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Do Not Sell My Personal Information


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Everything posted by Antonio2

  1. Hi Pete. I would first check that the connections to the battery are free from corrosion and secure. It would be worth disconnecting the negative connection first, and checking that the battery post and the inside of the mating surface of the connector are free from corrosion. With the negative cable still disconnected, repeat the above on the positive terminal. If OK, reconnect and secure the positive cable FIRST, followed by the negative cable. If corrosion was evident and subsequently removed, a smear of vaseline on the termination connection will be good for fending off future corrosion problems. Also check the negative connection to the chassis just aft of the battery for corrosion and that connection is good. Obviously enlist help from a competent person if not confident carrying out he above. Hope this helps
  2. Hello everyone. This week when placing a rucksack in the boot of my IQ, I inadvertently closed the hatch down on to a stray strap on the bag. When attempting to open the hatch at my destination, the hatch would not open. When reaching into the boot, to try and retrieve the bag, it was apparent that the strap was trapped. After much struggling, applying pressure to the hatch, AND pressing the boot unlock button, I did eventually manage to open the hatch. Fortunately, there was no damage to the lock. Just wondering if anybody knows if the actual tail gate lock mechanism has a "emergency release" catch. My previous car did - but in fairness, it did not have a electronic boot lock mechanism. Many thanks.
  3. Hi Gary. It would probably be prudent to access a diagnostic scanner tool, or, ask a garage to see if any fault codes are stored. If the new "Relax" warranty did cover the compressor / flow sensor, (if indeed this is the fault), I would hope that the cost of using diagnostic scanning for codes in order to confirm fault, would be covered under the warranty as well !
  4. Hi Gary. This happened on my iQ3 last year. I initially thought that the system needed a re-gas with the car being 9 years old, but my diagnostic tool revealed fault code B1479 "Flow sensor fault" (Air con gas)' Fortunately I had taken out Toyota extended warranty. I was informed that the low sensor switch is an integral part of the air- con compressor and is not available as a separate item ! Compressor was renewed as warranty claim. Fault cured.
  5. Hi Andy, both the IQ 998 and 1329cc should have spark plugs gapped at 1.0 - 1.1mm (or 39 - 43 thou imperial for old school !).
  6. Sorry, correction to above - I meant to say "check the position of the EGR take-off pipe (whether before or after cat)" - NOT the EGR valve. Apologies !
  7. Hi Chris. I don't know if you are aware, but some early (up to about early 2010 I believe), suffered from "running issues" due to the exhaust take off pipe position to the EGR valve. It only affected the 998cc engine IQ - not the 1329cc. I don't think there was an official Toyota recall. I think the modified item had the EGR gas take- off point situated AFTER the catalytic converter, whereas the original pre-mod item had the take off pipe to the EGR valve BEFORE the catalyst. It may be worth checking you car for to see if you still have the old type EGR valve fitted. Not sure if Toyota would entertain a claim after this time though. I'm hoping that some more knowledgeable IQ forum members may be able to confirm this ! Also you say that that you have cleaned your MAF sensor. The IQ 2 does not have a MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor fitted. I suspect you have cleaned the MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor which is attached to the inlet manifold. If you did have a blocked catalytic converter, a code reader would probably show codes stored.
  8. Hello all. Just thought I would share a story with you which could be of interest Aygo owners. (probably Mk 1's only) A young lady friend of mine, is the owner of a 2007 Puegeot 107, which is more or less a re-badged Aygo as you will probably know. A little while ago when driving along in town, she lost power steering assistance, and the steering warning light on the dash illuminated. She is quite young, and has never driven a car without power steering, so needless to say- it scared her a bit !! Instead of letting a garage diagnose the problem, when arriving a boy friends house, he thought it would be a good idea to disconnect the battery in order to reset the warning light. This did indeed reset the steering warning light, AND, the power steering assistance returned. All seemed good ! Believing that her friend's idea had saved her a large sum of money. She carried on using the car, thinking the problem was just a intermittent glitch. All seemed well for a few days until the same fault occurred again - without warning - no power steering + steering warning light illuminated. This time she took the car to a garage. Their diagnostic scanner flagged up a code "C1554 - power steering malfunction". The garage had experienced another 107 previously with the same fault. The problem was a faulty steering ECU. Apparently, the ECU is located above the pedals. Rather than pay a large sum of money for a new ECU, the garage sent the ECU to a test and repair specialist, who offered a life-time guarantee for the repair. The car has been fine ever since. Hope this may help if you experience the above.
