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Everything posted by Panzerbjorn

  1. Hi mate, Do you have any pics? What year/model corolla are they from? cheers Panzer
  2. Just thought I'd add some pics I took today due to the glorious sunshine. A few hours cleaning has really shinned things up Front: Rear: Mmmm Check out that shine: Side View, showing off my Toyota Alloys: (I have Corolla GXi side skirsts going on on tuesday) I mounted my tweeters in the front pillars: (I have custom door pods awaiting a spray, I will post again when they are finnished) White Dials \0/: Gotta love Meguiars car products for cleaning! Panzer
  3. Looking good mate, you have done more or less exactly the same as me except mines black. I've got a front grill like yours waiting to go on Cold air intake Debadged Square plate 15" Toyota 7 spoke rims Tinted rear clusters to match the back of the car De-Arialed with a bee-sting put on White dials Got a twin exit back box, will post pics Rear Spoiler ICE: Orion P6.2 front comps with custom door pods (will post pics when I take them) Genesis 4 Channel amp Custom-made twin Eminence LTD 12" subs About to do: My side skirts are getting sprayed as we speak and will be fitted next week (so Ill take all the pics when they are on. You can get a front lip for that bumper but it’s hard to come by. De-tangoing side repeaters and indicators. Future plans: Upgrade the breaks to rear discs and bigger fronts Semi leather and Alcatara re-trim of the seats and door cards Xenon headlight kit 4E-FTE engine conversion ;) You gotta love the E-10 keep us posted mate. Panzer
  4. LoL Red, you are the font of all information :D thanks again for the reply! If thats the case I won't bother all these ideas seem like too much hassle and expense. Cheers Panzer
  5. Lo all, I've got the 1.3 1993 3door E10 and the steering is a bit 'light', the back end steps out quite easily and the (steering) wheel goes very loose after a certian degree of turn making cornering at speed difficult. I have already lowered the car (40mm springs and shocks) so please don't suggest that. I've read that the early CTS had a similar problem so maybe Toyota just can't do PAS but correct me if I'm wrong. A mate of mine has said that changing the PAS is quite easy but I was wondering what others on these boards have done. Do you just put up with it or is there alternatives. Are there other versions of the Corolla that have better/uprated PAS? I have heard that my model was one of the first PAS cars and I would have thought that like all new technology updates come out quite fast. Cheers for any info or advice. Panzer
  6. Ok thanks again for the info Red. I'll be giving up on the ABS idea then. I'll just have to try and find a superstrut model to steal the brakes from. Cheers Panzer
  7. Thanks for the info Red, that has helped a lot! I had always wondered about the difference between normal and SuperStrut. So If I found a Superstrut model and took the calipers from that how easy would it be to put my current front calipers on the rear axel and replace the drums, what did you have to do exactly? You mentioned that the fronts lock up before the rears, whats the story with ABS, surely that would compensate for it? I had my speedo dials out the other day (fitting white dials) and I noticed that there is an ABS warning light its just not connected. I'm assuming therefor that there is a model with ABS but again I have no idea about how it would be fitted. Thanks again Red. *Edit* Just thought of something else, if I got the front brakes from a SuperStrut would they fit under my 15" alloys? Cheers Panzer
  8. Lo all, I currently have a 1.3 (4E FE) 93-97 type 3 Door 'Rolla with 15" wheels. I'm looking to improve the braking performance and I was woundering if there was another Corolla (or any Toyota) I could source the parts off, rather than going after-market. Does the 1.8 have the same brakes as the 1.3? What about the model with all of the body kit and colour coded electric mirrors etc (think it was one of the last models GTi maybe?) I'd also like to know if I could source the ABS kit and how hard it would be to install (I.E the process) and Finally I was woundering about fitting rear calipers (If I put bigger ones on the front could I use my old front ones on the rears?) Cheers for any advice Panzer
  9. I've just thought of something else I would like to know about this, didnt think a new thread was worth it. If i did the engine mod what steering/break upgrades could I do to this model because they are pretty bad as it is now.... can you upgrade the power steeering? Cheers Panzer
  10. I have a green cotton (cone) air filter for the 1.3 4E-FE engine. £80 new you can have it for £50 inc. delivery if you want. Panzer
  11. Ok cheers mate. I shall look into this a bit further and keep everyone posted. Panzer
