Penfold

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About Penfold

  • Rank
    Advanced Club Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Barry
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Toyota Model
    2006 Avensis 2.0D4 vvtti T-Spirit and 2009 Yaris 1.3TR
  • Toyota Year
    2006
  • Location
    Kent

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  1. Hi, Having had the dreaded yellow engine warning light come up I had the issue diagnosed as a failure of Oxygen Sensor 'Bank1, Sensor1'. I sourced a Denso sensor. Toyota p/n 89465-05100, Denso p/n DOX-0204. The cable lengths and connector plugs were identical with the only difference being an extra (not required by me) rubber grommet around the cable which I used aircraft snips to cut away so it then looked like the original item. The night before I had put Plus Gas releasing fluid on the offending sensor thread Removed the engine dust cover to get access to the Bank1 plug where it joins the loom Unplugged both upper sensors from the wiring loom Undid the upper manifold heatshield (3 bolts+1 nut) and slid it off over the wire for the Bank2 sensor (left hand viewed facing the engine, drivers side in UK Threaded a 7/8 A/F ring over the Bank1 sensor plug and onto the Sensor and undid it - thankfully not seized or the Plus Gas did its job nicely Removed the plastic sleeve from the new one and checking there was no stray 'special grease' on the sensor head, screwed it in finger tight. I then used a 22mm sensor socket and torque wrench to do it up to 40Nm. (Denso state 35-45Nm for the 18*1.5mm threaded versions) Refitted the heat shield, Connected both sensors back to loom and clipped securing ties in place. Refitted the engine dust cover Started engine and test drove - all good but the yellow warning light was still up There are 4 options to reset the yellow light; 1. Use an ODB2 device - couldn't get my hands on one that day 2. Drive quite a few miles - at today's fuel prices??? Nope. 3. Disconnect the battery earth, press the horn to drain residual current and reconnect after 10 minutes - 3FM bands, 1 AM and 1 DAB to retune again and then re-pair my mobile.....Nope 4. Pull the ECU fuse - turn the ignition on for 10 seconds and then off, reinsert the fuse and should be ok. Well I went for Option 4 but there are so many fuses with ECU in the description, which to pull? The answer for this Facelifted T25 2.0vvti-D4 is fuse number 12 'EFI', a 20Amp in the fuse bank that sits parallel to the left hand front wing (near side in UK). To save a bit of Interwebs legwork, if anyone else needs to do this then I've knocked up a cheat sheet - see attached picture. It only applies to certain models of engine though so do check inside the lid of your own fuse box to make sure it is the same position number. If it isn't then you'll have to do some research but once located it is a damn site easier than having to setup all the radio and hands-free kit again. Put the kettle on mother!
  2. Hi, It is registered as a 5 seater and will be insured and type approved to that spec. It will be tested to that spec as well which means it will need all 3 rear seat belts installed and in good working order with no fraying or tears. Any associated warning lights will be checked on the dash, which if they either don't come on when they should or don't extinguish then it'll be an instant fail. The only way around this is to get the DVLA to modify the V5C to say it is a 2 seater ,which will require an engineers report and about 2 months of arguing/waiting. After that you will need to get specialist insurance who will fleece you for what they will see as a track car being used on the road. You would probably find that the inspector will take one look at the missing belts and declare that the vehicle is 'not in a suitable condition to be tested' for those items and refuse a certificate. (same as presenting with headlamp covers and baby seats etc where they aren't allowed to remove them for testing so fail you for not having done so beforehand) Sorry. Penfold
  3. Hi Tino, Hopefully not breaking my 06 plate just yet but I'm guessing the rubber has split apart on yours? (same as my son's 57 plate). If it is a Liftback body then you have 2 possible parts for the '84840G' handle. Part 84840-20010 was fitted up to 04/06 when it was superceded by part 84840-20030. I don't know why but it may affect the system in some way. If it is Wagon body (Estate) the it had the 84840-20030 only from introduction. Happy parts hunting. Penfold
  4. Destroyed alloy at weekend after tyre blew out on motorway. T25 T-Spirit with OZ factory alloys PZ458-T0671-Z. Just bought secondhand one on fleabay to refurb and althouh sold as PZ458 version it is a PZ474-T0671-Z. It looks identical apart from the valve seat is one spoke around from the original. The rim profile looks ok and offset hub face to inner rim is 14.8cm on both. I can live with the valve location. Does anyone know if there is another reason for the different p/n? Don't want to go negative on the ebayer if its just MrT messing with production batch numbering. Thanks, Penfold
  5. I used the wurth can of disinfectant first 2 times (half can floods the evap tray nicely and then rinses it down the drainage pipe) i kept the tube that goes up the drainage pipe as it fits on a can of dettol spray. I disinfect it every spring and it lasts me through to winter when i don't use the aircon. Spraying in air vents was waste of time. Go up the drainage vent.....use an old takeaway tub to stop it going over the carpet when refitting the drain into the grommet.
  6. Hi, They should be the same on either side and only be affected by the amount of fuel, tyre type, cargo or passengers you carry. This test removes the impact of fuel load, cargo & passenger load and tyre profile. Jack the car and support it under the rear of the chassis rails so that both wheels are off the ground then check the distance between the wheel hub centre and the lower edge of the wheelarch directly above it. They should be the same distances - if not then you have a twisted body from accident damage or rough riding. I doubt that Toyota will have let it leave the production line if the robots found a variance. Finding out where it is deformed will be a nightmare and involve removing lots of trim to establish datum points. If it rides ok then leave it be :) Worn springs is the usual suspect and are normally lower on the drivers side as cars always have a driver but not necessarily passengers. Regards, Penfold
