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richardAE111

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Everything posted by richardAE111

  1. Very nice Tom, bonnet looks great! I look forward to seeing the results with the Megasquirt and the stacks. Best of luck.
  2. Very very nice! The car looks brand new; lovely colour also.
  3. Cool, I sent him the message above asking about the block and he replied: I see from his reply to you he doesn't know about the conrods either what about the pistons? So what exactly, was the £10,000 spent on? Maybe the conrods are forged 24-carat gold... :P
  4. Do, if you get a response post it up. He mentions a belt conversion kit has been done. I'm sure you're aware that because of the longer 7A block the stock 4A-G belt won't fit on a 7A-G setup so maybe that's what he means by the belt conversion kit? I see there are no bids on it anyway. As Ecsy mentioned about needing new shells, it is unkown what damage may have been caused and this probably has deterred potential buyers.
  5. That engine maybe using the block from an economy 9.5:1 7A-FE found in a number of various Toyotas from 1992 onwards. Although it is a nice and cheap upgrade to increase torque output on the 4A-G's, it is well renowned as having a much weaker crank than the 4A-G's; quite on the contrary to what he says... "THE BLOCK IS FROM A 1997 TOYOTA GIVING A MUCH STRONGER AND THICKER CRANK THAN A STANDARD ENGINE" The 7A needs work in order to support anything over 7,000 rpm. Also, because of the very long stroke, the rod/stroke ratio is nowhere near ideal. Added to that is the fact that the 7A crank cannot accept a 4A flywheel, so unless you get a custom flywheel manufactured, you're stuck with the heavy stock 7A flywheel. I'm assuming the rods and pistons have been upgraded as there is no way the stock 7A rods/pistons could survive boost in any way, shape or form. I wouldn't pay that kind of money for it. In my opinion you'd be taking on more problems than it's worth. I just noticed you have a 7A-GE in your AE102 so you obviously know what you're looking at. It doesn't look like a 7A block to you? If it is in fact the HKS Stroker Kit then it would be a good buy, wouldn't mind the HKS crank myself!
  6. LOL :D Yep, they're definitely tinted alright! :P
  7. T1-R's get my choice every time. Excellent grip and are great value, on the downside they're quite a soft compound tyre so won't last as long as some other performance tyres. But I don't care about that!
  8. Agree with Knowlson, a 4A-GE 20v AE86 would be perfect for the track but if it's going into an E11 daily driver the 4A-GZE is the superior engine. More potential, more torque! An oversize pulley kit that increases boost will net you an extra 25-30bhp for less than €200.
  9. LOL, and who might have one of them for sale? :D All jokes aside though, the AE101 GT-Z is an excellent handling powerful car and if got for the right price is an absolute bargain so you should consider it if you really want to experience the SS. EDIT: Sorry Ecsy, I see you have a GT-Apex for sale and not a GT-Z!
  10. I like your thinking, I see you're determined anyway! The only way I can see it being worthwhile is if you get the parts cheap from a scrapped SuperStrut AE101/AE111. The only other way is from Toyota, which I'll say no more on for obvious reasons. Otherwise if you want a harsher ride/excellent handling, just get a set of coilovers like those Koni adjustables you mentioned. TBH I wouldn't really call it an experience, it just offers slightly better handling/steering, that's all. The traling rocker arm's (AKA the SuperStrut arm) main purpose is to hold the camber of wheel stable during cornering for increased grip and precise steering. Alternatively, just go for a test drive in a SS ST202/205 Celica or a SS AE101/AE111 Levin/Trueno and see for yourself. Basically, what i'm trying to say is, it's not worth the hassle!
  11. Nah, afraid not, Ecsy is right. It's a big job. This is what you need: Sub Frame Cross Member Control arms Hubs Brake System (Calipers, Discs and Lines) Shocks Rack and Pinion Back Mount Stabiliser Bar Linkages
  12. Afraid not. The only 4A-GZE Levin/Trueno that had a LSD as standard was the 91-95 AE101 GT-Z. They're wrong, they need to do some research before they say things like that.
  13. I can see you're determined to have your car pass first time, but you are going to unnecessary lengths to do so. What I would recommend is to put the car through the NCT without doing anything. If you fail, correct the problems they tell you to. What you have listed below (1-5) goes without saying. 1. Do not change the oil if you don't need to. Make sure there is enough oil in the engine, that's all. Out with the dipstick and check the level. The water they are referring to is the water in the cooling system. Check your water expansion bottle to make sure there is enough water in the cooling sytem. Check your manual if you're not sure where it is. 2. The correct tyre pressure should be located in your manual or it can be found on the inside of your car's front right hand door. 3. Make sure they work, do each of the jets spray water? Are your wipers in good condition? Are they cleaning the water from the windscreen effectively? If so, you're good to go. Make sure you have enough water in your windscreen reservoir also. 4. Yes it is possible, 9/10 times it's the bulb, so if you've any bulbs not working, get to Halfords or Auto Care and replace them. You will fail if 1 bulb isn't working. They always check the bulbs. 5. 1.6mm of tread depth is the minimum tread depth for your tyres in Ireland. Make sure your wheel nuts are secure and that the wheels aren't damaged/buckled. Best of luck and as I said, don't let them waste any more of your time. Just put the car through and see what they say.
