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    ipsum 2.0
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joelsoo's Achievements


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  1. I have a TVSS iiib and manage to programme the fob, i had put some instructions here https://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/82717-picnic-keyfob/?do=findComment&comment=1606164
  2. Resurrecting this abit as i own an old toyota carina E with the toyota TVSS iiiB alarm and 1 of the fobs had programming issues for a year or so. I just left it until i found an old installation manual of the TVSS iiiB (see attached) after which after reading the 2 highlighted points on the attached, manage get the 2nd fob reprogrammed. Instructions i did were as follow and hope if someone needs to give it a go it may help you: 1) take out the battery of the fob u want to programme. make sure its a good battery with good voltage. 2) get in the car and shut the door, put in the battery of the fob, press either button twice close to the foot well, to see if it re-programmes the fob. if it responds, u got a winner, if does not respond, take out the battery again and go to step 3. 3) press any button for a few times after removing the battery a 2nd time in point 2 above, (this supposedly will cause the fob's rolling code to be lost) 4) put in the battery back in immediately after step 3 and shut the casing 5) press either buttons again 2 times with the fob close to the footwell which hopefully is close proximity with your immobliser box. you should then trigger the immobliser's rolling code to accept this new fob. if this does not work, reset it again by pressing the buttons whilst the battery is out and then repeat from step 3 on again, try to get the fob as close to the immobliser box as you can whilst u press either buttons 2 times on step 5. good luck.
  3. okay, update on this, the car seem to not have the cut off issue anymore. someone suggested a bad earth or battery connection, so what i did was i removed the terminals, then retighten them again 2 weekends ago, and until now it seem to be ok. (touch wood!) i will continue to monitor and hopefully the issue is really a dodgy battery terminal which was previously fitted loose. thanks everyone for their help and suggestions. should there be a need to revisit i'd look back on the previous posts and hope able to diagnose further if there's a need to then.
  4. i change my engine oil at the roadside, there's a speed hump the same height as the pavement so rear 2 wheels that sits on pavement and speed humb, 1 front wheel sit on the pavement and 4th wheel i made a block ramp the same height as the kerb, reversed up so the car is level and i just creep underneath with the extra 6 inches raised and can get alot done without ramps or jacks. i have ramps too (bought from car boot sale) but they are too steep and scrape the bumpers of both cars if i drive straight on to go on them and i can't be asked to make transition ramps to use them, so they now sit in garage collecting dust.
  5. i am not sure, the car was given to me by a friend who owned it since new, i presume its standard immobliser from toyota. it could have been fitted by toyota post manufacture to specs the customer place the order (my friend) in factory. and with it being 22 years old i would have thought any battery would have been dead by now, or it could just be a power capacitor holding the charge to sound the tamper beep when battery is removed... nontheless i will do some diagnostics this weekend. weather may be against me but if its not raining i'd have a tinker with your suggested points above and take it from there. its due to rain heavily all weekend in london so may end up doing next week if its pouring down. i only have a drive or work on the side of the road, no luxury of covered garage. thanks Joel
  6. hi Mooly, thanks for your advice above, i will digest in detail and diagnose accordingly. Just thought to also point out that its not just the headlights that is powered off. Everything is off when this strange phenomenon occurs. Clock resets, radio resets, its as though someone took out the battery. Weird thing is also when this happen, upon testing the headlights, the "light not turned off" warning beep will work, but there will be no power to headlights, suggesting that somewhere somewhat some sort of power is still being delivered to the car from the battery, otherwise the light warning beeping won't occur. Also when i took out the battery terminals, then the immobliser start beeping (not alarm, just probably a battery tamper warning from the immobliser). If there's any further suggestions where and what else to check after reviewing my above mentioned symptoms it would be much appreciated. i am keeping a note of other symptoms if this occurance appear again. i only can check it this weekend as i work mon to fri and by the time i get home every evening its already pitch black and its quite difficult to work in the dark with only a headtorch. much appreciate your time and assistance so far, keep them coming if you think of anything else to check 👍
  7. quick note, i did measured the battery voltage last week when this first happened. the car battery is about 12.1v. it starts with this voltage, but seems low i thought it should be normally be 12.6v and above if its healthy? could the issue be as simple as a dying battery? we got this car from a friend about4 years ago. and i am also not sure how long that friend had last replaced the battery. again i'd monitor the terminals and have a look. we are due to replace this car by april 2021 because of the ULEZ charge in london, i can't drive it beyond the south circular and we live at the border of south sircular in woolwich, so got no choice to change it by then. the car is a P reg and only have 80k on the clock and even have working A/C.
