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Everything posted by Madasafish

  1. You should be aware the MOT advisory system reporting changed in 2019 iirc. Before then, all were reported. After then ,only major ones. All the rust issues reported on your car are minor.
  2. I replaced the resistor on our 2003 Yaris... s/hand part ebay c £10 iirc. Easy job.Even I could do it
  3. I have two tools for such clumsiness: a magnet on the end of an extending telescopic tube. and a flexible pick up head with a flexible steel tube for grabbing items in tight spaces. Used at least once a year. You are not alone 🤑
  4. Front passenger side sensor/wire prone to stone damage
  5. I learned to drive on a car with syncro mesh gears and then bought a 1929 Riley 9 Monaco with no synchromesh at all and had to learn how to double declutch. That was interesting.🥵
  6. Crumple zones all OK. A couple of brackets bent and the plastic fixings holding on front wing smashed. Total Cost of DIY repair under £225. (headlamp £200). Wife quite calm at time . Then distressed. Now recovered. Thanks for your concerns..As we get older - both in our mid 70s, events tend to hit harder Car still looks nice
  7. Yes. My insurers- Swinton/Covea - have been very efficient and all done over mobile incl pictures of damage..
  8. Our Mark 1 T Spirit D4d came into our ownership in 2005. Much loved and 62k miles. A week ago a (very rude word ) driver overtook my wife on a 20 meter long strip of dual carriageway at night, and decided to turn left when he was level with her. Hit driver's side front bumper , wing and headlamp . I have replaced the headlamp after some panel beating (crude sort), and it has just passed its MOT but our insurers deem it uneconomic to repair so we have bought it back net of salvage and insurance excess and are about to receive a largeish three figure lump sum. Crumple zones all undamaged but bumper is cracked - I will fettle it later. Headlamp on D4D (And T Sport) is not available used (scarce) and is made in Japan so Approx £200 new! (I received a 10% discount as I have an account with our local Toyota dealer (Pinkstone). Drives well - no steering/suspension damage and radiator untouched. Bumper was moved approx 5cm sideways and many of the plastic trim retaining screws/washers holding on under bonnet plastic shields collapsed with the impact. I retrieved the missing bumper inserts - see second picture next day in daylight, reassembled bumper and it looks ok ish if tatty.Some fettling to follow.
  9. I would cover the mating sections of the pillar with small squares of duck tape..to deaden the sound
  10. Just saying: the master cylinder in our 2003 Yaris is original and works perfectly so far (MOT passed again today)
  11. Nice looking car: very clean underneath. Envy🤑
  12. It's the plastic undertray. Any competent mechanic will fix it in 30 minutes - under a ramp. (Just being doing the dame to our 2002 Yaris.)
  13. Nope.. Car sits level with just one - rear spring. Now if it had been a front spring I would have done both: front suspension has "settled" a lot over 18 years with a heavy diesel engine at the front. (I am fortunate - I have a set of spring compressors purchased when I changed the front springs on a 1982 BMW 325i in c 1995
  14. Springs rust. Rust eats away metal. Springs are under huge loads on compression.If you go fast over road humps or potholes you make stresses much higher. I sprayed all our spring on our 2003 D4D when we bought it in 2005, A rear one broke four years ago - the rust proofing had worn off and it had rusted. Replaced it for £40 (ex ebay ). Sprayed it again with Dinitrol .Fine since. I live in Staffordshire as well - lots of potholes - and winter salt on roads and cow/horse excrement - ideal for rust!
  15. Petrol or diesel? (different solutions) Mileage. Serviced?
  16. Driving up hills when engine is cold makes fuel consumption terrible.
  17. Sounds like blocked fuel filter P1229 means too high fuel pressure. Easy to replace fuel filter..Bleed it afterwards.
  18. I can change my car's fuel consumption by shorter journeys, driving faster/slower, driving in snow/rain/ice/sun etc. Or driving on different routes. So the answer is variable and depends upon driving, let alone using the correct procedure to measure mpg.
  19. As above: squeeze the bottom hose first , then the top. Repeat several time. (Engine off, thermostat cap off) Then drive 5 miles (cap on of course) Repeat. It took approx 3 attempts in summer to bleed ours..and that involved driving up a very steep hill to get the engine up to heat)
  20. Try simple things first: 1. check air filter is not dirty . Replace if so. 2. Any fault codes? Could be low fuel pressure . That would be anew fuel pump .-or possibly a blocked fuel filter. The latter would not give fault codes. Change fuel filter (don't know this model so? ease) After that more complex. But air and fuel filters should be cheap and easy.
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