BALIKBAYAN

Registered Member
  • Content Count

    377
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

BALIKBAYAN last won the day on August 13 2015

BALIKBAYAN had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

8 Neutral

About BALIKBAYAN

  • Rank
    Advanced Club Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Magnus
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Toyota Model
    Corolla DX -84, Avensis 2004, Starlet 97
  • Toyota Year
    2004
  • Location
    Other/NonUK

Recent Profile Visitors

5,399 profile views
  1. I used E85 in my Carina E from 1996 for a while. It was no problems with any hoses or o-rings. The problem with that fuel was that the car was very difficult to start in the winter. It got quite thirsty on E85 too, but the fuel is "greener" than petrol is. I changed to another fuel pressure regulator to use E85. I had a slightly higher fuel pressure than on petrol. I also adjusted the timing, ethanol burns slower and needs longer time to combust. It was possible to drive that car with up to 50% mix of e85 and petrol with no problems and adjustments with the engine. I stoped using e85 in that car because it was too difficult to start in the wintertime. The fuel economy was not good on e85, but with a mix about 50% it got better fueleconomy and as the e85 was a bit cheaper than petrol the fuel cost / km was lower than on petrol when using that mix. I changed the head gasket after I had used e85 in that car and the cylinders and valves were all ok. I had the 4A-FE leanburn engine in that car.
  2. I will double check next time when I refuel the car (anyday next week) if we have E5 or E10 here in Sweden. I tried to find the answer from internet, but I am not sure if it is E5 or E10 at the petrolstations here. I know I have read it at the pump, but that is something you read and don't remember it. Joyne, in wich country are you driving on E10? It might be good to know if and when this corona stuff goes away and we might go for a long drive with the car.
  3. I spent this morning in the garage with the car and changed the brake discs, pads and also the brake calipers. I forced my son to do it with me. He must learn how to do rather easy things with a car as he will soon start to learn how to drive a car. I noticed when I spent an hour to check that the caliper was not to rusty to remove the other week that the piston in the caliper was very much in need of love. I have not been out driving anything except for a short testrun down to the local beach a few minutes away. The center of the discs were cold after that short testrun with some extra tests that the brakes were ok. I hope I will make a longer testrun tomorrow. Niels, I wish I had read your message about the hoses on the brakelines. I didn't think of that. I saw that the hoses looked ok on the outside when I inspected the brakes the other week.
  4. Mrfixer, I believe that it is the 1 AZ-FSE engine that doesn't like the E10 petrol, not the 1AZ-FE engine. They are very look a like almost like twins, but the major difference is that the FSE engine has an additional high pressure fuel pump (up to ca 150 Bar). Konrad, those seals in the fuel line is only supposed to be changed, when you are doing something with the fuelsystem. As the h.p fuelpump is bolted to the cylinder head cover it means what ever you are going to do with the engine you have to dismantle the fuel system.
  5. What might happen with the engine (1az-fse) if it runs on E10? The 1 az-fse engine has a high pressure fuelpump and the fuel pressure can reach 150 Bar in the fuelsystem. It must be something with that high pressure and the ethanol. The hose from the fuelpump to the highpressure pump looks lika any fuelhose. From the high pressure pump to the injectors it is pipes. There are several o-rings etc on the pipeconnections. I doubt that those rubber rings etc would mind if it is any ethanol or not in the fuel. I used pure e85 in my old carina e with the 4a-fe leanburn engine. I had to adjust the fuel pressure and the timing, but it got very thirsty and I had to pay more per distance than I did on 95 oktane petrol. The cheapest fuel for that engine was to mix about 60 % petrol and 40 % e85. If it was more than 50 % e85 the engine had problems. It was terrible to start during winter with e85 too.
  6. I checked the temperatures at the center of the wheels this morning when I arrived at work. The rear wheels was cold, about 20 degrees. The left front wheel was slighty warmer, about 30 degrees. The right front disc was warm, between 50 and 60 degrees. That should mean that the problem is the right front disc. I had planned to change the discs next month, but I guess I have to do it this week instead. I will try to get a new pair of discs tomorrow. If I can't get the discs this week I will not be able to do the work until the end of this month. I will keep you updated if the fuelconsumption will be better after the change of front discs.
  7. You get what you pay for is an old truth... I will remember klarius.eu . Thanx.
