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Do Not Sell My Personal Information


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  1. Not sure if this would be of any interest to anyone on here being the wrong Marque and all that. But thought I shall post it just in case. Sadly, needing a house deposit means sale of my Capri. A Brief rundown/spec: Fully restored and engine rebuilt ready for use in August 2019. Used for about 500 miles since. 2.9 Cosworth conversion with rebuilt engine including new timing chain, guides and water pump. Stand-alone megasquirt ECU including new wiring loom fitted. Electric fan fitted and wired to ECU to be temperature controlled from ECU sensors. MT75 Hybrid gearbox (oil change/service before fitting) LSD From a 2.8 injection special GTR260 front brake kit inluding uprated landrover master cylinder Custom downpipe/Y-piece exhaust into single-exit system. Half-leather seats and door cards from Injection Special model. Custom 2.9 cosworth boot decal 'Spares Package' includes: Genuine RS motorsport front spoiler 15x8 ET10 Schmidt Modernline alloys (same style as Revo RFX alloys) Various spare interior parts (clocks, seat belts, winder handles etc) Bought this Capri back in 2007 as my first car, started as a daily driver then culminating in the 10year project to get it to where it is now. Sadly, as life goes on priorities change, and having not really had the time or oppurtunity to enjoy the car since restoration due to Covid lockdowns I have decided its probably best to let the car now go to someone who can enjoy it, whilst I focus on building a future for the family! Due to a dash clocks change the milage reading is incorrect, but from what I had logged from the other clocks etc mileage is 71,000. Though taking the restoration into account, mileage is less than 1,000 since the work was complete. I'm hoping to have a week off in the middle of April to get a few little things finished, take some decent photos, and get it MOT'd. Or can be taken as-is but I will get the MOT on it beforehand. I'd say its 99% there, but sadly I dont have the time, space, or tools to do the final few jobs (I reckon less than a days work fustratingly!). I have all the images and (painful)invoices from the restoration to go with the car, and also most of the old MOTs and original booklets. Insurance valuation is currently over £20k (and about to be re-valuated for the insurance that has just been freshly put on it last week). Looking for £16,500 o.n.o Breaks my heart to sell it, but I know it is for the best
  2. Sadly there isnt too much you can do about orangle peel, a lot of it now is down to price vs quality and water based paints that are used now.
  3. Thought id add this as an example of doing the "full works" version. Works best on black😁 (sadly some dust from the garage had decided to make a new home by this point!)
  4. As the others have said, no need to wait for warmup. I have an older car with a oil pressure guage thats direct wired to the dash via a pipe from the oil system, can confirm that 20 seconds is enough to be at full oil pressure and safe to drive on. Just dont boot it till the water temp has been at normal levels for a few mins.
  5. If im in a rush, its given a once over with my pure water window cleaning equipment 😄 Normally a shampoo then Bilt Hamber double speed wax. If I have time, I'd add a polymer-ceramic coat before the wax. If I have a lot of time then a full clean, decontamination, polish, ceramic and wax. But ideally, some form of wax, whether built in or purpose-built is very important, especially after a polish, got to keep a protective barrier to keep the paintwork tip top😉
  6. Not sure what you lot do when you drive to get that kind of mpg 🤪 Our T25 2.2D4D is sitting over 50mpg quite happilly. And my old 1.9 PD Skoda averaged over 56mpg, And the wife's old Mk1 Yaris D4D wouldn't go below 62mpg no matter what you did to it😄 even averaged 29mpg in my old S-type and that was a 3L V6 petrol with an auto box. Might be worth looking at maintainence regime (especially for binding brakes and tyre pressure/alignment) but also driving technique, how far you look/read ahead, in gear coasting rather than braking etc. Also, ignore any shift up warnings on the dash, they really dont help in the real world. You want to roughly be between 1500-2500rpm, needing more throttle due to load/hills etc = be at the higher RPM. Also remember a TD is most efficient at WOT, so if you need to accelerate get it done quick😉
  7. From a quick search I came up with this information: C2: Mid SAPS-Level engine oils, C2 oils are intended for use as catalyst compatible Oil at extended Drain Intervals that are designed to be capable of using low viscosity Oils with a minimum HTHS Viscosity of 2.9 mPa*s. C3: Again, Mid SAPS-Level, the main difference between C2 & C3 engine oils are C3’s are designed to be capable of using oils with a minimum HTHS Viscosity of 3.5 mPa*s. So the difference is a viscosity compatability on the engine of 0.6 mPa thicker oil. So I would think C3 would be ok unless you are in a very cold climate, then C2 would most likely be better.
  8. Hi all, Hoping someone might be able to help.... Just bought the car recently and been giving it a going over, and noticed that there is a lot of oil leaking down the back of the engine and seems to be starting from the PCV breather pipe that goes to the air intake from the Rocker cover end (the pipe circled red in this picture i nabbed from elsewhere on the forum, but the other end https://toyotaowners.b-cdn.net/uploads/monthly_08_2015/post-125194-0-57616800-1439662348.jpg) Could it just be a simple case of the pipe not seating/sealing properly, or have I got a more expensive issue to think about?
  9. For the brake dust/iron oxide, something like Bilt-Hamber Korrosol or Auto-Wheel works a treat, spray on, agitate, let it sit for 5-10mins then wash off. Makes all the oxide water soluble so it rinses away, no more dirty hands from trying to clean the wheels😉
  10. Welcome to Toyota Owners Club - Toyota Forum. Please feel free to browse around and get to know the others. Why not introduce yourself in the New Members section.

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