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Do Not Sell My Personal Information


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Everything posted by SB1500

  1. Interesting discussion there. But nothing to say it can be disabled. Maybe it can't be, I haven't looked into it too much to be honest. Would be interested in plugging the car in and seeing what it has listed to be honest? Too risky?
  2. Hi forum, starting this thread a little early (upon placing the order for both of these China specials)... Inspired by my time with the Mercedes CLA, I decided to give it a shot fitting some of those LED light strips to the Avensis. I've seen 80% bad jobs and poor quality parts for this, but the 20% of decent installs has me thinking I'll do this on my Avensis. And, the heated seat install too. Eventually I'll post photos of the job and Avensis specific advice. The screenshots with the purple lines drawn on, that's where I plan to fit the light strips. They'll be wired into the car for when the ignition is on only. Issue I have is the start/stop cutting these kind of circuits out, but @2009joe is going to help me in disabling the start stop altogether - with wired in accessories the risk of draining the battery is more pressing than any imaginary fuel savings. An alternative, if I can get an extra strip for the centre console, green lines: Here's the China special totally fake image of how it's supposed to look. Shows the kit: as far as I know, this isn't fibre optic, but an 'LED' strip that doesn't involve sliding a round plastic tube through a holder with a fin that squeezes between the panel gaps. This should be one integrated part - I've messaged to ask which this is and might need to cancel the order. Few videos on YouTube detailing the real cheap and nasty kind versus a new more improved solid consistent light line. There's a centre box and a bunch of sub-control boxes. Again, some of these are wirelessly connected - meaning installing them in each door without needing to route wires back to under the centre console box where I'll hide the main box. Some photos of a well-done job from UK based YouTubers on a BMW and VW: Breakdown of lights to be installed: - One large strip across the dash (left and right of steering wheel) (tuck into gaps) - 2x front footwell lights (cable tie) - 2x rear footwell lights (cable tie) - 4x door handle LED spotlights (drill) - 4x door bin LED spotlights (drill) - 4x door metal trim strips of LED How they'll be powered: A> If the is a single control box that everything must physically connect to, then a tap into the 12v lines under the centre console box. Wires can then move out under the seats, cable tied with slack and into rear doors, along the floor trim panels to the front door, and if I can manage, in through the proper pipe where the wiring goes for the door electrics. They will be fused at different points. Up through the dash on each extreme side tucked away to light the main dash line. B> Alternative, if they are all stand alone, then I can tap power from each door, under each seat (or from the centre console box near the seats) and the dash fuse box for the dash strip. I hope this is the case as if any area fails, I can replace it separately without needing to dig up the wires. Panels to be tampered with: - Each door trim piece - Dash insert panels - Fuse box compartment / glove box area - Under the two front seats Any words of advice / warning / questions? I will post more once the parts come. Let me know if projects like this are interesting enough to be posted regularly about 🙂
  3. Not to hijack the thread, but when it comes to my tyres its between the PS4/5's, Primacy and CrossClimate. Reason being, I had the PS3's then PS4's on my DS3, and it was a phenomenal experience, it had 17" wheels (sorta big for the size/class of car) and relatively low profile tyres. The suspension / ride was harsh. The steering, though hardly anything sharp or outstanding from that car, was phenomenal in terms of tyre grip. It really really stuck to the road, even at speeds or sudden turns that would be best advised with more caution. I'm convinced they saved my life numerous times! Now, I had a Fiat Panda before this for comparison, which leaned even when you just casually day dreamed about turning a corner! lol Before I parted with the DS3, I got CrossClimate 2's on. Because of all the great press and being able to drive even in snow / winter conditions seemed good to me. But the first night I went around a decent sized round about around 30mph, and they felt like when you walk on the edge of your shoes and the car jerked rough as I drove out of it. They did NOT like speed around bends at all and it the difference took my by surprise. I really don't understand the Primacy, other than the A / A rating. Surely, if you're willing to give up the benefits of a winter tyre and have a summer, the PS4/5 is the way to go? Especially as they're also good rated in the rain. Major issue being, they all seem to cost the same £150-£168 regardless of Kwik-Fit / Black Circles. It's surely the same for OP on the Auris too, it'd be easier if the Primacy's for example, were around the £120 or less mark, you could give up the handling of the PS and the capability of the CC 2's to save a buck. But they're all premium. I don't know which to go for. I won't go on about the Avensis in particular as this isn't my thread. But interested how the above paradox might seem to you guys, and maybe will be of use to OP as well in his search for new tyres. But I'd say Michelin is the one to stick with, it's cool to know Toyota fitted those to his Auris from factory!
