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curriedb

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About curriedb

  • Rank
    Advanced Club Member

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  • Gender*
    Male
  • Toyota Model
    MR2 Mk3
  1. It's 2016 Well the MR2 has finally gone. Rust was the enemy. I've bought a Mazda MX-5 - thanks to Toyota not replacing the Roadster with a softtop! But the car lives on. It was bought by 'Cabbydave' who will be rebuilding it...
  2. Re: exhaust condensation issue. Assume you've checked the basics i.e. that the thermostat is not stuck in the open position...leading to the engine block taking a lot longer to warm up than would be normal? The temp of the coolant is a VERY important factor in modern cards with complex emission control systems...
  3. Bought my MR2 new in 2003. It passed its seventh MOT, yesterday, and so I've now enjoyed 10 years' happy motoring in it! Great drive out in the Dales with the top down today. Still grinning after some enjoyable miles 'over the hills'... The latest MOT revealed there's a little rust underneath. And the front brakes were slightly unbalanced (must remember to put that sack of spuds in the front next time!)...otherwise it was fine! Needed to sort out the handbrake - as usual - and make sure the MIL light was switched off too. So glad I bought a CAN OBD11 U480 scanner seven-years-ago
  4. If there's no loss of coolant and no sign of the oil being contaminated by water then I'd suspect it's "old man syndrome" i.e.build up of water in the exhaust system due to lots of short runs without the cat ever getting chance to heat up enough and burn it off... However, if it's persisting then have a compression check done on engine to satisfy yourself that the cylinder head isn't slightly warped or there's a tiny split in the head gasket ... 02 sensor heating circuit failure is a VERY common problem. The heater element is there to get your 02 sensor up to working temperature ASP (600 F).
  5. I've owned an Mr2 Roadster since 2003...and do my own service and repairs when possible. You say the calipers have been stripped down twice. Do you mean the caliper units has been refurbished or simply unbolted from the carrier - given a quick clean - then rebolted onto the carrier frame after replacing the discs? There's a BIG difference...as sometimes a garage will say they've 'stripped down' an item when all they mean is they've given it a quick clean with a wire brush! From personal experience I can confirm that: 1) The caliper pistons do eventually seize slightly and combined with stickin
  6. Thanks for keeping us up-to-date on your project Louie...it's been great seeing your car come to life these past few years...you've made an old MR2 Mk111 owner very happy
  7. Given that the MR2 MK111 has a habit of throwing a MIL warning light - sometimes for no apparent reason - it's worth noting that the MOT test now (2012) includes an instruction for testers to fail a vehicle if the MIL light is illuminated! One of the best purchases I ever made was a code reader/MIL reset device bought from Ebay for around £25 - several-years-ago . I'd say it's an ESSENTIAL piece of kit for anyone with an MR2 MK3 as a Toyota garage will charge you double the cost of buying such a unit just to tell you what code their reader has thrown up!! Then there's the handbrake. I must be
  8. Hi folks, Noticed - just before my car's MOT - that the headlamp plastic on my 2003 model was starting to cloud over due to the effects of UV. Car passed OK...but I came across this info whilst looking for a cure (just in case!) ...might help someone out in the future and - if it fails - you can use up the tube on your teeth...so nothing lost! Other toothpastes are available Dave C
  9. Thanks for the info Les - much appreciated :)
  10. Hi folks, Long time no post...hope all's well with your MR2 Roadsters! Just given the car its Spring service - and fixed another sticking rear brake - and noticed a small tear at the base of the hood. Think I can access it to stick a patch on...but wondered if anyone had tried this product? http://www.raymears.com/Bushcraft_Product/655-Tear-Aid-Original-Repair-Patch-Kit/ I understand the roof is vinyl on the outside with a rubber core and cloth backing. If this is correct then I assume I should buy the type A kit - as I will be fixing the patch on the cloth side of the roofing material, rather
  11. Being diplomatic I'd say you are both looking good for your age
  12. Hi there...and welcome... It's not a job to be tackled by the faint-hearted. Take a look here (It's another MR2 website) for more info: http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=27181
  13. Thanks Les...here's hoping for a long hot Summer!! :) TTFN Dave
  14. I recently had brake pad drag after replacing my front discs and pads. I thought it might be a sticking caliper...but it turned out to be a sticking slide pin. A quick lube of the pins worked for a few days...but then the problem came back. So, here's how I cured it: To service the slide pins you need to remove both the pins and the *rubber dust boots (*by carefully teasing them out from their seating on the brake pad carrier). Now you can access the pin holders on the brake carrier - the likely problem area - clearing out any sticky gunge in the holes (a drill bit the same size as the pin TUR
  15. I believe there is NO specified service interval for replacement of chain...
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