Black Knight

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About Black Knight

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  • Toyota Model
    Avensis

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  1. The power steering pump is located on some bolts that go thought the exhaust side of the chain cover. If they changed the timing chain they have to take the power steering pump off to get the chain cover off
  2. Sounds like its volume rather than weight required (note the pram and buggy comment above from nocolai) Sports tourer would manage that plus plenty of space for luggage for a holiday trip without being too overwhelmed weight wise
  3. Was it a wagon or hatch back Auris? Reason I ask is the Sports Tourer (aka Wagon) is just in the process of being released and if it wasn't that you tried it might be worth waiting for a demo car to arrive. Much bigger inside
  4. In that case yes the pump did need changing. If its starting to spray around the engine bay it means it is on the way out. Eventually it would have contaminated the grease in the pump bearings and they would have seized. So good idea to change. Can't help out on the LLC without knowing what your garage put in.
  5. I'm sorry I only just saw this thread. The pump was fine by the sounds of things. The seals inside the pump need to be lubricated. The LLC provides the lubrication but in doing so a very small amount leaks past the seal. After many miles you can normally see some of this on the outside of the pump. The pump actually has drains built into it so that this small amount doesn't affect the bearings. So long as water wasn't visibly dripping from the pump and the coolant level wasn't dropping there would have been no need to change the pump. It's a common technology and I've seen the same methods employed by fiat and vw to name just two.
  6. 70mph cruising would normally net me 55mpg dropping to 52mpg in cold/wet weather. Where it hurts is acceleration. That's when the engine works inefficiently. The engine runs a modified Atkins cycle that's very efficient but lacks power. You've the electric motor to back that up though but rapid acceleration forces it to run inefficiently. Think dual carriageway roundabouts. Do lots of those and efficiency drops rapidly. Lift off and cruise into roundabouts without braking and then accelerate gently out the other side and you can get into the 60s
  7. The description isn't so good but you might be describing normal operation of the torque converter
  8. Keep an eye on the coolant level. If it isn't going down ignore it. Water pumps leak. Water pumps are designed to leak. It's part of the seal lubrication system in the pump. They actually have drainage channels cast into the body of the pump for that reason. Look at any manufacturer and its the same. Seen the design on fiats and vw's and a bunch of others Problem is that dealers don't know this, the coolant is nice and neon pink and easy to see and if the dealer does know about it they can treat it as a lovely money spinner. "Ohhhh dear sir look at all this coolant. It obviously shouldn't be here!"
  9. It might be the vacuum pump and if it is its normal. Way to tell is: Open the bonnet and take off the plastic head cover (just lifts off) Facing the engine bay on the right hand side you'll see two components attached to the side of the cylinder head. The front one has a !Removed! big electrical connection on it with a black plastic cap on the end. The rear one (under a black plastic moulded piece of wire harness) is the vacuum pump. There is a curved hose comes out of the top (underneath the front sill) then u-turns back on itself if you disconnect that hose with the engine running you'll notice the noise change if its the vacuum pump. Reconnect it and the noise should come back. Make sure you reconnect it though since you'll end up with no brake servo if you aren't careful
  10. Well it probably did damage the valve if you've had the head off with the valve in place even if it wasn't the original cause of it sticking. Did you manage to twist the valve in the head whilst trying to remove it? Angle relative to the solenoid body (ie the bolt hole) is important
  11. Nope. It should be remove the 10mm bolt and withdraw straight out. Question though. Did you take the head bolts out before or after you removed the valve? If I remember correctly the head bolt can foul the valve and the valve material is relatively soft compared to the bolt. Can quite easily damage it and that could make the end lock against the hole in the head.
  12. Easy enough to change. Remove the belt. Undo the bolt through the pulley, remove and replace. Awkward bit can be the bushes moving in the chain cover so if you knock spacer out and have to refit it you may have to push the bushes back by lightly tapping with a hammer or levering back out
  13. Just take the plug out as you would normally. Socket size is quite tight (12mm socket maybe from memory). Also easier with two short extensions rather than one long one I reckon.
  14. ALL water pumps from all manufacturers leak. The technology on them uses the coolant as a lubricant for the seal. There are actually drain holes for the coolant that comes out built into the pump Good chance the dealer is changing the pumps at best because they don't realise or at worst because it's easy money for them If the coolant level isn't dropping in level then the pump does not need changing Problem is the neon pink coolant attracts a lot of attention