  4. When I price them for my Avensis, there’s a few £ difference so I’ll probably go for the PS4 or PS5’s. Only thing is the Primacy has A rating for both rain and fuel. Think PS’s sacrifice some fuel economy for the cornering. I’ve budget tyres on since I got the car in Jan. surprisingly they’re a good enough job. Might just be the car itself handles better. But either way I really want to see what the PS4’s are like. If not worth it I’ll probably go primacy. at this price you can pretty much buy any other brand. I’ve heard some good stuff about Good Year and Dunlop’s competing tyres but one common remark on all the reviews seems to be that the Michelins last long and they perform near as good as always until they get wore down to the legal limit
  5. Hard to beat Michelin. Pilot Sport 4's are phenomenal performance and long lasting. Only thing they're not so good at is ice / snow.
  6. Stunning. Building on an already great car. I love that saloon body style, hope they keep that around!
  7. I'm an Apple guy myself, but I miss the days about ten years ago when you could do the odd upgrade yourself! Everything's soldered together now. I noticed with Windows laptops, since around 2016 the CPUs on laptops are all trying to be so efficient that they want to just sit idle. And doing something - anything - like opening a browser which sucks more voltage will immediately send the fans into top speed for a few seconds. This is on inexpensive machines, not sure about the high end, when I'm talking that money it goes to Apple lol
  8. Ahh, no matter what’s under the bonnet they’ll always be able to do the hideous alloys, bolt on spoilers and all that jazz. I suppose the loud exhaust will be a thing of the past, but maybe they’ll copy VAG and install computer sound files that replicate exhausts. They’re already at the remapping with the engine cars. And then they wonder why their engines blow up a few months later. Usually because they increase the power through put, without upping the strength and capability of all the other components … but with electrics, I wonder if they will do better due to having less parts? then again, I have a friend who builds PCs - who is always ‘over clocking’ them. Some processors are designed to handle this. Others aren’t - but you can do it anyway, once one of his builds caught fire… nothing serious followed but even the electronics had their limits when pushed
  9. Definitely Joe. Same here. I’m actually surprised my car had the diesel filter done since some Toyota sources say 4/6 years for the scheduled replacement. My car came with no service history (not even Toyota services in year 2/3 for the warranty) as it was owned by a lease company who assumably did it’s own servicing - and evidently, had no idea how to go about properly doing the diesel filter on this Avensis where the filter was quietly changed in later years of production. I think there’s one invoice for a service around the time it was sold to the trade and even then it was an oil and filter change. I’m telling you, that cabin filter was black as night and easily 3 years old when I replaced it earlier this year. But I bet someone paid for a new one at least two times … I don’t trust mechanics in my area because of my experience. As far as I’m concerned, when friends or family tell me they know a great mechanic, that’s only because they have no idea what a reasonable cost is, or how they’re being screwed - blissful ignorance. Sure, sure, they can’t all be like that and I’m sure they aren’t. But I’m yet to meet an honest one myself, personally speaking. I do think I’ll lease a car down the line. Especially with it being unclear if hybrids, electric or whatever will stick. Let the long term reliability and condition be their problem - not mine. Hand it back any time circumstances change etc. until then, it’s a blast getting the hands dirty keeping the engine and car in tip top condition. And what a privilege it is as imaginable, my kids generation - definitely theirs - will grow up and never experience cars with engines or some of the good old motor mechanic-ing we’ve all had passed to us from the older generation and watched evolve from decade to decade.
  10. I have to admit, I’m learning a hell of a lot here from this discussion. I’m hearing some of the thoughts I think myself, and then some counter arguments, and then responses to those. Actually very very insightful as a 26y/o interested in where we’re genuinely headed in terms of car technology. And rare to find online discussions that are productive and full of real world info even where people disagree. So glad I joined this forum.
