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BALIKBAYAN last won the day on August 13 2015

BALIKBAYAN had the most liked content!

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    Corolla DX -84, Avensis 2004, Starlet 97
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  1. I watched the whole video, but I did not get if they liked the car or not. I got a feeling that they did not like it though. In my opinion the car looked very nice. It is an old model and it was in a very good condition. I was surprised that it had the steering wheel on the right side. I thought it would have been on the left. I would say that it must have been an import car from Japan. It looked like the drivers door was locked when they where driving. It was quite anoying that the guy behind the camera was talking too.
  2. Which colour has the smoke? The colour tells you what the problem might be.
  3. I don't know if it is the same torque on the T25 Avensis as it is on your newer Avensis, but I would guess it would be almost the same. Here is the torques for the T25 Avensis. Union bolt at the hose 29Nm Bleeder plug 10 Nm Caliper 30 Nm (According to Toyota workshop manual Non reusable part) Bracket 102 Nm Using a torque wrench is always much better than not using it. There are nice 3/8 torque wrenches that will be just fine when doing the brakes. I have several torque wrenches 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 in different torque ranges. I use the one that will manage the job best. I would not use any locking compound on the bolts. When you will need to loose those bolts again you will need more torque to loosen them than you should. It might damage the bolts. Then you have lots of old locking compound in the threads in the holes that needs to be removed before retightening it again.
  4. That sounds strange those bolts have only 30 Nm in torque.
  5. Waqs, how did the changing of front pads go? If you have the Haynes manual for the T22 Avensis it is very well described in that book. The brakes are a very vital part of the car. If you are not 100% sure how to do it, don't do it. Here is a transfer link to a pdf from Toyota Avensis workshop manual showing all the components and torques used to the front brakes. It is also arrows that show where to put special brake grease.
  6. How did you manage to see the cracks? I tried to see if my Avensis had cracks in the hinges yesterday when I cleaned inside the car after the winter. I opened all 4 doors as much it was possible. I heard some noise from the drivers door. I took a can of Valvoline white grease and sprayed the hinge on that door. I have done that to the hinges when I have heard some noise from the hinges since I bought the car 2012. I will try again later to day. Maybe I should use the phone as a "tool" ...
  7. I am glad that I could help you.
  8. Mark, thanx for telling me wich engine you have. Here are three pdf files that might help you.********IbnpZNDg I hope that you will solve your problems with these pdf files. They are from the workshop manual Toyota use. I bought it a few years ago on a cd from e-bay. It is very helpful to have it when working on the car. The transfer link is only valid until 12 th of April.
  9. The easiest way is to get an obd reader. There are several cheap obd readers on e-bay. It would be great if you also wrote wich engine it is you have in your car. I checked in the workshop manual for the T25 Avensis, but all different engines have air flow meters according to wiring diagrams and not MAP-sensors as you might have problems with.
  10. I have been driving the car for a week now and the fuel consumption has gone back to its normal 8 lit/100 km instead of 9,7 lit/ 100km. I meassured the old discs and they are 24,1 mm thick. The min limit is 24,0 mm. I also took out the pistons from the old calipers and the pistons were quite worn. I understand why the brakes were sticking.
  11. I used E85 in my Carina E from 1996 for a while. It was no problems with any hoses or o-rings. The problem with that fuel was that the car was very difficult to start in the winter. It got quite thirsty on E85 too, but the fuel is "greener" than petrol is. I changed to another fuel pressure regulator to use E85. I had a slightly higher fuel pressure than on petrol. I also adjusted the timing, ethanol burns slower and needs longer time to combust. It was possible to drive that car with up to 50% mix of e85 and petrol with no problems and adjustments with the engine. I stoped using e85 in that car because it was too difficult to start in the wintertime. The fuel economy was not good on e85, but with a mix about 50% it got better fueleconomy and as the e85 was a bit cheaper than petrol the fuel cost / km was lower than on petrol when using that mix. I changed the head gasket after I had used e85 in that car and the cylinders and valves were all ok. I had the 4A-FE leanburn engine in that car.
  12. I will double check next time when I refuel the car (anyday next week) if we have E5 or E10 here in Sweden. I tried to find the answer from internet, but I am not sure if it is E5 or E10 at the petrolstations here. I know I have read it at the pump, but that is something you read and don't remember it. Joyne, in wich country are you driving on E10? It might be good to know if and when this corona stuff goes away and we might go for a long drive with the car.
  13. I spent this morning in the garage with the car and changed the brake discs, pads and also the brake calipers. I forced my son to do it with me. He must learn how to do rather easy things with a car as he will soon start to learn how to drive a car. I noticed when I spent an hour to check that the caliper was not to rusty to remove the other week that the piston in the caliper was very much in need of love. I have not been out driving anything except for a short testrun down to the local beach a few minutes away. The center of the discs were cold after that short testrun with some extra tests that the brakes were ok. I hope I will make a longer testrun tomorrow. Niels, I wish I had read your message about the hoses on the brakelines. I didn't think of that. I saw that the hoses looked ok on the outside when I inspected the brakes the other week.
  14. Mrfixer, I believe that it is the 1 AZ-FSE engine that doesn't like the E10 petrol, not the 1AZ-FE engine. They are very look a like almost like twins, but the major difference is that the FSE engine has an additional high pressure fuel pump (up to ca 150 Bar). Konrad, those seals in the fuel line is only supposed to be changed, when you are doing something with the fuelsystem. As the h.p fuelpump is bolted to the cylinder head cover it means what ever you are going to do with the engine you have to dismantle the fuel system.
  15. What might happen with the engine (1az-fse) if it runs on E10? The 1 az-fse engine has a high pressure fuelpump and the fuel pressure can reach 150 Bar in the fuelsystem. It must be something with that high pressure and the ethanol. The hose from the fuelpump to the highpressure pump looks lika any fuelhose. From the high pressure pump to the injectors it is pipes. There are several o-rings etc on the pipeconnections. I doubt that those rubber rings etc would mind if it is any ethanol or not in the fuel. I used pure e85 in my old carina e with the 4a-fe leanburn engine. I had to adjust the fuel pressure and the timing, but it got very thirsty and I had to pay more per distance than I did on 95 oktane petrol. The cheapest fuel for that engine was to mix about 60 % petrol and 40 % e85. If it was more than 50 % e85 the engine had problems. It was terrible to start during winter with e85 too.