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    MR2 Mk3

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  1. It's 2016 Well the MR2 has finally gone. Rust was the enemy. I've bought a Mazda MX-5 - thanks to Toyota not replacing the Roadster with a softtop! But the car lives on. It was bought by 'Cabbydave' who will be rebuilding it...
  2. Re: exhaust condensation issue. Assume you've checked the basics i.e. that the thermostat is not stuck in the open position...leading to the engine block taking a lot longer to warm up than would be normal? The temp of the coolant is a VERY important factor in modern cards with complex emission control systems...
  3. Bought my MR2 new in 2003. It passed its seventh MOT, yesterday, and so I've now enjoyed 10 years' happy motoring in it! Great drive out in the Dales with the top down today. Still grinning after some enjoyable miles 'over the hills'... The latest MOT revealed there's a little rust underneath. And the front brakes were slightly unbalanced (must remember to put that sack of spuds in the front next time!)...otherwise it was fine! Needed to sort out the handbrake - as usual - and make sure the MIL light was switched off too. So glad I bought a CAN OBD11 U480 scanner seven-years-ago
  4. If there's no loss of coolant and no sign of the oil being contaminated by water then I'd suspect it's "old man syndrome" i.e.build up of water in the exhaust system due to lots of short runs without the cat ever getting chance to heat up enough and burn it off... However, if it's persisting then have a compression check done on engine to satisfy yourself that the cylinder head isn't slightly warped or there's a tiny split in the head gasket ... 02 sensor heating circuit failure is a VERY common problem. The heater element is there to get your 02 sensor up to working temperature ASP (600 F). If you have a PRE CAT sensor heater failure your car is likely to run a LITTLE richer - in what's known as 'open loop' - using preset ECU fuel calibrations - but will run as normal once the 02 sensor gets up to temperature (without the aid of it's heater element) and switches to 'closed loop' mode...when it then uses 02 sensor data to fine-tune fuel input. Heating element failure is such a common problem that many MR2 enthusiasts place a resistor in their 02 circuitry - to 'fool' the car into switching straight into closed loop mode (saves paying out £60 for a new sensor!). Having read this very lengthy thread I can see that you have a lot of concerns. But I believe as others have said they are likely to be unfounded... A timing chain rattle; MIL lights coming on are what you'd expect from a car of the age and mileage you've acquired... My CAN OBD11 (U480) scanner was one of the first things I purchased when I bought my MR2 Roadster (new) in 2003. I had my first 02 sensor heater failure just after the car was out of warranty! Now It's always in my glovebox - as I'm likely to see the MIL light come on at ANYTIME. Currently it comes on about once a fortnight. A quick check of fault codes has - so far in last seven years - told me it's no big deal! However, you certainly shouldn't ignore a MIL light! ALWAYS check the code it throws up - to make sure it's nothing major!
  5. I've owned an Mr2 Roadster since 2003...and do my own service and repairs when possible. You say the calipers have been stripped down twice. Do you mean the caliper units has been refurbished or simply unbolted from the carrier - given a quick clean - then rebolted onto the carrier frame after replacing the discs? There's a BIG difference...as sometimes a garage will say they've 'stripped down' an item when all they mean is they've given it a quick clean with a wire brush! From personal experience I can confirm that: 1) The caliper pistons do eventually seize slightly and combined with sticking slide pins it's enough to cause overheating discs. If the garage has actually REFURBISHED the calipers and cleaned the slide pins and replaced any corroded pins/damaged boots then that only really leaves a sticking handbrake cable... Dave C
  6. Thanks for keeping us up-to-date on your project Louie...it's been great seeing your car come to life these past few years...you've made an old MR2 Mk111 owner very happy