  11. Well, £80 later for what felt like not very much… I have replaced the pipe with a new genuine part (£41~). Put back the rubber round mount in the plastic beauty cover over the engine (which I think rattled big time under vibration without it). Added the plastic cage clip around one of the fuel lines which was missing due to a past filter change. And popped in two of those little plastic clips that now holds down the plastic scuttle trim under the windscreen on both sides. basically, it seems like someone changed the diesel filter in the past and they butchered the engine bay in their attempt. They pulled the two sides of the scuttle trim up, breaking / losing those clips. And they put the metal Sheild over the diesel filter on backwards, and lost the little protective cage that goes around the rear line. The car would have been fine without all of this, but I just want it 100% right. The way I see it, with mass produced cars, if Toyota or anyone could have saved a few pennies by NOT including these plastic parts, you bet they’d have took the chance. They must be there for a reason - and now they are.
  12. Thanks both of you. This is good to know. The grid is a lot better than I gave it credit for then. do you both think electric is here to stay then?
  13. I can't believe nobody talks about the fact that most of the electricity generated for electric cars is going to come from gas and coal power stations... renewable sources (except nuclear) just can't provide practically for an entire nation, even one as relatively small as the UK. Other than emissions in cities like London, and on some models, a fun to drive experience, are there any actual advantages? Everything else is a drawback.
  14. On the tinny matter, a friends mum has a 2018 Ford Fiesta with the eco boost engine. It's a high spec 3 door thing (sunroof, CarPlay, heated seats and steering wheel and ambient lights). Other than getting around 40 something MPG (appalling for a car this size imo), it's a nice car. Shutting the passenger door is tinny as hell. Literally sounds like smacking a radiator but more hollow. The drivers door is even worse. I don't know if it's the long big empty doors or the massive space inside the 3-door sidewalls being really empty and echoing. I don't remember the former Fiesta, or Corsa's in our family over the years having this kind of tinny effect. My old Fiat Panda (well, 2017) was far more solid in terms of shutting doors and that was about as small and cheap as I thought new cars came.
  15. I haven't done this personally, but if you check this link, it will show you the part numbers. You could then search Google for the hinges etc, see them up close, and be able to make a plan of action from there? https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/genuine/parts?c=Toyota&ssd=%24*KwGVobCUkOfLwsPc-fCEqc3Z-f7gkZ6TkoCGhcPm2oLO0oOZ3Kal6YSNgs7Vg5nco66W5O-XkeqQk7vA3ZCVl5eFioPAndLWhZSWk5KQkYHS0oHEhJuC8PH1kcnAvorn5Obi__aB0tKKzsKDmp6RjYGIk86dhJeSkfGD3gAAAAA0Jj2M%24&vid=0&gid=951&q=SB1BN76L10E017367 If the link won't open properly, put your Avensis VIN in there and it'll bring up the parts diagrams for every thing. Very handy site. Good luck
  16. Update having done the job today... My Avensis has had the diesel filter done before... a Blueprint filter came out. Unsure why anyone would have done it sooner than 4 years / 52,000 miles when I got it, but it was replaced - unless Toyota use this brand from factory but I can't imagine they do? I broke two scuttle trim clips taking it off annoyingly... Does anyone here know if the scuttle trim has two clips or bolts from factory on the edges? I have two empty holes on both sides and I suspect someone has maybe lost them unless everyone else is the same. The rubber on this piece of trim on the passenger side is also missing all of its little white clips that keep it secure..I'm going to price this from the dealer in the interest of keeping the car right. The two clips I broke mean it's loose other than the bonnet holding it down. The little black metal cover over the fuel filter, I strongly believe was put on the wrong way around (the bolt holes are diagonal so I think that is possible) as it was incredibly tight and hard to reach in and get the back bolt off compared to on the videos (one side is slanted down to allow access for this, and sits facing the inside of the car). The fuel lines have two little plastic cages around them, mine was missing the back one for some reason... Another part to get from Toyota if they can find me it. Now, the real mess was there is a short little breather hose from the engine to the air filter box pipe. I tried a few ways of getting access to the rear of the metal guard over the diesel filter and part of that was unclipping that little breather hose. Only for it to have snapped on one side and crack - it was incredibly brittle. I tried to duct tape it temporarily but as I bent it into place, the rest of it snapped too... disaster. I took it out only to find that it is indeed a BMW part, a crappy ill designed brittle