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About threepot

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  • Toyota Model
    Rav4, Corolla Tsport, Urban Cruiser, MR2 and Lexus RX400h
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    General Automotive

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  1. It adjusts the pilot values. It goes into a learn mode where the glow plug light flashes. You have to rev it up to 3000rpm over and over again until the light stops flashing. It adjusts the pre injector values to reduce knock, and make the cylinders balance each other power wise by adjusting the trim values.
  2. I ran all the pilot injector calibration routine in the Utility part of techstream after it had warmed up after a little drive, the corrections have come right down to -0.1 and +0.1 across all 4 cylinders. It runs better than ever, ticks over smoother, less noise, and it drives better than ever. Picks up quicker and has more power than ever before!
  3. I'm going to put a couple of thousand miles on the clock to make sure its good, then sell it on. I really can't be ubikd with all these diesel type problems.... egr, dpf, high pressure fuel pumps and precision injectors. Petrols just work, and even though the lexus is 2.2 tones, it does 0-60 in 7 seconds. Pitty the other car in any sort of impact 😄
  4. MAF readings, MAP reading and DPF pressure values all look realistic and normal to me. But I am not a Toyota expert! All the core sensors seem to be reading OK anyway and giving realistic values. MAF reading calculate about right for about 170bhp - but that is a rule of thumb estimation not truth. Pressure response on the DPF looks good for a nice clean empty soot bucket!
  5. What is your MAP value with just the ignition on, and the engine not running?
  6. Lets see it make full boost, then we can see what the DPF differential pressure sensor reading behaves like under proper load conditions. Please graph and post up = RPM + Boost pressure actual + MAF + DPF differential pressure But back to my car, just fitted my new injectors, and programmed them in. And I am back running again. Sounding smoother than ever before. To give you an idea my new Injector Correction Factors on brand new injectors are:- Cylinder 1 = +0.4 Cylinder 2 = -0.5 Cylinder 3 = -0.2 Cylinder 4 = -0.2 While my old one when running was on for -2 and other were +0.8, I will run it a bit and see if they change a bit with a couple of runs out. Also for the record the fault codes I got when it wouldn't start were:- P1604 Startability Malfunction P0093 Fuel system large leak detected And when I dipped the dipstick after alot of trying to start it, the oil level was way over the line as the sump was full of diesel as it leaks past the rings.
  7. Good job getting setup, please print screen me a datalog of:- RPM Boost DPF differential pressure. Show me a pull from idle though a couple of gears. Yes you can dump the flash, but you will need something like "alientech kess" or KTAG or something to my knowledge. Personally, I think the software update is not the answer. If the software was faulty, all these vehicles would have this problem continuously from new.
  8. There is a return surcharge/deposit on the old injectors, so we can keep them for upto 30 day before giving them back for the refund. To be honest, once this RAV4 properly resolved, I will be getting rid of it. I much prefer my old 2007 Lexus RX400h, which I bought the RAV4 to replace. I am going to find a nice clean low mileage RX400h to replace my old one instead of the RAV4. The lexus is fast, quiet, and comfy, and I don't mind getting 21 mpg out of it round locally, on a long journey I can get 33mpg of it it. It's done 165k miles, trouble free, which is all I am after really. The V6 petrol hyrbid is sexy and smooth, and the synergy transmission is ace. Going back to driving this 2011 RAV4 Auto, or my dads 2006 RAV4 Manual, they are a bit more "agricultural", I've become quite attached to driving the luxo barge. Toyota brand stuff is awesome, but from working in the diagnostic game for nearly 10 years now the most troublesome Toyota's are the 2004 onwards D4D's - they are better than most other brands of vehicle for reliability don't get me wrong, but the petrol engines never really have any issues. Plus I don't get slimy hands putting fuel in, nor do they stink when running them on my drive to defrost them.
  9. Power wise the car has always been consistent, but seeing as i've only owned the car for 8 months now, and I barely use it I have no idea if it has always been like this. Maybe the previous owners got rid of it because of this exact problem?!
  10. If you think its the 5th injector, just put a brake hose clamp over the feed pipe, then it's isolated and cant be the cause of excessive fuel injection.
  11. I have stumbled across the same problem sort of, and it would suggest your are trying to use the wrong spec injector with your engine management system. My original injectors have the coding string 33xx xxxx xxxx xxxx xxxx xxxx xxxx xx While this other injector which is identical is 52xx xxxx xxxx xxxx xxxx xxxx xxxx xx I cannot program any 52.... injector string into my vehicle, the code is rejected, but it will take any 33xx coding string. I found other strings on ebay and google photos, and it will not take any 52xx coding string. I have updated my ECU and it will not make any difference. So I would suggest if you originally had 32xx...... type injectors, you can only use 32xx injectors!
  12. That is good to know dead_dog, and I hope the smoke is now long long behind you 😂 Any time the DPF is replace all the adapted values and soot calculations need to be reset, otherwise the newly measured pressure sensor values will be confusing compared to the learnt values, especially as the old DPF will be heavily loaded with ash. I want to make it clear that not all D-CAT's or D4D's are the same, mine is the 12/2008 till 12/2012 150bhp version. There are 3 main types it would appear... 11/2005 till 12/2007 01/2007 till 12/2008 12/2008 till 12/2012 Each of these types is split into the different bhp version 134bhp, 150hp and 180bhp, which all have a different injector part number. Mine uses the Toyota Part number 23670-29125 which has now been superseded by 23670-29126. Although the injector body is marked as 23670-26060, I suspect the different bhp injectors have different nozzles and piezo heads. I have a spare injector which is marked as 23670-26060 which is the same as my valve body, and I fitted it last night as an experiment. It does start and run ok, but I cannot program the injector code in which is marked on the top of the injector! My original injectors have the coding string 33xx xxxx xxxx xxxx xxxx xxxx xxxx xx While this other injector which is identical is 52xx xxxx xxxx xxxx xxxx xxxx xxxx xx I cannot program any 52.... injector string into my vehicle, the code is rejected, but it will take any 33xx coding string. I found other strings on ebay and google photos, and it will not take any 52xx coding string. So I suspect the different bhp 2AD-FHV / 2AD-FTV have different rated injectors with coding strings which protect them from being interchanged. This is all speculation from experimentation. Hopefully the new injectors will arrive tomorrow.
  13. Mine are on top like the picture, very easy to remove - just remove the feed pipes and the over spill rail, remove clamps and they just pull out.
  14. It is 150bhp, 2.2 D-CAT SR Automatic. They are Piezo injectors, not solenoid type injectors. They 100% do not have any copper washers fitted, and no puller is required, they literally come out with a wiggle. As you suggest, I wonder if it is just certain injectors that do this. I also wonder if using lower grade fuels cause this, or even if the car had petrol put it in once upon a time which was not flushed and has caused higher burn temps - I could speculate forever!
  15. Keep in mind this all started as the intermittent smoke issue. It ran fine, just one day running into town it started smoking, and then it stopped, and didn't smoke again, then one day it smoked again for a few minutes and stopped again. Then all of a sudden it wouldn't start, where I found one injector burnt away. So I replaced that one, and all was well for months. Then early last week I noticed it smoked again for a couple of miles. Then friday it wouldn't start again, and I find another defective injector. I really don't have the answer, but its worth a look for the small effort and time of pulling the injectors and having a look. This is a 2AD-FHV, but a D-CAT version.