  12. Thanks for the info lads :D Nathan, if I was to change the pistons I wouldn't need to change the Head Gasket? Would it be wise to uprate to HG anyway (not thicker just uprated). Cheers again! Panzer
  13. Lo all, I was talking to some people 'in the know' and they seemed to think it would be possible to attach the turbo from a 1.3 Starlet GT Turbo to the 1.3 engine in my Corolla. Now they are both 1.3 16v and the engine code seems to be the same other than the 'T' which I assume stands for Turbo ;) Does anyone know if it has been/can be done. does the manifold come streight off of the Starlet and onto the 'rolla engine? what about other bits that would need to be swapped? Cheers all! Panzer
  14. Sounds like you havnt bedded them in propperly. You have to go 250 miles on new pads driving like a grandad. What happens is as you break the heat from the pad and the disc causes carbon to melt onto the pad in little blobs, then the next time you break these carbon bits scratch the disc and make that horrible noise. Now with bedded in breaks you have to break really hard to get the heat needed to melt the carbon but with new pads the heat capacity is much lower and so moderate breaking can cause what you are describing. What you need to do is take them off, sand down the carbon bumps and they should be fine... then bed them in propperly! Panzer
  15. Well the best thing to use is bolts strangly enough. For best results drill a hole in the bottom of your boot and bold the sub box to the floor. But if you dont like the sound of that use non-slip matting or velcro. Panzer
  16. Genisis for amps and subs, Orion for components and 6*9s Alpine or Pioneer for Head units unless you can afford nakachami or what ever they are called Panzer
  17. Ok mate, sorry thought i had explained it better than i did, heres a decent explanation for an acoustic shelf. Basically your average shelf is about 5mm thick, and when you cut out the holes for the 6*9s you make it even weaker than it already is. Once again its all down to physics. The speaker is shifting air by vibrating a cone. The cone is attached to the metal frame which is screwed into your really thin shelf. As the cone vibrates it vibrates the frame which in turn vibrates the shelf. The shelf is thin and weak and so alot of the kenetic energy from the speaker is moving the shelf rather than the air. This results in crap sound quality and you end up wasting alot of the speaker's potential. The other problem with just cutting out holes in your current shelf is that the speakers will be on display which screams "break in to me". The final problem is once you've cut it, you will have to get a new one if you ever want to sell it etc etc. An acoustic shelf solves all of these problems. Whether you buy one or make one they will be doing the same thing. The first thing is this Its thick. If you make one yourself you will want two layers of 180mm or 200mm MDF/plywood. so thats effectivly 4cm thick. This minimises the shelf vibrating because obviously 400mm is alot stronger than 5mm even with holes cut in it. You can then cover it in epoxy and/or glass fibre sheet for added strength. Once you have your two sheets cut the holes for the 6*9s where ever you want them but make sure they line up on both sheets. There is a choice as to what you do with your two sheets. You can attach them both together with epoxy and glass fiber sheet/wood glue, or you can bolt them together. Ill explain the pros and cons of both. If you epoxy them together then its a perminant thing, the shelf will very solid but you will have to screw the 6*9s into the under side of the shelf. This is good if you plan to up grade your 6*9s in the future without a lot of hassle. The other option is to bolt the two sheets together. This way you can sandwich the speaker in between the wood. While the actual shelf wont be as strong it will hold the speaker in much tighter. However, this option makes it hard to change speakers if you ever wanted to upgrade them. The best option would be to sandwich the speakers between the wood and then epoxy the lot but this means you would never be able to change the speakers. Once you have decided how your going to attach the speakers its time to finnish the shelf. So that it doesnt look like a flat piece of wood in the back get the original shelf and map out how it looks as far as topography goes. Then get a thin bit of MDF/plywood and make the same topography as the original. Attach it to the top layer of the shelf and obviously have the holes for the 6*9s cut out so the top layer doesnt block the sound. Then get hold of some acoustic material. They do it in all sorts of colours so just find the colour that best matches your interior. Use a spray adhesive to cover the