  8. Thanx for your answers. No, I have not checked the fuelfilter. As the fuel filter is not supposed to be changed and is placed in the fueltank I did not think of it as becoming dirty as the new fuel might rinse the filter and keep the dirt in the plastictank. . That was interesting about the catalyst collapsing. I guess it is 2 years ago I changed the catalyst. It is a combined catalyst and exhaust manifold. It has a special name, maniverter I believe it was called. It was not that expensive and it was supposed to be a perfect fit, but it was not. If I remember correctly it was made by BM catalyst. I bought a new rear exhaust pipe last autumn and since then the car has sounded like it is a huge hole in the exhaust pipe, but I can't find any. It was a cheap german brand (Vegaz) I have not heard about before. I bought it from Autodoc. It was very difficult to find a new rear exhaustpipe here in Sweden last autumn. I asked the local Toyota garage and the price they asked for that exhaustpipe it must have been made of gold or something. I will try to remember to put my hand on the wheel centers tomorrow after driving to work. I think they will be ok though. But I will give an update tomorrow evening.
  9. Hi everyone, The problem started about a month ago. I refueled the car at the local petrolstation after a long daytrip (about 450 km in darkness heavy winds and rain) and the next day the car was very tired and felt powerless. I refueled the car again a few days ago (Thursday and I also checked the tirepressure) and today when we went out for a walk in the wood it was more than power less. It was not possible to increase the speed from 70 Km/h to 100 km/h on the 5th gear. Nothing happened when I pressed down the accelerator. I had to shift to 3rd gear to be able to accelerate. My average fuelconsumption has been around 8 l/100km since I bought the car sep 2012. You will find it on www.fuelly.com. The last refill was about 10 l/100km!!! That is a huge increase in fuelconsumption. The car is old now and my wife want us to get a newer car, but I believe it has lot to give yet. I spent some time in the garage this afternoon, because I wanted to find out what is wrong with the car. I made a compression test. All values are ok. They are slightly below max pressure and the difference between the cylinders are within the 1 bar limit. The sparkplugs looked fine, I would have been surprised if they didn't because I changed plugs 2 ½ months ago. I listened to the engine too and it sounded nice, almost like music to the ears. My theory is that it is something wrong with the fuel, because the problems started the day after I had refueled the car. How will I get my theory accepted by the petrolstation? I need to change the front brakediscs soon. I believe it is 6 years since I changed those. That is an acceptable life for the discs. I have not noticed that the brakes are on and the car doesn't loose speed when driving down hill. Does anyone out there have any other theories of what it might be with the car. Please, I need some real good advise right now. Next time I will refuel at another petrolstation and hopefully the problem might be solved.
  10. Here is an update on how to check the valve clearance on the 1AZ-FSE engine. The gaskets needed to the fuel system is only found at Toyota, and they where quite expensive. Well I also bought a new camshaft cover gasket and a gasket to the camchain tensioner if needed. The camshaft cover gasket was very needed as the old was very old. I spent long time trying to remove the contact to the fuelpump under the backseat to discharge the fuel pressure. I didn't manage to do that. Then I remembered that I read in the old Haynes book about the Carina E I once had that you could remove a fuse instead to do it an alternate way. I removed the IG2 fuse and made some starts to get rid of the fuel pressure. It was rather easy to access everything. After removing the airinlet duct the high pressure pipe became very easy to unbolt. It was very difficult to get it back with the new o-ring and 3 different backup rings. I need to get me a new torque wrench as I don't have any for torques between 20 and 40 Nm. Most of the torques on the fuel system was around 30 Nm. I had trouble to see if I where on the TDC. The markings where not clear, or at least difficult to see. But it looked like I was on the TDC both on the markings on the belt pulley and on the camshafts. I double checked with the workshop manual in the computer and also in the Haynes book for the T22 Avensis as they came with 1AZ-FSE engine in the end. The valve clearance was all within the tolerance. I was surprised that one inlet valve and one exhaust valve was on their min values. I would not be surprised if it had been their max values. I understand that Toyota say that valve clearance checks is made by listening on the valves every 90 000 km, as it took me a couple of hours (4-5 hours). As my car passed 270 000 km the other week and I do have problems with an O2 sensor even though I have changed all 4 of them and the whole exhaust catalyst pipe. I really wanted to lift the camshaft cover and have a look how it looks like and check the valves with feeler blades. I changed the sparkplugs as it was time for that too and they had to be removed to crank the engine to the TDC. I changed the air inlet filter, but it was quite clean. Well I do take it out and vaccuum it sometimes when I clean interior of the car. The cabin filter was very, very dirty. I am surprised there could be so much dirt in that filter.
