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jas147

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Everything posted by jas147

  1. [COLOR=blue]SOLD - 1ST JULY 2005 1995(N) Toyota Celica GT-Four (ST205) With FSH (documents and receipts). UK model - unmodified. Two owners from new. Rosso red with black cloth interior, black carpets and mats. PAS, ABS, AC. Elec windows/mirrors/sunroof. Radio/Cassette. Remote central locking. Toyota 5000 Cat 1 alarm/immobiliser. 5-speed manual. Refurbished 3-spoke alloys. 4 nearly new tyres. Recent radiator, clutch, front pads and rear discs & pads. Plus a boot load of spares and workshop manuals. MOT to August. Tax to Feb 06. Located in Berkshire/North Hants. A bargin at £4995
  2. Try the GT4 Owners Club at: http://www.gt4oc.com/ They have a parts for sale section and one appears every now & then.
  3. Many thanks to the pratt in the AW11 who pulled out into the traffic in Bracknell on the morning of Thursday 13th May 2004 - and then proceeded to drive at 20 mph in a 40 zone, thus causing about 20 cars to make emergency stops. Idiots like you give MR2 drivers a bad name. From the not impressed driver of the GT-Four (and SW20 owner). <_<
  4. Why don't you lot cut the :censor: , stop boasting and grow up. I bet your girlfriends think 3 inches :hokus-pokus: is 12 inches. :D Seriously folks: Standard UK MR2 GT2.0 16v will just make 60 in 7.4 seconds, with a smelling clutch, burning rubber, dry road, expensive timing equipment and driving by a pro. The rest of us will be lucky to get there in 8 dead. Can't comment for the jap imports or the turbo - maybe about 4 inches.
  5. Had same problem with a MR2 SW20 - change the plug leads. The leads break down with heat and age. Seems ok when engine is cold, but as soon as it heats up it starts to misfire. Low rpm or during acceleration are worse - okay when you take your foot off the throttle.
  6. Oil and filter every 4,500 miles. Main service every 9,000 miles. If you want the engine to last, do the oil and filter every 3,000 miles. Replace brake/clutch/power steering fluid every 24 months. Check coolant strength every 24 months - replace no later than five years. Check exhaust mountings every six months. Check front pads every six months. Oh - the biggie - CAM belt at 63,000 or five years (engine out).
  7. If its' an SW20 there are six drain points for the coolant system: 1 - Radiator bottom right (left looking from front of car). 2 - Radiator top left (mainly for bleeding air). 3 - Heater (under bonnet - centre & under windscreen - air bleed). 4 & 5 - One plug on each transfer pipe (under car & just forward of engine). 6 - Engine drain plug - above off-side drive shaft. Use 1, 4, 5 & 6 for draining system (but not when its hot :o ). Use 2 & 3 for bleeding system. PM me if you need any more info on the SW20. :hokus-pokus: PS: mark 1 or mark 2 - sounds like a Capri :censor: .
  8. Quote: "Change timing belt at 63,000 miles intervals or 5 years" - whichever is the sooner. My last belt change (24 November 2000) cost: £166.40 (+VAT) for labour £29.74 (+VAT) for the Timing belt £27.24 (+VAT) for the Steering Pump belt £32.42 (+VAT) for the Fan belt This was for a GT-Four (basically the same engine) The timing belt change is a 'Fixed Price' item. Some garages will state that it is expensive as the engine has to come out - it does not. I had a MR2 (SW20) belt changed about 7 years ago and the garage said that it can be done without removing the engine - one of the most helpful Toyota dealers in Berkshire and they had their franchise taken.
  9. Black wheels - not space savers. It'll handle like a pig. Hope the spacers turn up soon. :crutchy:
  10. jas147

    Car Manuals

    Have you got deep pockets with loads of cash - if so take a trip to your local Mr T parts department and ask for the workshop manuals. For the 3S-GE engine you will need part number RM051E (covers Aug 1986 on) or later version. I don't have numbers for the 91 Celica body manual. Have the chassis number handy. Cost - possible £100 each. :ffs: :censor:
  11. There is a known fault with failure of the locking solenoid that is fitted inside the door - but Mr T will not admit to it. In the early to mid 90s a lot of MR2s & Celicas on the forecourts had the solenoids removed and sold to customers (as new items). The garages only fitted new solenoids when the cars on the forecourt were sold. I have lost count of the number of MR2s and Celicas that suffered this fault when I was checking them out for purchase. If the fuse check/change does not work try the following: Stand next to the pax door when operating the remote and listen for the solenoid working. If you can't here it, remove the door trim and try again. If still not working - locate solenoid, disconnect cables and run a couple of leads to your battery. Connect leads to solenoid (make sure no other cables are connected to it). Does it work - if not - replace it. Try a Toyota breakers - see other threads for details. (PM me if you need more detailed instructions) Note: If Mr T in the garage replaces it the starting price will be about £100 labour + parts + VAT. Not pretty for a part worth no more than a tenner. B)
  12. Further to my MR2 figures: I'm getting 27mpg (ultra urban) and 34 mpg (motorway at 70 mph - whoaaa-girl) from my 95 GT-Four (standard UK spec). Hopefully the MR2 turbo should do better than that (they won't have the extra weight to cart around). Assuming the Tercel is two wheel drive, the fuel economy should be about 30. Oh, did I mention - keep it on the boost and watch that fuel tank empty. Let us known how things work out with the tercel (any piccys). :P
  13. Was getting about 37 on my 1990 SW20(UK) GT. Now getting about 34 on a 2000 SW20(UK) GT-TBar. However - more horses seems to equal slower accel - cant understand :(
  14. Factory standard for 2000 (Thunderbird 2 rear spolier) SW20(UK) are: Front - 195-55-ZR15 at 30psi Rear - 225-50-ZR15 at 35 psi :hokus-pokus:
  15. jas147