wood and then lay on the material in one sheet being carful to not get any lumps/bubles etc. Dont cut the holes for the speakers because this then keeps them from being on display. That keeps the car secure and gives you much better sound. Of course it also helps when you come to sell the car because if the new buyer doesnt want 6*9s in the back you can put the original in. Thats basically it, alot of work but well worth it or you can buy a custom made on from www.autoacoustics.com but like i say they are more expensive and they will make the ones where you have to screw the speaker into the underside of the shelf. It shouldnt make to much difference about a sallon shelf and a hatch back. If you cant get it out then how were you plannning on installing the 6*9s in the first place hehe? As far as the HU goes it will send signal to the pre-outs and the normal out puts so u wont have to worry about that. getting a 2+1 amp is a good idea as long as you can get a good quality one. Which make were you thinking of? I think that might be the best option because you dont really need to amp your 6*9s, its just extra expense which you dont need. Id go for the Orion 6.2, a nice 2+1 amp and some cheap 6*9s in a good shelf and then get a really good sub at a later date. Keep me posted mate Panzer
  18. At the mo you cant get clear indicators for our model corolla, but im currently working on a set for myself with some clear perspex. If all goes well i may be able to make a few more pairs if you guys are interested. Panzer
  19. Hi mate, sorry its taken me so long to reply, ive had a hectic few days. Like i said in the post above, if your going to get 6*9s then put them in a proper acoustic parcel shelf. Im pretty sure i posted why above. As for not having 6*9s and a sub heres why. Basically you have your sub in the boot (trunk) and your 6*9s sitting in the parcel shelf on top of the boot space. Speakers work by moving air around and with both sub and 6*9s you will have three cones trying to push the same air about. The sub is a much larger cone and because its playing deeper notes, its going to be pushing more air and harder. That means that the 6*9s wont actually be pushing any air but they will be getting pushed themselves by the sub. This can lead to not only poor sound quality from the 6*9s but over time they will die a nasty painful death and you wouldnt wish that on anyone now would you hehe. so yeah dont mix 6*9s and a sub and if you go the 6*9 route buy or make an acoustic parcel shelf. Panzer
  20. Ok mate i hear what your saying ;) If your not interested in extra stuff like MP3 play back but you still want good sound quality and you dont want alpine then i think the lower range pioneer is the way to go. If you insist on getting some 6*9s then put them in a decent parcel shelf. Dont get 6*9s and a sub, choose one or the other (looks like your going for 6*9s) When i say i decent shelf i mean a proper acoustic shelf. You can buy them for $245 or you can make one yourself with two layers of MDF and some acoustic material. Theres nothing worse for sound quality than 6*9s in the standard parcel shelf. Also they will be on display for all the world to say which screams 'steal me'. Re-thinking the plan slightly i would get the Pioneer DEH-P2600R head unit for $250, a set of Pioneer TS-A6920 6*9s (four way) for $200 and spend the rest of MDF and acoustic material for the parcel shelf. that still gives you change left over and you get the same front components. Hope that helps some Panzer
  21. Its quite ironic that ive been slating them but i actually have a sony HU at the mo Anyway the simple fact is that the sound quality of Sonys isnt that great. You have to spend alot more for a top end Sony that will sound the same as the cheapest, bottom of the range Alpine. Sony have chosen a target audience (mostly boyracers) who are more interested in flashy displays and volume (read distortion) rather than good sound quality. I bought one of the top of the range Sony headunits (mx-800) when i first started out with my car, it has full dotmatrix animations and loads of stuff like it, now i have all of that turned off. Compared to my mates Alpine that cost him £50 less, mine sounds utter rubish. It really is that simple, Sony are'nt very good. Get an Alpine or if you dont like Alpine get a decent Pioneer like the one i posted earlier. Panzer
