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Everything posted by MIP

  1. I like it, goes well with the white. Is it an effect or actual carbon fiber? If its alot lighter, it should make a bit of a difference to acceleration.
  2. I'd say only possibly a chav, maybe part chav, mostly just an idiot. I guess you wanna not panic with stuff like that and do your best to get a reg plate, because at least if you did get hit you could prosecute for all sorts. Unless his cars stolen. Chav: This is a chav, rating 12A Dictionary: Chav
  3. Bugger, typing away and my computer crashes. Must be the heat. :ffs: Just been reading around and mulling over that graph, I finally get it, the spark advances more the faster the engine goes, finally got that there is a delay between the spark and the mixture igniting and reaching full pressure, hence the need to advance the spark slightly (and also to advance it more at higher engine speeds). I guess the reason you advance it more with higher octane is that its harder to burn, so you give it that energy earlier to reach full pressure at the top? So, given that I run 97ron, is it worth tweaking? Its tempting because it might be relativly simple for a complete novice like myself, I guess it wouldn't cost anything. On the other hand, If it could do alot of damage or dramatically effect my mpg (I'm not sure how it could, it'd be injecting the same amount of fuel, just getting more energy out of a higher octane right?) then maybe its not worth the risk? I am also tempted by other mods, air filter, ecu, de-cat, trd shocks springs and anti-rollbars, and some 17's, but their all money items for the future at the moment. Can you get high flow cat-converters so you don't mess with emissions but get the same benefits of de-cat?
  4. Oh I wish I could afford the petrol n stuff to bring my gen6 GT along it looks like a great weekend. Unfortunatly I have to be really tight with money untill I get out of debt from buying a gen6 GT. b*****d irony.
  5. O.k, I'll do my best to do some learning. So with fuel that requires higher compression to burn, you change somthing on the distributor, which as I understand it, controls the timings of the spark plugs? Why would you have it spark at any other time than when the piston is right at the top? I guess knock is an effect where the petrol combusts to early in effect, pushing against the turning of the engine.
  6. MIP


    You get the same 190 engine in the lotus elise 111R as well eh? Thats my dream car, would be nippier than a GT4, though I'll need to progress ALOT more my career for one of those. Sorry for going off on a tangent...
  7. The uk manual specifies 95RON and higher. I use 97RON from (usually from) sainsburys myself. What does that adjustment you mentioned do? Advance the timings? I could probably do with a reference, but the haynes manuals I've found seem to be U.S. I'm not gonna pretend, I'm ok with looking thick, I don't really know what RON means, and what/why you change engine settings/timings to accomodate different RON petrol. My understanding of engines comes from howstuffworks.com
  8. Its in the title really, where does the slight extra power and 0.4 of a second quicker to 60 come from with the jap SSII gen6 compared to the UK GT? The reason I ask is that at Greenam near me, there's a jap import garage that apparently can get hold of jap parts, If the extra power comes from a jap exhaust or somthing, maybe you can just change? Bare in mind, my knowledge of car internals isn't in any way detailed.
  9. MIP

    Spongy Sound

    After a short, highly scientific experiment, I conclude that a spongy sound is a kind of squishy squelching sound. You may need water and soap to reproduce these results.
  10. Your not wrong, it does need the rev's to really pick up, it all changes after about 3-4k?. I imagine it'd be easier to drive an FE engine, more a case of just putting your foot down and your off. I was slightly disappointed at first but Its just about adapting your driving style. Dropping into 2nd gear at 30-40mph feels totally wrong at first, but god do you take off, with a loverly noise all the way to 7k to boot, and if you change up after putting the revs up, it comes back in on the power, nice shove into the back of your seat. I really enjoy it now. I spose as a result, I generally drive and accelerate gently with the lower rev's, and thus it tends to be alot more rare for me to be tempted to push the car, which is good really. If I was pushing it, its easy to do from a standing start, I can often just change down to bring in the power, and on a track I could keep the rev's high. Its not quite as easy as just flooring it, as I spose you do with the FE engine. I'm impressed with my 1998 Celica GT. Its now done 100k miles, but its very smooth, burns no oil. Infact the oil on the dipstick looks as clear as if it where new, and yet the last service was a few thousand miles ago. Unlike my old car where oil on the dipstick was blackened. So yea, I love my gen 6 GT. It cost £4300 (including a brand new clutch, and the leather seats I really wanted, the side skirts, and it being a uk car with full mr t service history, and 3 months warrenty), I was really stretching my budget at the time, but it seems worth it for those extra's. Of the celica's I test drove, the ones over 80k miles seemed a bit heavy and worn on the clutch.
  11. Me neither, mine are sexeh leather, but its a good find.
  12. Bought a 1998 Celica GT last month, just introducing myself here seen as I'm in the SE.
  13. Sounds interesting, where abouts is it? I don't know reading too well. Couldn't see that kit on envy performance though there where quite a few products without pics.
  14. Havin got my celica GT a few weeks ago, and finding that the clutch would slip at high revs, I got the dealer to go halves on replacing it. So £150 later, I have a nice new clutch. The difference is vast, the pedal itself is much lighter and springy, took some getting used to. It bites much quicker in the pedal travel as well. First time I drove it away in the wet, wasn't quite expecting it, and looked like a complete nob as I wheel span away <_< But I'm really enjoying it now, its much more controlled and quicker. Its only now it bites that I realize that it needs quite high rev's for real power. On a tangent, I've seen this kind of bodywork on another celica here: Bodywork Though I don't know where I could get hold of it, any idea's/suggestions? Particularly the front fin things before the front wheels (I've got two bits of black plastic bodywork there on mine at the moment that I'm gonna spray body colour).
  15. MIP

