just_jon

Hi again all, rear brake change is looming on my 180. Have all the tools and stuff but wanted to check if there is a specific order to set the handbrake after reassembly? This used to be very tricky on mr2's with the similar ratchet caliper. Tia, Jon

Anyone have a link to a pair they've purchased recently and were decent quality? I'm wary of buying ones that look knackered before you even fit them, as I have experienced previously. Tia, Jon

Yeah, try double de-clutching, so instead of any 'pumping' of the clutch, merely clutch in from first, go to neutral, clutch out, then clutch in and go for 2nd, let out. You can do this pretty quickly with practice, and might mean you get a few more years from it to recoup the costs you have already incurred.

Sorry if I missed your no codes comment. Does the engine check light come on when it goes into limp mode? Whereabout are you?

Check for codes with any obd2 reader, that's what it's for. Would be interested to know the result

You don't say which model you have, but afaik e15 and e18 rears are all the same. They're less than 40 squid delivered on fleabay, new and no exchange reqd.

Possibly the turbo has expired if it gave a death rattle? Need a bit more to go on as other have said.

Sounds like a misfire?

Power bank? Got to be easier.

Cheers, I don't suppose the Valeo numbers are quoted on the system? Struggling to match stuff up.

Thanks, very much appreciate the help. Have PM'd.

Hi all, still on the hunt for a good deal on some pre-facelift mk1 Auris headlights to replace my UV-damaged ones. I don't really want to go spendy with OE jobs. On the pattern parts side, does anyone know if there are LHD & RHD differences on the Auris? I don't want to get lefties and end up blinding other motorists. Some of the better deals are from European pattern manufacturers. The second question is on the level motors, some headlights are marked as not having them, does this mean they simply don't come with motors and I can just transfer mine (I have checked they work properly), or does this mean that they don't have the correct moulding for the motored version? Before anyone says 'just polish them', the damage is on both the main outer skin and the inside lens which you can't get to. Cheers, Jon

I thought MOT rules had changed and if the car fails on anything deemed 'dangerous' then legally you are not supposed to drive it on the road, even if you've taken it a month early. Perhaps I'm wrong! The rear pads & discs are very cheap for good quality replacements. Likewise the callipers if the handbrake mechanism is sticking. I haven't priced up the cables yet though.

Hi all, next service item coming is the aux belt which is looking very tired. I think there are two pulleys listed, the one on the tensioner itself, then an idler. Anyone know if Toyota recommend these are changed at the same time as the belt? Or is it a case of changing the belt & checking the pulleys for play and grinding while the belt is off? Not hard to go back again later and change one if it doesn't feel great? They're not cheap. I always go with Gates for belts but happy to listen if someone has a strong recommend for an alternative. Cheers, Jon

Cheers, big fan of adl/blueprint stuff. Most often exceeds oe quality at a fraction of the price 😀