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Gerhard_Corolla

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Everything posted by Gerhard_Corolla

  1. I was on 18" Continentals the whole winter, on the original 17" Falkens since then and have only felt a little bit of less/worse handling feeling; the steering is way lighter and mute with the latter. We ride mostly on Germany's south roads and the surface is quite smooth even on B roads, so we haven't felt a difference in comfort between both sizes. Granting our daily drive is not through highways and B roads, I do feel that the comfort feeling is mainly road surface driven...
  2. It's amazing what aerodynamics can do... I travelled recently through large highway tunnels, and experience what the bulb air pressure from a huge lory can produce, you're literally being aspirated towards the truck. I was able to constantly charge the HV battery while traveling at 65/70 km/h, and at sometimes I needed to brake a little to maintain the safety distance. There was traffic so the distance and speed between cars was less than normal, and obviously the enclosed space helped a lot, but it was an entertaining little stretch of road indeed. It's not something I would recommend trying to do on normal highways, because the security distance needs to be less, and you would probably end up with way higher paint chips count than your normal 'ply through air barrier' behind a truck scenario...
  3. Wondering that myself as well! I'll plan to ditch the original Falkens (17") next summer season for Michelin Primacy 4s (18"), but after doing a little bit of light research I cannot yet find the model with wheel protection lips and extra load capacity. I've read as well that they tend to wear off quite fast, but help a lot with the tyre noise thingie and overall grip/handling... But if the ride surfaces in your country are a little bit rough, I think nothing helps, it's just a slight 'perception' of improvement. I've seen @shufman 's post about his Michelins and I concur: Just on looks, they're worth the money! 😎
  4. Toyota has amazing content for their clients in the UK, USA, and Canada! In their UK Youtube channel and online 'magazine' I've found everything I could not find anywhere else...
  5. I'm all in with team dealership, at the end of the day they are the ones facing customers, and if there isn't another option, fine by me... The issue is not that, is that they are charging me the full price for Toyota Mobil 1 oil, but they're using Liqui Moly oil, that cost half or less the price of the former!
  6. Well, if they charge the prices from the alternative oils, everything is fine... But they charge the prices of 'original' Toyota oil (aka Mobil 1) and they use Ravenol, Liqui Moly, Motul, etc. We recently made our first large travel with the car, so I took it to a general mechanical check-up, and they found the oil level was 'not in order', it was nothing serious but not accordingly to the correct standard. Thanks to the language barriers, I didn't get that it was a little bit over filled and not under filled, so I went to a Toyota dealership to buy a liter of Toyota 0W16 before I went to pick up the car. Surprise, surprise, they sold me a liter of Liqui Moly 0W16 oil for 35 eur, the price of the Toyota 'original' oil... It was an emergency, so what a hell, I bought it, but you can get that oil for 15/16 eur. What bothered me was not having the choice! If Toyota is fine with using other oil brands, I should be able to decide if I want to spend half on materials authorized by Toyota for the maintenance of my vehicle, and not be charged full price for the same maintenance procedures, but use cheaper options...
  7. What could have been the punishment if it had been your 'fault'?! 😬
  8. A tip I read on another forum: You can do the regular process to check the engine's oil level, but if it's a little bit difficult to read it, fold a tissue or napkin over the dip-stick, open it carefully without moving nor tissue or dip-stick and that way you would immediately see the correct level... The first time I checked the oil level, I needed three attempts and use light reflection to try to infer where it was. I found out that the level is 3/4mm above the MAX mark, did a little research and decided that the level should be corrected on the next oil change. Apparently they all come overfilled from the factory, and if it's not above a centimeter, it doesn't cause splashing bubbles nor augment the piston pressure or valves. Supposedly you need to fill the engine with 4 liters, start the engine and let it warm up, shut it down and let the oil cool/drop for 5 minutes, and then add little by little the remaining 300ml until you reach the b mark on the dip-stick. 🤘
  9. The UX was as well a buying option for us, but the moment we opened the hatch door, we said no thank you... The rest of the features and looks are indeed quite tempting! Beautiful car!
  10. I have the exact same head light's scheme in a German spec car... Supposedly the right head light (driver's view) is regulated a little bit higher than the left one to allow a greater field of view on your lane (right hand drive), and a shorter one on the left lane to avoid dazzling oncoming traffic. I've noticed this when your lights hit a nearby wall, but it's not distinguishable in real driving situations. If that's the case with your car, maybe the right solution is to counter your higher/far away field of view (left head light - driver's view) with the stickers. If your dealership cannot help, it's better to say: "Monsieur le policier, désolé! I just followed the impossible instructions..." than not having the ridiculous stickers on your car...
  11. Of course it's a multifactorial issue, as is always... But the worst combination of them all for sure is: poor road surface + Falken tyres + absence of acoustic glass + terrible sound system = drives people crazy In continental Europe the most, literally, loud complaints come from Spain and Portugal, where road surfaces tend not to be optimal. I have now driven the car in Germany and Italy, and I haven't noticed anything out of the ordinary in this class segment. It's a non issue even in B-roads in the former, and a small issue on those same roads in the latter, but because in Italy you're fighting for your life in every corner, the sounds tend to blur on the background! 'Class segment' is little bit dodgy nowadays, at first we were looking to lease a car, and there were pretty good deals on BMWs 118, a car that drives extremely well. But at the end we crunch the numbers and thought that leasing was not the right thing for us, so we researched within a certain budget what cars were available, and in each head to head comparison the Corolla beat the competition. I really liked how the BMW drives, but within the Corolla price tag, you're looking into the 116 territory and the Bavarian company only gives you four wheels and a windscreen, while the Japanese gives you extremely good security features and a better engine... Moreover, I loved the looks, so we naturally decanted for the Corolla TS 2.0... A BMW with the same engine output and near the security features of the Corolla would be around the 40k eur mark, which is well above the Corolla version we bought in Germany. In my opinion the Corolla has a little bit too much equipment and features, like the parking and driving assisted systems for example, that only adds complications and costs that could have gone to other areas of the car like better paint quality, handling feeling, door seals, general sound insulation, or a better sound system. But the security features are just outstanding! The emergency braking system, blind spot monitor, and airbags are noteworthy. They even give you an airbag for your coffee in front of the cup holders!
