior quality due to the sockets stretching during the removal/replacement of the ball anyway. For a new front arm and fig8 your looking at around £300 + fitting if you don't do it yourself. Ideally you should replace both at the same time as fitting one new part to an old part will cause increased wear making the new part fail quicker.
  5. Should do effectively it's the same as the rev 3 motor, difference are has the side intake manifold and cop ignition and a few other bit's but block should be the same...
  6. Engine is about 4.5Litres gearbox/Trans/Front diff(all fill from gearbox) is 5.2litres rear diff 1.1litre.
  7. For the Engine you need a 10W full synthetic oil like Silkolene Pro S 10W50 or similar. The Transfer case fills as part of the Gear box as does the Front diff. As a result of this you need to use a 75W API GL5 grade gear oil such as Silkolene Syntran 5. For the Rear diff on a ST205 the same as above for gearbox, deffo not an LSD oil as it's a gear type diff, the 185RC/CS is the same not sure about a stock 185.
  8. Sketchy

    Actuator

    The t piece should work fine effectively it's exactly the same thing just done in the pipe rather than on top of the actuator. Lower boost most likely actuator adjustment. However in order to get the best out of the hybrid you really need a remappable ecu and ideally separate electronic boost controller. On the stock ecu you will most likely find the Hybrid a bit slow on spool up and could have fuelling issues if the APR's not checked as it will be flowing a lot more than standard. cheers mate, will try adjusting the actuator a little. i would be happy just to get standard boost back No Worries just remember that even at stock boost the hybrid will still be flowing more air (That's the whole point) and hence you really still at least need to get the AFR checked before driving it too hard...
  9. 24 - AIR Open or short circuit in Air Temp Sensor Check Air Temp Sensor. Located within AFM for 165/185 and air intake box for 205 31 - AFM Open circuit or short in VC signal Test or replace Air Flow Meter - http://www.gtfours.co.uk/how_to/test_afm/afm.htm Both of these point to the AFM so i'd start by checking the connector is plugged in properly. Did the ECU light come on or where you just checking for codes. If just checking codes could be historic ones stored in the memory, in which case I'd reset the ECU (Pull the fuse, or disconnect battery) and then see if they come back.
  10. Sketchy

    Actuator

    The t piece should work fine effectively it's exactly the same thing just done in the pipe rather than on top of the actuator. Lower boost most likely actuator adjustment. However in order to get the best out of the hybrid you really need a remappable ecu and ideally separate electronic boost controller. On the stock ecu you will most likely find the Hybrid a bit slow on spool up and could have fuelling issues if the APR's not checked as it will be flowing a lot more than standard.
  11. yep if you got the right ones they should be pre-gapped to 0.8mm. FYI, don't try adjusting platinum or irrdium plugs as you can damage the electrodes extremely easily.
  12. If you on about an aftermarket one most people seem to remote mount them on the firewall or such like. If stock then it's on the end of the fuel rail... If memory serves correct I think stock pressure is 36PSI
  13. I'm pretty sure only the 205 had superstrut, where did you read that the 185 had it?
  14. Has to be said that the knock Toyota Knock sensors are a little over sensitive however if I'd killed 2 in quick succession I'd be looking at why they keep dying i.e. increase det rather than trying to desensitising them
  15. Do they not have toyota dealers in Canada?
  16. normally mid to high 20's, if you do alot of motorway driving and stick arround 70 you should be able to get low to mid 30's but hoon around on boost driving and you be seeing low 20's high teens at best.
  17. Nice one mate, you can get Aussie DP's repaired by rewelding them really easy because they're made of mild steel rather than stainless so much easier to work on...
  18. Mike, did you get a Hypersport flexi from the oc group buy in the end? what's the fit like? Heard they used to be a bit iffy?
  19. Ok Just to clear things up for you new guys or those who don't know much about the GT4's ECU the problem is the following. The JDM gt4 base map is set for 100ron fuel, as such it is setup with a very agressive spark advance curve, i.e. as reves rise the ecu adds a hell of a lot of advance. Now when you stick 95 ron fuel in the fuel is less able to withstand det and as a result det will start sooner than with 100ron fuel. The 3s-gte is what's called a det limited engine. This means that the maximum torque(which is what you map) you can achive on boost is limited by when the engine starts to det. Given the fact that 95 ron fuel starts to det earlier than 100ron fuel a map setup for 100ron fuel has the potential to cause a lot of det when run on 95ron fuel. Now the flip side to this that some people will arge is that the gt4 ecu has some pretty advanced knock detection and avoidance built into it, and this will stop the engine detting on 95ron fuel. To some degree this is correct however and this is the big bit in order for the ecu to pull timing and avoid det it first has to detect it, which means it has to be occuring this is massively bad for your engine. Every mapper I know or have ever talked to agreed that it is better to setup the map to aviod det and then have knock detection as an emergency back rather than to map up to det and let the knock detection correct for it. The reason behind this is that det is very effective at very quickly putting holes in pistions or destroying ringlands, even the mildest amount willeakend pistons and reduce their life considerably. FYI everyone spouting that JDM gt4's have more power than UK ones, this is down to the mapping for 100ron fuel, as soon as you put a lower grade fuel in the ecu will start pulling timing and reduce the engines power most likely to below that of a UK car if run on 95ron as the JDM ecu will be pulling to be safe where as the UK ecu will be running to map. This is further reinforced by the results of my old UK ST205 which during a GT4OC rolling road day comprehensively beat the majority of JDM cars present putting down 271BHP and 260LB/FT not bad for a stock (Low power!!) UK car... You pays your money you takes your choice... Rant over hope everyone looking to buy finds a good example and loves them as much as I do mine... :D
  20. Thought the WRC cars where random.
  21. Congratulations you get the prize for spotting the purposeful mistake... Stock size was indead 215/50R16. Most people changed to 205 as 215's are fairly rare and tend to cost more. If you going for a 225 get the 45 profile. 50's will have a huge sidewall and feel all squishy unless you put loads of pressure in them. Also the higher profile will make your rims look tiny.
  22. He got it from fennies didn't he? Do you know if it's a fennies hybrid or is it one of the HKS ball bearing ones?
  23. "New Custom Made Bar and Plate Front Mount Polished Intercooler" "Low pressure drop 0.2psi at 15psi 80 psi tested" I take it they've sourced a different core since Adam got his then, said he can't get over 1 bar with his...
  24. Turbo Torque! Gotta lov' it :P
  25. You should block both if you don't then you risk debris and crap being sucked into the intake (Don't forget you not stopping the TVSV activating your just cutting the lines running to it) and as the intake return is after the air filter it'll go straight into the compressor/engine.
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