  9. Antonio2

    IQ PCV valve

    Hi Tris. Just out of interest, what is the mileage on your IQ3 ? Were you experiencing engine oil consumption or gasket leaks ? I have myself in the past cleaned PC valves on my old Leyland Mini and Opel Manta, using the same method you have described above. The Toyota Tech for the IQ, advises attaching a clean pipe to each end of the valve and ensuring you can blow through from the direction of crankcase outlet - but not from the other direction. Failure of this simple test would indicate a clogged / faulty valve. The info does not suggest cleaning it, but simply to replace it. Too many short journey's where the engine temperature fails to achieve normal temperature can cause the expelled oil mist to emulsify, and clog the PCV. I doubt if any car manufacturers nowadays specify checking or cleaning the PCV - just like modern gearbox oils supposedly "filled for life". Perhaps because modern oils are far superior to the old 20W / 50 and 10W/40 oils of yesteryear and are probably less prone to this problem. It sounds as though your valve has benefitted from your cleaning. I'm assuming the valve on the IQ is just a push fit with no gaskets to renew?
  10. If unsure of the procedure regarding for changing the head-light bulbs, there is a video on You Tube which shows the procedure on a Scion (USA) IQ. It is worth noting that to access the bulbs, you need to rotate a large round black plate which rotates anti - clockwise to remove. I mention this because it can be a bit stiff to turn, and the first time you do it, you may wonder if you're actually turning it the right way ! It only turns about 1/8 turn, before it is able to be pulled off. As a note, I bought a pair of Ring Xenon Max bulbs for my IQ some time ago. They were a "bit" brighter than the original bulbs, but they lasted for about 1 year before failing. I reverted back to the type original bulbs after that. I'm not sure if the so-called "high performance" bulbs enjoy the longevity of a standard bulb.
  11. Were there any "advisories" on the previous MOT Nick? It's hard to believe that IF there were no advisories on the previous MOT - how that level of corrosion could have deteriorated to that extent within 12 months !
  12. A while ago I had an issue with my windscreen washer spray pattern. One side was spraying lower down the screen than the other. I tried using the thin needle in the nozzle outlet trick - but to no avail. I then read somewhere that the culprit is normally the tee-junction plastic housing located under the bonnet. Apparently inside the housing is an anti-drain valve which prevents the washer fluid draining back down into the washer bottle. This is to prevent a delay in the time for the washer fluid to exit the nozzles the next time the windscreen washer is operated. My T sells them for approx £18 which when you look at the part - it really is hard to justify it's cost. I bought one on Ebay for about £5. Whether it had the correct anti drain valve inside I don't know. But the plastic housing is absolutely identical to the original item. It worked fine. Hope this helps.
  13. Bearing in mind you have an OBD tool, if it's a decent spec tool (not just a basic code reader), there maybe a menu within called "live data". Using live data allows you to see various values/measurements from various sensors when the engine is running. Assuming you have the 998cc IQ you could view the values pertinent to each of the 3 individual cylinder and compare them to each other. eg fuel injection duration etc. Obviously you would need access to the technical data, in order to see if the values shown (with varying engine running conditions) are correct, or out of spec ! If one of the cylinders showed values different to the other cylinder, (with the same running conditions), this could point you in the right direction. You mentioned the fact that you had the engine and VSC warning light flashing. A failing battery can SOMETIMES cause spurious warning lights to illuminate - even if the car may appear to start ok. This can be because the drop in voltage from a "tired" battery when starting the engine, may cause the battery voltage to drop below a certain threshold, which a particular system may log as a fault condition - and then illuminate the system's warning lamp. Obviously your battery disconnection has reset the lamps. A local garage can use a dedicated battery tester to quickly establish the batteries "state of health" - not just it's terminal voltage (state of charge). I can see your IQ is a 2009 model. If your IQ is still using the original battery, it would definitely be worth getting it tested anyway. As per messages above from other members, I would also suggest a compression test would be my first check.