  11. I will soon do a service on my Avensis. I have just placed an order for oil, filters and sparkplugs from Opie oils. I will then check the valve clearance. I noticed a few months ago when I checked the compression that one sparkplug didn´t look ok. I might also get new ignition coils too, but I have not decided that yet. Unfortunately this engine has a mechanical driven high pressure fuel pump (up to 13MPa) that has to be removed to check the valve clearance. There is 3 different back-up rings and an o-ring on the fuel-pipe and those are non-reusable parts. I have searched all over the internet to find those, but I could not find them. I will go to Mr T tomorrow and ask them to get those spares I will need. If the clearance is too big I will need to get new lifters too. Is there any way to know the thickness of the lifters without lifting the camshafts? Wich lifter size had the engine when it was new? It feels like it is not service friendly to dismantling half of the fuel system twice and lifting the camshafts twice. First to find out which lifter you have in the engine and then once more to change to the new lifters. I will need the car to get to the job etc... How often do you need to replace the lifters? The car has 270 000 km on the clock. I don´t have any experience of this before. I checked the valves on my old Carina E, but I did not need to change any shims when I had that car. Has anyone here done this before on their 1 AZ-FSE engine and could give me some advises.
  12. Thanx for your answers. The voltage regulator is in the alternator as far as I can read in the workshop manual and other places. How will I know if the fault is the voltage regulator? I might try to get the old alternator fixed and sell it. I ordered a new alternator (complete with everything, less than €150 and Mr T wants €750 ish) and a new drivebelt (the one on the engine looks worn) from autodoc . I choose the cheapest and it was stated that was a direct fit and exchangepart with the correct toyota partnumber. I guess I will get my parts next week. It doesn't look too difficult to change the alternator.
  13. Hi everyone, It was rather long time since I was here at the forum, but I only goes here when there is a problem with the car. I noticed halfway home from work today that the red battery light was on. When I came home I meassured the voltage with the engine off to 11.4 V!!! I asked my son for help to meassure the voltage with the engine running and it was at the same when I had the engine running. I tried different rpm's and it was no change in the battery voltage. I have not had any problems starting the car and the battery is 1½ years old. I put it on charging over the night and it seems like the battery was very drained. I am afraid that I need a new generator, or might it be another fault that is not that expensive that I could not see when I was out looking at the car?
  14. It is ok, Konrad. It looks different on different models. I read about rear hubs in different Hayne's manuals and it was different in most of them. The hub was changed by the local workshop (not TOYOTA), but the ABS still goes in just before the car is stopping sometimes. It feels like it was not the sensor in the hub that was the problem though. It is much easier to dismantle the shoes than put them back again, but it is not too difficult. Just to remember how the springs are suposed to be mounted. The Toyota workshop manual (bought a CD from e-bay years ago when I bought the car) say that you should start with the upper front spring then the upper rear spring and the metal thing between the shoes. Then you are should take the lower spring and the adjuster wheel. The last you should take away is the retaining clips that holds the shoes to the backing plate using a special tool. Mounting is the reverse. The last thing is to adjust the parking brake: turn the adjuster until the shoes sits firmly to the drum and then release the adjuster about 8 steps. After the adjustment of the shoes one might have to adjust the parkingbrake lever (6-9 clicks) and if the shoes are new you should also have to grind them to the drums too while driving.
  15. No, Konrad you are wrong. I guess you have not looked at the attached pdf file in the original post. The bolts are mounted from the back to the hub. The hub does not goes clear from the brake shoes when dismantling/mounting the hub. Your description is how it looks on older toyota cars. On the T25 Avensis you have to remove the shoes, like Duggerz wrote and the workshop manual says. Unfortunately the hub was too hard to remove, even when all the bolts was off. I had to let a workshop do the job. I tried to warm it off, but it is difficult to get the heat at the right place with the weed burner I used. Workshops have better things to warm things.