  7. Given that the MR2 MK111 has a habit of throwing a MIL warning light - sometimes for no apparent reason - it's worth noting that the MOT test now (2012) includes an instruction for testers to fail a vehicle if the MIL light is illuminated! One of the best purchases I ever made was a code reader/MIL reset device bought from Ebay for around £25 - several-years-ago . I'd say it's an ESSENTIAL piece of kit for anyone with an MR2 MK3 as a Toyota garage will charge you double the cost of buying such a unit just to tell you what code their reader has thrown up!! Then there's the handbrake. I must be getting lazy... 'cause I didn't bother to adjust the handbrake before the MOT...and it was failed on excess travel! The garage wanted to fit new cables but all I had to do was follow Bob's guide (posted on the website several years ago) and it was fine... Although I felt the handbrake worked OK (I've got used to the travel issue since buying it in 2003) I feel the garage wanted to see it fully on at around 4-5 clicks instead of the 7-8 clicks that's the norm for the MK111. Car also failed on headlight alignment...not sure how that happened? Anyway, back on the road again and looking forward to another year of fun from my MR2 - happy motoring, to Les and all MR2 Mk111enthusiasts! DC
  8. Hi folks, Noticed - just before my car's MOT - that the headlamp plastic on my 2003 model was starting to cloud over due to the effects of UV. Car passed OK...but I came across this info whilst looking for a cure (just in case!) ...might help someone out in the future and - if it fails - you can use up the tube on your teeth...so nothing lost! Other toothpastes are available Dave C
  9. Thanks for the info Les - much appreciated :)
  10. Hi folks, Long time no post...hope all's well with your MR2 Roadsters! Just given the car its Spring service - and fixed another sticking rear brake - and noticed a small tear at the base of the hood. Think I can access it to stick a patch on...but wondered if anyone had tried this product? http://www.raymears.com/Bushcraft_Product/655-Tear-Aid-Original-Repair-Patch-Kit/ I understand the roof is vinyl on the outside with a rubber core and cloth backing. If this is correct then I assume I should buy the type A kit - as I will be fixing the patch on the cloth side of the roofing material, rather than the vinyl side... Any feedback will be much appreciated. Must say these last few days of good weather have put a smile back on my face after all the snow we had earlier on in the Dales. Happy motoring one and all :) DC
  11. Being diplomatic I'd say you are both looking good for your age
  12. Hi there...and welcome... It's not a job to be tackled by the faint-hearted. Take a look here (It's another MR2 website) for more info: http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=27181
  13. Thanks Les...here's hoping for a long hot Summer!! :) TTFN Dave
  14. I recently had brake pad drag after replacing my front discs and pads. I thought it might be a sticking caliper...but it turned out to be a sticking slide pin. A quick lube of the pins worked for a few days...but then the problem came back. So, here's how I cured it: To service the slide pins you need to remove both the pins and the *rubber dust boots (*by carefully teasing them out from their seating on the brake pad carrier). Now you can access the pin holders on the brake carrier - the likely problem area - clearing out any sticky gunge in the holes (a drill bit the same size as the pin TURNED BY HAND will help loosen any hard stuff) then clean and polish the pin holes using brake cleaner and a lint-free cloth... You also need to clean off the pins with brake cleaner and a clean cloth. Check them for wear and damage (but note they are manufactured with a few flats on them!) If the dust boots are damaged - replace. Cost around £4 each (ouch!). I was advised by a Toyota mechanic to use Red Rubber Grease for re-assembling the pins. This makes sense as it will not react with the rubber boot - CAUSING IT TO SWELL - a problem with most petroleum based greases. Re-assembly The pin is a very tight fit as it passes through the rubber boot at the carrier end...so don't install the rubber boot before greasing the pin holder. Grease each pin and rotate it inside its holder to ensure a THIN layer of grease is evenly deposited. Don't overdo it - with the grease - or you will create suction within the holder which can inhibit the free movement of the pin. Give each dust cover a thin smear of red rubber grease inside the very top and around the outside lip of the bottom of the seal. Install the dust cap; smear a VERY thin covering of grease on the pin and slide it into its holder. Most of this grease will end up in the bellows end. If you use too much it will simply create a vacuum in the bellows! Hope this proves useful to a fellow enthusiast! Happy motoring Dave p.s. I know LOTS of fitters use copper lube/LM petroleum on such parts. When you see what a tight fit the pin is through the rubber dust cover you'll understand why the rubber swelling could cause the pin to stick at a later date! I think the Toyota mechanic is spot on with his advice about Red Rubber grease (and yes I did ask about the lithium soap recommended by Toyota - but even he said it's as rare as rocking horse sh**)!
  15. I believe there is NO specified service interval for replacement of chain...
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