cheap plastic part that, had it flexed as it was intended to, wouldn't have been an issue. We happened to have a pipe around of the exact same diameter and with a glue gun were able to make a DIY job (for now). I hope this isn't an expensive part from Toyota. I lost a rubber mounting from the plastic engine cover too, which is annoying as hell but totally on me. I'll order this too, to keep the car right... but I am raging about that breather hose breaking. one more important note... Unlike the videos online, the 2017 onwards diesel D4D 1.6 engine in the Avensis has a paper filter as I explained in my post above, you don't just disconnect the whole metal assembly and refit an entirely new one. You need to open it, by twisting the top. I recommend a vice to hold it, and to use a screwdriver against a metal fin and a notch on the 'lid' part. It will twist around, UNTIL, a metal fin which holds an electrical wire is literally bang in the way - physically impossible. BEND this back gently, but then you find... it hits another part. Bent it a little more, to get the lid off. You'll then see the pool of diesel inside. If you're careful, don't lose any. Wear gloves, put a rag on the ground below and slowly gently pull out the old filter. Have a basin to put it in because it will drip diesel all over the table. Take the rubber seal off the 'lid' part, and fit the new one. Push the new filter into the metal canister. WEAR GOGGLES OR GO VERY SLOW! This will squirt diesel right up through the new filter, quite possible into your eyes or mouth. I was lucky it didn't, but push very slowly to avoid this. This isn't something shown or needed on the other design used on earlier D4D BMW engines or on any of the videos I could find. Please be prepared.
  17. That's perfect guys, cheers. So like most new cars, let the dealer service it to keep the warranty in tact. And even then it's the same as any petrol car, with the added need to just let Toyota do their battery health check even after warranty once per year to keep the hybrid / battery warranty valid? (I'm assuming there is an extended warranty on the hybrid / battery system that goes beyond the 5 years?)
  18. Hi forum, my aunt just got a late 2020 GR Sport Corolla. It's a phenomenal car having had a look and a drive in it, kicking myself I never spent more and bought myself a Hybrid Auris now (since the Corollas are still a bomb to buy!). We usually do all the servicing and repairs ourselves, not that their old Yaris needed anything more than brakes and servicing before being wrote off. Now with this new 1.8 petrol engine and Hybrid system, what sort of servicing can we do ourselves, and what is best left to our local Toyota dealer? I have heard that so long as you get the Hybrid battery service, you can't go wrong in the long term with the warranty covering any catastrophic failures (not that I've heard of any). How often is the Hybrid battery service needed? every year or every few? Other than that, as for oil changes and the likes, is that all the same as any engine, DIY and similar enough procedure? Or are these new beasts truly best left to the dealer?
  19. You'd need to check with a Toyota dealer or if there are any Japan-centric brand / Toyota breaker yards around who would know off the top of their head. I can imagine the sheet metal door will fit, but the electric connectors may be different over time, and the join between the front of the interior door card trim (where it meets the side of the dashboard) might not fit since our facelift T27 models have a much more modern dash, there might be a different fit to the door? Good luck and please share for future reference once you find the answer. Ps, we tried pulling the dent out of the back door of a 2010 Peugeot 3008 (an old beat up one) and because of the position of the crash protection bar inside, it wasn't as easy / simple as we thought. So sometimes a new door probably is unavoidable.
  20. Hi guys, thought I'd share something I noticed this week. I bought a genuine fuel filter for my 2018 D4D 1.6 Avensis diesel at my local Toyota dealer. I had watched a few videos online showing how to replace the filter on these last facelift models with the BMW engines and it was a metal canister style filter in all of the 3-4 detailed videos on YouTube. When I opened the box from my dealer, I noticed what I have is a round cylinder like paper-fin filter and rubber ring/gasket - NOT the metal canister. I initially thought this was a mistake but looking at the MAHLE part catalogue I can see until 02/2017 the old style was used and after this, the paper element insert only. Anybody else noticed this? I can't find a tutorial on the new style but I assume it won't be too different (same spot / bolts needed to release it). I wonder what the design change was made for..
  21. So I got the windows tinted on Friday, originally set out for 20% to be safe but lat minute decided to go with 5%. I’m shocked by how well it looks to be honest, it wouldn’t be to everyone’s taste but I like how shady it is inside now.
