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Rvall

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  • Toyota Model
    Avensis 2.0 1999

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  1. This is a short workshop for changing the ignition switch on an Avensis 2.0 1999. I've had problems with starting the engine since beginning of summer. The symptoms were like this; when turning the key to the START position, nothing happens. You have to, either turn it from ON to START a few times or wiggle the key while holding it in the START position, to get connection in the lock to start the motor. This is due to a faulty switch behind the locking barrel, that has been worn down so it does not alway connect. This has nothing to do with the imobilizer system or coding of keys, it is only a mechanical problem and will not be solved by re-coding the keys or such. Be ware, the dealer gave me the wrong part on my first order; I described the symptoms and where the part is located and they knew exactly what I needed, after a long search in their computer they came up with the part I nedded. It was not in stock so they ordered it. What I got was a part called something like Coding Unit/Computer Unit remote control (PN 89780-05011). It's a part in black plastic casing with the front ring around the keyhole (with the text ACC/ON/START) and a short cable with a connector. This is the receiver of the coded keys and it is the wrong part, also it's more expensive and doesn't solve this problem. When I called them on the phone and described the symptoms again and told them I've got the wrong part, they looked again and came back to me saying that it was the correct part I've got. After a little convincing that I had a mechanical problem and not a computer problem, he discussed with another guy and finally they found the correct part. I've had a lot of help from member GnzYza in 'Problems with starting', where you can read how it all started. Once again, thank GnzYza. 1. First you need to get the new part from a Toyota dealer. The part you need is the SWITCH ASSY, partnumber 84450-02010 (at least for my Avensis -99, but it gives you something to start with at Toyota). 2. Disassembling. You'll need a cross/pozidrive screwdrive of medium size, that's all you need. (It might come in handy with some kind of light because it's rather dark behind the dashboard) First remove the dash casing below the steering wheel, there are 2 black screws, one to the left... ...and one to the right and also the golden screw under the cowling. Turn the steering wheel so you'll see the last 2 screws behing the wheel... to the left... ...and to the right. 3. Carefully pull the dash casing a bit outwards in the bottom and slide it down to remove it. There are 3 things stuck to this part; the wire for the front hood, an airtube and a wire with connector on it. These can remain in place, just put the casing on the floor. 4. Separate the top and bottom parts of the cowling, there are only small plastic lockers holding them together now, so a little bending with a screwdriver in the joint between them would do it. The joint is on both the left and the right side, you'll see it clearly if you look close. The top one could needs not to be removed, but the bottom one does. It might be easier if you loosen the locking handle for adjusting the height of the stearing wheel. 5. Now you should have access to everything under the cowling. Don't be alarmed, it is not so much you have to care about, it is just very much cabling in a very tight space. Locate the rear of the ignition barrel, where you'll find following parts attached to it: A and B are just connectors placed on the Switch Assy, remove them, but don't disconnect them. C is the connector on the Switch Assy. Disconnect it and fold it away. D is the actual Switch Assy. The arrow points to one of the two screws that holds it in place. (The easy one...) 6. Change the Switch Assy Remove the two screws that holds the Switch Assy to the rear of the barrel. One is easy to get at, but the other one is rather tricky to access. The screws might fall off so don't loose them! Once they are removed, pull the case of the Switch Assy away from the barrel. You can't pull it off all the way, so you'll have to turn it 45 degrees and try to get it out sideways. There are no loose parts there so you are rather free to remove it any way you can. Just keep in mind how you did it since you have to get the new part in, the same way. 7. Assembling. Place the screw that was hard to get at, in it's hole on the new Switch Assy before placing it in position. It is very hard to get it in place through all cables. Now, just tighten the screws for the Switch Assy, re-connect the cable (is only one way), fit the two connectors you removed in the beginning, and you're finshed with the hard part. Fit the bottom part of the cowling again, remember to have all plastic notches in their place. The parts will lock together nicely, fit the 2 screws behind the steering wheel again and also the bottom one. Place the dash casing in it's place; top first them push in the bottom. Screw it tight in place. 8. Finished. This is not a hard work and it took me around 25 minutes (including taking the photos). After that my car has started without a problem. The Switch Assy costed 900 SEK (> £60) but the garage told me they would charge me around 4500 SEK (>£300) to do the change. I don't know how they'd charge me so much for this easy job and now that I know how easy it was, I'd never accept a bill from them with that amount. I hope this workshop will help somebody in the future, if so, please post you comments on it. Good luck.