  7. Hi, Neighbour had this happen to her F*cus with drum brakes at the rear. (drove through flood then parked up and left it for 2 weeks - shoes rusted to drum) When I got asked to help she was on the phone to her mechanic who then spoke to me and suggested this; If you can see the drum through the spokes of the alloy, get a piece of solid bar (long extension from socket set should do it or piece of copper pipe) With someone in the car having the engine running and in 1st or reverse gear with the clutch at biting point so that it is just starting to move on the suspension, put the bar on the drum and give the bar a sharp tap with a hammer. It should shock the shoes free. Word of warning: get someone you trust to drive the car because if they aren't ready to hit the footbrake the minute it frees off then they will take you and the extension car with them....bless her, but she was a bit panicked. We both lived, and the car was fine after that. Regards, Penfold
  8. Hi, EGR is "Exhaust Gas Recycling". It takes a portion of the exhaust and runs it back through the engine in order to get rid of some of those nasty unburnt hydrocarbons (fuel). It is a modern vehicle's way of trying to get cleaner emissions. Works great but the act of sucking on dirty exhaust makes the intake get all gummed up with soot and then the whole thing start to go downhill. It's a messy job to clean one properly, which is probably why your mechanic only wants to fit a clean one off the shelf. Find a garage who will clean it for you at a reasonable price. VSC is "Vehicle Stability Control". It's a function of the onboard computer that reads each wheel and can tell if it is starting to lose grip compared to the others. It will then reduce power accordingly or apply the brake to the other wheels to prevent your car getting itself sideways. A fault on this system is sometime down to a dirty sensor or dirty/loose electrical connector in the wheelarch. The Parking Brake system is the handbrake. I prefer the old fashion handle you can yank on in an emergency (..or for getting round muddy corners faster :) ) but I think your car probably has one of the modern electronic ones. If the handbrake is applying while you're driving then it could be read by the VSC as potential loss of comparative grip by the other wheels and therefore gets confused - hence the warning. I have to say that I would probably take one look at a brake system fault and hand the car to MrT for a diagnostic and clean of all the sensors/connectors at each wheel. VSC should not be confused with ABS (Anti-Lock Braking), which comes on under heavy braking. VSC monitors and kicks in even if you aren't using the brakes. I hope that helps explain some of the acronyms. Regards, Penfold
  9. Hi Iain, Yes, Parts King is v.helpful so try him first. I smashed one last year on a piece of hedgerow one windy day and just needed the indicator insert for a late 2006 model. On my car I didn't need the whole unit, just the indicator (can't get just the lense - arghhh). Cost me £90 from MrT for the indicator insert. At the time a complete aftermarket electric folding unit unpainted was £120 so it made sense not to replace the whole thing. You may get away with an indicator and replacement cover. I've also found this outfit useful http://www.shop4toyota.co.uk/ basically they're Toyota but they've been pleasant to deal with when I've needed odds & sods such as the trim clips for the a-post covers and a new wheel centre trim after the jetwasher destroyed one on my son's T25.
  10. Hi, I had Goodyear efficient grips on my mk2 T25 when I got it. I was annoyed how much noisier this car is compared to my old mk1. Then I changed the front ones for Kumho and it got quieter. Waiting for the rears to wear out so I can change those as well. Never have liked Goodyear but like them less now, but that's just my view.
  11. Gunfire rattle = knackered battery. Jump start it and take it for a new one. Get them to check that the alternator is also putting out 12.5 - 14.5 volts charging as I had an alternator fail last November that killed my battery as a side effect. Mine presented as dash lights flickering with engine running and rev counter all over the place. Local mechanic said he'd changed 4 Toyota alternators that month.
  12. "Oddly,in my experience the vvti gives more to the gallon from.avg 36 in the 7afe to 39 in my current 1ZZ-FE which is surprising because it has a noticeably better power delivery throughout the rev range meaning I tend to use that power more because it responds to it where as the lean burn didn't so I cruised a lot more in it." There's a litle trick for waking up the 2.0 lean burn engine if you want to but I only used it occassionally as it does upset fuel consumption. Assuming you are accelerating quite hard already, momentarily back off the throttle for half a second and then bury it into the carpet....and hang on. There's none of the engine note changing that you get with the 2.0 vvti - it just becomes more responsive until you decide to resume normal driving at which point the world's most comfortable armchair returns. That said I now have the 2.0 D4 vvti and that changes cam profile at 3200rpm. I think I prefer the vvti setup.
  13. I tested the emergency manual release pull cord on mine yesterday and it jammed in the open position until I gave the cord a wiggle at which point it popped back out again allowing the cover to latch shut. I didn't know I had this emergency facility until I fitted reverse sensors and found it dangling inside the rear wing. There's a velcro pad on the handle so I've attached it to the fuzzy felt lining of the cubby hole so it doesn't get lost again.
  14. 2002 Avensis is the better engine. I had the lean burn version in a '98 model and if I drove it carefully I got 44mpg. The 2002 model is the vvti so may not return as good consumption. Stay well away from the 1.6vvti Corolla engine (and the 1.4) as they cnsume oil like it is going out of fashion. Toyota had a problem and many were changed under warranty if they began burning oil after 30K miles. If you went outside warranty and it had been serviced solely by them they might consider changing it but you had to argue the toss. We just sent a 2001 1.6vvti to the scrappie as at 75K miles it was burning a litre of oil every 500 miles and wouldn't pass it's next MoT. The avensis saloon has more headroom in the back than the hatchback version - yep, bizarre as I noticed it even though I'm only 5' 6".
  15. Correction as I can't type today. p/n = 81740-05030.... apologies.