    New Dials

    They look sexeh. One question though, do they do different dials for the different models? The redline is in the wrong place, it comes in after 7k on my GT, not that it matters a great deal.
  16. Update: He's not going to try and adjust anything with the clutch for the reasons people here have stated above. Due to the warrenty not covering wear n tear, it doesn't cover the clutch. But I pushed just a bit seen as its so new, and the dealer has agree'd to pay half, so I'm getting a new clutch fitted for £150. Not the end of the world...the outer limits of my overdraught, but not the end of the world.
  17. I've got off the phone to the dealer this afternoon, and next week I'm going to take it down to them. Apparently, their going to tighten somthing to do with the clutch. Now I can imagine this only as a temporary solution at best perhaps, could this mess with the feel of the clutch and not solve any underlying problems like worn plates? I'd be much more comfortable if he was suggesting changing parts, what would people advise?
  18. Yea, the clutch is definatly slipping then. I tried shoving it out of both 2nd, 3rd and 4th up a hill and it just wasn't deliving the power n the revs where staying on 5k as clutch wasn't biting properly. Gonna ring up the dealer today, it says in my warrenty booklet that the clutch is covered, so I'm gonna get that replaced I hope. I'll get em to tighten the handbrake at the same time. Thank god for the warrenty, fingers crossed, a brand new clutch at just under 100k miles.
  19. I appreciate all the help so far everyone :) I'll do that straight road/hill test out of third, see what happens with the clutch. Its pretty difficult to identify where exactly a noise if coming from, but if I somehow work it out, I'll apply that silicon sealant. I'm slightly scared of bridging the two terminals of a car battery with the two ends of my voltmeter, in the same way I'd be scared of licking both my index fingers and doing the same. I'm not creating a complete circuit through myself am I? The voltmeter I've got I typically used for small scale electronics, you don't need somthing different for a car do you? Its got two metal spiked with plastic grips on two wires coming out of it. I think I'd have to be wearing rubber gloves at the same time
  20. I've been saving for a long while now, and last week replaced my weak 1.1litre fiesta with a fantastic celica GT, 1998, UK model (in silver with nice black leather). Its fantastic, took a day or two to get used to the clutch, but all is well. Now I'm not mechanicly minded though I understand the basics, however I do really want to look after my new pride and joy, and learn about its workings as I go. Its got a full toyota service history, and I'll keep up servicing it though I can't afford to do it with toyota. Four problems/concerns: 1. General driving, there are no rattles or noises, however, on some rougher surfaced roads that cause continuous vibration, I have noticed some area's of the car where you get a distinct kind of rattle or buzz. Behind the drivers seat at the back, roughly where the passenger seatbelt comes out, and a quieter one around the drivers side air vent on the right. How do you troubleshoot rattles and noises generally? I'll get a haynes manual n try n work out where you can open it up to tighten things, but any help would be appreciated. 2. How do you tighten the handbrake cable? 3. Is there a way of checking the condition of the clutch as the cars done nearly 100k miles? I thought it might be slipping, either that or its my inexperienced driving and I'm just accidently reving the engine a bit as I try fast gear changes. I can describe this better if you need more detail... 4. The car wouldn't start yesterday. All the electrics would come on, but there wasn't enough power to even begin to turn the engine and all the lights just flickered and it made a fast ticking noise. Fortunatly the cars under a three month warrenty from the place I bought it. They came out and swapped the battery and it worked straight away. They said it was just a duff battery, but the car had been working the evening before, is there any chance of some other underlieing problem? Any further tips for keeping the celica in mint condition and working well are also appreciated.
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