  14. Hi Andrew. I don't know if I'm barking up the wrong tree here. Some time ago, after returning to my IQ (with push button start), the engine wouldn't crank over when trying to start (yes I did have my foot on the clutch !) The push start button's light was flashing. I can't remember if the light was flashing red or green ! I slightly moved the steering wheel to the left. The car then started. It would appear that if the front wheels are off-centre to a certain extent when parking, the steering lock motor is unable to overcome the pressure from the steering wheel shaft being pushed against the locking motor "stop". Moving the steering wheel slightly appeared to remove this "extra loading" allowing the car to start. I don't know if this was due to a faulty steering lock motor, or if it is a normal trait. Hope this is relevant.
  15. Hi Dav. Although the 0301 code indicates a No 1 cylinder mis-fire detection, it doesn't necessarily mean that the mis-fire problem is ignition related. It could also be caused by other factors such as a cylinder compression issue, fuel injector problem, valve clearance incorrect etc - so not necessarily a faulty spark plug or ignition coil.
  16. Hi Tom If your still stuck on your IQ3 Exhaust - try the following : "astonstore .co.uk" Tel: 0208 741 8822 (fits Aston Martin Cygnet which in essence has the same underpinnings as the IQ3) Exhaust Pipe Assy, Tail Part Code: 17430-47070 £ 206 . 98 inc Vat
  17. Hi Bob. Thanks for reply. Your response infers that there may be more than one type / specification of door card/ sound insulation - hence difference in noise level. This could be part of the weight reduction required to keep the CO2 levels in check. I must admit, the only time i've personally seen the "chrome" mirror covers are on 12 plate and earlier IQ3's. I've never seen them on the 1 litre versions - nor a 62 plate or later IQ3.
  18. Hi all. Just an observation, and interested in other IQ owner opinions. My niece is the owner of a 2011 IQ2. I own 2013 IQ3 - both cars have manual transmission. Not being a fan of stop/start - (more to go wrong / more expensive battery / extra "wear and tear" on starter motor and fly-wheel etc - against the pro of negligible improved fuel economy . When buying my IQ3, I was happy to learn that the stop/start system originally fitted to the new IQ3 in 2009, had been stopped being fitted around May 2012. At the time of Toyota dropping the stop-start system on the IQ3, it would appear they also stopped fitting the plastic "chrome" door mirror covers. I can only think that this was to reduce production costs. I have noticed that my niece's IQ2 with smaller engine, is quieter on the motorway at 70mph than our 6 speed IQ3. I'm not saying the IQ3 is noisy - but just not as quiet as the older 5 speed IQ2 ! Also, when closing the door on the 2011 IQ2, it closes with that satisfying so-called "VW clunk". The door of my IQ 3 door just feels lighter and to a degree, a "tinnier" clunk when closing if that makes sense ! Despite the IQ3 having a larger engine and 6 speed gearbox - at 70 mph it cruises at APPROX 2800rpm - which is only slightly less than my niece's 5 speed IQ2 (3000rpm -ish) When the IQ3 was fitted with the stop-start system - the official CO2 emissions for the manual transmission model was 113 g /km. This obviously has a bearing on car tax cost. I'm thinking that when Toyota decided to stop the stop-start system, they had to strip some of the "excess weight", in order to keep the CO2 emissions below the "magic" 120g / km, rather than the significant cost increase of placing the non stop-start IQ 3 into the next tax banding (over 120g/km) of £110, instead of the original £30 bracket ? My non stop/start IQ3 has a CO2 rated at 119g/km - conveniently just under the 120g/km limit. The large road tax cost increase would obviously be a major draw back for sales of the already relatively expensive "city car". Perhaps this was for the UK market where car tax banding would be different from that of other countries. This is of course purely conjecture ! Needless to say, the 1.3 naturally has a bit more OOMPH performance wise. A lightweight car sporting an engine just shy of 100BHP would sound a recipe for a "pocket rocket", but in essence, I find performance is ok - certainly not exhilarating ! I suspect the "name of the game" was to keep "miles per gallon" sensible, and good emissions rather than out and out performance. Just wondering if other forum members have their own experience of driving earlier IQ' s (IQ1/2 v IQ3), compared to the later cars - regarding noise levels - especially at motorway speeds. Have you replaced your older IQ, and found your newer IQ is slightly noisier ? Not necessarily noisy, just a bit noisier. Wondering if the later models have less sound deadening than the early cars.
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