    Ecu Light

    Intercooler fault normally indicates low intercooler coolant level. You need to check (and top up) the coolant level at least once a week. Note: The ECU will need re-setting as it will be limiting the power output (drops about 30-40 horses). Disconnect battery for at least 30 seconds - or see previous threads on similar topic. Advice provided by local my Toyota dealer (at no cost).
  16. The paint on my 2000 SW20 is still in mint (except where the wife backed it into a wall). Sunburst red - no metallic, meaning no SOFT laquer - which is the bit that scratches.
  17. Simple physics - as the coolant heats up it expands. Once all the gaps in the engine cooling system are full the extra volume of coolant (due to heating) fills the expansion bottle (hence its name). When you switch the engine off and everything cools down the coolant contracts and draws from the expansion bottle. Thus - only fill expansion bottle with a cold engine. Only worry about the level at the red cap if you cannot see any coolant. As stated above, the coolant will expand to fill any gap when it heats up. If you overfill by mistake the excess will poor from the tube at the top of the expansion bottle.
  18. Mr T's book says 7 litres for a 3S-GE, but the book does not refer specifically to the MR2. I normally buy 10 litres, which leaves enough to keep topping up the GT-Four intercooler. Mr T - if you are reading this there is a design fault with the intercooler and I am fed-up having to reset the ECU. Fill from the "RADIATOR CAP" until the level is just below the cap. The expansion bottle should only be topped up after. Remember - there is a lot of pipe work between the engine and the radiator, with plenty of places to trap air, so you will need to run the engine, stop, let it cool and then re-check the level. Normally about 3 times. When doing this set the heater to hot. DO NOT TOP UP WHILE THE ENGINE IS STILL WARM. You may overfill. Also, keep a one litre bottle in the car for the first week or so.
  19. The cooling system expansion bottle is on the right hand side of the car in the engine bay, hidden against the rear wing. The easy way to tell the water level is to hold a torch just behind the engine and shine it onto the expansion bottle. The bottle has FULL and EMPTY marks. If it needs more coolant it should be topped up by the filler point, also on the right side of the engine bay. The filler point is the plastic clip-on top - not the radiator cap type filler point (only used when carrying out coolant replacement - best done every two years) which is located just next to it. Note: In ten years I have never had to add coolant. As stated - use only RED Toyota coolant.
  20. Any changes you make will void the warranty if Mr T spots it. Why not ask Mr T what changes they can make that will not void the warranty. On the other hand - how often does anyone need to use a Toyota warranty. Try www.fensport.co.uk Or <_< : Buy a GT-Four :P or a MR2 Turbo :P .
  21. jas147

    Tire Size

    When you say oil all over the plug, was it on the ceramic part (external) or the electrodes? Oil on the ceramic part indicates an external oil leak - more than likely from the cam cover. Use a mirror and torch to locate where the oil is coming from. Oil on the electrodes indicates an internal problem. Worn piston liner/rings or inlet valve guide. Look at the site that cel_94 has provided a link to - 5th picture down is oil on the electrodes. If you still have problems - repost.
  22. jas147

    Annoying Thump

    Please check your email in-box. JS
  23. jas147

    Tire Size

    Spark plug gasket??????? Someone :arrgg-matey: is pulling your leg. Spark plugs come supplied with a metal sealing ring. If it breaks - buy a new spark plug. No more than 5 minutes to replace. Please re-post if further info required.
  24. jas147

    Annoying Thump

    Removal & Refitting of rear diff is quite easy. No special tools required. HOWEVER - The diff is supported at 5 points. The rear bush should be easy to change as it is a bracket assembly. The forward four bushes may need a press to remove/fit. Also, there are two bushes on the (upper) cross member, which the forward four bolts attach to. Did the garage specify which bush(es) were loose. To remove/refit diff: Jack car and place on stands Mark drive shafts (x2) & undo nuts/bolts - support shafts Drop cross member (4 bolts) Mark propshaft & undo nuts bolts - support shaft Support diff with a jack Remove rear bracket bolts (x2) Remove forward bolts (x4) Lower diff. Raise diff Install forward bolts (x4 to 76 ft.lbf) Install rear bolts (x2 to 108ft.lbf) Connet propshaft (align marks) & bolts (x4 to 54 ft.lbf) Install cross member & bolts (x4 to 53 ft.lbf) Connect drive shafts (align marks) & bolts (x8 to 41 ft.lbf) Check diff oil level (plug on rear face - left of rear bracket) Remove stands and lower off jacks. Please post if the bushes on the upper cross member are the culprit. :hokus-pokus:
  25. The pressures quoted are straight from the Celica Owner's handbook.
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