  2. Hi all, I've been trying to search the forum for an answer to my noise from the engine. But it's very hard to just search for 'noise' ;-) I have a Toyota Avensis 1999 2,0. Lately there's a noise from the right hand side of the engine, sounds a bit like a plate was loose and rattles irregular when the engine is idling. Also it sounds a bit like a small hammer working inside somewhere... This is mostly heard up to about 2000 rpm and sounds the same regardless of rpm. Then it decreases (or at least I can't anymore when driving). It decreases also when I raises the clutchpedal slowly to the position the engine starts to get contact with the clutch. At first I thought that it was a loose plate somewhere, but I can't see anything that could be loose. Now I'm more thinking about the waterpump... It's very hard to locate where it comes from but somewhere from the belts, but there are so many moving parts that for me, it could come from any of them. But it does not come from the belt it self, more from a broken bearing or if the pump have move slightly so it's not in correct position... But what do I know... Anyone who have had the same noise?
  3. Hi all, thanks for your comments and I'm very glad I could help you all with this. My thanks goes again to the person who informed me about how this was done as stated in my first post. Might say that my car still starts perfectly. ;-) And as Krugerrand pointed out above, please do NOT disconnect the connectors A and B. Just move them to the side as much as possible, you can do the work anyway. This saves you some problems later on...
  4. Hi Q.S. You are observant. Yes, I had the sticky break on this side. The shoes might have seen better days after that, I agree. But since the handbrake gives equal preassure on both sides, I don't think it's related to the shoes anymore. Thanks for you input. And the squeking sound from the earlier stuck shoe (or what ever it was) is now completely gone after my cleaning and readjusting. Ok, I might have adjusted the shoes so that the are too far apart from the drum, so they can't touch them, and also making the power less. Even so, they can only be adjusted 1 or 2 notches on the adjuster wheel and that can't make up for 50% loss of power. So I'm back at the Proportion Valve... Anyone has changed this or maybe even cleaned the old one with success?
  5. Hi all, I'm having problem with my rear brakes. I have a 1999 Avensis 2.0 with drums in rear. The problem is that when braking, the left side only gets 50% of the power compared to the right (Which is fully ok) When right side brakes lock, the power is finally transfered to the left side and they reach the same level as the right side did a long time ago. The brakes are adjusted as they should be, a manual spin of the wheel and it stops after 2-3 turns. The mechanics are nothing wrong with, all cleaned and greased. The handbrake (by wire) works equally good on both side. The lefthand side has been bled, so no air. Ok, the shoes, might be time for changing them but not urgent at all. Still 3 mm left and they are rather even worn down. And it's not the autoadjuster, it works, I think, but as said, the shoes are perfect matched to the drum and don't need this right now. Now I've been told a lot of different reasons and need some help with what it might be... - the brake cylinder on the leftside could be faulty (Very unlikely according to Toyota dealer, almost never happens) - the Proportion Valve could be faulty or need cleaning (Where is that located? Doesn't it only divid power between front/rear?) - flexible hose could have soften and expand instead of cylinder (Why does the brake eventually work, the power shouldn't be harder just because the right hand locks, the hose should expand more...) Any suggestions? Anyone else have had this problems? Thanks in advance.