  14. Now that you mention it, getting the new seats welded is probably the quickest and easiest method to do it, on the downside you'll probably have to pay someone to do it for you. I'm guessing it's these seats.
  15. Afraid not, the seat rails will be different. You will need a drill, lots of patience and a couple of nuts and bolts, or alternatively source some seat rails for your Corolla.
  16. I'm just going to have to repeat myself. How is it your fault? Its your job to make sure you insure the right car. If you had a Starlet Glanza V, would you insure it as a naturally aspirated Starlet? No, only unless you want your insurance to mean nothing if you're in an accident. Also, by stating the word 'fault' you're admitting you know it's not right. The insurance company doesn't know? They know exactly what your car is. You either tell them it is a Corolla Levin or a Sprinter Trueno, depending on the model, you have a JDM Corolla Levin from what I see, so thats exactly what you tell them. It's water off a duck's back to me. I'm just trying to tell you what will happen when/if an insurance assessor comes out to view the accident and/or the cars involved.
  17. Yeah its fairly high, varying constantly based on different operating condtions/engine load etc. Its more like 1800rpm when its started on a cold morning but goes down to about 1200rpm after a few minutes and then when fully warmed up about 900-1000rpm.
  18. Its the ISCV, Idle Speed Control Valve or Idle Air Control Valve. It should only idle at 2000rpm when the engine hasn't reached a suitable operating temperature.
  19. I'm not sure what you have in England but any motor parts store like Autocare here will be able to supply you with a fuel and oil filter. Not sure off hand what other cars they share parts with but they should have a listing for a ST 20v. Spark plugs are NGK BK6REP11 or Iridium equivalent IK20. When you're replacing the air filter you might as well go for an aftermarket filter, Apexi and HKS manufacture panel filters for the ST. Any performance store can get you one, or you could get it here directly from Greenline. http://www.greenline.jp/catalogue/bccatpar...category=intake 10W40 and ATF gearbox oil would suit.
  20. Superstrut is a great suspension if maintenance is kept up, the ball joints tend to wear faster than standard Mac Pherson strut setups so keep an eye on wear and tear, expensive to repair unfortunately. EBC and Mintex sell brake pads for your car, MR2 Turbo for the front, Carina E GTi for the rear, same pads. No LSD. Yes its possible. Yes they are TOM's wheels.
  21. Ignorance is no excuse. Your insurance is void if you are in an accident. Did you tell them its a Japanese Import? They know exactly what the car is, its your job to make sure you insure the right car.
  22. Kaaz and Cusco manufacture LSD's for your box, on the downside they'll be difficult to source. Your gearbox is the C52 so if you can find a scrapped GT-Z you'll be able to get yourself a cheap LSD. In 1993 the gearboxes changed to the C56 but i'm not sure on their compatibility maybe someone else could confirm this. Here is a pretty good explanation of the SuperStrut suspension. http://gtfour.supras.org.nz/superstrut.htm
  23. Afraid not, only the GT-Z (4A-GZE) had an LSD as standard. The BZ-R was only available from April 1997 onwards and has Superstrut suspension, 6-speed box and LSD as standard. The BZ-G from that period on also had the C160 box, but didn't have an LSD, SS was an option. Before April 1997, there were two models of BZ-G, an SS BZ-G and a standard BZ-G. The SS BZ-G had SS and an LSD, the standard one had neither. Both 5-speed boxes (C56). Engines are all the same, no difference there. Contrary to popular belief the BZ-R is not faster.
  24. Limited Slip Differential. A helical LSD is a torque-sensitive mechanical LSD. Create problems? Far from it, it increases traction and handling and prevents torque steer. Say for instance you accelerate hard in the rain, and one wheel on the driven axle (in this case its FF) experiences less traction than the other wheel. With a 'standard' open differential it would allow the wheel with less traction to spin or increase its RPM relative to the other wheel. In this case the wheel with less traction would never gain traction and would continue to spin. With the helical LSD, it prevents the wheel experiencing loss of traction from spinning. Torque is distributed to both wheels in proportion to the traction available at each wheel. You can imagine how helpful this is and you can apply this logic to cornering also, so better cornering and better traction. A big advantage about a helical LSD is that it requires very little maintenance. You can treat it the same as an open differential, change the oil regularly and it will last longer than the car.
  25. No, I was talking about power at the flywheel. Not WHP. The WHP figures of a standard BT 20v are around the 118-128 mark. Power loss due to the transmission, tyres etc. varies between 10-15% on a FWD car, but the C160 box has been known to experience more transmission loss than the C56 box, up to 5% more.
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