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About threepot

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  • Toyota Model
    Rav4, Corolla Tsport, Urban Cruiser, MR2 and Lexus RX400h
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    General Automotive

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  1. There is no option to select non of these! I didn't delude myself into buying a hybrid to save fuel or save the planet. I couldn't give a hoot about the MPG, how it compares to other peoples MPG's or how much CO2 i'm making.
  2. To put it in perspective, I would look at a difference of about 2.5mm between the highs and lows. For example +1 on one pot, and -1 on another pot is the max difference I would expect to see on any diesel running nicely. Thus a spread of 2 between the highs and lows. VAG group show a max of 6mm is within spec, but they run like a bag of spanners beyond 2 or 3mm. Not to say that something isn't running OK with 3 between the highs and lows, but if you read the Toyota spec, then you can say 1 cylinder could be +3 and another -3, which 6mm is a serious amount of unbalance that needs further investigation. Catch my drift?
  3. To take +/-3 as out of spec is not good practice. Fixed rules are not that simple! Correction values show cylinder balance or unbalance as I prefer to think of it. If you have plus 1.5 on one cylinder, then negative 1.5 on another cylinder this shows quite a large difference between those cylinders. If you listen to the injectors with a stethoscope you can hear the ping/ting of the nozzle, and you can listen to all four to see how they compare. If one sounds "duller" then the nozzle is not opening and closing crisply. Cylinder balance values are calculated from the crank sensor readings, the ECU can see how much acceleration is cause by each cylinder combustion. So when there is a +1 value, it is having to increase injector opening time to make that cylinder respond the same, likewise if its a -1 then its having to reduce the opening time to correct that cylinder. Ensure that the learn procedure is carried out correctly with a nice warm engine, you need to trigger it with the diagnostic tool, which makes the glow plug light flash, then you have to rev it to something like 3000rpm and back to tickover about 30 times till the light goes out. This also changes the correction values significantly. Also mine is running better than ever before, the engine is quieter, smoother, less tractor diesel knock noise, better acceleration and more power - I never would have thought 4 new injectors would have made such a difference to be honest!
  4. It adjusts the pilot values. It goes into a learn mode where the glow plug light flashes. You have to rev it up to 3000rpm over and over again until the light stops flashing. It adjusts the pre injector values to reduce knock, and make the cylinders balance each other power wise by adjusting the trim values.
  5. I ran all the pilot injector calibration routine in the Utility part of techstream after it had warmed up after a little drive, the corrections have come right down to -0.1 and +0.1 across all 4 cylinders. It runs better than ever, ticks over smoother, less noise, and it drives better than ever. Picks up quicker and has more power than ever before!
  6. I'm going to put a couple of thousand miles on the clock to make sure its good, then sell it on. I really can't be ubikd with all these diesel type problems.... egr, dpf, high pressure fuel pumps and precision injectors. Petrols just work, and even though the lexus is 2.2 tones, it does 0-60 in 7 seconds. Pitty the other car in any sort of impact 😄
  7. MAF readings, MAP reading and DPF pressure values all look realistic and normal to me. But I am not a Toyota expert! All the core sensors seem to be reading OK anyway and giving realistic values. MAF reading calculate about right for about 170bhp - but that is a rule of thumb estimation not truth. Pressure response on the DPF looks good for a nice clean empty soot bucket!
  8. What is your MAP value with just the ignition on, and the engine not running?
  9. Lets see it make full boost, then we can see what the DPF differential pressure sensor reading behaves like under proper load conditions. Please graph and post up = RPM + Boost pressure actual + MAF + DPF differential pressure But back to my car, just fitted my new injectors, and programmed them in. And I am back running again. Sounding smoother than ever before. To give you an idea my new Injector Correction Factors on brand new injectors are:- Cylinder 1 = +0.4 Cylinder 2 = -0.5 Cylinder 3 = -0.2 Cylinder 4 = -0.2 While my old one when running was on for -2 and other were +0.8, I will run it a bit and see if they change a bit with a couple of runs out. Also for the record the fault codes I got when it wouldn't start were:- P1604 Startability Malfunction P0093 Fuel system large leak detected And when I dipped the dipstick after alot of trying to start it, the oil level was way over the line as the sump was full of diesel as it leaks past the rings.