  22. OK ive just done some sums and it seems that your $1000 canada is about £400 english which is less than i first thought. Working with this budget i would do this: I promise you wont regret it if you do! Head unit (Deck): Pioneer DEH-P77MP - £230 or $568 Front components: Orion P6.2 £150 or $370.73 Total so far: $938 Simple as that for your current budget. You will have to run the speakers through the Deck for the time being but dont worry the internal amp is very and i mean very good! and those speakers will take a beating even with an external amp! It may not sound like the big ICE replacement you originally had planned but i promise you it will sound so much better! Your splitting your budget between two items rather than eight or nine which means you are getting better quality for your money. Also by not buying 6*9s and the like you are seriously improving over all sound quality. Like i said before, fade the rear and middle speakers out almost completely and just use your new fronts! The next step when you have some more money should be a sub, id recommed waiting untill you can afford a 5 channel amp as well. That way you can amp the sub, your front components and if you still want your rears to give out some sound, u can amp them as well. Of course you really should also think about getting some dynamat extreme in the doors especially with those front components. Once you get a sub, id extreme the boot and the rear quaters as well. Of course all of this costs money, but if you build it up over time you will appreciate it more with each step. It will also end up being a much better system that what u planned in the first place. I know what im suggesting isnt what the guy in your local ICE shop, or companies like JBL etc want you to believe but it really is the truth from experience and from knowing people in the more professional end of the buisness. If you have any more questions just ask :D im happy to answer them! Panzer
  23. Hi mate, I realise its been over a week and so u may have already bought some stuff (if u have let us know :) ) just thought id add my 2p's worth If i were you i would stop thinking about the speakers for a minute and start thinking about sound deadning your car, even if its just the doors and the rear quaters. Depending on how much you want to spend go for either brown-bread, dynamat or dynamat extreme (brown bread being the cheapest but least effective and extreme being the most expensive but best). If you do this you will see a dramatic increase in performance from the current speakers. especially that all important mid-range that your lacking at the moment. You shouldnt have spent your whole budget on the sound deadning even if you did the whole car with extreme and like i said i would just do the doors and rear quaters. What i would then suggest is getting a really good set of front components (thats mid-range, cross over and tweater) because they really are better than just the midrange. I would also recommend amping these speakers. get a really good quality two channel amp and just have it run these speakers. Finnally get a good head unit (deck) as Hou said, Alpine generally are the best but if you dont like their styling then its not the end of the world. Stay away from Sony! If your not going to get Alpine then i can recommend Pioneer, Kenwood is a bit of a grey area, they used to be the dogs dangles but now dont seem to be so hot. To be totaly honest theres no point worrying about the other 4 speakers, id stay as far away from 6*9s as possible unless you are going to install them with a proper acoustic shelf. As the driver be selfish when it comes to ICE and cater for you and only you, after all your going to be in the car more than anyone and you really want the sound stage right up infront of you. If i were u i would fade the rear speakers out totaly but if u have passengers then allow a little bit of sound to come from the rear. Panzer
  24. Hi mate! Your are right in thinking that your subs quiet because its only getting the power from the HU cable. you really want a nice thick power cable running streight from the battery. You will need to earth the amp from a bolt attached through the chassis, if there are platic washers or anything where the seat is mounted then its not going to earth, but its probably the best place to do it off the top of my head. the yellow wire (if red is +ve and black is -ve) is the cable which turns the amp of when you turn the key to off, if its not connected then your amp will always be on and will suck all the power from your batter, this usually connects to one of the head unit wires. So id go for: red from battery to amp. Black from amp to bolt holding one of the seats in place yellow to the 'switch-off' wire from your head unit (soz its late and i cant remember the correct name for the wire lol) Hope that helps Good luck Panzer
  25. Bibbs, you are correct for his budget he could only get one sub without an amp for what im recommending. However, if he already has an amp then i would put money on one good sub sounding 10 times better that the three he was thinking about originally. So he would only need one anyway. Panzer
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