  6. Ha,ha... Thank for the tips. I'll try that next time. Hope you had a nice friday night.
  7. And final part done too... ...I hope, havent had it for a drive yet after this last adjustment. As said before, I had only drum´s in rear. And not alike anything else I have seen in threads or other places. I didn't take it all apart but sprayed a lot of cleaners and blowed with air. Pulled the handbreak until my arm couldn't take it anymore, then sprayed more cleaners on everything that moved, pulled some more. Then I discovered an adjustment ring, hidden behind a piece of bent metal. The autoadjuster (I guess), so I turned the ring to pull the pads together and now the wheel is spinning without the pads even touching the drum. The handbreak needs 2 more snaps until it stops but that's ok by me. Btw, anyone have any nice comments about the left headlight and changing the bulb in it? I'd really like to have a little chat with the person who design that part. How are you supposed to change it without spilling blood?
  8. Ok, first part done... Breakpads in front have been changed and it was soooo easy, apart from one tiny little bit no-one has mentioned anywhere... The two bolts where insex size 7mm!! There were rubber protections around their heads so it was very hard to see what kind of tool you'd need. And since everyone has said it's an 12 och maybe 14 wrench I was trying that then I took a picture of it with my camera (since you can't getyour head inside to get a clear view) and found out that it was a square hole instead... ok ... to make it a short story... Has anyone tried to find an insex size 7mm? In the 8:th store I finally found one (1) set that had size 7... Then after that 2 hours shopping, it took maximum 40 minutes to change both sides. Now trying to fix rear too... I'll be back.
  9. Thanks for the tips Beagh. And I stand corrected. I have drums in rear, no discs. I helped a friend of mine changing tyres before xmas and he had an imported Avensis and that had discs in rear, as it is on the threads in this forum. So, I will have a look at this today. I've bought pads for my front breaks and I think I'll start with them. Seems as this would take longer time...
  10. I presumed that it was cranking over but not firing. Quoting his first line " seems to need to be cranked over a few times to get it started during everyday use." Ahh.. yes of course. Sorry.
  11. Thanks, of course I need to go to the root of the problem ;-) But first, I need to fix the symptoms, then the actual fault (if there is any). And I have found at least 4 different threads regarding changing rear brakes. But none of them tells me if I can adjust the brakes to loosen up a bit. They all refer to rotating the wheel and adjusting until it just gets in touch. Not what happens if they got too tight. And this problem has been now and then since I bought it for 5 years ago. I never had any problems with this, it's a bit tight during a few days and then it's ok for a month or three... It's just a wining sound when driving very slowly... Problem is that the 'Bilprovning' in Sweden, where you check your car every year, made remarks on this and I now have to make it go away within the next 3 weeks. So as a starter, I want to make it ok for now and when it's not 4 dm snow outside, I'll fix it properly. And yes, I have a disc and a drum in rear. So this means that only the handbrake is the problem? It usually goes away for a day when pulling the handbrake hard. Please someone, could you tell me if this adjusting is possible in both ways?
  12. Hi, I have an Avensis 2.0 from 1999. I'm having problems with one of my rear brakes (left side). It is too tight so; either the pads are always in contact with the disc or the handbrake is always in contact. So, after reading a lot of posts here and elsewhere on the net, I'm a bit confused. There's supposed to be an adjustment hole in the drum. So far it's ok. But some says the screw inside only turns one way; adjusting it closer hence compensation for worn down pads. One who did turn it too far, spent 5 hours trying to get it back one or two notches, others had to take it to the shop and pay £100 for them to fix it. ...other says that to remove the drum, you should turn the screw so the pads comes away from the drum. This means they can be adjusted in both directions. Must say that all read topics did NOT concern Avensis, but why different functions on different models.. it's all Toyotas? So, I need to get them just a tiny bit of the drum so it doesn't squek or get hot when driving. Is it possible to do this with this screw behind the hole in the drum, or not? Thanks for your help.
  13. I'm not too sure either.... From his story, I should say that it's the ignition switch. Everything works but you get nothing or occationally clikcs when you're supposed to here the starter instead.. Then on 3, 4 or even 20'th attempt it starts as nothing has happened.
  14. Here's a tutorial for changing the switch: Changing switchassy (http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=44971) Cheap and easy...
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