  22. I know - it'd be a hateful proposition. I did a lot to my last car as well, all to waste. The whole idea of doing all this maintenance - and going a little OTT was to keep the car for its lifetime. I'd not accept any less than I bought it for (12k) but I'd still be at a near £700 loss when you add up the service, brakes, fluid changes, etc. That's true. My only real fear would be covered up structural damage, but there is no hard evidence of that. So far, it's 50/50 if the car has been damaged up the side (perhaps hit a wall or something when parking, or another car brushed it) though it'd be a mystery to me why that scuttle panel was replaced. There is an original Toyota etched windscreen too, I suspect a cracked one would be replaced with an Autoglass special no-name part - and even a minor bash would probably crack the windscreen. But it appears original. I'm glad you say that about the marking - in my mind, I couldn't see why the factory would do this at all. I'll definitely get a look at Joe's sometime when we eventually get a meet. I reckon since it's a used car, superficial repairs would be considered reasonable (so long as not structural) so I wouldn't be able to argue that. I'll give this a go if it comes back. I have to admit, Toyota's Airco cleaner has worked so far. I'm impressed. It's a very clinical chemical smell but one that isn't too overbearing (like a Turtle Wax spray produce I used) but it smells like there are serious agents at work in that foam. I sprayed inside each of the vents (the instructions didn't say to so that was my chancery), but my idea was this would kill any bacteria or gunk that found its way inside - I'm thinking the under seat vents someone might have spilled something inside of in the past. So far it's working but I'll report back if my original smell problem comes back. For £14 - if it works - I think that's a bargain. It's a Toyota branded product, but I suspect 'Airco cleaner' is made by another company who white labels it out to Toyota and other names. But the approval from Toyota as a dealer treatment means a lot to fussy owners like me.
  23. Scotty Kilmer is a legend, big Toyota fan too. The spray cans are ok but the stuff I got was genuine Toyota stuff the dealers use, and gets right into the evaporator / condenser (or some part of the system that sounds complicated) lol
  24. Since buying the car there's been a bit of a rotten smell which goes away after the first start of the day. I changed the cabin filter a couple of months ago, since the smell might have been related to that... but nope, still there. I bought some Toyota Airco Cleaner spray from the Burrow's eBay store - genuine stuff. Removed the plastic scuttle panel on the passenger side to find the air intake. That's where this particular bottle says it must be put in (I saw the videos on YouTube showing a different two part genuine air con cleaner but couldn't find it in the UK). The little hose went right in, and it said to spray the entire bottle. Problem was, half way through it foamed up to coming out of the intake - I let it go a while, then decided to spray some into the deepest part of each interior air vent (that might not have been recommended) including those under the two front seats. Then you wait 30-45 mins for it to drain out as a liquid - which it did from under the car from the AC system drain pipe. Whether or not it works, I will report back. The car sure does smell fresh (if not a little strong with chemicals). Second part is whilst doing this and waiting, I cleaned up all around the intake and the scuttle panel itself and discovered some blue markings under the part... This is making me think the car has been rebuilt frankly. I've had some doubts this year to be honest and I posted the other day about the paint being a bit funny looking on the lower side doors... Surely nobody at the Burnaston factory was walking around with a blue marker numbering parts to go on mass produced cars?! Question is... does this give me enough proof to potentially reject the car? If it's damaged and repaired - whether the independent used car dealer knew it or not - I feel this is sufficient grounds to reject the car. Why would this rarely replaced panel have ever needed replaced? I don't particularly want to part with the car having put £400 into brakes, £100+ into servicing and things like that. My uncle said even if it has been damaged and repaired, it's been done so to the point where the cars running perfect, driving perfect so it'll never bite me in the ***** down the line like some botch jobs might... BUT it's sort of the principle. A Category S/D/whatever car would be a few grand less than one that's 'fine'. Should I dispute this? 4/6 months warranty so far.. had the car around 3 months now. They still have some obligation to me, and also the Consumer Rights Act (or Sale of Goods Act) I'm sure covers situations like this? ...and finally, I cleaned up the scuttle plates with some bug and tar remover, wiped down to clean and some trim gel rubbed on to keep it black and fresh looking (albeit surely not for too long).
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