  12. Happy ending and hopefully all the work done on the HB will be appreciated by the new owner... Keep the pictures coming, the TS looks awesome in that paint scheme! I'm not a fan of the bicolor thingie, but that metallic paint on that Corolla does wonders to the car!
  13. I'm as well extremely disappointed with the OM speakers and planning to upgrade them, but I do not have the mood or the will to invest in anything that isn't plug and play... Thanks for all the ideas published!
  14. Indeed, all those systems do not depend on a 'beauty' cover to function, it's just aesthetics. The only function the covers play is satisfy the clients' expectations of what a 'complete' car should be...
  15. Those plastic bits does nothing more than promote heat retention, not a good thing for any engine! When I saw it didn't come with one and it has real exhaust pipes, at least the TS 2.0L, I confirmed that it was the car we wanted. They have chosen to go backwards with that design decision with the new models, unfortunately...
  16. In theory the reserve considered is huge, and yes, I've once stretched the fill up quite a bit and could only fill it up with 40 liters...
  17. Lovely place to learn new vocabulary! 🤔 Parcel shelf, boot cover, useless embellishment, privacy safeguard... Hopefully you're healing rapidly along family and friends!
  18. There's a considerable chunk of owners that needed to change their rear disks on their 45,000 km service, because they were practically in 'new' condition but extremely rust due to the low activity of the rear brakes... I thought that with a few hard brakes at speed, the rear disks would drop a little bit of that rust, but it's still visible. Of course less than before, but still present.
  19. I took the TS for her first long highway drive through the Alps, and two things were difficult to adapt to: engine revolutions management on ascending bits of road, and hard/at high speed braking. The most disturbing of the two was the braking part! I understand that regenerative braking initiate the phase of braking, then the front brakes takes the main task of decelerating the vehicle, while the rear brakes appear just as an accessory waiting to intervene only if needed. But the case is that I felt that the rear brakes almost didn't participated at all in any important braking. Now I know that the rears are brake by wire and maybe that has something to do with the feeling, but I thought that the rear disks would clean a little bit better after so many km on the road for the first time... ... and believe me, I used the brakes a lot driving among thousands and thousands of crazy Italians!
  20. Because maybe the people working on your car are a little bit less conscious with your property than you are? If the key socket is lost, you're talking about at least a week without being able to use your car, while you wait for the replacement key to arrive. The other day I was waiting in line to buy a torque wrench and the guy in front asked for a Thule replacement key for his roof box and the waiting time was two weeks. I'll guess that's faster if you just brake the cylinder, but you risk damaging your equipment. The same applies fr your wheels...
  21. I have recently bought the wheel locks for the Corolla and what I do not understand is why that empty space is not used to give the customer a second key socket, one for the car and the other for safe keeping at home...
  22. Unbelievable how a few low lifes can ruin the lives of hard working people without getting punished... I know that a lot of the robbed parts market is for export, but it baffles me that the manufacturers do not implement programs to combat this travesty. One that worked wonderfully in Mexico was providing original auto parts at 'production' costs, so it was cheaper to replace your robbed outside mirrors with a distributor paying cash, than reporting the event with your insurance and paying the deductible. Of course there will always be a useful idiot that buys parts in the robbed market fueling the low lifes' line of work, but that program radically reduced the robbery from Toyota's and Honda's cars back then. I don't know if they continue with this policy, but it was a success from a marketing point of view, and I would guess that form a business side as well, because we ended buying a Honda, and a lot of people thought the same.
  23. Do you like it? Then everything is OK... 👍 Taste is always on the eye of the beholder, and you'll get opposing views on everything. The additional lights are not my cup of tee, but choosing that color for your TS was spot on!
  24. What worked for me is: First you push towards the body of the car, mainly on the upper side of the side cover (blue arrows). You'll notice that the upper right side of the plastic cover pops a little bit outwards (purple arrows are the hooks that maintain the cover attached to side of the tail light). Then you have to play around carefully to try to get the third hook to disengage from its position, pretty slowly, and considering as well repeating the process of the first step, but with the bottom section of the plastic cover. You'll end seeing that all the three hooks are detached and you can then play around with the plastic clips that attach the cover to body of the car through the mounting points of the tail light (last pictures). All the steps should be done with patience and care, the clips are quite delicate and the plastic used a little bit soft. The whole design is little bit lame! All the water drainage path (cyan arrow) is intended to go behind the tail lights and the rear bumper, and around each of the screws that attached these elements to the body. It's just a disaster waiting to happen... I more or less cleaned the whole assembly last week and it's filled with pollen and leaves all over again. I'll try to find something that blocks the access to seeds, pollen, flowers, insects, etc, and allows water to go through...
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