  10. Good job getting setup, please print screen me a datalog of:- RPM Boost DPF differential pressure. Show me a pull from idle though a couple of gears. Yes you can dump the flash, but you will need something like "alientech kess" or KTAG or something to my knowledge. Personally, I think the software update is not the answer. If the software was faulty, all these vehicles would have this problem continuously from new.
  11. There is a return surcharge/deposit on the old injectors, so we can keep them for upto 30 day before giving them back for the refund. To be honest, once this RAV4 properly resolved, I will be getting rid of it. I much prefer my old 2007 Lexus RX400h, which I bought the RAV4 to replace. I am going to find a nice clean low mileage RX400h to replace my old one instead of the RAV4. The lexus is fast, quiet, and comfy, and I don't mind getting 21 mpg out of it round locally, on a long journey I can get 33mpg of it it. It's done 165k miles, trouble free, which is all I am after really. The V6 petrol hyrbid is sexy and smooth, and the synergy transmission is ace. Going back to driving this 2011 RAV4 Auto, or my dads 2006 RAV4 Manual, they are a bit more "agricultural", I've become quite attached to driving the luxo barge. Toyota brand stuff is awesome, but from working in the diagnostic game for nearly 10 years now the most troublesome Toyota's are the 2004 onwards D4D's - they are better than most other brands of vehicle for reliability don't get me wrong, but the petrol engines never really have any issues. Plus I don't get slimy hands putting fuel in, nor do they stink when running them on my drive to defrost them.
  12. Power wise the car has always been consistent, but seeing as i've only owned the car for 8 months now, and I barely use it I have no idea if it has always been like this. Maybe the previous owners got rid of it because of this exact problem?!
  13. If you think its the 5th injector, just put a brake hose clamp over the feed pipe, then it's isolated and cant be the cause of excessive fuel injection.
  14. I have stumbled across the same problem sort of, and it would suggest your are trying to use the wrong spec injector with your engine management system. My original injectors have the coding string 33xx xxxx xxxx xxxx xxxx xxxx xxxx xx While this other injector which is identical is 52xx xxxx xxxx xxxx xxxx xxxx xxxx xx I cannot program any 52.... injector string into my vehicle, the code is rejected, but it will take any 33xx coding string. I found other strings on ebay and google photos, and it will not take any 52xx coding string. I have updated my ECU and it will not make any difference. So I would suggest if you originally had 32xx...... type injectors, you can only use 32xx injectors!
  15. That is good to know dead_dog, and I hope the smoke is now long long behind you 😂 Any time the DPF is replace all the adapted values and soot calculations need to be reset, otherwise the newly measured pressure sensor values will be confusing compared to the learnt values, especially as the old DPF will be heavily loaded with ash. I want to make it clear that not all D-CAT's or D4D's are the same, mine is the 12/2008 till 12/2012 150bhp version. There are 3 main types it would appear... 11/2005 till 12/2007 01/2007 till 12/2008 12/2008 till 12/2012 Each of these types is split into the different bhp version 134bhp, 150hp and 180bhp, which all have a different injector part number. Mine uses the Toyota Part number 23670-29125 which has now been superseded by 23670-29126. Although the injector body is marked as 23670-26060, I suspect the different bhp injectors have different nozzles and piezo heads. I have a spare injector which is marked as 23670-26060 which is the same as my valve body, and I fitted it last night as an experiment. It does start and run ok, but I cannot program the injector code in which is marked on the top of the injector! My original injectors have the coding string 33xx xxxx xxxx xxxx xxxx xxxx xxxx xx While this other injector which is identical is 52xx xxxx xxxx xxxx xxxx xxxx xxxx xx I cannot program any 52.... injector string into my vehicle, the code is rejected, but it will take any 33xx coding string. I found other strings on ebay and google photos, and it will not take any 52xx coding string. So I suspect the different bhp 2AD-FHV / 2AD-FTV have different rated injectors with coding strings which protect them from being interchanged. This is all speculation from experimentation. Hopefully the new injectors will arrive tomorrow.