  8. okay it happened again today, its parked on the drive, and wife wanna use it to run an errand and its a total dead, not even lights as suggested to test. HOWEVER, there is this very very faint high frequency whine when key is inserted into the crank. She phoned me whilst i was at work and i told her to try open the bonnet and shut it, (in case its something to do with the tamper trigger of the bonnet) and after some back and fourth putting the key back in out, acc, on, off key off etc. then it jumped back to life again, clock, radio, everything reset. i'd try to check the negative terminal of the battery connection when i get home, because about 6 months ago, i took the battery out in attempt to borrow the battery to use it in another car, but only realised the battery terminals are opposite and i can't use it so i had to jump start the other car instead. i'd check in case it could be as simple as a loose earth connection. or bad grounding etc. also notice this when the weather is colder this seem to be a more frequent occurent...
  9. Could it also be an ECU going Kaput soon?! The symptom is when I crank, there is a high frequency whine, and nothing turns on when I crank the key to start. When key is in ignition, and when turned to Acc mode before cranking, there will be the high frequency whine very faintly. It's just weird because it's not a persistent issue, only happens occasionally so very difficult to diagnose. Sighs
  10. OK I'd check the terminals and see. I thought to check if the symptoms of the immobliser going dead affects the whole system to the point that it resets. If this is the case I'd monitor it to see if anything else shorts. I did experience the alarm going off on its own once or twice, hence thought its got something to do with alarm/ immobliser
  11. hi, although this is an old thread, i am appreciating this now because i am facing a similar problem with the electrics/immobliser. can someone confirm when the immobliser kicks in, it totally cuts off ll power supply, even the clock resets to 1.00hrs and when key is inserted, its totally dead, no lights no nothing at all? i am just trying to find out if its really the immobliser and not some other electrical fault. i do hear an ultrasonic whine when the key is inserted and when ignition do not respond to anything when key is inserted. anyfurther advice would be helpful thanks Joel
  12. I am currently experiencing high revs after a throttle clean on my good old L reg corolla 1.3. I recall taking out the throttle position sensor (TPS) due to not wanting to get carb spray on it. Can anyone help with how to tune back the Revs to normal on the TPS adjustment? should have left it alone.... I understand I need a multimeter and probe around for idle voltage but not sure how to perform this. I got a few 'silly' questions i would appreciate some assistance on: 1) must the car be started to probe? or does key just need to turn to on position? 2) must I remove cable harness when probing on the TPS sensor, haynes manual illustrates this but I suspect its for illustration only and the harness is meant to be plugged in... 3) which of the 3 cables should I be probing? and what voltage should I be adjusting to? was told its 0.7 to 0.8v idle voltage? thanks in advanced!! cheers Joel
  13. i just had a look again, and it seems that nothing is wrong, because its a mechanical part/system for the adjustable height of the seat, there is bound to have movement/play. i had taken apart the side plastic mouldings and returning to the MOT station tomorrow morning, and show the tester the mechanisms and hopefully he will pass it after seeing its slight free play on the mechanism naturally and nothing broken/damaged. btw, the fixing points and movement points does not seem to have any evidence of wear and tear.. if he's anal about it, i will prob get abit of steel plate and bolt screws and screw the lift and drop adjustable system dead in place so there's no movement once and for all, however that means i cannot adjust the height of the seat pad but it has always been on its highest anyway as i much prefer to drive in a high seating position.. wish me luck... thanks Joel
  14. hi, my avensis verso failed MOT because the test guy said the driver seat was loose. i took it apart and found out that its the slack on the height adjustable system that has slight free play. (knob u twist so the chair gets jacked up and down) just wondering if the MOT guy is just trying to pull a fast one and the slack is normal? or is my seat really due for a replacement and i would need to sort it out one from the breakers? if i got no choice but to replace, i would like to know if the avensis verso and the avensis shares the same seat?! if so, it opens up the gates of my search for a replacement better otherwise trying to find the same color, same year (with airbag) without costing an arm and leg in exchange for it is prooving difficult. any help appreciated. thanks Joel
  15. i thought so too... maybe just invest small amount of money and get the maps upgraded... the GPS is quite good just that you can't see the map of the overall route and following its instructions blindly may be a little risky
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